...got bass?

[Bumbo]

Hi Bumbo,

I get that! The subs in my photos were just an experiment I needed to do because I had the time, the passion, and the cash to do whatever I wanted to do at the time! Since then I've down sized some... same amount of H.P., but less 'cone surface area' as far as speaker diameter and component numbers.

So now I only use 2 fifteen (Alpine R' series) and two Alpine 1200W true RMS Mono-blocks to drive them; which leaves more available cargo space. It's still a lot I know but it's just a hobby,

rig, cheers!

O don't get me wrong... I love this stuff I just need the cargo space for off-road action, a fridge, and a bunch of other gadgetry.

My home setup now consists of rack mounted pro audio gear and a pretty substantial sub / lfe stuff for movies and music. Just consider it a bigger trunk.

I have a digital PEQ and crossover that serves a subwoofer array and tactile transducers (really high end bass shakers) in the couches.

I had to get an electrician to wire up 3 dedicated 20A power drops since we have about 5000 watts of amplification for the system.

Still cool tho, your thread brings me back to my car audio days... my cars always looked like they were going to call apart at the seams due to bass... so ya, I got bass.

 

[rigtec]

... so ya, I got bass.

...I like that lol! 'Best to you',

rig, Cheers!

 

[riceandpho]

...I like that lol! 'Best to you',

rig, Cheers!

any more update on your current system?

since you use an external dsp, should your amps run full range with no crossover settings, or amp crossover turned all the way up just to use the boost knob. your external dsp has crossover settings right?

im at another upgrade right now.

 

[rigtec]

any more update on your current system?

since you use an external dsp, should your amps run full range with no crossover settings, or amp crossover turned all the way up just to use the boost knob. your external dsp has crossover settings right?

im at another upgrade right now.

Hey riceandpho,

"Nice box"! I was using the 'mini-DSP in-a-box' x-over but I stopped using it because I was getting frustrated as it has a (PEQ) parametric EQ which that alone has sooo much flexibility of about 18 bands of user adjustable center frequencies (I only use about 5 center freq. for the sub; lowest set to 30 HZ, highest is 80 HZ; to say nothing of it's adjustable 'dB's per octave slope' flexability!

Now I'm just using the adjustable 'High-Pass' filter built into the amps, and it's low-pass filter on top of the bass to blend with the stock door speakers! What size are the two holes in your new box for; ten's, 12's... It looks very nice and well built! And did you add any amps to drive those subs? 'Best',

rig

 

[Bumbo]

Just curious but what’s the problem with the PEQ? It’s the right tool for running the frequency response, but not quite the right tool for crossover work, but it sounds like that device also has a build in x-over?

Setup of a PEQ needs to be done with a measurement mic and a sweep of the frequency response wave from the listening position… the goal of the PEQ is to have a flat as possible response curve without over correcting peaks and nulls. Over correcting a null for example would clip / overdrive the amplifier.

There is a little science, and some art that goes into tuning a PEQ.

 

[riceandpho]

Hey riceandpho,

"Nice box"! I was using the 'mini-DSP in-a-box' x-over but I stopped using it because I was getting frustrated as it has a (PEQ) parametric EQ which that alone has sooo much flexibility of about 18 bands of user adjustable center frequencies (I only use about 5 center freq. for the sub; lowest set to 30 HZ, highest is 80 HZ; to say nothing of it's adjustable 'frequency per octave slope' range!

Now I'm just using the adjustable 'High-Pass' filter built into the amps, and it's low-pass filter on top of the bass to blend with the stock door speakers! What size are the two holes in your new box for; ten's, 12's... It looks very nice and well built! And did you add any amps to drive those subs? 'Best',

rig

12s.
waiting for the sale my dealer has, so itll fit 12w6v3.
box is from avpriority

amp is still the same, keeping my rockford fosgate t1000-1bdcp
will be driving everything down to a 1 ohm load. wouldnt mind trading the amp to a 1500 version, will be a tighter fit in the storage compartment.

 

[rigtec]

Just curious but what’s the problem with the PEQ? It’s the right tool for running the frequency response, but not quite the right tool for crossover work, but it sounds like that device also has a build in x-over?

Setup of a PEQ needs to be done with a measurement mic and a sweep of the frequency response wave from the listening position… the goal of the PEQ is to have a flat as possible response curve without over correcting peaks and nulls. Over correcting a null for example would clip / overdrive the amplifier.

There is a little science, and some art that goes into tuning a PEQ.

Hi Bumbo,

Nothing at all wrong with the PEQ. ...as a matter of fact, it's one of the very best room flattening audio tools available today; and used by sound engineers as THEE standard! My frustration was just from working with a wide range of music types, and not being able to find a happy medium in a reasonable amount of time spent!

So I decided to eliminate the more time consuming audio tool, and use the simple filters built-in to the amps; and it sounds terrific... no more headaches!

rig, cheers

 

[Bumbo]

[MENTION=5149]riceandpho[/MENTION]

Nice box... One tool I wish I had many years ago was a CNC router table, it really takes making a speaker box to another level.

