Have KDSS? Check this out!

I would say I'm glad I don't live in the rust belt but apparently it's expanding.... I think 3 winters now CO has used more corrosive stuff in the winter, I'm definitely trying to wash my frame/underbody off very frequently but I might also just go ahead and do the woolwax at some point so that my 98's near pristine frame remains near pristine. I actually found the most amount of rust I've seen on the whole thing today up on the top of the spare wheel, there's actually a slight bit of scale, everything else is the lightest of pitting or the factory coating. I hope you can keep your KDSS module from kicking the can.
 
Thank you for the replies. Anyone else have a vote? I guess if I add some material there I might be inviting more corrosion to happen underneath the filler. I'm glad I took pics because I can see that I need to do some more cleaning under the bracket in the back of the accumulator. I have wheel cleaner and assume that would do a good job in cleaning up the aluminum before I coat it. I am thinking it would be best to coat the lines in POR15 before I do that. I don't want anything on them that might cause it to not adhere.
 
And I know some of you live where they don't salt the roads but I still urge you to just take off those 2 12mm bolts and pull that cover to clean and inspect! I wish I would have known sooner. Looking at POR15, I'm thinking now that I can also apply it to the aluminum before coating in WoolWax. Not sure how to proceed here. Until I get this done, my 4R will stay parked! It's 20 degrees here today so I plan on tackling it tomorrow. Thanks again for all the advice!
 
Thanks for this. It's been on the list of things to check for awhile and glad I did this weekend. The shield was full of mud even tho I try to spray it with the hose when I wash. The lines and aluminum had started to have a bit of corrosion on them. More than I would have expected for my 2018. I wire brushed it to clean it up and sprayed a nice coat of Fluid Film on it as well as the rest of the frame.

In regards to yours, I'm not quite sure what you can do for that at this point except fluid film it to attempt any further corrosion. I'd still be driving it, though. No sense parking it for a swaybar. If it goes, it goes. It may tomorrow, it may never.
 
Thanks Pedro, glad you got yours cleaned up! It's only parked until I get the KDSS coated and protected from further damage. I think I might just POR15 the whole thing before coating with WoolWax. I'm getting ready to head out and tackle that now.
 
Thanks for the heads up on this. I just bought a '22 ORP in August. I will be sure to coat mine when I tackle the frame here shortly.
 
Moved from Ohio to Arizona nearly two years ago… I feel for you! The salt is killer, did not mind leaving it behind. I would hesitate to apply an epoxy patching for the exact reason you cite. If it ever develops a seam it’ll hold salt, and you won’t know it until it’s too late.
 
You should fabricate a shield thing on front side to help keep all the snow/tire spray from flinging into the opening. It has been on my eventual to do list after seeing how packed it gets with mud. Toyota should have designed that skid better.
 
Whoa that's gnarly. I should pop the cover off of mine, I noticed things were corroded there (just like everything else) last time I was doing some work but I just gave it a squirt of fluid film and moved on...

Also, I wouldn't try to add any coatings to that, I do think you're just inviting trouble for corrosion under whatever you put on there. What did you use to clean it up?
 
Dianna said:
Well the lines look pretty good, I was pleasantly surprised, but I'm pretty horrified at how much aluminum is missing from the module where that front line enters. I would like to add some material there, what do you suggest? Looks like JB Weld Water Weld epoxy putty might work pretty well.
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This looks like my XREAS connectors, the corrosion was so bad I no longer had anything resembling a fastener to get a flare wrench on. This made me say screw it and use bolt cutters rather than try to salvage each corner for resale.

I am sort of shocked how bad the corrosion is. This comes from stupid environmentally friendly paint that is low VOC and frankly is garbage when it comes to long term corrosion protection and or eliminating filiform attack. That and likely a lack of metal (chrome) based conversion coating and you get what we have here.

You guys not living in the rust belt have it easy. Ive wrenched on cars from the rust belt that were over 20 years old that had less rust by far that the 4 runner. I also have fluid film and full underbody coating, seems to have made no real difference.
 
