Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors

Big FishAllDay, Fantastic POST!! Wow, it's better than an assembly manual! When I get to a brake upgrade I will keep all of this info on my workbench! It's members like you that make this forum such a valuable resource. THANKS A BUNCH!! BigFishAllDay, by the way, I came across your fishing trip pics... as a kid, all we caught was Jack fish (Northern Pike) which dominated most lakes in Northern Sask., Alberta and Manitoba. They are good eating if: you can a) get past the slime and b) fillet it properly to avoid the bones (a native lady showed us how) and c) cook it in a cast skillet with oil and corn meal..... sorry, memories from childhood!
Thanks again for your posts--- you're passing on invaluable experience to all of us!!!!
 
what the heck?

fish has some of the best POSTS here! If anyone examines them, they are full of pics, stats, measurements!!! They read like a training manual. Who the hell every heard of warped factory rotors!?!?!? If they're warped, then they're someone's restock scam or crap off the shelf..... time to find a better supplier....
:toilet:
 
people really need to stop quoting gigantic posts haha

....

on a side note, picked up all the parts for this a couple weeks ago, plus ss brake lines, and spidetraxx! :)
 
so wheelers type B 16x8 steel wheels will clear the 231s??? no spacers??

Hey Runner4twitch,

Will you please go back and edit your last TWO posts and REMOVE the unnecessary quotes?

There is no reason to do that (quote entire posts), and the major concern for me is that it eats up my photo hosting bandwidth quickly, and will result in the pictures going dead for the entire write-up until the bandwith resets. That in turn detracts from other people's ability to use the write-up as it was intended to be used.

Thanks, and please avoid doing that in the future.
 
Thanks man, I appreciate it.

BTW, the info I posted on the Wheeler's type B's was from a thread on TTORA that listed them as a wheel that fit over the 231's. That thread is linked on the first page of this thread in the wheel section.

That being said, I have not seen any other source that verifies that info. You might give Wheeler's a call and see if they can confirm.
 
Glad we're cool. Anyways yea I gave wheelers a call and they confirmed they fit. 4 boxes showed up at my door today. Wheelers Type b's. Thanks for your info BigFishAllDay
 
Brake Pad FYI:

There is another option for 231mm pads available in the US:

Toyota P/N 04465-AZ001-TM

This "Ceramic Brake Pad Kit" includes pads AND shims and retails for $56.
This is less than the $76 you'll pay for pads only, if ordered as 04465-35290
 
Big FishAllDay, Fantastic POST!! ....... and c) cook it in a cast skillet with oil and corn meal..... sorry, memories from childhood!

Thanks for the compliments, Poleclimber. I'm glad you found the write-up useful. That sounds like a good recipe for Pike, too. I've only eaten one, but we had a few too many beers in us @ the time so we just cleaned the fish and tossed it on a BBQ grille... It tasted horrible.

Brake Pad FYI:

There is another option for 231mm pads available in the US:

Toyota P/N 04465-AZ001-TM

This "Ceramic Brake Pad Kit" includes pads AND shims and retails for $56.
This is less than the $76 you'll pay for pads only, if ordered as 04465-35290

GREAT info, Socco. I wish I'd known about that when I did my upgrade. I'll update the first post w/this info for future readers.
 
I recently performed this upgrade on another 4Runner in our family, but this time around I went with a setup from AutoZone rather than an OEM/NAPA setup. This decision was based primarily on cost savings. So far the NAPA setup has been performing flawlessly. If any problems arise, I will be sure to post details.

I thought I'd add some pics of the AutoZone setup for future reference.

The total cost of the AutoZone setup was $364.80.

Here we go again....

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Calipers (These included the pins & anti-rattle springs)... $76.99 + $40 core charge, each.

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Rotors... the castings were pretty clean. $53.99 each.

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Pads... Notice, NO chamfered edges. $59.99 for the set, and they included a set of anti-rattle springs. If I had it to do again I'd have used OEM pads for $56 (Toyota P/N 04465-AZ001-TM, posted by Socco a few posts above).

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Like I did on my last install, I used both sets of anti-rattle springs since I had them available.

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All done...

