geofox784
New member
I already wrote this guide, but it was lost during the hack a few weeks ago. Guess I'll type it again from scratch.
My rear view camera shorted out after washing my car. Only displayed a black screen with occasional static. I was going to replace it with another OEM camera, but they are going for about $500 and used cameras were not much better.
I decided to replace the camera with an aftermarket camera. The biggest problem with this is that the OEM camera uses 6v instead of the much more common 12V. I found some 6v cameras, but they were either very expensive or months away in china.
This guide shows specifically how to replace the camera at the OEM location, but you can also use this to know how to wire in an aftermarket location at a relocated location, such as when you install a swing out bumper.
To do this you will need:
- A 12V backup camera. In theory you can use any 12V backup camera, but I would used this one because it resembles the shape of the OEM cam. (Update: I switched to a better camera. See bottom of this post)
- A DC to DC boost converter.
- A soldering iron
- Shrink tubing
- Hot glue
- Drill
- Wire strippers
- Very small flathead screwdriver.
- Wire loom harness tape or similar.
First, remove the camera. I used this guide. It was fairly easy.
This is the wiring diagram from the FSM. I assumed that CGND = camera ground, CB+ = Camera 6V positive, CV- = camera feed ground, and CV+ = camera feed positive. I assumed correctly.
This is the wiring diagram that I created on how to connect the camera. You are going to use the boost converter to bump the 6V up to the needed 12V. You could also power the camera from another 12V source, but this was much easier.
Here is what you should have once you have the camera removed using the guide:
I used a mixture of a drill and hotknife to modify the OEM camera mount to fit the new camera. I had to slot the holes in a small amount as well as remove some plastic so that the camera sat flush with the mount. Luckily the new camera had close mounting hole dimensions to the old cam.
Here it is after attaching it.
Cut and then strip the cable off of the OEM camera.
Solder the boost converter to the OEM cable using the diagram above as a reference. Do NOT attach the camera yet. Plug the cable back into the car and then move the key to the RUN position. This will provide 6V to the boost converter. Using a small screwdriver, adjust the boost converter until you are seeing roughly 12V on the OUT side. Anything between 12V and 14V should be fine. Once this is done, remove the cable and pull out the key.
Wire and then heat shrink everything up using the diagram I made above. I used some hot glue to waterproof the boost converter.
Plug it in and then test it by starting up the car and putting it in reverse. The camera should be working now.
Wrap everything up in wire loom harness tape or similar.
Reinstall the camera. I folded the cable over itself and then taped it.
Unless you know exactly what OEM looks like, it looks like an OEM camera.
The camera quality is excellent and seems to be much crisper than the stock camera. Low light quality is also great. It does have parking assist lines that don't line up with the floor, but it doesn't bother me much. If this bothers you there are cameras available that have the option to disable the lines. The only thing I don't like about it is that it seems to not show the view as high as the OEM camera. I can't see the "horizon" on a level surface. Not a big deal though.
I later placed the OEM camera in a vice and opened it, or more accurately described exploded it, to see the inside. The small board inside didn't have any visible water damage, but it is a small board so it would be hard to tell. The steel frame around the board had visible rust though, so I think it is safe to say that the failure mode was water ingress into the camera.
Update: I switched to a better camera that is a true 180°. Every camera I found on amazon that advertises 180° is actually quite a bit less than that. With the true ultra wide camera I can see oncoming traffic when backing out of a parking space. Also, it comes in a 6v version so you will not need a boost converter.
Normal aftermarket camera:
A true fisheye camera (the one I linked):
My rear view camera shorted out after washing my car. Only displayed a black screen with occasional static. I was going to replace it with another OEM camera, but they are going for about $500 and used cameras were not much better.
I decided to replace the camera with an aftermarket camera. The biggest problem with this is that the OEM camera uses 6v instead of the much more common 12V. I found some 6v cameras, but they were either very expensive or months away in china.
This guide shows specifically how to replace the camera at the OEM location, but you can also use this to know how to wire in an aftermarket location at a relocated location, such as when you install a swing out bumper.
To do this you will need:
- A 12V backup camera. In theory you can use any 12V backup camera, but I would used this one because it resembles the shape of the OEM cam. (Update: I switched to a better camera. See bottom of this post)
- A DC to DC boost converter.
- A soldering iron
- Shrink tubing
- Hot glue
- Drill
- Wire strippers
- Very small flathead screwdriver.
- Wire loom harness tape or similar.
First, remove the camera. I used this guide. It was fairly easy.
This is the wiring diagram from the FSM. I assumed that CGND = camera ground, CB+ = Camera 6V positive, CV- = camera feed ground, and CV+ = camera feed positive. I assumed correctly.
This is the wiring diagram that I created on how to connect the camera. You are going to use the boost converter to bump the 6V up to the needed 12V. You could also power the camera from another 12V source, but this was much easier.
Here is what you should have once you have the camera removed using the guide:
I used a mixture of a drill and hotknife to modify the OEM camera mount to fit the new camera. I had to slot the holes in a small amount as well as remove some plastic so that the camera sat flush with the mount. Luckily the new camera had close mounting hole dimensions to the old cam.
Here it is after attaching it.
Cut and then strip the cable off of the OEM camera.
Solder the boost converter to the OEM cable using the diagram above as a reference. Do NOT attach the camera yet. Plug the cable back into the car and then move the key to the RUN position. This will provide 6V to the boost converter. Using a small screwdriver, adjust the boost converter until you are seeing roughly 12V on the OUT side. Anything between 12V and 14V should be fine. Once this is done, remove the cable and pull out the key.
Wire and then heat shrink everything up using the diagram I made above. I used some hot glue to waterproof the boost converter.
Plug it in and then test it by starting up the car and putting it in reverse. The camera should be working now.
Wrap everything up in wire loom harness tape or similar.
Reinstall the camera. I folded the cable over itself and then taped it.
Unless you know exactly what OEM looks like, it looks like an OEM camera.
The camera quality is excellent and seems to be much crisper than the stock camera. Low light quality is also great. It does have parking assist lines that don't line up with the floor, but it doesn't bother me much. If this bothers you there are cameras available that have the option to disable the lines. The only thing I don't like about it is that it seems to not show the view as high as the OEM camera. I can't see the "horizon" on a level surface. Not a big deal though.
I later placed the OEM camera in a vice and opened it, or more accurately described exploded it, to see the inside. The small board inside didn't have any visible water damage, but it is a small board so it would be hard to tell. The steel frame around the board had visible rust though, so I think it is safe to say that the failure mode was water ingress into the camera.
Update: I switched to a better camera that is a true 180°. Every camera I found on amazon that advertises 180° is actually quite a bit less than that. With the true ultra wide camera I can see oncoming traffic when backing out of a parking space. Also, it comes in a 6v version so you will not need a boost converter.
Normal aftermarket camera:
A true fisheye camera (the one I linked):
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