Group buy : DC power Engineering 270amp alternator

Hey [MENTION=55815]Okki[/MENTION] ,

The bottom line is that you and [MENTION=144561]DCPower_Anthony[/MENTION] did a fantastic job putting this huge effort together! ...there's a phrase that says: You can't please everyone...! Fact is that if you sent every person on this forum a fresh '$100 Dollar bill' there would inevitably be a certain percentage of people that would complain about the denomination of the Dollar bills that you chose to send them or the amount... 'tis just the condition of mankind! You and Anthony should be celebrating the outcome of the people who you have helped, and the many who do appreciate what you've done; including myself (I'm celebrating with you), Thanks sooo much! Sincerely,

rigtec, Greg
 
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Okki, thank you very much for coordinating this group buy. I appreciate all of your time to make it happen, and I'm sure it was a lot.

[MENTION=144561]DCPower_Anthony[/MENTION], thanks for working with our forum to offer a substantial discount on an outstanding product. Can't wait to get this bad boy installed!

Yesterday decided to get a jump start on increasing wire size/gauge prior to alternator install (shipping in a couple of weeks fingers crossed)............added 2 of the "BIG 3" wiring mod. All grounding points were cleaned prior to assemble to insure proper grounding. Positive wire will be installed during alternator install, certainly will be easier once battery is removed.

4ga wire, soldered terminals, added heat shrink to prevent corrosion.
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Added asphalt loom to positive wire to protect from exhaust heat and chaffing. Ground wires have standard split loom.
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4ga ground wire from negative battery terminal to body with anti corrosion spray.
20160821_133758.jpg


4ga ground wire from block to body & frame to body.
20160821_132541.jpg
 

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Hey Everyone,

We're in the process of finishing up all the frames, we have a pallet of new alternators internals on the way. We're pretty much ship all of them at the same time within the next week or so! Thanks for everyone's patience!
 
Hey Everyone,

We're in the process of finishing up all the frames, we have a pallet of new alternators internals on the way. We're pretty much ship all of them at the same time within the next week or so! Thanks for everyone's patience!
Awesome. Thanks for the good communication [MENTION=144561]DCPower_Anthony[/MENTION]
 
Looks like [MENTION=81322]barryhiram[/MENTION] beat me to it, but:

In preparation for my DC Engineering XP270 high output alternator, I completed the "Big 3 Upgrade". This basically means ADDING:
- a second positive from the alternator to the battery,
- a second ground from the battery to a (body) ground,
- a ground from the engine to a (body) ground.

I Used:
2 AWG Premium Extra Flexible Welding Cable 600 VOLT COMBO PACK - BLACK+RED - 15 FEET OF EACH COLOR - EWCS Spec - Made in the USA!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0167K786A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Install Bay Copper Ring Terminal 2 Gauge 3/8 Inch 10 Pack - CUR238
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005V9UWB2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Make sure you get heat shrink and loom if you don't have any in stock.

I used the following crimper:
10 Ton Hydraulic Wire Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Crimping Tool 9 Dies
https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Ba...=1471914923&sr=8-3&keywords=hydraulic+crimper

The tools/Parts needed:
29119718385_951d3691b5_z.jpg


Trim your cable to length:
29119718735_5750f77d11_z.jpg


Strip to the proper length for your lugs:
29119720355_0339e853d3_z.jpg


Crimp on the lugs with a good, solid crimp:
29119713475_ec851a55f1_z.jpg


Get all your lengths done:
29119708635_a7bd8137d1_c.jpg


Trim the alternator pin protector to allow the addition of your "big 3" positive cable.
29042702301_73e3a48ae6_z.jpg


Install your secondary positive cable and make sure to add some loom to protect it from the exhaust shield that's close by. Consider using some heat reflective tape as well (see the wire loom behind the red positive).
29119721115_79e874ea4f_z.jpg


Connect to the positive terminal on your battery:
29086865106_5e5f5b23de_b.jpg


Here's how I ran my engine ground. You can see where on the fender I ended up making my second ground connection.
28500731293_8dc98441b1_b.jpg


The secondary battery ground I ran along the fender:
29119722535_6d6df9ac36_b.jpg


Now I'm all ready for when my new alternator shows up!
Okki
 
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I'm in Boise all jealous that y'all get to play with you 4Runner's and prep for the alternator install... however, sounds like they won't be shipped for another week or so, but hey I have a 4 day weekend when I get home so I've got that going for me which is nice.
 
I'm just throwing this out there, but...

My truck has the 100a alternator (POS) and I would love to have someone's 130a when they replace it with the DC power unit- for a decent price that is!

Sorry for the slight hijack @Okki. Nice job with this GB!
 
I'm just throwing this out there, but...

