HELP! 2015 TRD PRO NO START= TuRD?!

Just throwing it out there but do you know if your mechanic hits the gas when he starts it? Sounds dumb but if it's really just you that can't start it must be something really obvious - I know my last mechanic before we moved always hit the gas when starting everything out of habit of working on older cars.

Good luck that must be so frustrating haha I had a 4 stroke Yamaha 400 dirt bike i had to call a buddy to start when I was younger and it drove me nuts
 
tb-av said:
Is everyone using the same key?

Also when you park it and can't start it, is there any network, radio, or any other such transmission that could be interfering with your key trying to communicate with the truck. Your phone? Anything.

I know that's a stretch, but the next time it happens try to turn off all electronics that may be near. The only thing I can imagine that would always be around and specific to you would be your phone though.

That is one bizarre situation.
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I've used both keys turned both directions (up/down). The one that seems to work most often is the one I had as a spare. I've had both keys fail many times. Good thought! I'll keep my phone away from everything the next time I try.
 
Also, are any other keys on the ring? Maybe even another chipped Toyota key? If so, it's possible the transponder is picking up the chip in both keys which equals a false code. On the dash, there is the security light. Is that light lit up solid red when you're trying to start it and it fails to start?
 
If you have remote starter option - get it uninstalled. Some people don't know but they indeed have OEM Toyota remote starter and it has been known to cause issues precisely same as yours. Check for it by hitting lock button on key twice, then hold down a third time for about 10 seconds. Lights will flash five times and car will start. G.L.
 
444 said:
I've used both keys turned both directions (up/down). The one that seems to work most often is the one I had as a spare. I've had both keys fail many times. Good thought! I'll keep my phone away from everything the next time I try.
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You know, someone up above asked you if you changed your batteries in your key. You said no. I think their point was, you should put fresh batteries in.

Vids on Youtube to show you how depending on shape of key.
 
given the age of the vehicle and the relatively low miles, I'm thinking the following in order of potential:

1) vehicle security system fault (batteries in the key fob may help this. my 2010 mustang acted goofy and similar but not exactly like this when the key fob batteries were weak in both keys.)
2) Rodent related wiring damage
3) ECU or fuel pump relay
4)crank or cam sensor fault (unlikely with no codes)
 
*apparently* the TRD pro package has a great resale value.

If that were my problem, I'd trade that sucker in.

My reason for buying a 4runner is reliability. If I couldn't drive it deep into the woods and trust it to start, I'd get rid of it.
 
What surprises me is that there are no codes or faults. So does that mean the truck thinks it's running or that it was never started? Or, it has some problem not covered in any of the fault logic.

It would be nice to know what really happens when you turn the key. A list of the sequence of events and timing. Kind of a flow chart to help diagnose this problem. I bet Toyota has one. It has to be some condition that's not being met or met in time that's the problem.
 
I agree, it does. I ran a car stereo shop for 9 years and installed more remote starts than I can count. Having a dead battery in the key remote should not stop the truck from starting though. Think about it, you're out with your family on vacation, remote dies, you're stranded. Doesn't work that way. Having 2 chipped keys on the same key ring however could cause this issue. Either way, I hope the OP figured it out quickly. Things like this can turn into a nightmare.
 
<<<< said:
If you have remote starter option - get it uninstalled. Some people don't know but they indeed have OEM Toyota remote starter and it has been known to cause issues precisely same as yours. Check for it by hitting lock button on key twice, then hold down a third time for about 10 seconds. Lights will flash five times and car will start. G.L.
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No other keys on the ring at all. No remote start of any type.

I just tried the OEM starter thing but nothing happened except it locked the truck like it was supposed to.

I tried turning the key and it cranked and wouldn't fire. I tried twice with one key with no luck. I tried the second key (the one I rarely use) and it started on the second try.

If by chance the battery was getting low on one of the keys, why does the remote lock/unlock work from a long distance but then doesn't have enough juice to "trigger a start"?

I'm getting the batteries changed in both tomorrow to see if it makes a difference.
 