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They fit like a glove under Factory 5-Stars! :guitar2:

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First of all, thank you BFAD for another great write-up. Extremely informative! I've recently been pricing all the needed parts from Advance and my local dealership. I originally priced the seperate OEM pads and shims, but went back after I saw Socco's post regarding the pads that included shims. FWIW the counter guy told me that these are the pads that the dealership provides when they offer a "brake special" and he didn't recommend buying them. A service technician happened to be waiting for parts at the time and joined in the conversation. He said the ceramic pads caused the rotors to wear out prematurely and he wouldn't install them on his vehicles. Not sure if they were feeding me a line of crap, but it did get me thinking about spending the extra money up front. What do guys think? I'm purchasing the parts early next week for the install the following weekend.
 
A service technician happened to be waiting for parts at the time and joined in the conversation. He said the ceramic pads caused the rotors to wear out prematurely and he wouldn't install them on his vehicles.

For our application this is going to be a non-issue IMO. Consider the following:

- The Tundra brakes were made to stop a vehicle that is heavier and has more towing capacity
- The Tundra rotors are ~40% thicker than ours and could probably be resurfaced multiple times with no noticeable difference on a T4R


I am generally a fan of ceramic pads due to the lower amount of brake dust they generate.
 
When I was under my truck doing the anti rust job, (pics on my album and thread) I pulled off the wheels and checked the brakes. It appears that the previous owner just did a bunch of work on the front, as the calipers/rotors/pads all appear to be new. Damn! I won't be able to justify the expense until maybe next year, in all conscience (my wifes').
Oh well, I won't be towing again till next spring anyways....

Awesome post!
 
The factory spare doesn't clear the 231mm Tundra calipers, so I've been on the hunt for a suitable replacement for the spare tire on my Wife's 4Runner. If my Wife gets a flat, I don't want her to have to change two tires (move the rear tire to the front, and put the spare on the rear).

I found a 4th Gen 6-spoke wheel for sale on Craigslist, with a fresh 265/65r17 on it. It was under a 4th Gen that got totalled, and the guy only wanted $40 for it. I figured I'd go by and check it out to see if it would fit.

After installing it on the rig, I checked all the tolerances. These wheels clear the 231mm calipers by about 1 MM!!! That's it. Without spacers. It's as tight a clearance as I've ever seen, but they do fit. The 265/65 cleared the UCA by about 1/4" @ ride height, and a little more w/articulation. Lock to lock the setup clears everything else (frame, inner fenders, etc). The rear is, of course, no problem.

I used a tire size calculator (Tire Size Calc Link) to compare a 265/65r17 to a 265/70r16, and they are within 1% of each other in terms of size. I expect this to work perfectly as a spare w/the 231mm Tundra brake setup and stock size tires.

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FYI...

If you have an Advance Auto nearby and order everything online with the discount code P20, you can get the total price down to IIRC about $280 after returning the cores. Thats here in Lansing anyway, prices may fluctuate regionally.
 
...

After installing it on the rig, I checked all the tolerances. These wheels clear the 231mm calipers by about 1 MM!!! That's it. Without spacers. It's as tight a clearance as I've ever seen, but they do fit. ....

So, I suppose this thread would be a good place to ask a discussion question regarding wheel and caliper clearance.

What is an acceptable level of clearance? Is 1mm sufficient? Or are we typically looking to hit a certain level? 10mm? 1/4"?

Or is there no rule of thumb and "if it clears, it clears" mentality ok?
 
I ended up with the OEM pads that Socco recommended and calipers, rotors, and brake hoses from Advance. I spent just over $250 for eveything. I'm not sure if it's still good, but I used the Advance promo code "VISA" and got $30 off of every $75. Grouped the parts, cleaners, and fluid together and was able to use the promo 4 times for $120 off. One word of caution though.........I installed them less than two weeks ago and they are already rusting; both the calipers and the rotors. :shrug: Wishing I had taken the time to paint them!
 
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So, I suppose this thread would be a good place to ask a discussion question regarding wheel and caliper clearance.

What is an acceptable level of clearance? Is 1mm sufficient? Or are we typically looking to hit a certain level? 10mm? 1/4"?

Or is there no rule of thumb and "if it clears, it clears" mentality ok?

My opinion is that "if it clears, it clears". Neither the wheel nor the caliper is going to flex or move once installed and torqued down. I've seen many late model cars (BMW's, Mercedes, etc) that have very tight clearances between the wheels and the brake calipers.

The wheels on my '01 (the original install in this write-up) only clear by about 1/8" and I've never had a problem w/them.

The only potential issue in my mind would be mud. If the clearance between the wheel and caliper was really tight and some mud got in there, it might make some noise, but the shearing force of the wheel spoke against the caliper would quickly remove any particles causing interference.
 

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