Have KDSS? Check this out!

[FloridaUnderground]

I guess happy I live in Florida for once and happy I don't have KDSS?:shocked:

 

[swampy_swimmer]

Thaks

 

[CutthroatSlam]

I guess happy I live in Florida for once and happy I don't have KDSS?:shocked:

Living out west is best. Even though we get snow in Montana. They only treat the main highways and only the worst sections. Only the most neglected cars show rust and that’s past 20 years age.

 

[NB005]

I bought a 2011 TE recently as well (1st 4R ever) and did not know anything about the KDSS. Driving and the KDSS light came on so I did some checking and here I am....in the same boat and looks just as bad. I think there was probably some leaking of the fluid in the past as I could smell it. The cover was caked in mud and dirt and had to heat and bolt extract the bolts to get them off. I assume that it was never taken off at all.

Anyways, things seem to be stable and I don't see any more leaking so Im leaving it as is, although the light is on.

I might take it into a shop and see what they can do about it, if anything. Was searching and the aluminum part itself was $3k+.

It seems to be driving fine, although I don't know what it would feel like if it did not have KDSS.

I called the original owner and they said they never touched it, light has been on and they never did anything about it as it "drove fine". I also called the dealership to see if it was ever inspected and was told they don't inspect it. Was informed that to replace could be in area of $9k but they have heard people replacing/deleting KDSS with normal suspension for $3kish

Look at options at this point...

Well, I'll add my experience to this thread, with my 2013 4R TE.

I had to do an entire lift kit swap, due to rust breaking UCA's, coils. Had a shop install a Dobinsons setup and Treaty Oak KDSS spacer kit. Well, they never opened the valves to free flow the system.

I get home and see fluid dripping from the accumulator. After a few days spraying the shit out of the cover plate bolts, I gave up and drilled them out. I expected the worst and that's what I saw.

Aluminum has corroded from dirt and salt sitting on it, despite my spraying that area with water over several years.

I'm waiting on a new part to arrive from Japan ($593). My hope is to spray the lines, remove the fluid from the drain valve, remove the lines, carefully, and install the new part. Then I need to find a dealer to recharge it.

Anyone know of one in Massachusetts or New England area?

-Art

 

[arthurm]

So, I purchased the parts (from Japan: accumulator $550, front cylinder $520; from US Toyota dealers: front lines and bolts $240, fluid $133). Paid a dealer, familiar with the system, to replace all and refill $800.

Initially, I had asked to replace just the accumulator. However, since the front cylinder was heavily corroded, it and the lines were added to the job.

Now, you don't say if your problem is only the accumulator or more. If accumulator only, then definitely replace it. You can do the job and send it to a KNOWLEDGEABLE dealer for refill and pressurization.

If your cylinder is shot and the lines, you can also replace those yourself, if not heavily corroded, to save money. Mine were bad and I just didn't have the time so I let the dealer do it.

If you're willing to spend $3K for non-KDSS surgery, I'd just as well replace the system and keep it. It has its benefits and really never fails. Ours (yours and mine) did because we didn't get rid of the crap and it corroded. Once repaired, just spray everything with Fluid Film or similar and check every year. I do that for rust inspection every year so it's easy.

Finally, sounds like you bought this from a dealer. Since they knew the light was on and, apparently, didn't disclose it, then that's fraud. The code probably says pressure lost because of the leak. It must be fixed although it may "drive fine".