Sonoran_Desert
Member
Are those homemade wooden ramps? I want those.
Had to go back to using the plastic oil filter housing
- Thread starter Nuke
- Start date
Are those homemade wooden ramps? I want those.
MikesDuneRunnerSLS
New member
Going off my experiences with the plastic oil filter "cap". Leakage is most common when if over torqued on install. Leakage is also common when the filter cap is installed and there is a lack of fresh oil applied to the outer o-ring prior to install. Leakage will be even more significant when both mistakes are made at the same time. In theory one issue with the metal filter cap could be different heat expansion rates between the truck-side housing versus the filter-side creating a gap for oil to leak past. My filter cap is fairly new doesn't leaking a drop. I ordered the OEM plastic one from McGeorge Toyota Parts online.
DougR
Member
That's an excellent ramp design for tires wider than stock. My handmade ramps are narrower for a stock tire size. Make yourself a pair. You'll find they are solid and stable. Mine have a ramp run-to-rise ratio of 16 to 5.5 inches which is easy to drive onto in 4Lo. The overall length of my ramp is 25 inches (flat) + 16 inches (ramp). The flat portion ends up being 21.5 inches long with a 3.5 x 3.5 stop block installed. His ramps appear to be a little higher than mine. 5.5 inches is the minimum height one needs to be able to remove a stock skid plate if the outer 1/4 inch of the J hooks are bent back from 90 to 45 degrees.
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Sonoran_Desert
Member
Thanks for the specs
1000MPH
Senior Member
China has flooded the world with counterfeit parts, inferior parts, and generally they tend to lie all the way to the highest levels about basically everything.
You don’t have to hate China to not trust them and not want their junk. It’s common sense. And China did this to themselves, so I have no pity when people turn up their noses and say screw China and they’re junk.
OP did you make sure to swap out the center cylinder with the one that was in the factory plastic cap?
For what it's worth I swapped to the aluminum housing almost 3 years ago and have done at least 8 oil changes since then with no issues whatsoever.
When I torque it to 20 ft lbs it always tightens down to the "just right" feeling.
For what it's worth I swapped to the aluminum housing almost 3 years ago and have done at least 8 oil changes since then with no issues whatsoever.
When I torque it to 20 ft lbs it always tightens down to the "just right" feeling.
Nuke
New member
I've been doing oil changes for over 50 years. Yes, the metal housing is OE Toyota. Yes, I replaced BOTH o-rings having lubed them first. Yes, when I did my 1st oil change using the metal housing I swapped the internal perforated tube and have since swapped it back to the plastic housing. Yes, I torqued the metal housing to 18 ft-lbs.
I had no issues during the 1st oil change (about 1 year) with the metal housing as well as 3 months on the 2nd oil change. Yes, I'm baffled.
I had no issues during the 1st oil change (about 1 year) with the metal housing as well as 3 months on the 2nd oil change. Yes, I'm baffled.
rayofsi
New member
i did a oil change over the weekend. previously had a jowett filter. But i also did a lower pivot mount kit from jdfabrications. Ended up going back to the original problem free plastic filter.
My Jowett Housing needed a 2.5" deep socket hex french to clear. no space for that. Back to the trusty oem housing for me.
Amazon.com: Motivx Tools MX2320-US 64.3mm 14 Flute Precision CNC Machined Aluminum Oil Filter Wrench Compatible with all Toyota and Lexus Cartridge Style Oil Filter Caps and Select Spin-On Filters : Automotive cheap wrench made in the usa if you are looking
My Jowett Housing needed a 2.5" deep socket hex french to clear. no space for that. Back to the trusty oem housing for me.
Amazon.com: Motivx Tools MX2320-US 64.3mm 14 Flute Precision CNC Machined Aluminum Oil Filter Wrench Compatible with all Toyota and Lexus Cartridge Style Oil Filter Caps and Select Spin-On Filters : Automotive cheap wrench made in the usa if you are looking
HighLighter
New member
I agree.
Dynamo
New member
My thoughts too. I'm not saying the plastic housing can't have problems but they have been problem free for me. 145k miles on my previous FJ and 38k miles on my current 4Runner, no leaks or cracks with me changing the oil every 5k miles using the correct tools.
Saker
Senior Member
Until you take your beloved T4R in for an oil change or you change it yourself, it slips out of the tech’s (or your) hands and hits the concrete. (yes this happens)
You pick it up, look at it, don’t see any damage. (Not even that hairline crack)
Put everything back together.
Success!!!!!
Until you are on the interstate one day cruising at 75, distracted or some backroad and your oil light comes on and you can’t get pulled over or stop until your engine has locked up.
I know now some of you are saying what’s the chances of that happening, right?
Well, it happens according to Toyota.
And if it happens to you, that’s one too many times.
IMHO, Toyota should have included these on these engines a long time ago.
Just sayin’
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I replaced the plastic one at my first oil change with a Dorman and at the time also bought a filter wrench at Advance Auto. I'm sure it was a China cheapie.
So far 25k miles and 3 filter changes with not a drop in leaks.
Get my filters at the dealer.
There has to be a defect in one of the mating surfaces like a scratch, or a defect in the orings or possibly porosity in the aluminum of either.
Funny story,
Guy I know has a Ram Sprinter type service van, changed his own oil.
Next day after probably 100+ miles of driving finds oil dripping on the ground. Non on dipstick.
He discovers the filter setup is leaking.
the setup is almost identical to ours but all plastic.
Tries fixing it 3 more times and still leaks.
Had me look at it and found he was not putting the oring in the groove but had it against the flange.
The irony here is that he makes big money repairing restaurant equipment. :faint2:
So far 25k miles and 3 filter changes with not a drop in leaks.
Get my filters at the dealer.
There has to be a defect in one of the mating surfaces like a scratch, or a defect in the orings or possibly porosity in the aluminum of either.
Funny story,
Guy I know has a Ram Sprinter type service van, changed his own oil.
Next day after probably 100+ miles of driving finds oil dripping on the ground. Non on dipstick.
He discovers the filter setup is leaking.
the setup is almost identical to ours but all plastic.
Tries fixing it 3 more times and still leaks.
Had me look at it and found he was not putting the oring in the groove but had it against the flange.
The irony here is that he makes big money repairing restaurant equipment. :faint2:
MikesDuneRunnerSLS
New member
We know you did it right I hope you don't think there was any implication of you being a hack. The problem is likely as simple as a production flaw. Defective parts are made every day.
Hammer0313
New member
I had the same issue with the OEM aluminum housing, had a small weep. I keep it in my tool box as a spare in case of an emergency. In all honesty the plastic has a very tiny Tiny weep right after an oil change, but once i get it on the interstate the higher oil pressure seems to seat the o-ring gasket. I think its most likely the mount off the front of the engine rather than the housing.
Hans Moleman
New member
I'm sticking with my plastic housing. Never had an issue with it breaking or leaking.
RichinRidgewood
New member
…never mind
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Nuke
New member
I appreciate all the responses. I've cleaned the metal housing, inspected it under magnification and will reinstall it next oil change which likely won't be until next June since that T4R isn't seeing a lot of mileage at this time. My stock of filters with the packaged o-rings are all OE so I'm still scratching my head on this one. I'll just be sure to leave the skid plate plate off for a bit after that next oil change.
