Had my CV axles replaced, now the VSC TRAC, VSC OFF & ABS lights are on...

I am having this same exact issue. I had a shop replace the driver cv axle with Napa NMD 944052 axle and when he was done the abs light came on. He checked with his scan guage to get more info and it said the driver front is bad. He and I looked at the wire and it looks good with no issues. I did notice that I can still see some thread of the cv axle by the wheel. Is this axle supposed to be flush and could this error be caused by this Napa CV axle.
 
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Axle joint should be flush with the backside of the spindle/knuckle. Exposed thread on the front side (brake rotor side, behind metal black dust cap) is OK.

Chances are that he stretched the wire and caused damage that is within the wire jacket that can't be seen. No reason that it should be working fine going in and bad on the receiving end.
 
Axle joint should be flush with the backside of the spindle/knuckle. Exposed thread on the front side (brake rotor side, behind metal black dust cap) is OK.

Chances are that he stretched the wire and caused damage that is within the wire jacket that can't be seen. No reason that it should be working fine going in and bad on the receiving end.

Thank you for your reply here is the pic I took of the new axle today the knucle seal does seem to look flush but I noticed today the outer boot leaking grease. I don't know what happened it was fine yesterday. Did I not get the right part?

19693202454_031a5f9c3d_o_d.jpg
 
Thank you for your reply here is the pic I took of the new axle today the knucle seal does seem to look flush but I noticed today the outer boot leaking grease. I don't know what happened it was fine yesterday. Did I not get the right part?

19693202454_031a5f9c3d_o_d.jpg
Looks like the boot split.
 
I am at the shop right now. We tried a new sensor from advanced auto but still had the light. They think the CV axle is the issue so they are installing another axle. Unsure of which brand they are using but there supplier is advanced auto parts. I ordered the wiring from Toyota yesterday and should arrive to dealer tomorrow just in case the light still stays on with the new axle.
 
I am at the shop right now. We tried a new sensor from advanced auto but still had the light. They think the CV axle is the issue so they are installing another axle. Unsure of which brand they are using but there supplier is advanced auto parts. I ordered the wiring from Toyota yesterday and should arrive to dealer tomorrow just in case the light still stays on with the new axle.


Its usually always the wire that goes from the frame, to the upper control arm, and down the steering knuckle to the sensor itself. Unlike other Toyota's, the wiring harness is seperate from the sensor.
 
So an update they installed the new axle and the light is still on. They told me I should go to a diagnostic specialist to get the abs sensor calibrated. When I went to the specialist today he plugged in his tools to the obd port and saw no communication between the ecu to the sensor and said that it has to be the wires. So he said tomorrow when I get the cable from Toyota to drop off my car so he can install the new wire and calibrate it properly.
 
So an update they installed the new axle and the light is still on. They told me I should go to a diagnostic specialist to get the abs sensor calibrated. When I went to the specialist today he plugged in his tools to the obd port and saw no communication between the ecu to the sensor and said that it has to be the wires. So he said tomorrow when I get the cable from Toyota to drop off my car so he can install the new wire and calibrate it properly.



Honestly, there's nothing to calibrate. The light is on because the ABS computer doesn't see the specified resistance that the sensor makes. It sees nothing.

Once the wire is all connected, the light will turn off.
 
pls confirm if the brake light is lit on the dash, a pals runner is having similar problem, though his brake light is also lit
 
Did you clear the codes? I had a recurring problem with mine coming back on until I cleared the codes. Afterwards the lights stayed off. I don't think it's typical but it was on mine.
 
Honestly, there's nothing to calibrate. The light is on because the ABS computer doesn't see the specified resistance that the sensor makes. It sees nothing.

Once the wire is all connected, the light will turn off.
I am unsure if the diagnostic specialist reset the calibration and that is why he wants me to come back after the new wire is installed?
pls confirm if the brake light is lit on the dash, a pals runner is having similar problem, though his brake light is also lit
No brake light on dash just the lights mentioned in the name of thread

Did you clear the codes? I had a recurring problem with mine coming back on until I cleared the codes. Afterwards the lights stayed off. I don't think it's typical but it was on mine.
The specialist did not clear the code. This would not of helped in my case since the diagnostic specialist could not receive any data from the sensor.
 
I am unsure if the diagnostic specialist reset the calibration and that is why he wants me to come back after the new wire is installed?

No brake light on dash just the lights mentioned in the name of thread


The specialist did not clear the code. This would not of helped in my case since the diagnostic specialist could not receive any data from the sensor.

There is no "specialist" needed for this nor any special calibration to be done. Your sensor is more than likely fine. This isn't ever really the issue. It's the wire itself that goes to the sensor that is damaged and has to be replaced. Have that wire replaced and you will have all the lights go out.
 
I'm siding with the stretched wire theory, they get man-handled a lot when doing a CV axe replacement and if you're not paying attention you can easily stretch one to where it breaks internally but the insulation is not broken. This will result in a loss of communication or too high a resistance of the sensor to be read by the Skid Control ECU.

There isn't a Calibration for the ABS Wheel Speed Sensors; there is a calibration for the Yaw Rate Sensor. But it is not needed for a wheel speed sensor replacement on a Toyota ABS system.
 
I'm siding with the stretched wire theory, they get man-handled a lot when doing a CV axe replacement and if you're not paying attention you can easily stretch one to where it breaks internally but the insulation is not broken. This will result in a loss of communication or too high a resistance of the sensor to be read by the Skid Control ECU.

There isn't a Calibration for the ABS Wheel Speed Sensors; there is a calibration for the Yaw Rate Sensor. But it is not needed for a wheel speed sensor replacement on a Toyota ABS system.

Thx just got the wire installed and abs light is gone but the vsc, vsc trac and slip indicator lights are still light
 
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Thx just got the wire installed and abs light is gone but the vsc, vsc track and slip indicator lights are still light

Try a "Zero Point Calibration" procedure, if you search for it in the forum it should bring some threads up on how to do it at home.

It's possible that while clearing the DTCs they reset it, but it's not hard to do.
 
Try a "Zero Point Calibration" procedure, if you search for it in the forum it should bring some threads up on how to do it at home.

It's possible that while clearing the DTCs they reset it, but it's not hard to do.

I let the diagnostic specialist do the zero point calibration since the shop that messed up is paying for it and if any other issues occur after the calibration he will be able to fix it. I just received the 4ruuner back and there is no light. He said all he had to do was do the calibration just like what BlackWorksInc mentioned.
 

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