Guess that part!

TPatt88

New member
Hi guys!

I have been in contact with one of the fine companies that is listed on the side of this forum and they have set me up with these.

Anyone want to take a stab at what these are?

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Hopefully they will be on my rig by the end of Thursday (hopefully).

Good luck guessing!

Tim
 
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D'Oh! And here I thought I was the first to have them for a 5th Gen. Oh well.

The other member who has these brackets has fitment issues. The hood doesn't close properly. If yours closes properly, then you will be the first to have the 5th gen ditch light brackets that work properly.
 
What in the wide wide world of sports is a ditch light? I know I could search, but it is 2 am...... :wow:

ETA: Never mind...... :keyboard:
 
Last edited:
Wiring it up trouble

So, I have the brackets and lights mounted. The wiring run from the lights to the battery and then the switch gear into the interior. I have seen light from my two Bean LED Dually style lights that came with. Problem is I cannot get the "Ditch Lights" switch provided to me by CBI to work the lighting at all.

The Bean's came with a harness and a cheesy switch to operate the lights. We had to cannibalize the basic provided switch to wire up the rocker ditch lights switch and here is where the troubles have started. We cannot seem to get the switch to do anything other than being back-lit when wired (in any combination of wiring set up). Here are some pictures of what is going on. Can anyone chime in if we are doing anything wrong here?

Here is the whole package of items: Pretty sweet!
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Any advice is accepted. I am not even a novice wiring guy, my friend is decent, but we cannot seem to understand why this thing won't work. When we take the female wire connectors off and touch the back prongs of the rocker switch to bare metal we can get light from the LED's, but the switch does not seem to turn the light on or off.

UGHHHH!

Thanks!
 
If you aren't using a relay the wiring should be simple!

From the battery + to a fuse to the switch terminal input. Then a wire from the switch terminal output to the + side of the LED lights (the LED lights need to be grounded too!). To determine which terminals these two are use a continuity tester on them. When the switch is "on" you will have continuity, when "off" nothing.

The other terminal on the switch is a ground for the switch amber LED.
 
If you aren't using a relay the wiring should be simple!

From the battery + to a fuse to the switch terminal input. Then a wire from the switch terminal output to the + side of the LED lights (the LED lights need to be grounded too!). To determine which terminals these two are use a continuity tester on them. When the switch is "on" you will have continuity, when "off" nothing.

The other terminal on the switch is a ground for the switch amber LED.

Thanks Antman. Part of the main wiring harness is a fuse and what I believe is a relay that has all the wires going into it and out of it.

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The fuse box here comes directly off the leads to the battery terminals.
 
The other member who has these brackets has fitment issues. The hood doesn't close properly. If yours closes properly, then you will be the first to have the 5th gen ditch light brackets that work properly.

I did have fitment issues as well. But a dremel solved that. I'll post about that after I finally get the suckers to operate properly.
 
I did have fitment issues as well. But a dremel solved that. I'll post about that after I finally get the suckers to operate properly.

I had fitment issues as well, I thought about the dremel, but the piece that needs "adjusting" seems like it would drip water into the fire wall, I did a complete review to CBI but have yet to hear back from them. If I only had to cut out the little edge pieces that would have been wonderful but keen to see what actually lies beneath that air dam between the windshield and hood, if water leakage will be an issue.
 
I was the elusive other member who was the first guinea pig for these. The "fit" issue, was really minor (hood does not appear to close as perfectly flush as before (Like a fraction of an inch). Rather than screw around with where it hits, I just said screw it. Looks fine. Hood closes correctly/safely.

photo_zpsd5c99e10.jpg~original


photo2_zpsd351c118.jpg~original
 
Considering this lighting option for mine. Could you please post a picture from the drivers seat of the lights. Just curious how these effect the field of view.
 
Yah I can get you something tomorrow - currently, I have the Rigid bracket installed (can be installed one of two ways), where the light sits higher than option number 2. As a result, it sits about 1" higher than it otherwise could. I have been meaning to switch it around, but just havnt done so yet. Any picture I can post for you at this juncture would be more obtrusive than it otherwise could be. It looks a little weird if you havnt had ditch lights before, but I got over than in about 2 days.
 
I did have fitment issues as well. But a dremel solved that. I'll post about that after I finally get the suckers to operate properly.

What exactly did you trim? I just tried to install and the fit is too far off - which sucks since it could easily be remedied by CBI if they added another two bends.

It rubs right on the firewall/plastic part just inside the hood - really too bad. Was thinking to trim it but it makes more sense to bend the brackets correctly.
 
What exactly did you trim? I just tried to install and the fit is too far off - which sucks since it could easily be remedied by CBI if they added another two bends.

It rubs right on the firewall/plastic part just inside the hood - really too bad. Was thinking to trim it but it makes more sense to bend the brackets correctly.

I just installed mine last weekend and yeah... I had to trim the plastic on both sides :( And yeah two more bends would have made that unnecessary!

I have my lights angled outward at about 45 deg and down some to fill in the dark area to the sides of the normal headlights.
 
What exactly did you trim? I just tried to install and the fit is too far off - which sucks since it could easily be remedied by CBI if they added another two bends.

It rubs right on the firewall/plastic part just inside the hood - really too bad. Was thinking to trim it but it makes more sense to bend the brackets correctly.

Yeah tpo bad considering the product is a cool, kind of low key, inexpensive way too run some LED's. But yeah I trimmed back the firewall plastic thingy. I actually never put pictures up of it. Guess I should work on that....
 

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