HELP: How do I manually open my 2003 4Runner Trunk?

[rmajoran]

Does anyone know how to manually open the trunk in a 2003 Toyota 4Runner?

Here's the deal. I had a problem with the trunk where it would not shut. The electronic mechanism would not latch properly... It sounded like it was, but it would never latch. I did a search for it and found my issue here:

2003 4runner back door will not latch - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

So I ordered the part (69110-35062 - Lock Assembly w/ Motor) and was ready to install it tonight. Problem is, my trunk will no longer open and I've tried everything (including all the tricks with the key in the hatch, etc.). Everything else works -- power locks, windows, rear wipers, etc.... it's just my trunk.

Anyways, I decided to see if I could replace the kit from the inside. I took the rear panel off and peeled back the plastic. Problem is, it doesn't look like I have access to all of the screws that I need to get out unless I can get the trunk open.

Any thoughts?

Sincerely,
Ray

 

[Bossman]

Hey Ray,

Here is my best educated guess (thanks to my 2003-2009 Haynes Repair Manual for T4R) regarding the Liftgate latch.

Step 1 of the procedure indicates to "disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal."

Since the problem seems to be with the electrical nature of the lock mechanism, once the battery is disconnected then I suspect that the lock should work with your key as a "non-energized" mechanism - if that makes sense.

Haynes describes the removal of the liftgate latch and lock cylinder separately. By my reading you will not be able to access the latch assembly without having the liftgate open, but may be able to access the lock cylinder with the door trim panel and watershield off.

When removing the lock cylinder, it does say to "disconnect the electrical connector"

Hope this helps ... good luck!

Bossman.

 

[rmajoran]

Thanks bossman. I actually got the following reply from another forum (which worked PERFECTLY (in case someone else comes across this problem):

"The entire latch mechanism is covered by a white plastic enclosure. On one side of the white plastic enclosure is a smaller white plastic cover. Pull the smaller cover off.

You should now see two levers sticking out of the side. The shorter of the two levers will manually release the latch."

The only difference was -- it was actually the longer lever that released it. Nonetheless, it did release!

Thanks again.

Ray

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Ray,
How did you get to it? Sit in the cargo area and then what?

 

[Bossman]

Thanks bossman. I actually got the following reply from another forum (which worked PERFECTLY (in case someone else comes across this problem):

"The entire latch mechanism is covered by a white plastic enclosure. On one side of the white plastic enclosure is a smaller white plastic cover. Pull the smaller cover off.

You should now see two levers sticking out of the side. The shorter of the two levers will manually release the latch."

The only difference was -- it was actually the longer lever that released it. Nonetheless, it did release!

Thanks again.

Ray

Hey Ray,

A manual release certainly does make much more sense - glad you found it! Thanks for sharing.

 

[PredBlue]

Ray,
How did you get to it? Sit in the cargo area and then what?

Ditto, I would be interested in hearing how you did this.

Also, does anybody have a picture or diagram showing the "white plastic cover" and the manual lever mentioned in this thread? If the lever releases the hatch manually, would you also be able to use the same lever to manually engage the hatch lock if the electronic mechanism fails?

I think additional details would be useful for all of us in an EHFS. (emergency hatch failure situation ).

Thanks.

 

[doucettedave]

Liftgate will not open

I found the small plastic cover and removed it and frigged around with both the short and long levers but nothing happened. My next step is to tie the liftgate to a tree and drive off at a quick rate I bet it will open then

 

[riceandpho]

roll the window down wit key and hold for 10 secs, then back up and hold for 10 secs, do this couple of times like 5 and then lock and unlock with key, also do it in the inside switch both window and door locks.and squeze the lever/button to open the hatch, this should reset it.

 

[T4RTurboD]

I'm having the same problem with my liftgate lock asy, my question is what do you do press it down pull it up for it to release?

 

[JazzTrmpter]

Fixed the rear door button

Found the levers in the smaller white box. The small lever opened it up for me.

I am installing sound deadening in the hatchback door at the moment and I disconnected lots of things without removing the negative post on the battery...which lead me to this thread. Couldn't get the automatic lock feature to work on my '05 Sr5 Sport Ed., nor would the open button work. Here's what I did to fix it, and it works like normal now.

