Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors

Others here most likely have a better understanding of brakes than I do, but You might try giving them a squirt with the hose to try to blow out any dust that might be trapped. Did you go through the bedding process? BFAD has a link of the process in the first post and what the purpose of it is.
 
I'm no expert on brakes, but you could try installing anti-rattle clips ($5) as well as cleaning off the rotors with brake cleaner. Re-applying grease may help as well. But like I said I'm yet to do this myself, but I did buy all three items I just mentioned since brake noises bother me.
 
I just completed this upgrade over the weekend on my '98 4Runner. It went fairly smooth. Even though I would consider myself to be pretty experienced at DIY, it still took me about 4 hours. Better tools in some cases would have helped :) Some things of note:

1) I only broke one thing during the upgrade, the bolt that secures the brake line and abs line bracket was pretty rusty. Sheered off the head of the bolt.

2) When I test fit the tundra rotor on the passenger side, everything spun flawlessly. The driver side, however, I had to grind down the center part of the dust shield.

3) My rotors were rusted to the hub... BAD. The tapping procedure described here did not work. Luckily I was expecting this (because I failed to remove them the last time I replaced pads) and I had bought a 3-arm puller from Harbor Freight for $18 fully-expecting to need it. I had to tighten it down pretty good before they finally popped off. Or maybe "rocketed" is a better verb :)

All-in-all brake feel is much better, and definitely have more braking power. NO MORE VIBRATION! I was, however, expecting my brake pedal to feel much more firm. It is no softer than before, but even after bleeding the brakes and running through the bed-in procedure my pedal is still somewhat "mushy". Feels nothing like my dad's 2002 4Runner. I'm thinking there must be something else in my brake system that needs attention.

I have some 16" Moto Metal 951 wheels and they clear the 231mm rotors with room to spare.

Thanks for the awesome write-up!
 
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Low speed brake noise can be caused by the type of compound. Most race cars will do this until the brakes are hot.
 
BFAD, you can add Level 8 Trackers to your list of wheels that clear 231mm with plenty of room. They are 16x8.5 with 4.5" BS.

level-8-wheels-tracker-black.jpg
 
my pedal is still somewhat "mushy". Feels nothing like my dad's 2002 4Runner.

I think it because of two shims in this set and shape of shim near pad. If You remove the second shim (near pad, i don't recommend to it, it's just for information), pedal will be harder.
 
Can anyone confirm if the 16" FJC Trail Teams wheels (part #ptr20-35080)!will fit with the 231 TBU?

I searched all 38 pages of his thread and found where [MENTION=93961]CaptainGiggity[/MENTION] asked once before and [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] replied with a "maybe since other FJ wheels fit". But, I believe all other FJ wheels are 17".

I have a opportunity to buy a set of these wheels and need confirmation that they'll fit before I do.
 

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I'm really interested to see if those will fit too. Any chance you could test it before buying?
 
My plan is just to buy one, test fit it and return. Easy peasy. They supposedly fit under the base model 15 in steel wheels but nobody can confirm that for me. Just have to test it out!
 
Thought I'd post this since everyone is so scared to grind their wheels.

Really wasn't hard, just used a 4 1/2 angle grinder and took off the guard. A smaller one would be even better.

Did take a bit of time since mine was low powered and cheap. But did work. This was the first rim I did, the second went quicker since I figured out where exactly I needed to grind.

Sure beats having to buy new rims! You can't even tell from the outside that they are grinded.
 

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Thought I'd post this since everyone is so scared to grind their wheels.

Really wasn't hard, just used a 4 1/2 angle grinder and took off the guard. A smaller one would be even better.

Did take a bit of time since mine was low powered and cheap. But did work. This was the first rim I did, the second went quicker since I figured out where exactly I needed to grind.

Sure beats having to buy new rims! You can't even tell from the outside that they are grinded.

How much did you have to grind off?
 
There's an edge on the rims that causes the issue. At the high point, maybe 1/4 inch. The rest of the area is just to smooth it out a bit.

The rims are aluminum so it comes off pretty easy.
 
Need help to determine best parts

I'd like to do the upgrade but want to make sure I am getting the right parts. I'd appreciate any feedback on what you all think of these parts below. Advanced Auto parts has a coupon code that is only good for 2 more days, so I appreciate the quick feedback.

the code (WD514) is good for $50 off $125 purchase if anyone else wants to use it.

These are the parts I found by searching for 2005 Tundra V8:

Left Caliper

Right Caliper

Rotors

Pads


So if I split the order into 1 caliper and 1 rotor I'm basically paying $75 for the caliper (after return of core) and getting the rotor for free.

So my question is will these be a good combo? I just don't want to order the wrong parts or brands more importantly.

I'm pretty sure the calipers don't matter as per brand (and I am going to paint them so I am not worried about the finish).

But what about the rotors and the pads?

Do I really need to go OEM on the rotors and pads for the extra money? I can get the OEM stuff the OP used for:

43512-0c011 rotors for $60 each (compared to AAP discount price of basically free)

04465-35290 pads $65

04945-35120 shim kit $40

The AAP pads are about half the price of the OEM pads and shim kit.

Plus if I order my B&M 70268 transmission cooler with the pads, I'm basically paying $75 for the cooler and the pads are free!

So what do you all think?

Thanks guys!
 
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Advanced Auto parts has a coupon code that is only good for 2 more days, so I appreciate the quick feedback.

So my question is will these be a good combo? I just don't want to order the wrong parts or brands more importantly.

I'm pretty sure the calipers don't matter as per brand (and I am going to paint them so I am not worried about the finish).

Never heard of the brand you're using. Must be an east coast thing. A lot of the guys are using Brembo Blanks for rotors or something similar in quality. Some are using the Powerstop package from Amazon or Auto Anything.

Power Stop Evolution Caliper Brake Kit - Free Shipping on Z23 Powerstop Evolution Brake Kit W/ Red Calipers

With these 4runners. you want to get OEM or as close to OEM as possible in quality. If not you may find yourself doing the job over again or the product just doesn't last as long and you're spending the money you saved sooner than you expected.

Doesn't answer your question I know. Check the internet for reviews on those products and do a search in the forum to see if anyone has any feedback. Good Luck. Don't rush...all these places have sales all the time.

EDIT: The calipers would be the main component I would want as close to OEM as possible. You don't want to ever have to change the calipers.
 
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Thanks for the input. I don't trailer very much at (couple times a year at best) so I'm basically doing this because I need to replace pads and rotors anyway soon, so figured if I could do it cheap, why not upgrade to the Tundra setup.

I saw the powerstop package, but that's too much money for me right now. If I did that and the B&M trans cooler I'd be around $475.

If I can get away with using these parts from Advanced Auto I'd be at about $250 for everything. (and use the $225 savings to get OEM LBJ, which I think I might need as well soon)

Your right though, I don't want to get junk stuff, that's why I am hoping someone can chime in on these brands or at least recommend something that Advanced Auto carries.

Thanks!
 
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Thought I'd post this since everyone is so scared to grind their wheels.

Really wasn't hard, just used a 4 1/2 angle grinder and took off the guard. A smaller one would be even better.

Did take a bit of time since mine was low powered and cheap. But did work. This was the first rim I did, the second went quicker since I figured out where exactly I needed to grind.

Sure beats having to buy new rims! You can't even tell from the outside that they are grinded.

I see you did the first one and you mentioned doing the second one...but did you do all four of them? If not—how do you rotate your tires? Just curious.
 

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