Grug556 said:
This looks like my XREAS connectors, the corrosion was so bad I no longer had anything resembling a fastener to get a flare wrench on. This made me say screw it and use bolt cutters rather than try to salvage each corner for resale.

I am sort of shocked how bad the corrosion is. This comes from stupid environmentally friendly paint that is low VOC and frankly is garbage when it comes to long term corrosion protection and or eliminating filiform attack. That and likely a lack of metal (chrome) based conversion coating and you get what we have here.

You guys not living in the rust belt have it easy. Ive wrenched on cars from the rust belt that were over 20 years old that had less rust by far that the 4 runner. I also have fluid film and full underbody coating, seems to have made no real difference.
Click to expand...

It's pretty amazing what it does to your vehicle. My dad bought a 1997 wrangler back in 2006. By 2008 it was completely rotted out to the point of the belly pan falling out and we had to do a full frame off resto on it. Pickup trucks with no bedsides after 10-15 years. It literally totals your vehicle unless you are on top of it from day one and as you said that still sometimes doesn't work. I cringe every time it's going to snow and I see the brine stripes going down the road. Then the days after is just driving in a beach of salt.
 
Pedro367 said:
It's pretty amazing what it does to your vehicle. My dad bought a 1997 wrangler back in 2006. By 2008 it was completely rotted out to the point of the belly pan falling out and we had to do a full frame off resto on it. Pickup trucks with no bedsides after 10-15 years. It literally totals your vehicle unless you are on top of it from day one and as you said that still sometimes doesn't work. I cringe every time it's going to snow and I see the brine stripes going down the road. Then the days after is just driving in a beach of salt.
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Scotty Kilmer is a big proponent of just washing your frame off a lot living in the rust belt. Getting a car wash sub at some place with a place that does undercarriage wash might pay for itself. At the very least hosing it off good (I even have some soap that claims to get road salts off your frame) would help too.
 
Rushthezeppelin said:
Scotty Kilmer is a big proponent of just washing your frame off a lot living in the rust belt. Getting a car wash sub at some place with a place that does undercarriage wash might pay for itself. At the very least hosing it off good (I even have some soap that claims to get road salts off your frame) would help too.
Click to expand...

The problem is that there is a cover over this that prevents the salt from getting washed off without actually removing the cover, no amount of undercarriage washing would have changed what I uncovered in that picture, unfortunately.
 
Well, I'll add my experience to this thread, with my 2013 4R TE.

I had to do an entire lift kit swap, due to rust breaking UCA's, coils. Had a shop install a Dobinsons setup and Treaty Oak KDSS spacer kit. Well, they never opened the valves to free flow the system.

I get home and see fluid dripping from the accumulator. After a few days spraying the shit out of the cover plate bolts, I gave up and drilled them out. I expected the worst and that's what I saw.

Aluminum has corroded from dirt and salt sitting on it, despite my spraying that area with water over several years.

I'm waiting on a new part to arrive from Japan ($593). My hope is to spray the lines, remove the fluid from the drain valve, remove the lines, carefully, and install the new part. Then I need to find a dealer to recharge it.

Anyone know of one in Massachusetts or New England area?

-Art
 

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Holy crap that looks bad!

Any dealer can recharge the system, it's hoping a tech knows how to do it. You can also check Lexus dealers as the GX has the KDSS system too. Recharging and pressurizing the system requires a special service tool that the dealer may have to bring in.
 
So, to remove all the fluid, what's the procedure? I've checked several threads without a clear answer.

I'm thinking just connect to the H valve, undo both shutter valves a bit and press the H valve to a hose.

Or, just undo the bleed screw and let it come out.

???
 
Service manual says remove fluid through bleeder, then remove the lines before removing the accumulator. I don't think there's enough play in the setup to just pull out and replace the accumulator, without removing lines.

Anyone have any experience with this?
 
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