Head Gasket symptoms starting to show...

Man, i'm praying that it's just a thermostat problem and that the jiggler valve really is doing this. Otherwise, i'm going to have to rip this sucker open again. PITA. super frustrated at this point and not sure what to do. May step back from this for a while as i'm going on vacation soon.

I don't remember if i checked out the passages when putting the gasket on. I just remember putting the carbon fiber looking side of the gasket downward facing the block and the black side facing up.
 
Pretty sure problem is related to the thermostat. Sometimes they even get stuck. Although has never happened to me, I've heard of people replacing them and finally solving the issue. At least to inspect it, you just need to remove the housing/part were the hose is connected and not the whole pump.
 
Well, i replaced it once with a new one and it had the same issues. I thought i had bought a bad thermo so i put my old one back in and it's still the same problem.

What i didn't do was make sure that the thermo was operating correctly. Need to boil it in a pot like everyone says. Other thing is i don't know where the jiggle valve is currently, up down left right. Need to check this.

i really hope i just have two bad thermostats. I'm doubting it though because i took the thermo out once before and no water came out, though i think the top of the motor had coolant in it.
 
I started doing the head gasket replacement but once off the head was cracked. Been looking locally for a good replacement but none of the local jyards have the passenger side (r) for the 3.4.
Anyways I came across this picture to show the difference is head gaskets. One has the circular hole next to the large square hole and one gasket does not. I'm going to be sure I get them correct when installing them now that I noticed the difference.
I'll be looking at this thread when I get the head back on. Nice photo's and good detail, sorry about your situation and hope it works out well.
Toyota 95 00 Tacoma 4 Runner Tundra 5VZFE Head Gasket THG5V | eBay
 
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2 things. First thing, I just finished my head gasket swap on my 97 and it runs great with no leaks and not even one CEL code... Could not have done it without this forum and thread, so thanks to all that provided info. Second, I wanted to keep it going for anyone else that may be looking for a good source of info on the topic and to put some valuable info in myself.

A few obvious things. Get your heads checked out by a machine shop and cleaned up. Replace any and all seals and gaskets while you are in there (rockauto top gasket set from fel-pro is what I used) Replace your exhaust bolts. Get in touch with a maintenance manual. Online version or preferably a good paper back.

When putting your timing belt back on leave the top middle idler pulley off and install last. Could have saved a few hours knowing this up front. Label EVERYTHING (Ziplocks and Sharpie) and take pictures of your engine bay before ever taking anything off and during each major step in the process. (i.e timing belt covers off) I had some confusion with the routing of the camshaft position sensor since the maintenance manual does a terrible job of illustrating this.

Use OEM replacement parts as much as possible for larger items. i.e. Timing belt kit & water pump. My timing belt was replaced 10,000 miles before starting this job (aftermarket crap belt) and it was already starting to come apart and leave rubber on all the idler pulleys.

Take your time and DON'T RUSH! Good luck.
 
updating my post... the results are in, i did indeed switch my gaskets around and the coolant port was blocked. For all those doing their HG, make sure you put this on correctly before bolting down your head. Unfortunately, i had to find out the hard way. After putting it back together, i sold the car. I know i know, it was a lot of work to go through to end up selling the car. I'll get another, after learning about the options and features, i'll look for a cleaner 99+ model because i like the minor changes in steering wheel, bumper etc. I hate those threads that i read who had the same problem as me but never updated the post with the end result so i am doing so now. It was the switched head gaskets.
 
Damn - glad you at least figured it out.

I was wondering what had happened to you since we both had out HG issues come up at the same time...
 
Sad about the decision to sell it. Good to know that swapping those gaskets will create that much chaos. Didn't happen to me but could have had. Mine is still working fine, no issues at all with codes nor coolant consumption.
 
Thanks for this thread! I cracked the head on my 2000 4Runner and am looking at 5k to get it fixed. Is everyone's 4Runner still trucking along after this repair? I'd hate to spend this kind of coin on my truck to have it happen again in a few years.
 
New to me 1997 4runner, complete coolant leak

Hi everyone. First post, looking to the community ofr ideas on my engine issue.

1997 Runner Limited
294k km's on the engine

10 min into the drive today I noticed a lack of power at the top end. Look down to the instrument cluster and see the temp gauge climbing to the red. I pull off the highway. White smoke at the engine, dissipates after 15min. Coolant empty.

The engine bay has white speckling. Similar to a pot of pasta boiling over and leaving salty/starchy residue.

I'll add pics shortly. Any thoughts?

Thanks!
 
Check for leaking hoses first, then maybe a leakdown test to see if it's going
through the engine. That typically blows while smoke out the exhaust, though.
 
view


Update:

1) Returned to the car after work. Added distilled water to the empty coolant reservoir. After five min, no visual sign of leaks.

2) Started the car with no issues. Engine came up to normal operating temperature. Revs at 1500rpm in park, 800rpm in drive. Single CEL since owning the car a week ago: P0420. Exhaust has a noticeable amount of white smoke.

3) After ten minutes of idling, we detect the leak. A hose under the throttle body has come loose. We reconnect it. Temp at idle holds.

view


4) Attempt to drive the truck home. Five minutes later at slow speed, engine temp needle rockets, engine shuts itself off. New CEL: P0115. Noticed the hose from the engine to the top of the radiator was compressed from by a vacuum.

5) Tow truck. Read forums.

Thanks for reading.
 
Your upper hose sucking flat while driving is odd. Either the rubber hose lost its stiffness or your coolant passages in your heads are plugged and the water pump is pulling a vacuum on your topend.


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Sounds like you leaked a ton of coolant from the engine from that hose coming off which overheated the engine and you now have a blown head gasket.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but you got some major repairs in your future. You can either rebuild this engine or swap in a different one. What year and how many miles on your truck?

These engines are very sensitive to being overheated (even once), especially if you overheat them to the point that they lock up. The temp needle on these trucks is pretty much worthless. By the time it moves, it's practically too late. If it pegged, or even nearly pegged, you WAY overheated it.

Hopefully you can get it sorted out....
 
Sounds like you leaked a ton of coolant from the engine from that hose coming off which overheated the engine and you now have a blown head gasket.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but you got some major repairs in your future. You can either rebuild this engine or swap in a different one. What year and how many miles on your truck?

These engines are very sensitive to being overheated (even once), especially if you overheat them to the point that they lock up. The temp needle on these trucks is pretty much worthless. By the time it moves, it's practically too late. If it pegged, or even nearly pegged, you WAY overheated it.

Hopefully you can get it sorted out....
1997, 295kms original engine and transmission.

Thanks for the straight forward information.

I will investigate the blown head gasket symptoms and report back.

One quick question:
What is the hose that is disconnected in the picture? Is that the throttle body coolant hose?



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I believe that is what it is. It sends hot coolant through the throttle body to keep it from icing up in winter in cold climates.

There are a couple hoses that go to the throttle body. One is a vacuum line and the other is the coolant line. Make sure you do not have them hooked up backwards. A member on here recently did that and hydrolocked his engine.

Keep us posted
 
The two nipples are for coolant in and out and the lowest nipple facing the firewall it vacuum that goes to the intakes injector cavities.


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