Disconnect negative terminal from battery
Disconnect wiring harnesses that I had previously disconnected while sound deadening the back (includes the lock assembly "clip")
Reconnect all those wiring harnesses previously disconnected (with the battery still disconnected)
Reconnect the negative post on the battery
Turn ignition to On to roll the back window down
Remove Key, make sure doors are unlocked.
Try opening your rear door.

This worked for me, your results may be different (hopefully not!)

By the way, I have noticed that many things go awry when the negative post on battery is disconnected, like: idle speed on startup, moonroof controls, rear windshield wiper controls. It's like the computer has to re-learn everything again. I remember the first start up after reconnecting the battery a previous time, the engine idle dropped to ~300rpms, almost died. After several times of starting again, it learned the proper idle speed for my environment (anywhere from ~500-1.3k rpms depending on temperature).

Best of luck! And from now on, I'm going to be disconnecting the battery before touching anything electrical. No idea why I had not done this tonight while working on the rear. :ybrick:

 

[stevec5000]

Hey Ray,

Here is my best educated guess (thanks to my 2003-2009 Haynes Repair Manual for T4R) regarding the Liftgate latch.

Step 1 of the procedure indicates to "disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal."

Since the problem seems to be with the electrical nature of the lock mechanism, once the battery is disconnected then I suspect that the lock should work with your key as a "non-energized" mechanism - if that makes sense.

Haynes describes the removal of the liftgate latch and lock cylinder separately. By my reading you will not be able to access the latch assembly without having the liftgate open, but may be able to access the lock cylinder with the door trim panel and watershield off.

When removing the lock cylinder, it does say to "disconnect the electrical connector"

Hope this helps ... good luck!

Bossman.

Trying to open it with the battery disconnected won't work using the key since the key has no connection to the latch, it's just a switch that allows it to "unlock" but you still have to press on the rubber release below the handle, which is just a push button switch that operates the electric release, which won't do anything now that the battery power is missing.
I tried it yesterday and as far as I can tell there is no way to open it without battery power.

 

[scrooster]

Hey Ray,

Here is my best educated guess (thanks to my 2003-2009 Haynes Repair Manual for T4R) regarding the Liftgate latch.

Step 1 of the procedure indicates to "disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal."

Since the problem seems to be with the electrical nature of the lock mechanism, once the battery is disconnected then I suspect that the lock should work with your key as a "non-energized" mechanism - if that makes sense.

Haynes describes the removal of the liftgate latch and lock cylinder separately. By my reading you will not be able to access the latch assembly without having the liftgate open, but may be able to access the lock cylinder with the door trim panel and watershield off.

When removing the lock cylinder, it does say to "disconnect the electrical connector"

Hope this helps ... good luck!

Bossman.

This may end-up being exactly what I needed to get into that rear hatch. Had to read through about thirty threads so far to finally get to this one informative post on the subject - an excellent post btw, thank you. Rep pts and thanks given.

 

[Tex-Tac]

2003 4Runner rear door hatch lock mechanism replacement

This did it for me!!! :bounce:

(yes I know that this is an old thread but still just wanted to convey my gratitude)

Thanks JazzTrmpter for providing this info. Just today, I had to replace the locking mechanism on my wifes 2003 4Runner (she loves her 4Runner, doesn't want to get rid of it for something else! :shrug rear door hatch and followed your instructions after installing it and this definitely worked for me.

Again, thanks

Found the levers in the smaller white box. The small lever opened it up for me.

I am installing sound deadening in the hatchback door at the moment and I disconnected lots of things without removing the negative post on the battery...which lead me to this thread. Couldn't get the automatic lock feature to work on my '05 Sr5 Sport Ed., nor would the open button work. Here's what I did to fix it, and it works like normal now.

Disconnect negative terminal from battery
Disconnect wiring harnesses that I had previously disconnected while sound deadening the back (includes the lock assembly "clip")
Reconnect all those wiring harnesses previously disconnected (with the battery still disconnected)
Reconnect the negative post on the battery
Turn ignition to On to roll the back window down
Remove Key, make sure doors are unlocked.
Try opening your rear door.

