Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors

I had 2 sets of split 3s! I called Wheelers off road, who stock 1/4" spacers and talked to the tech support guy. He said if I'm running the stock rims, which are hub centric, i'll loose hub contact with the 1/4" spacer, therefore, he said they aren't suited but the 1.25" would be the way to go. I'm not crazy about using spacers due to the documented failures here, so bit the bullet as acquired 2 sets, refinished/painted them and sold my split 3s. It took time but I came out almost even. I'm running Sequoia 17 in the winter and LTD 16 in the summer. I've posted pics in this thread. Good luck!

I'm no expert on wheels but I think the guy has got it right. When stock, the hub fits nicely in the rim and keeps it from moving around at all. Once you add a spacer and the hub no longer contacts the wheel, it then depends on the lugs to keep it from slipping around. For our 4Runners that often see off-road use, I'd be wary of damaging the lugs or the spacer.

I do have a set of spacers in the back but thats if/when I get a flat since my spare does not clear the calipers. One of these days I need to grind the rear wheels too so I can rotate my tires again.
 
Hi folks, I was doing the tundra brake upgrade today and I sort of got into a bind. The 4runner brake lines does not screw into the 13WL calipers. It goes in a quarter then it's tight, I don't want to force it or I may ruin the treading on the brake lines and the calipers too. I also tried it on the other caliper and I got the same result. I got the calipers from Napa auto. Any advice on what to do will be appreciated.
 
Is there some type of paint on the calipers? I could see one side being drilled wrong but not both. Not to mention they are remand meaning they came off of a tundra so the threads should be the right size. Perhaps they gave you two wrong calipers.
 
I don't like wheel spacers. If they are not approved for drag racing.......

Thats probably the dumbest thing I've heard today. Drag racing is a completely different thing than regular driving. Thousands of people run spacers with no issues. Tons on this website alone. I ran them on my g37s and never had a failure in all of the races or auto crossing I did with it. I've never understood why people don't like spacers. Get the right ones and they work fine.
 
Hi folks, I was doing the tundra brake upgrade today and I sort of got into a bind. The 4runner brake lines does not screw into the 13WL calipers. It goes in a quarter then it's tight, I don't want to force it or I may ruin the treading on the brake lines and the calipers too. I also tried it on the other caliper and I got the same result. I got the calipers from Napa auto. Any advice on what to do will be appreciated.

They should fit with no issues. Something is wrong with either your brake line or caliper.

Pull the same size bolt from the engine bay and thread in into the caliper to get it started. I bet there's paint or something stuck in the threading. You are smart to not force the brake lines, don't get frustrated and do something you'll regret!
 
Is there some type of paint on the calipers? I could see one side being drilled wrong but not both. Not to mention they are remand meaning they came off of a tundra so the threads should be the right size. Perhaps they gave you two wrong calipers.
The Napa calipers are painted black for rust proofing that's why I choose them. I will go back to Napa and let them know about this and get another set and hope it goes in so I can be done with this.
 
They should fit with no issues. Something is wrong with either your brake line or caliper.

Pull the same size bolt from the engine bay and thread in into the caliper to get it started. I bet there's paint or something stuck in the threading. You are smart to not force the brake lines, don't get frustrated and do something you'll regret!
Yes they should fit but mine did not so I'm going back to the Napa store I got it from to let them know about this and get another set. What I did is just put the original calipers back for now.
 
Sorry for bringing this back from the dead but I'm hoping someone can help me out. I'm wondering if anyone can verify that these wheels will work? The current list of working wheels says that the 17" 8069 from Pro-Comp will work but I can not find a 17" 8069. I'm hoping that this is the wheel that is referenced. Though the backspacing is 4.75 instead of 4....
 
I was wondering if anyone has an opinion or experience with the brembo rotor and pad kit I see on eBay?
 
My calipers came with no paint and did not want to thread with fingers. I actually disconnected the hard line fully from the truck to ensure it wasn't just the threads giving me shit.

I got it threaded a full rotation, it looked straight. I ran a tap through with no resistance, I then used a flare wrench to gently tighten it down. The first 2-3 rotations were gummed up feeling, and then it freed up. I did the last turns all my finger.

