Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors

[jeremyc74]

No, I am hesitant to try them cause it just doesn't make sense that this many pair of brake pads and rotors would be bad. I have put these pads and rotors on many different cars and never had this issue. It leads me to believe it is an issue with something related to the vehicle itself.

You put new brake pads on, it's good for a week, and then starts again. You put another set of brake pads on, and you get the same thing. The problem is your pads. Buy a set of OEM pads, or some of the better Japanese brands and try those. The ONLY thing that makes sense here are the pads. There's nothing else involved that would make the vibration stop when a new set of pads is installed (assuming you're getting everything torqued back down properly). The stuff they're selling at most of the auto parts places these days is Chinese junk, and even when you think you're buying a different brand it's all the same crap from the same factory, just in a different box.

 

[AZBub]

30k on Oreilleys cheap pads, no vibration, no wobble, works like it should. doubt it's the pads.

 

[jeremyc74]

30k on Oreilleys cheap pads, no vibration, no wobble, works like it should. doubt it's the pads.

So what else could it possibly be?!

 

[97Run-Man]

You put new brake pads on, it's good for a week, and then starts again. You put another set of brake pads on, and you get the same thing. The problem is your pads. Buy a set of OEM pads, or some of the better Japanese brands and try those. The ONLY thing that makes sense here are the pads. There's nothing else involved that would make the vibration stop when a new set of pads is installed (assuming you're getting everything torqued back down properly). The stuff they're selling at most of the auto parts places these days is Chinese junk, and even when you think you're buying a different brand it's all the same crap from the same factory, just in a different box.

I don't ever swap the pads and rotors separately, but to my knowledge isn't it the rotor that would cause vibration not the pads?
I'll try swapping just them but if that doesn't work do you have another suggestion?
What torque specs are you using? maybe I'm not going tight enough?

 

[HiLife]

I tried searching for it but can't find the info I need.
Has anyone unbolted the 2 halfs of the 231 WL's, cleaned them out, rebuild them and bolted them back together?
I'm looking for tips, trying to determine if it's worth the effort and if there are any surprises when trying to bolt them back together. Any input would be great thanks.

 

[jeremyc74]

I don't ever swap the pads and rotors separately, but to my knowledge isn't it the rotor that would cause vibration not the pads?
I'll try swapping just them but if that doesn't work do you have another suggestion?
What torque specs are you using? maybe I'm not going tight enough?

Generally what happens with the lower quality pads is they leave deposits on the rotors, and that makes it feel like the rotors are warped. Over the years I've found that parking them with the brakes really hot can contribute to this. Do you live at the base of a mountain by any chance?

When the rotors get the deposits on them, sometimes you can fix the problem by getting up to freeway speed, and then really stomping on the brakes a couple of times. This will heat them back up and release the deposits...sometimes.

 

[97Run-Man]

Generally what happens with the lower quality pads is they leave deposits on the rotors, and that makes it feel like the rotors are warped. Over the years I've found that parking them with the brakes really hot can contribute to this. Do you live at the base of a mountain by any chance?

When the rotors get the deposits on them, sometimes you can fix the problem by getting up to freeway speed, and then really stomping on the brakes a couple of times. This will heat them back up and release the deposits...sometimes.

No I do not live on or near a mountain. I live outside Atlanta.
I have done something similar to this not a lot of success.

I am wondering though could the calipers be part of the issue or maybe the master cylinder seeing as how these are quite a bit larger then what it was designed for.

 

[jeremyc74]

No I do not live on or near a mountain. I live outside Atlanta.
I have done something similar to this not a lot of success.

I am wondering though could the calipers be part of the issue or maybe the master cylinder seeing as how these are quite a bit larger then what it was designed for.

I can't imagine how it could be anything other than the pads, considering that the symptoms go away for a while when you replace them. There are a lot of us running the bigger calipers with no issues at all so I don't think the mismatch between the master and caliper is an issue.

That's assuming the calipers are in good working order of course. My 2nd gen would do some REALLY crazy shit when it had a frozen caliper on one side.

