Heavy Steering; Won't Return to Center

absalom

New member
Background
  • 2002 SR5 with 240k miles.
  • Previous owner installed 2" body lift and 2" spacer lift.
  • Spacer lift removed and replaced with TRD/LC/Bilsteins.
  • ITE/OTE's replaced.
  • LBJ's replaced.
  • Swaybar links replaced.
  • Steering bushings replaced.
  • Power steering fluid flushed and replaced with ATF.
  • UCA's and UBJ's replaced.
  • Slip joint welded.
  • Steering shaft clamp readjusted.

I've had the truck aligned twice at one shop using top of the line Hunter equipment. I've also had the alignment checked after at a second shop.

Camber:
L -> 0.5 R -> -0.5

Caster:
L -> 2.9 R -> 3.4

Toe:
L -> .03 R -> .02

Symptoms

The truck has heavy steering. With the engine off and the front wheels raised into the air, the wheels require more effort to turn side to side.

The steering will not spring back to center. With 3+ caster, I was expecting to have very centrally focused steering. If I aim the wheel to the right, it will continue turning right until the direction is changed manually. Same applies to the left.

The front wheels appear to have positive camber when viewed from the front. The front tires bulge more on the outside of the tire than on the inside.

The truck wanders and requires many micro adjustments while driving. At freeway speeds, the steering requires only minute inputs to make any direction changes. This makes driving very exhausting.

My Thoughts
The PO (or his shop) incorrectly used power steering fluid instead of ATF. Flushing the system did indeed make the steering lighter, but still didn't give it an OEM feel.

Could the steering rack be sludged up? Before the lift, I don't recall any wandering issues or hypersensitivity in the steering.

Could this all be caused by an incorrect alignment?

I'm not afraid to throw parts at this problem, but short of a new rack I can't think of anything else to replace! Looking forward to your input.
 
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Your steering rack guide bushing was replaced??? Its probably too tight... Loosen it out a tad and see what it feels like.

Also, were the lower ball joints oem? If not they could be bad already. I had some aftermarkets on for 3k miles before my steering started acting like that and come to find out the new junk ball joints were on their way to popping out.
 
Your steering rack guide bushing was replaced??? Its probably too tight... Loosen it out a tad and see what it feels like.

Look underneath and see if it looks like anybody interfered with the rack guide, the large nut on the driver side in front of the sway bar.
 
My 4runner has the same wandering problem and the steering feels almost too responsive although it's not that bad. It happened after replacing the sway bar links with moogs and all the sway bushings to prothane polyurethane. Sometimes it will pull to the right while driving, sometimes the left? I wonder if the sway bar is binding up somehow? Or the tightness of the new sway system is amplifying another problem. Or it changed the camber. I didn't get an alignment after the new sway parts though, because it shouldnt be affecting steering.

Heres what I've done similar to you:

Started out terrible, like driving in wind all the time on the highway.

  • Replaced LBJs, inner + outer tie rods, poly rack bushings. Alignment. Felt awesome.
  • Replaced rack guide to new style, took a while to dial it in and it feels light, but OK driving 500 miles on the new one. If it's too tight and this will definitely stop it returning to center. Wish I never messed with it TBH.
  • Replaced front/rear sway links to moogs. Felt a little light/weird.
  • Replaced front and rear sway bushings to prothanes. Wanders now.
  • Had some shimmy/vibration on a highway the other day at 70mph. Stopped and checked everything and nothing is loose or broken. Mostly went away after the tires warmed up. When I got home I removed a bunch of rocks out of the treads and rotated the tires, set all down to 32psi (p265/70/16) and shimmy went away. Seemed to be related to road surface though.

I wonder if it might be a bent rim because I beat the crap out of the wheels in frustration getting them off when I did the links.
 
Last edited:
Background
  • 2002 SR5 with 240k miles.
  • Previous owner installed 2" body lift and 2" spacer lift.
  • Spacer lift removed and replaced with TRD/LC/Bilsteins.
  • ITE/OTE's replaced.
  • LBJ's replaced.
  • Swaybar links replaced.
  • Steering bushings replaced.
  • Power steering fluid flushed and replaced with ATF.
  • UCA's and UBJ's replaced.
  • Slip joint welded.
  • Steering shaft clamp readjusted.

I've had the truck aligned twice at one shop using top of the line Hunter equipment. I've also had the alignment checked after at a second shop.

Camber:
L -> 0.5 R -> -0.5

Caster:
L -> 2.9 R -> 3.4

Toe:
L -> .03 R -> .02

Symptoms

The truck has heavy steering. With the engine off and the front wheels raised into the air, the wheels require more effort to turn side to side.

