Hard Brake Line Replacement. Pre-bent or DIY (what's the specs)?

nobb

New member
The front and rear hard brake lines are getting pretty rusty on my 3rd gen 4Runner so I would like to replace them. I am just wondering if there are any online stores that you guys know of that sell pre-bent lines for an easy replacement?

I also don't mind bending them myself, but it's a bit hard trying to find the right generic lines here since most lines are in imperial. Does anyone know what the right thread specs to look for with these lines? I am assuming they are metric lines.

I am in Canada btw. No point going to the junkyard to get used lines because they are likely rusted as well.
 
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I just bent my own, I got the steel lines at Oreily (not sure if you have them in Canada?). i think they were M10x1 fittings???
 
I bought mine from an online dealer since they weren't that expensive. I didn't replace ALL the brake lines though, just the outermost hard lines.
 
I didn't realize Toyota would have something like this, but I guess I could try them as a last resort (will most likely be $$$).

In addition to the thread size (M10x1), what do I look for in regards to the flare? Just something that says Japanese?
 
Went to the local auto parts store today and they have 3/16 "Japanese" line pre-cut in different lengths. Strangely, there was no mention of the connector thread measurements, nor the flare angle. Would it be a safe assumption that all 3/16" "Japanese" lines should be identical in fitment?

I also dont mind cutting, bending, and flaring my own lines from bulk 3/16" tubing, but when I looked at the flaring tool they sold, it had cutouts for different line sizes (like 3/16), but there is no mention of the flare angle.

Am I just too picky, or should the standards be pretty consistent?
 
I know that I bought my flaring tool from AutoZone, and it works perfectly.

It has the mounts that you need in order to get the different size lines in there, and a little red, almost giant punch looking thing that has a bracket on it.

I also bought a bender, and went to the Pull-A-part and got as many fittings as I could, because I'm going to be doing an ABS delete; as in getting rid of the pump and all.

I also bought a roll of 3/16" brake line from AutoZone. Cost me like 25 bucks for 20 feet or something like that...
 
I bought new fuel and brake lines through toyota for my 89... i think it came to about 3-400 for all of them. Not too bad. That was for ALL the lines.
 
I know that I bought my flaring tool from AutoZone, and it works perfectly.

It has the mounts that you need in order to get the different size lines in there, and a little red, almost giant punch looking thing that has a bracket on it.

I also bought a bender, and went to the Pull-A-part and got as many fittings as I could, because I'm going to be doing an ABS delete; as in getting rid of the pump and all.

I also bought a roll of 3/16" brake line from AutoZone. Cost me like 25 bucks for 20 feet or something like that...

Please take pics and do a writeup. I want to do this on my 99.

As for replacing the lines, if you don't want to go through Toyota, then I'd spend the money to get the tools and do it myself.
 
I know that I bought my flaring tool from AutoZone, and it works perfectly.

It has the mounts that you need in order to get the different size lines in there, and a little red, almost giant punch looking thing that has a bracket on it.

I also bought a bender, and went to the Pull-A-part and got as many fittings as I could, because I'm going to be doing an ABS delete; as in getting rid of the pump and all.

I also bought a roll of 3/16" brake line from AutoZone. Cost me like 25 bucks for 20 feet or something like that...

What is the benefit of deleting the ABS entirely? Can't you just disable it by pulling the fuse?
 
^Weight/engine bay cluter is all I can think of... Slightly off topic but what is the benifit of even disabling the abs in these trucks?
 
What is the benefit of deleting the ABS entirely? Can't you just disable it by pulling the fuse?

^Weight/engine bay cluter is all I can think of... Slightly off topic but what is the benifit of even disabling the abs in these trucks?

I lost my ABS when I did my 8.4" swap and my manual hub conversion.

The light is constantly on, and the pump is taking up space.

I'm going to put my ARB Compressor in its place.

That, and ABS can kill you on the trail.
 
^Weight/engine bay cluter is all I can think of... Slightly off topic but what is the benifit of even disabling the abs in these trucks?

Mine was insanely sensitive. I would be braking on a completely dry street, hit a small bump and the ABS would kick on. Even with my 34" tires, I feel safer with no ABS.
 
Bumping this thread, I haven't gotten around to replacing my lines yet. I just wanted to verify one thing: On the HARD lines (all four sides), is the correct fitting a 10mm MALE 1.0 thread japanese flare?

I want to order the lines, but dont want to have to take apart my current lines to figure out the sizing.

Also, are there suitable flex lines that can be ordered with custom lengths? That would make it easier in not having to bend them. All the flex lines I see seem to be as a rubber line replacement, and not to replace the hard lines.
 
I would at least price them from the dealership, might not be as $$$ as you think. I bought a hard line from the center of the axle to the caliper on my Land Cruiser rear axle and it was only $14.00. Just a thought. On a personal note, I hate flaring tubing never seems to go my way.
 
Maybe in the states, but here in Canada dealers gouge us for parts. Last time I priced it out I think it was ~$80 per line.

I might drive down to Montana in the next few months so perhaps it's worth getting them there...
 
sorry to dig up an old post like this....

Has anyone done this recently? I talked to my local dealership, and they said the hard brake lines were NLA, and recommended I call Napa. They told me to bring 'em in and match 'em up. Anyone have it documented what size brake lines are needed?

thanks in advance.

Matt
 
3/16" diameter, M10 x 1.0, 45 degree Japanese flare. The OEM length that I measured was 10" front (both) and 34" rear driver's side, 35" rear passenger side. However, I used precut lines that were 12" front (both) and 30" rear (both). 30" was a bit tight in the rear but I got it to fit by not using all the OEM mounting points.
 
3/16" diameter, M10 x 1.0, 45 degree Japanese flare. The OEM length that I measured was 10" front (both) and 34" rear driver's side, 35" rear passenger side. However, I used precut lines that were 12" front (both) and 30" rear (both). 30" was a bit tight in the rear but I got it to fit by not using all the OEM mounting points.

Awesome, thanks!! In the front on mine, there is an adapter/joiner that goes at a right angle on the frame - does it serve a purpose? Also NLA from the dealership, and I'm not sure mine is re-usable. I have to assume it does, but it would be a lot easier to just bend the line and have one piece. Will post a picture if I can figure it out.

Matt
 

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