 

[97Run-Man]

I can't imagine how it could be anything other than the pads, considering that the symptoms go away for a while when you replace them. There are a lot of us running the bigger calipers with no issues at all so I don't think the mismatch between the master and caliper is an issue.

That's assuming the calipers are in good working order of course. My 2nd gen would do some REALLY crazy shit when it had a frozen caliper on one side.

So what pads and rotors do you suggest I try out next to really get performance. The pads and rotors I have now really do stop well and I would like to keep that. I know the obvious suggestion of OEM but what parts store options are there and what "higher end" parts options are there? I'd like to keep them at the cost of OEM parts.

 

[jeremyc74]

So what pads and rotors do you suggest I try out next to really get performance. The pads and rotors I have now really do stop well and I would like to keep that. I know the obvious suggestion of OEM but what parts store options are there and what "higher end" parts options are there? I'd like to keep them at the cost of OEM parts.

To be perfectly honest with you I don't trust brakes from any local parts store. The problem is everyone is shopping the parts stores based on price, and it's become a race to the bottom. They're ALL selling Chinese parts now, and I've had horrible luck with them. I put three alternators from Auto Zone (under warranty) on my RV in less than 10k miles, and right now it needs another one. One of my Jeeps used to go through an Advance starter about every 3 months. I kept taking it back, and they kept giving me another one. :

The OEM rotors are about as cheap as the parts stores if you buy them online (less than $50 each). I'm using Akebono pads on mine, and they're very good. They didn't stop as well as I expected at first, but once they were properly bedded in they're excellent. You can get those on Amazon for reasonable money.

 

[MONTYMTB]

The OEM rotors are about as cheap as the parts stores if you buy them online (less than $50 each).

Where are you finding the OEM rotors for less than $50? Cheapest I've seen is around $64.

 

[Brentif]

Is there anyone in the Long Beach/South Bay/Orange County CA that has done the swap that would be willing to let me test fit one of my wheels? I had to shave the seam on my stock brake caliper to accommodate the weights on my wheels. I highly doubt anyone is running the same wheels with the Tundra brake upgrade, since they have been out of production for about ten years. But just in case they are Axis Regulators, 16x9, 0 offset (i think).

Thanks!

 

[jeremyc74]

Where are you finding the OEM rotors for less than $50? Cheapest I've seen is around $64.

I was thinking they were $47 when I bought them, but they're up to $59 now. I looked at so many I may have them mixed up. Either way they're not much more expensive than name brand aftermarket stuff.

https://parts.olathetoyota.com/login.html

 

[SmogSUX]

Did any of your OEM rotors' cooling vanes look like this:

Both of the rotors I received from a dealership look to have misaligned casting done for about 1/4-1/3 of the cooling vanes. I had them check their stock and they said all of them look like that for a portion of the rotor...not sure if they got an entire bad batch or what..I'd still like to stick with OEM over aftermarket. You can see OP's comparison and it shows that OEM is a much cleaner cast...that or drop 2x the price for some PowerSlots =/

 

[JBurt]

Well that's reassuring...

 

[jstim]

Two questions for you guys.

Does the SCS SR8 wheel clear the 13WL calipers?

Has anyone used the Powerstop kit? The one that includes the calipers, pads and rotors. Its 347, as opposed to the 5 and change it would be to buy it all individually.

 

[BrandonF]

Well this happened…



I did a couple hard stops to test my steering tightness after adjusting my steering rack guide. On the final stop, I hear a big bang from the front passenger corner. I get out to find chunks of brake rotor sitting at the bottom of the wheel. This was an OEM toyota tundra 231mm rotor that I just installed last summer...

 

[cashmoney]

But but but. OEM never fails and is superior to everything else on the market.

 

[BrandonF]

But but but. OEM never fails and is superior to everything else on the market.

OEM generally is superior to other options on the market. Good try at sarcasm though...

 

[cashmoney]

I've found the opposite to be true but whatever makes you happy.