Greasing the pig..what intervals?

Grug556

Grug556

New member
Guys on the driveshaft joints there's a grease fitting on both ends (maybe more?) anyhow whats the frequency of greasing it? What type of grease you guys use? You doing the usual 2-3 squirts per fitting? Also any other places I should be greasing up? I was hoping to do this before it gets stupid cold.

Yesterday while installing a RCI transaxle brace, the one bolt that holds up two hard lines snapped off just right in the middle. Now I have to get up there with the 90 degree drill and try to extract it, worse possible place. I am sort of surprised the OEM fasteners would shear out that quick, but I have heard you guys talk about the crappy ones on the skid plates in general.
 
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i do all grease zerks every 10k miles with the oil change. just while im letting the oil drain. i also hit the UCA pivots as theyre poly on the DirtKing uppers.
 
Grug556 said:
Guys on the driveshaft joints there's a grease fitting on both ends (maybe more?) anyhow whats the frequency of greasing it? What type of grease you guys use? You doing the usual 2-3 squirts per fitting? Also any other places I should be greasing up? I was hoping to do this before it gets stupid cold.

Yesterday while installing a RCI transaxle brace, the one bolt that holds up two hard lines snapped off just right in the middle. Now I have to get up there with the 90 degree drill and try to extract it, worse possible place. I am sort of surprised the OEM fasteners would shear out that quick, but I have heard you guys talk about the crappy ones on the skid plates in general.
Click to expand...

Owner's manual says every 5K miles and to use NLGI No.2 Grease (lithium based). This is my interval and grease.

Yep forecasts have it chilling off this weekend with snow in the forecasts for Sunday/Monday. Winter is around the corner here in Montana.
 
On my 2004 4WD I believe there are a total of 7 fittings on front & rear shafts. I grease them every oil change. I push grease in until it comes out somewhere. I don't remember if my manual calls for a specific grease but I use the Lucas Red 'n Tacky lithium grease in an Alemite 555-E Pistol Grip Grease Gun
Amazon.com: Alemite 555-E Pistol Grip Grease Gun, Develops up to 7,500 psi, Delivery 1 oz./30 Strokes, 16 oz. Bulk or 14 oz. Cartridge, with Flexible Extension, Dual Leverage, Volume or Pressure Mode : Automotive
 
Same here. Every 5K. NLGI #2 grease.

Have got it down to a 10min job.

I do take some care to wipe away the excess that comes out of the joints with a shop towel. Exposed grease draws dirt into the assembly.

Jason
 
5k with my oil change, #2 on the spiders, #2 moly on the slips. Currently using lucas red n tacky and valvoline multi-vehicle moly on both my 4runner and land cruiser.

Amsoil used to be my go to, but to much hassle to get now.
 
Guys thanks for the reply. ANybody got any kind of diagram showing where the other 5 plus fittings are? Thanks on the NGLI2.
 
honda250xtitan said:
i use whatever is in the grease gun for all the zerks. usually its something spec'd for the poly bushings in the UCA. no way am i switching grease for the prop shaft lol
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Kinda my thought as well, but I actually have two grease guns now since I got JBAs. One with the MobilGrease XHP 222 that he recommends for the JBAs and one with normal Red N' Tacky or whatever I use on the lawnmowers and whatever else I need it for. Curious if using the Mobil on the driveshaft would be an issue?

I just used the Mobil on my ATVs and it is super slippery stuff. It made a noticeable difference in the steering on my sons little Polaris 90 and the rear suspension my big Yamaha.
 
OP,

If you don't already have one, get a "quick release" tip/coupler for your grease gun (example).

These lock on to and later release the zerk fitting with a simple spring-loaded lever.

Why this matters?
  • less grease leakage
  • keeps coupler from popping off
  • leaves two hands free to operate gun
  • makes it easier for hard-to-reach zerks

Money well spent.

Jason
 
jmcelroy said:
OP,

If you don't already have one, get a "quick release" tip/coupler for your grease gun (example).

These lock on to and later release the zerk fitting with a simple spring-loaded lever.

Why this matters?
  • less grease leakage
  • keeps coupler from popping off
  • leaves two hands free to operate gun
  • makes it easier for hard-to-reach zerks

Money well spent.

Jason
Click to expand...


Thanks Man! I had just ordered this from amazon. Will help pop off or lock on. I got a milwaukee electric M12 grease gun.. better safe than sorry
 
Sully888 said:
Do you guys use the same grease for UCAs and propeller shaft?
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When I was doing my own maintenance, I used the same grease. No way I'm dealing with two of those shitty grease guns

I used whatever Redline lithium grease I was using on the race car. If it's good enough for that...
 
jp.vegas said:
When I was doing my own maintenance, I used the same grease. No way I'm dealing with two of those shitty grease guns

I used whatever Redline lithium grease I was using on the race car. If it's good enough for that...
Click to expand...

I'm with you. Manual specs different grease for the sliding yoke, but I do all of them with the NLGI #2 gun.
 
Just did all mine today including my JBA UCAs with Mobil 1 222 Moly grease. The rear driveshaft popped like crazy. Definitely hadn't been done in awhile and definitely not in the almost 20k I've owned it. Some pretty dirty grease came out of both joints.

Took about 15 minutes and normal grease gun and fitting. Easy job. I may have put too much into the slip yokes with 10 pumps, but depressed the zerk and didn't seem to be under any pressure. Hope it's fine.
 
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