 

[headpaneer]

[MENTION=5149]riceandpho[/MENTION]

Nice box... One tool I wish I had many years ago was a CNC router table, it really takes making a speaker box to another level.

This portable CNC router looks really appealing for DIY projects, if it proves to be reliable and I ever have the $2400 to spare.

https://shapertools.com/

 

[riceandpho]

[MENTION=5149]riceandpho[/MENTION]

Nice box... One tool I wish I had many years ago was a CNC router table, it really takes making a speaker box to another level.

I wish I had the box more custom. Wanted more width , but having a shop do it. I got quoted almost 500 to 600 . I was like God damn. I was looking at the ground shaker boxes, seem to work, but avpriority has this box build to spec. Very good product. I still haven't peel the tape off the plexi center. Looking to buy 2 woofers and 2 grilles this coming week.

 

[rigtec]

I almost forgot to mention...

Just because your box/drivers and EQ will reproduce 'Infrasonic wavefronts' doesn't mean that it will sound good; I learned that while testing/tuning the subs... below 30 hz the ultra-low audio reproduction was almost 'Unintelligible' and most uncomfortable to hear.

It has to do with the size of the truck body, it's acoustics, the size of the longer low frequency wavefront, and the effect of room modes involved! Just for those of you who believe that the lower, the better; that's not always true in some environments! So I had to move my 18hz back up to 30hz for the sake of clarity!

'Best to you all', rig

 

[rigtec]

"That's actually super amazing! I bet the sound quality is great. Can you use is as an external sound system for any musical or electric instrument?...

these examples can show you how to create and play music from similar devices. That's why I am so interested in it. Pls reply if id does play music from external devices."

Hi soap94,

Using car audio subs for musical instrument reproduction (especially low frequency instrumentation) is 'NEVER a good idea'! Musical instrument reproduction equipment is designed for the purpose of throwing/projecting it's low frequency wave-front a substantial distance from a stage; I just happen to be a bass player who's worked a lot of large venues. Here's a few photos of my stage rig:

So that Pro-sound low frequency wave-front reproduction equipment was designed with a high to very high efficiency ratio... it's not how much power the equipment is capable of, but rather, how much sound the speaker system is able to reproduce and at a given dB level into the audience!

Now, car audio applications are designed with the expectation that a certain amount of 'Cabin-gain; usually 12 to 15 dB (decibels) of 'apparent volume', will factor into the design equation with low frequency wave-front reproduction! And if you are familiar with the spec sheet standards in both applications, you know that there could be as much as a 20 dB difference between these two applications!

I think my car audio sub sensitivity (no cabin gain factored in; just full field measurements) is 90 dBs 1w/1m. But my stage rig can create around 110 dB at 1w/1m... so there's no fair comparison going on here; but then my stage rig cannot create or reproduce that level of sound output at 25-30 hz! So there is a substantial difference built in to the design objective from the engineering POV!

Hope this helps, 'Best to you',

rig, cheers!

 

[rigtec]

Hi folks,

There are quite a few ppl on our forum doing audio work in their 4Runners... thought this thread may be helpful! 'Best',

rig

 

[Toskabg]

Serious business

 

[rigtec]

Serious business

Definitely serious business Toskabg, without question! 'Best to you',

rig

 

[rigtec]

I just changed the title of "Subs, subs, subs" back to ...got bass?

I wanted to make it easier for 'Car Audio & Pro-sound Audio' enthusiasts to google and find this "Low frequency wave-front reproduction theory" tool to help dispel Some/ALL of the many myths that are plaguing the industry on the internet these days!

Unfortunately "subs, subs, subs", doesn't bring it up, but "...got bass?", does! 'Best to you'

rig, cheers!

 

[710Runner]

Where is the best place that people are connecting their ground cable in the rear trunk area of the 5th gen ?

 

[97BlackAckCL]

Where is the best place that people are connecting their ground cable in the rear trunk area of the 5th gen ?

I mounted my amp under the passenger seat, and used the ground in the side pillar between the front and rear seats.

There's several ground points in the rear trunk area also, you have to remove the panels to get to them

 

[710Runner]

Thanks for the reply I actually already have an amp for the door speakers under my seat and I’m already grounded exactly there I have a very high powered system and I would love to keep my ground cable under three feet my amps are drilled to side of box I think that would be a stretch to that pillar the only thing I see with bolts in the trunk are the cargo hooks and also the slanted carpeted bar piece near the back seats and under there it’s just brackets the slanted bar bolts into what looks like sheet metal Would that be a decent chassis location with a ring terminal slid through the bolt of course sanded bare
Currently swapping out a large box in my 95 4runner to my 5th gen

 

[97BlackAckCL]

Like I said, you have to remove the trim panels to get to the grounding bolt locations, I would use this grounding point that the stock nav grounds to on the wheel well arch (white wire)