hairline crack on axle.. Can it be welded?

outlawed

New member
I bought a 93 4runner 4x4 5spd 3vze a few weeks ago. Knowing I have to put some money into it. I had a leak in the rear diff. While inspecting it I found it was leaking from a hairline crack right next to the welded mounting bracket on the drivers side. I was wondering if I can clean it up and weld it? If I weld it will it damage any internals?

I also found a sensor right above the rear diff that wasn't connected. I tired figuring out where it goes by the legnth of the cable no luck. .. What does it do?

Let me know guys Thank you.
 

Attachments

  • 20140812_190026-1.jpg
    20140812_190026-1.jpg
    139.3 KB · Views: 2,637
  • 20140812_185621-1.jpg
    20140812_185621-1.jpg
    111.8 KB · Views: 1,918
Register to hide this ad
I don't know. But I'm sure there are experts on here that do. If nothing else, I will post it on Weldingweb.com for you. Even if I get flamed.

Off the top of my head I think the toughest part would be cleaning and keeping the weld free from contaminants.

But I'm no pro.
 
That looks like an ABS sensor. Didn't know 2nd gen trucks had ABS, but if that's what it is there'll be a place for it near the end of the axle tube or maybe on the drum.

You can absolutely weld that crack up. You could even do it on the truck if you wanted, but best if you pull the housing and clean it up well first. Use the lowest heat you can and still get penetration, because warping the tube is always a concern when welding on your axle. Don't worry if you cock it up, IFS width rear housings are a dime a dozen. If you want to try another method, clean it up well and drill the end of the crack, then stuff it with JBWeld. Out of curiosity, how's the wear pattern on the rear tires? Crack like that makes me wonder if the rear housing is already bent.

/also not a pro
 
Weld it up man. Just make sure there isnt any weight on the axle when your doing it (if your doing it in the truck)

That sensor is an ABS sensor.
 
Sweet thanks guys. I'm gonna clean it up with some contact cleaner, lift it off the ground, grind it down, drain it n weld it, smooth it out, paint it, fill it up, then back on the road. (Did I miss a step?)

Does anyone know the thickness of the axle house of where its cracked?

Also I'm not too sure on the tire wear difference. I bought it with brand new 33" bfg mud terrains. I'll measure later. To the eye. .. No difference.
 
Yup Id just weld it also. Personally I'd remove it from the truck to weld but thats just me. As far as thickness I think its about 6mm or a bit less than a 1/4inch thick.
 
Thanks sam24th. I'm starting to hear a whine at +60 mphs. I'm thinking something is toast back there.

I picked up a set of diffs with 4.88 gears. So I'm gonna swap it out and get rid of the 4.30.
 
Sounds like you might have a toast bearing or worn teeth. Either way If you got the entire third member to swap in, the rear is an easy swap. I did mines in about 30minutes with it being in the truck. As for the crack that you need to weld, just make sure you clean off the weld surface real good before you try to weld it. If you clean it with brake cleaner make sure it is completely gone before welding. I had a friend make the mistake of welding some metal after cleaning it with old brake cleaner and he almost died from from the fumes caused by the brake cleaner. I dont know if its still relevant today since a lot of brake cleaners I see are now odorless or considered safe, but I thought I'd pass the word a long any ways since I general clean my axles and whatnot with brake cleaner.
 
Last edited:
Welding axle housing.

When you said you had a crack in the axle, I thought NO WAY! But it was not the hardened and heat-treated axle that has the crack, it is only the already welded axle HOUSING! Great. No problem. If you KNOW HOW TO WELD, then there is no problem welding the crack. Use some type of grinding notch tool to V it out a little. Unless it is right next where a ball bearing is pressed into the case, it will not transfer enough heat to damage anything inside. (Hey! What the heck are all these little weird moving and jumping little yellow ball things over there to the right? Distracting!)
 
This is a good opportunity to get a long nosed die grinder from Harbor Freight with a selection of wheels and a cut off wheel arbor and some 2" wheels to vee-groove for the weld. If you get a roll of 36 grit abrasive cloth backed sandpaper you can rip varying width strips, wrap them around the axle and cha cha yourself to clean metal and a well prepped weld area. The whole deal will cost under $50 and you get to keep the tools.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,124
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top