The steering will not spring back to center. With 3+ caster, I was expecting to have very centrally focused steering. If I aim the wheel to the right, it will continue turning right until the direction is changed manually. Same applies to the left.

The front wheels appear to have positive camber when viewed from the front. The front tires bulge more on the outside of the tire than on the inside.

The truck wanders and requires many micro adjustments while driving. At freeway speeds, the steering requires only minute inputs to make any direction changes. This makes driving very exhausting.

My Thoughts
The PO (or his shop) incorrectly used power steering fluid instead of ATF. Flushing the system did indeed make the steering lighter, but still didn't give it an OEM feel.

Could the steering rack be sludged up? Before the lift, I don't recall any wandering issues or hypersensitivity in the steering.

Could this all be caused by an incorrect alignment?

I'm not afraid to throw parts at this problem, but short of a new rack I can't think of anything else to replace! Looking forward to your input.


I had this exact same issue after replacing my rack. It was an aftermarket new rack from www.toyotasteering.com. My steering would return a little but not much. It would take lots of correction back and forth to keep her straight and turning was heavy.

Did you install OEM parts? My new inner tie rod ends where bad on my new rack. The alignment shop didnt even say anything or notice when aligning. The steering got worse over time. I then lifted truck and noticed some play in the inner tie rod ends. I went to parts store and got the napa inner tie rod ends. They failed in a month. I then went oem and never had another issue. If your new parts are all solid then I would suspect the rack may be the issue.
 
Your steering rack guide bushing was replaced??? Its probably too tight... Loosen it out a tad and see what it feels like.

Also, were the lower ball joints oem? If not they could be bad already. I had some aftermarkets on for 3k miles before my steering started acting like that and come to find out the new junk ball joints were on their way to popping out.

The ball joints are Moog's. After to taking it to one of the more reputable alignment shops in the valley, I've narrowed it down to the tightness of the brand new ball joints or the rack binding up.

It's just interesting that I never noticed these issues with the previous lift. Then again, every time I drive the truck the problems feel less apparent.

Look underneath and see if it looks like anybody interfered with the rack guide, the large nut on the driver side in front of the sway bar.
It's an inverted nut on the 01-02 and it's been adjusted.

My 4runner has the same wandering problem and the steering feels almost too responsive although it's not that bad. It happened after replacing the sway bar links with moogs and all the sway bushings to prothane polyurethane. Sometimes it will pull to the right while driving, sometimes the left? I wonder if the sway bar is binding up somehow? Or the tightness of the new sway system is amplifying another problem. Or it changed the camber. I didn't get an alignment after the new sway parts though, because it shouldnt be affecting steering.

Heres what I've done similar to you:

Started out terrible, like driving in wind all the time on the highway.

  • Replaced LBJs, inner + outer tie rods, poly rack bushings. Alignment. Felt awesome.
  • Replaced rack guide to new style, took a while to dial it in and it feels light, but OK driving 500 miles on the new one. If it's too tight and this will definitely stop it returning to center. Wish I never messed with it TBH.
  • Replaced front/rear sway links to moogs. Felt a little light/weird.
  • Replaced front and rear sway bushings to prothanes. Wanders now.
  • Had some shimmy/vibration on a highway the other day at 70mph. Stopped and checked everything and nothing is loose or broken. Mostly went away after the tires warmed up. When I got home I removed a bunch of rocks out of the treads and rotated the tires, set all down to 32psi (p265/70/16) and shimmy went away. Seemed to be related to road surface though.

I wonder if it might be a bent rim because I beat the crap out of the wheels in frustration getting them off when I did the links.
From what I understand, vibes are most always a balance issue (whether tires, wheels, or rotors). Rarely too much toe can also cause vibes. Again this is just from what alignment techs have told me.

I had this exact same issue after replacing my rack. It was an aftermarket new rack from www.toyotasteering.com. My steering would return a little but not much. It would take lots of correction back and forth to keep her straight and turning was heavy.

Did you install OEM parts? My new inner tie rod ends where bad on my new rack. The alignment shop didnt even say anything or notice when aligning. The steering got worse over time. I then lifted truck and noticed some play in the inner tie rod ends. I went to parts store and got the napa inner tie rod ends. They failed in a month. I then went oem and never had another issue. If your new parts are all solid then I would suspect the rack may be the issue.
I'm going to give it 2k miles for the ball joints to break in and then I'll look into the rack. Good to know, thanks!
 
I just replaced my rack last week. If I had the proper tools it would have went smooth, but because I had to run around Sedona/Cottonwood it took me longer. Anyway can be done if you want to try it yourself. You can PM and I can send you a quick write up. I ordered my new rack from the website below. Showed up in two days. So far I'm quite happy. And the warranty is the best I have found. I ordered the new one, not reman.