BOTH calipers did this to me. As well as the caliper mounting threads themselves. I ran a tap through the flange and a dye over the bolts. I was showing 70-80 ft lb's of resistance for like 1/3 of the threads on the bolt? I thought wtf and repeated the thread cleaning. That was the biggest hurdle of my swap.

Otherwise, it's not rocket surgery. Bled my brakes with one pedal compression versus pumping them up and 2 cycles got me a nice pedal feel. It felt a touch soft initially, second time through I got a few bubbles at the drivers front. Good to go now, nice pedal feel and great stopping power.

I used a kit that I got for $94 with zinc slotted/drilled rotors and ceramic pads from Powerstop. Was on a special buy kinda thing, but the rotors look like excellent quality. Chamfered holes, clean castings, quiet operation and won't rust with the zinc coating. :nod:
 
My calipers came with no paint and did not want to thread with fingers. I actually disconnected the hard line fully from the truck to ensure it wasn't just the threads giving me shit.

I got it threaded a full rotation, it looked straight. I ran a tap through with no resistance, I then used a flare wrench to gently tighten it down. The first 2-3 rotations were gummed up feeling, and then it freed up. I did the last turns all my finger.

BOTH calipers did this to me. As well as the caliper mounting threads themselves. I ran a tap through the flange and a dye over the bolts. I was showing 70-80 ft lb's of resistance for like 1/3 of the threads on the bolt? I thought wtf and repeated the thread cleaning. That was the biggest hurdle of my swap.

Otherwise, it's not rocket surgery. Bled my brakes with one pedal compression versus pumping them up and 2 cycles got me a nice pedal feel. It felt a touch soft initially, second time through I got a few bubbles at the drivers front. Good to go now, nice pedal feel and great stopping power.

I used a kit that I got for $94 with zinc slotted/drilled rotors and ceramic pads from Powerstop. Was on a special buy kinda thing, but the rotors look like excellent quality. Chamfered holes, clean castings, quiet operation and won't rust with the zinc coating. :nod:

Agreed the powerstop rotors and pads are of good quality. Mine are the extreme tow package I got from autozone. You got yours at a much lower price I see. I only did the 1 man brake bleeding method and the method you did too until the bubbles disappeared.
 
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Agreed the powerstop rotors and pads are of good quality. Mine are the extreme tow package I got from autozone. You got yours at a much lower price I see. I only did the 1 man brake bleeding method and the method you did too until the bubbles disappeared.

I bought them because of limited funds. I was pleasantly surprised by the quality for how cheap. That was shipped for free even, lol.

I think people who have a soft pedal or questionable need to simply bleed them again. I installed mine and drove it for a days worth of errands before I bled a second time. It stopped fine, but it felt off.

My pedal now feels very close to stock pedal characteristics, except it stops better :)
 
I bought the entire setup through Rockauto. Got their "Truck and towing package". Came with red powder coated calipers, slotted and drilled rotors, and large carbon/ceramic pads. Everything was better than expected. Bolted right up (had to trim dust shields), bled and bedded the brakes. Now this thing STOPS like it has truck brakes on it. I'm very pleased. Rockauto was a great deal. I just need to return my calipers and get my core charge back. I think my total cost was around $315.

Best upgrade besides a new suspension and tires.
 
I bought my total 231 TBU from rockauto as well. I ordered it around lunch time Monday and it was at my door lunchtime Tuesday! The next night I ordered the hardware for the parking brake which is shipping from somewhere else so I wont get it until Monday. Waiting until then to do it all at once. There is a 5% discount from retailmenot so my total will be about 260 or 280 after my core return.

All parts were powerstop.
 
I still have 2 of these anti rattle clips for my calipers. Is it okay to put on the other end of the calipers for a total of 2 each side. I see in pics here that only 1 is installed per caliper.
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I still have 2 of these anti rattle clips for my calipers. Is it okay to put on the other end of the calipers for a total of 2 each side. I see in pics here that only 1 is installed per caliper.

I looked at the instruction from Toyota for my pads for the anti-rattle clips and it instructs to put two on, so I did. When I had just one on the opposite side of the pad was still wanting to move around so it made sense. They are dirt cheap so I had nothing to lose.

Also, my slight vibration is gone. I had the tire off and on one side I found a pad imprint on my rotor... I must have stopped too much while bedding the brakes. But it's gone now, eventually the friction took off the residue.
 

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