This worked for me, your results may be different (hopefully not!)

By the way, I have noticed that many things go awry when the negative post on battery is disconnected, like: idle speed on startup, moonroof controls, rear windshield wiper controls. It's like the computer has to re-learn everything again. I remember the first start up after reconnecting the battery a previous time, the engine idle dropped to ~300rpms, almost died. After several times of starting again, it learned the proper idle speed for my environment (anywhere from ~500-1.3k rpms depending on temperature).

Best of luck! And from now on, I'm going to be disconnecting the battery before touching anything electrical. No idea why I had not done this tonight while working on the rear. :ybrick:

 

[Iolaus]

So... are there any other methods for getting the rear door to unlatch?

Mine is a 2007 SR5.

Apparently a strap from a backpack was laying across the sill when I closed the door, and it just happened to be right where the latch is - I presume the strap either got pulled into the latch in some way, or is putting pressure on the mechanism. I pulled the back panel and have manipulated those two levers in every way possible, but nothing happens. When I simply trigger the switch, both levers lift up, but nothing disengages. I've tried sitting on the window sill while both triggering the latch electronically, and manually, but still nothing disengages the lock.

 

[alia176]

Found the levers in the smaller white box. The small lever opened it up for me.

I'm curious if one can install a simple pull cord connected to this "small lever" as means of an emergency release.

 

[Iolaus]

The white plastic cover over the main assembly appears to only be held in place by one easily accessible screw. I wonder if, were that to be removed, I might be able to directly access the mechanism and force the fingers apart.

 

[Iolaus]

The white plastic cover over the main assembly appears to only be held in place by one easily accessible screw. I wonder if, were that to be removed, I might be able to directly access the mechanism and force the fingers apart.

Well, taking out that screw didn't release the cover, and I am loath to destroy the cover in an effort to get under it. Is there any way to access the bolts that hold the strike in place?

I'm getting desperate here! Not only can I not access the cargo door, I also can't access the spare tire!

 

[Iolaus]

OK! In my case, the problem was that I was trying to finesse a problem that required brute force!

I figured that, since I could see the levers moving when I actuated the lock, at minimum the locking mechanism should be released, if not actually moving. I had already yanked pretty hard, and I had pushed on it from inside with no result, so I upped the force used. I climbed inside the back, braced against the back seat, triggered the mechanism, and pushed with my legs. That popped it open. The piece of strap clearly shows the indent where it was forced into the lock. Tried the door several times, and it works just fine.

 

[Kimchisup]

Reviving this post back from the dead, but my situation is a bit more complicated.

As mentioned in this thread, my rear hatch isn't opening. However, this all began while trying to install a backup camera by tapping into the reverse wire on the taillight.

Now, my rear hatch won't open, the reverse lights won't turn on (but the brake lamps work fine), turn signals don't work (no clicking sound, but when hazard is pressed, all turn signals flash) and the fuel gauge seems to intermittently be reading empty with the gas light on.

I don't have enough posts to start a new thread, but could anyone guide me in the right direction as to what wiring nightmare I may have caused?

 

[aemravan]

Reviving this post back from the dead, but my situation is a bit more complicated.

As mentioned in this thread, my rear hatch isn't opening. However, this all began while trying to install a backup camera by tapping into the reverse wire on the taillight.

Now, my rear hatch won't open, the reverse lights won't turn on (but the brake lamps work fine), turn signals don't work (no clicking sound, but when hazard is pressed, all turn signals flash) and the fuel gauge seems to intermittently be reading empty with the gas light on.

I don't have enough posts to start a new thread, but could anyone guide me in the right direction as to what wiring nightmare I may have caused?

When you say taping into the reverse wire, how did you go about it?
Do you still have access to the wire you tapped into ? If so, does undoing the wiring you did get your reverse to come on?

sounds like you shorted something out with whatever wiring you were attempting. If possible, I would return the wiring to the way it was before and see where that gets you, if you still have no luck with the turn signals or reverse after that I would start checking fuses to see if you blew a fuse or two.