1999*Toyota*4 Runner*Power Steering Rack from Carsteering
 
I just replaced my rack last week. If I had the proper tools it would have went smooth, but because I had to run around Sedona/Cottonwood it took me longer. Anyway can be done if you want to try it yourself. You can PM and I can send you a quick write up. I ordered my new rack from the website below. Showed up in two days. So far I'm quite happy. And the warranty is the best I have found. I ordered the new one, not reman.

1999*Toyota*4 Runner*Power Steering Rack from Carsteering

That is just another version of www.toyotasteering.com. Site looks identical, same wording on warranty and I also got the new version. Last I checked I couldnt even get on toyotasteering.com website. It was closed down. I know these are the same guys.

Anyways after my "new rack" inner tie rod ends failed. I emailed them about 10 times with over 5 phone calls in a month periods time with ZERO answers, call backs or return to my email. I had the 3 year warranty or whatever they offer. I would not recommend these guys at all. Last I checked I had a slight leak at one side of the rack also.

If I remember right these guys offer a good rack. You must call them and they actually back there warranty.

Safari LTD - Your Local Toyota Parts & Service Center
 
That is just another version of www.toyotasteering.com. Site looks identical, same wording on warranty and I also got the new version. Last I checked I couldnt even get on toyotasteering.com website. It was closed down. I know these are the same guys.

Anyways after my "new rack" inner tie rod ends failed. I emailed them about 10 times with over 5 phone calls in a month periods time with ZERO answers, call backs or return to my email. I had the 3 year warranty or whatever they offer. I would not recommend these guys at all. Last I checked I had a slight leak at one side of the rack also.

If I remember right these guys offer a good rack. You must call them and they actually back there warranty.

Safari LTD - Your Local Toyota Parts & Service Center

Wow I hope mine works because I do not want to tear it apart again. I was a little shocked that it came with the old style guide versus the new one. I researched what I could and found this one came recommended and the Safari LTD one as well. I would say go with the Safari, but it may be more expensive

I just checked as well the price as well. I paid $288 for the new one, now its listed for $350
 
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Wow I hope mine works because I do not want to tear it apart again. I was a little shocked that it came with the old style guide versus the new one. I researched what I could and found this one came recommended and the Safari LTD one as well. I would say go with the Safari, but it may be more expensive

I just checked as well the price as well. I paid $288 for the new one, now its listed for $350

I did this as well. I paid $350 for mine. Research showed these guys had good racks. So far its not bad, just the ITRE's failed. So far the leak is very very minimal but that always changes.

I ordered mine for a 1996 and it came with the new style guide, not the old. I was going to check it when I found my steering was super lose after install before I found the ITRE's had failed.
 
Background
  • 2002 SR5 with 240k miles.
  • Previous owner installed 2" body lift and 2" spacer lift.
  • Spacer lift removed and replaced with TRD/LC/Bilsteins.
  • ITE/OTE's replaced.
  • LBJ's replaced.
  • Swaybar links replaced.
  • Steering bushings replaced.
  • Power steering fluid flushed and replaced with ATF.
  • UCA's and UBJ's replaced.
  • Slip joint welded.
  • Steering shaft clamp readjusted.

I've had the truck aligned twice at one shop using top of the line Hunter equipment. I've also had the alignment checked after at a second shop.

Camber:
L -> 0.5 R -> -0.5

Caster:
L -> 2.9 R -> 3.4

Toe:
L -> .03 R -> .02

Symptoms

The truck has heavy steering. With the engine off and the front wheels raised into the air, the wheels require more effort to turn side to side.

The steering will not spring back to center. With 3+ caster, I was expecting to have very centrally focused steering. If I aim the wheel to the right, it will continue turning right until the direction is changed manually. Same applies to the left.

The front wheels appear to have positive camber when viewed from the front. The front tires bulge more on the outside of the tire than on the inside.

The truck wanders and requires many micro adjustments while driving. At freeway speeds, the steering requires only minute inputs to make any direction changes. This makes driving very exhausting.

My Thoughts
The PO (or his shop) incorrectly used power steering fluid instead of ATF. Flushing the system did indeed make the steering lighter, but still didn't give it an OEM feel.

Could the steering rack be sludged up? Before the lift, I don't recall any wandering issues or hypersensitivity in the steering.

Could this all be caused by an incorrect alignment?

I'm not afraid to throw parts at this problem, but short of a new rack I can't think of anything else to replace! Looking forward to your input.

Did you ever figure out what caused your steering issue? I have the same problem
 
Yes, the Moog ball joints. I swapped to OEM ball joints, and the problem was completely fixed immediately.

Awesome thanks, i had this problem already with old oem BJ's so I'm putting my money on the issue being the rack. I also have a leak on the left boot of the rack so I'm pretty sure my rack is bad.
 

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