Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors

[Trailblazer]

Thanks to BFAD and the Speedy's garage video, we can count one more T4R with upgraded brakes! I just finished up with gravity bleeding, so I'll give it a test run tomorrow and bed the brakes.

Thanks again to all who have contributed to make this mod about as straight forward as can be.

 

[Brian1973]

I agree, brakes ARE vitally important, but then again, JB Weld does it's job when I've used it... and I sorta doubt there is even high pressure in brake lines that could break a jb weld in this instance??? I'm the type to err on just buying another caliper unless someone could show me a schematic showing the caliper layout to know there isn't another issue like this close to the surface.... but figured this might make a descent idea if thinking this thoroughly through... I'm doing this brake job to a 14 yr old truck, brake lines are metal and rust... I might have a better chance rupturing a brake line vs jb weld? Just was curious if anyone had tried grinding the caliper and gotten similar results as well... aaaaaand, if not, I have pics to prove a possible result ;-) The hole hooks to the side towards one of the caliper pistons, pushing a paperclip in goes about 0.25"...

 

[Troybylt]

I agree, brakes ARE vitally important, but then again, JB Weld does it's job when I've used it... and I sorta doubt there is even high pressure in brake lines that could break a jb weld in this instance??? I'm the type to err on just buying another caliper unless someone could show me a schematic showing the caliper layout to know there isn't another issue like this close to the surface.... but figured this might make a descent idea if thinking this thoroughly through... I'm doing this brake job to a 14 yr old truck, brake lines are metal and rust... I might have a better chance rupturing a brake line vs jb weld? Just was curious if anyone had tried grinding the caliper and gotten similar results as well... aaaaaand, if not, I have pics to prove a possible result ;-) The hole hooks to the side towards one of the caliper pistons, pushing a paperclip in goes about 0.25"...

 

[slapdappy]

I agree, brakes ARE vitally important, but then again, JB Weld does it's job when I've used it... and I sorta doubt there is even high pressure in brake lines that could break a jb weld in this instance??? I'm the type to err on just buying another caliper unless someone could show me a schematic showing the caliper layout to know there isn't another issue like this close to the surface.... but figured this might make a descent idea if thinking this thoroughly through... I'm doing this brake job to a 14 yr old truck, brake lines are metal and rust... I might have a better chance rupturing a brake line vs jb weld? Just was curious if anyone had tried grinding the caliper and gotten similar results as well... aaaaaand, if not, I have pics to prove a possible result ;-) The hole hooks to the side towards one of the caliper pistons, pushing a paperclip in goes about 0.25"...

You can do some grinding on the inner part of the 3 spoke 16" WHEEL for clearance. Plenty of info posts re this.
I assume the JB Weld will not stick because of the brake fluid. Maybe tap the hole and use a short bolt to plug it? Maybe include an aluminum washer because aluminum is soft and may act like a crush washer and form to the uneven caliper surface, creating a better seal.
Or use a threaded rivet instead of tapping threads, then a bolt and washer.
first file flat and smooth the outer surface immediately around the hole.

 

[Brian1973]

I've seen the grinding on the wheels idea... This requires grinding ALL 4 wheels if you want to make sure you don't have problems down the line when rotating... It also requires you to have a suitable spare wheel that can clear the larger caliper.... then there is the rebalancing issue... (not a huge deal if you have lifetime balancing where you bought the tires) but do you really want to grind 5 wheels and spend all that time checking clearances... each way has it's caveats.

Grinding the caliper would seem a simpler idea and cheapest of 3 (grind wheels, grind caliper, spacer) that I've studied. Currently, I bought another caliper and going to see what the clearance is with the 1/4" spacer route... If you look at the first picture, even with the grinded caliper and my jb weld job doing fine, it's still awfully close... maybe 1/8 if not closer... I have to think things flex just that amount on occasions for one reason or another (ie accidentally run over a curb or hit a huge pot hole) and don't like things THAT close.... If that wheel hits that caliper, you are going to have major issues!

Word to the wise, part of the extra grinding I did was because I couldn't figure what part of the caliper was stopping the wheel from turning using a flashlight behind the wheel and a mirror.... if you look closely, I have the jackstand under the lower ball joint and stupidly come to find out, each time I gently tightened the lug nuts, the tire itself was pressing against the jackstand... SMH!!! I could probably grind a little more carefully on a new reman'd caliper and maybe be able to avoid exposing this hole, but it's iffy and I'm more concerned there are other hidden pathways behind the grinded area that may be weakened....

btw, putting a bolt in the hole would definitely not work... as stated above, the clearance as is is already below 1/8".... the clearance is SUPER tight and the jb weld will hold I have no doubt... I cleaned the hole with brake cleaner and once it was dry and clean, applied...

For now, trying the spacer route. Forked out another $75 for a caliper and $17 for 2 spacers... and $36 for 12 (2x6) longer lug studs (rear studs for 4Runner) Just had to drive to a couple different stores to get the rear lug studs since no one seemed to have more than a few... :-(

 

[One Sick Puppy]

Ok, trying to make accomodations for this brake mod, 2 questions:

What's the minimum wheels spacers needed for the 16" 3 split spoke OEM wheels?

ANyone know if these Taco wheels will work:

 

[Brian1973]

Plenty of info around here about which wheels work I believe... I believe they said 1/4" spacer for the split spoke OEM... I will be doing in the morning if I can figure a way to quit ripping new lug studs in half using an air lug wrench to seat the longer rear wheel studs into the hub.... I'm thinking may grind the studs just a hair around to make sure they go in easier, I'm getting new ones that won't seat and took waaaaaay too long to get back into the hub! :-/

 

[One Sick Puppy]

Brian, thanks for the reply about the wheel spacers. I did look thru every page of this thread (30+) but at the time I wasn't looking for wheel spacer info. Surprising that u still need longer studs even with 1/4 spacers.