444 said:
No other keys on the ring at all. No remote start of any type.

I just tried the OEM starter thing but nothing happened except it locked the truck like it was supposed to.

I tried turning the key and it cranked and wouldn't fire. I tried twice with one key with no luck. I tried the second key (the one I rarely use) and it started on the second try.

If by chance the battery was getting low on one of the keys, why does the remote lock/unlock work from a long distance but then doesn't have enough juice to "trigger a start"?

I'm getting the batteries changed in both tomorrow to see if it makes a difference.
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It's not the batteries in the remote, they have nothing to do with the transponder. You can remove the batteries all together and the truck will start fine. You got a valet key with the truck right? Gray rubber head, no remote, no battery, starts it just the same.

Does the security light on the dash come on solid when you try and start it? The red light that normally flashes when the truck is not running.
 
I believe we have solved the mystery!!! Thanks for everyone's thoughts and ideas! :doh:

I'm going to test the theory for 2 more days and then let everyone know.
Hint... TB-AV and 2016 4Runner SR5 & Foques were thinking now what I believe is similar to the solution

At that time I'll ask everyone's advice on a follow-up question pertaining to the solution.
 
Last edited:
Here's the dealio....

Summary:

Gas light came on. Drove a short distance. Stopped for 40 minutes. Went to restart- starter fired strong but no start. Added 5 gallons of gas. No start. No codes

Towed to dealer. They looked at it 2 days later and it started right up for them. Had it for 2 days couldn't reproduce the problem. No codes (they had my secondary key)

Drove it home. Sat for 2 days. Tried starting... no start with primary key. Tried secondary key. No start for a few tries then it started. When it starts it runs perfectly.

A few days later it started right up. Drove 5 miles. Parked, then it wouldn't start after. I tried both keys in both directions (up and down) multiple times. Wouldn't start. Shook the truck for 15 seconds and then it started up.
Drove to my mechanic. He had it for awhile and couldn't reproduce the problem. I took it back home and it wouldn't start for 4 days. I had to tow it again.

We decided to order a fuel pump. Installed it. Drove home no issues. Sat for 6 hours. Wouldn't start with main key, wouldn't start with secondary key.
Sat and cried for a couple minutes and then tried again. Started up right away.

Here's what happened:

I use a pulsed electro magnetic field machine for part of my work. On the day just prior to the first time it didn't start something happened. Because of the particular situation I must have accidentally gotten my main keyfob too close to the magnetic field and fried the chip- I'm usually extra careful keeping my keys and phone away from it. :happens:

The key I gave the dealer and my mechanic was the other key that wasn't exposed to the magnetic field. That's why they could never reproduce the non-start.

The thing that threw me off was that I tried both keys on multiple occasions and it usually didn't start.
What I didn't realize was that when I put in the "fried chip" keyfob to start and then quickly afterwards tried the good key I didn't have either enough time or enough "cycles" to clear the bad key signal to the immobilizer.

Every time that the good key started the truck is when there was enough time or cycles since the last time I tried with the bad key.

Question #1: Does anyone know the details of this- how many cycles or how much time is needed for the system to be clear?
#2: I haven't had any issues for a couple days with using the good key. Should I be concerned at all about needing my computer "reset" after having tried to start it so many times with a bad key?

It makes total sense now. I'm just glad me and my truck aren't possessed. :satan:

By the way, does anyone want to by a stock fuel pump that is in good condition?

Thanks again for all the brain storming especially the suggestions about the key and immobilizer.
 
Last edited:
Good info here-- thanks for the update

Fingers crossed that is never an issue for you again

Cheers
 
444 said:
I use a pulsed electro magnetic field machine for part of my work.
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Holy cow... I was close, but that is not what I would have thought of.

I was thinking you must be in some abnormal RFI EMI situation. Would not have guessed you were getting locked out too, due to a fried key due to the EMI.

Damn, man you should win some sort of prize for most bizarre trouble issue.

You are actually probably lucky it never failed for the dealer. They would have replaced everything but the cup holder by now.
 
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