My truck has the 100a alternator (POS) and I would love to have someone's 130a when they replace it with the DC power unit- for a decent price that is!

Sorry for the slight hijack @Okki. Nice job with this GB!

What's your price?? :whistle: Gotta recoup costs here...
 
"...My truck has the 100a alternator (POS) and I would love to have someone's 130a when they replace it with the DC power unit- for a decent price that is!..."

Hey Jeff, ( [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] )

I bet you could upgrade your 100A alternator to a 130 or 140 for less than $100 bucks... Stator=$36 dollars Rectifier=$34 bucks, and Brush holder=$6 dollars. I just googled Denso alternator parts and found a large surplus of denso/Toyota alt. parts very affordable. I think the 100A frame and 130A frame are exactly the same, so you may be able to exchange the stator; which determines the max output, and the brush holder and rectifier are just... well, let's call them 'sensible maintenance! ...may be worth looking into. I sold my factory 130A for $195 dollars on ebay. If I knew that you would've needed it, I would have sold it to you for 1/3 of that ($65)! I did a little browsing to see how much the parts might cost you if you were to go that route:

27-8205-1.jpg

Nippondenso Stators, Denso Stators

nippon3.png

# INR427 - Bridge Rectifier for Denso 130 Amp Alternators. Used On: 2013-01 Lexus, Lexus - Europe, Toyota, Toyota - Europe

s-l225.jpg

Alternator Brush Holder for Honda Lexus Toyota Suzuki Denso Nippondenso IR If | eBay

rig, 'Best to you!'
 
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Hey Jeff, ( [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] )

I bet you could upgrade your 100A alternator to a 130 or 140 for less than $100 bucks... Stator=$36 dollars Rectifier=$34 bucks, and Brush holder=$6 dollars. I just googled Denso alternator parts and found a large surplus of denso/Toyota alt. parts very affordable. I think the 100A frame and 130A frame are exactly the same, so you may be able to exchange the stator; which determines the max output, and the brush holder and rectifier are just... well, let's call them 'sensible maintenance! ...may be worth looking into. I sold my factory 130A for $195 dollars on ebay. If I knew that you would've needed it, I would have sold it to you for 1/3 of that ($65)! I did a little browsing to see how much the parts might cost you if you were to go that route:

27-8205-1.jpg

Nippondenso Stators, Denso Stators

nippon3.png

# INR427 - Bridge Rectifier for Denso 130 Amp Alternators. Used On: 2013-01 Lexus, Lexus - Europe, Toyota, Toyota - Europe

s-l225.jpg

Alternator Brush Holder for Honda Lexus Toyota Suzuki Denso Nippondenso IR If | eBay

rig, 'Best to you!'

Shoot I was just gonna say $75, a 12pk and cup holder mod and it's his...
 
I read that, you definitely got a decent price for it. :whoo:

Oh, almost forgot... the reason that I was asking so much was because I offered Free Priority S&H to anywhere in the united states bar AL and HI... think I may have spent $20 bucks IIRC!
 
Hey Jeff, ( [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] )

I bet you could upgrade your 100A alternator to a 130 or 140 for less than $100 bucks... Stator=$36 dollars Rectifier=$34 bucks, and Brush holder=$6 dollars. I just googled Denso alternator parts and found a large surplus of denso/Toyota alt. parts very affordable. I think the 100A frame and 130A frame are exactly the same, so you may be able to exchange the stator; which determines the max output, and the brush holder and rectifier are just... well, let's call them 'sensible maintenance! ...may be worth looking into. I sold my factory 130A for $195 dollars on ebay. If I knew that you would've needed it, I would have sold it to you for 1/3 of that ($65)! I did a little browsing to see how much the parts might cost you if you were to go that route:

27-8205-1.jpg

Nippondenso Stators, Denso Stators

nippon3.png

# INR427 - Bridge Rectifier for Denso 130 Amp Alternators. Used On: 2013-01 Lexus, Lexus - Europe, Toyota, Toyota - Europe

s-l225.jpg

Alternator Brush Holder for Honda Lexus Toyota Suzuki Denso Nippondenso IR If | eBay

rig, 'Best to you!'


Thanks for the suggestion!
You know- I would go that route if this wasn't my daily driver. I'm sure I could make the swap- It would even be a lot of fun!- but changing parts inside an alternator is just asking for reduced reliability- IMO.


I've already received a PM from another awesome member on here that is really hooking me up!
 
I'm just throwing this out there, but...

My truck has the 100a alternator (POS) and I would love to have someone's 130a when they replace it with the DC power unit- for a decent price that is!

Sorry for the slight hijack @Okki. Nice job with this GB!
What do you consider a fair price for one that will have under 5000 miles or less on it when I get mine replaced?
 

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