Hard Brake Line Replacement. Pre-bent or DIY (what's the specs)?

[heavy_nodder]

You going to have to drop the tank unless you reroute the line.

Probably more economical to just buy the replacement rubber hose at an autoparts store. As those can collapse internally with age as well.

I done several of these lines. The 2 back ones are the worst only because they go behind the gas tank and Clip on the coil plate.

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Thanks [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION] for your help. Just wanted to come back and let you know that we were able to successfully replace the rear half of driver side hard line. We cut the lower hard line from the union on the frame (just before the tank) and I was able to grab onto it with wise grips above the rear axle and pull it completely out without too much resistance. Then we routed the new hardline from the front of the tank between the frame and the tank and it actually came out right in the same spot where the old line was (right above the rear driver spring) and we were able to clip it back into the plastic hardline clips on the frame. The only thing that we ran into was that once everything was back together the rear fitting that connects into the rubber hose was dripping; it appeared that the m10 inverted flare was a few threads too short and it just would not make a tight connection, it seemed like the fitting was bottoming out. So, we had to replace that fitting with an M10 bubble flare fitting, which was a little longer and once tightened the drip stopped. Bled the brakes, all good now!

Again, thanks for your help!

Ivan from Traverse City, MI

 

[brillo_76]

Glad you got it replaced. That line is one of the harder ones to get replaced. The front line on the same run is interesting as well.

On really rusted lines, it's best to cut the line at the flare nut. That way you can get a deep well 10mm socket to turn the flare nut out.

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[heavy_nodder]

Hindsight, there was enough of the original line available and enough room to work a flaring tool up in there since I took a spare off and I could have saved myself some time had I just cut the rusted elbow off at the fitting up to the healthy part of the line (only about two inches), put a new fitting, re-flared the line and reconnected. But whatever, I learned that it was doable, especially when you have a car lift.

To your point about using a 10mm deep socket, that’s exactly what we did at the union.

On another note, time to patch the frame again

 

[brillo_76]

Hindsight, there was enough of the original line available and enough room to work a flaring tool up in there since I took a spare off and I could have saved myself some time had I just cut the rusted elbow off at the fitting up to the healthy part of the line (only about two inches), put a new fitting, re-flared the line and reconnected. But whatever, I learned that it was doable, especially when you have a car lift.

To your point about using a 10mm deep socket, that’s exactly what we did at the union.

On another note, time to patch the frame again

I do it on all rusty brake lines as you have a great chance of getting them out if you just cut them at the flare nut.

That's why I suggest folks just drop the tank as mostly you may need a patch or 2 on your frame in that general area and with the gas tank out its a lot safer to weld it up..

With a car lift, Its a lot easier. When I did the last 2 of mine, I didn't have the car lift yet.

Plus your filler tube and tank will have some spots that need addressed as well to keep from rusting through. If you catch them in time, you can actually save the tank, skid and the filler tube before the oxidation gets them
and you have to replace it all.

 

[GG2000-4Runner]

Vendor for entire brake hard line set

This may help those who are looking to replace all of their brake hard lines at once. LinesToGo sells the entire set for $274.99.

1996 Toyota 4Runner 3.4L Brake Lines | 1996 4Runner- LinesToGo

 

[burningclutch]

[MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION], thank you for your input. I will try the local junk yard, however, this area is very heavy on winter salt use, so chances of me finding a non-corroded line are pretty low but it is worth a call.

It seems like the only real option will be to make the line, and that’s where I needed to confirm:

the type of tubing (stainless or copper nickle?)
tubing size (3/16?)
fittings (M10x1.0?)
flare type (double flare?)

Thank you

Hey I saw you were wrestling with some fittings, I've purchased the tacoma lines in order to delete the hard line out of the caliper but it doesn't seem to want to thread onto the next hard line. Curious if your fittings looked like this with the unthreaded portion at the tip? I'm puzzled because there seem to be countless people that have used these tacoma lines with no problems.

 

[ScottyC]

From Microsoft Copilot:

For a 2002 Toyota 4Runner, here are the key specifications for brake pipes and fittings:
Brake Pipe Size
• The hard brake lines are typically 3/16" (4.75 mm) in diameter.
• This size is standard for many Japanese vehicles and is often labeled as "Japanese line" at auto parts stores.
Fitting Specifications
• The fittings are generally M10 x 1.0 metric thread.
• Toyota uses double flares (inverted flares) on their brake lines, which are essential for proper sealing.
• You’ll need a flare nut wrench (10mm and 14mm sizes) to avoid stripping the fittings during installation.
️ DIY Considerations
• You can bend your own lines using a tube bender to avoid crimping.
• A double flaring tool is required to prepare the ends of the brake lines correctly.
• Pre-cut and pre-flared lines with fittings are available at most auto parts stores if you prefer not to fabricate them yourself.
Would you like help finding a brake line kit or tools for this job?
References
[1] Hard Brake Line Replacement. Pre-bent or DIY (what's the specs ...
[2] What Size Are Toyota Brake Lines? - GearShifters