I saw a post inquiring about those Tacoma wheels but no specific replies whether they fit or not. They look like they would fit, but I'd prefer not to buy them or the brake upgrade before I know for sure. Those rims are more common in my area it seems.

 

[Brian1973]

Might need a year on those wheels and size.... yes, the extra stud length from the rear studs give the nuts a little more bite to get em started with the spacer installed......

 

[One Sick Puppy]

Might need a year on those wheels and size.... yes, the extra stud length from the rear studs give the nuts a little more bite to get em started with the spacer installed......

The taco wheels above appear to be from 2008 to 2014 from the ads available that I've seen.

Also have these 2005 tundra wheels available which I'm assuming will fit for sure. Seller says they are from a 2005 V8 non-4x4.

 

[Brian1973]

Both 16"? Your guess is as good as mine, but I'd say the Tundra's should fit, makes sense.... don't think there is any difference in rotor or brakes on 2wd vs 4 wd Tundra when I bought the parts at Autozone... Taco wheels might work but may need spacer? where there's a will there's a way... figure which ya like, pull the trigger... and have fun figuring it out... Sorry I'm no more help, this is new to me too ;-) Hopefully someone with more knowledge on this issue will check in Might have better luck starting a new thread though with "Tacoma Wheels fit over 231 Tundra brakes?" and ask these questions there?

 

[One Sick Puppy]

Thanks for the help. I think I'm going to just install the bigger brakes, then use some spacers or grind temporarily so I can drive around a little to test the various rims available.

 

[tre9er]

I got most of my gear from Advance Auto ONLINE ONLY, because they were offering something similar to: 20% off, or $30 off of $75, $50 off of $100 or something like that. I ended up doing around 6 orders (To Save $$$) for my entire Tundra 13WL brake upgrade and ended up spending around $300 and I got the more expensive of everything. I went with Wagner ThermoQuiet Ceramic brakes, etc.

I HIGHLY suggest doing it this way, you'll end up paying around $275-$330 for the entire job, for name brand parts and new equipment.

Here are some PROMO codes, use these upon checkout online at AdvanceAutoparts.com
Advance Auto Parts Coupons: Get $30 Off w/ 2013 Coupon Codes, Promo Code

ENJOY!!!

There are an updated list of coupon codes at the link above. I used the 30% off ($50 max discount) code to get rotors and pads for $128 shipped for all of it! Now I'm looking for junkyard calipers to rebuild. Anyone has a line on any calipers, PM me!

I'm primarily looking to rebuild my own because of the core charge scenario with different PN's going back...don't want any surprises after I've taken everything apart/put everything in...

Thanks Brian!

 

[foxrider56]

im about to do this i just need to figgure out the part numbers for the rotors, also are they the same part numbers for both sides? :thanks:

 

[One Sick Puppy]

Part numbers for the OEM rotors are on the first page - there is a picture of the boxes. Pretty sure they are the same for both sides, but not the calipers.

 

[tre9er]

Part numbers for the OEM rotors are on the first page - there is a picture of the boxes. Pretty sure they are the same for both sides, but not the calipers.

Yes, rotors are same both sides, calipers are not. Pads will come in a set, or should.

 

[Brian1973]

Cores aren't a big deal... take the 4runner calipers back in the tundra caliper boxes, the employee of the auto parts store would have to pull out a ruler or measuring device to figure they are different or be keen to the swap out idea and I'd give that a 1% chance.... just return em, they go back to some business that probably reman's both so they will figure it out....

 

[ugamurph]

im about to do this i just need to figgure out the part numbers for the rotors, also are they the same part numbers for both sides? :thanks:

OEM Tundra rotors, Part # 43512-0C011
OEM Tundra brake pads, Part # 04465-35290
OEM Tundra shims, Part# 04945-35120

 

[Brian1973]

Been working on this project for a few days in what little spare time I have... What I thought would be simple turned into chaos... Went with the grind caliper idea, then scrapped that idea... went with the spacer idea instead.... Needed longer studs and from those that have done it, it seemed simple enough, just pound out the old studs and buy rear wheel studs and install... This part took the most egregious amount of time ever! lol

Be aware, most parts stores only stock a few of these studs.... I went to 4 different stores to get the amount needed by the time the chaos ended... Check the pic, the rear studs are not just longer, they also have a different size shoulder to them.

 

[Brian1973]

After using an air compressor with 180psi and a heavy duty impact wrench to tighten the lugs into the hub, I ripped off 3 studs (which also lost me 3x $5 lug nuts), I stripped out or warped threads on just as many studs and lug nuts as I broke... I mangled my spacers a little bit using it to keep from mangling lug nuts... but all is done and bled and bedded in

Note that in order for the longer rear studs to mount FLUSH to the hub, the harder hub had to deform the studs to fit.... Luckily a few of them eventually got in there without breaking or deforming... I eventually solved this problem after going out looking for extra studs after I barely finished the first side by using a grinder to adjust the new rear studs I needed to install so they would fit better into the tapered hole of the hub....

Previous picture of the longer stud was one I used impact wrench on and then finally just pounded it back out because it wasn't budging.... This picture is after I used a bench grinder to grind some of the knurling and girth of the stud at the shoulder... I stress it's dangerous if you go too far towards the end of the stud... last thing we need is a stud spinning with the lug nut tightened to our wheel.... I left some knurling to hopefully keep that from happening even though the studs were still very snug to get into the hub using a freshly recharged 180psi compressor....