HELP identify this part

[UncleRemus]

Im having a problem with my fuse box/relays and think Ive narrowed it down to this part. Notice that the 3rd from the left, bottom row socket is missing the small metal clamp that all the other sockets have. Can anyone confirm that it should have a little clamp also?

Anyways, I am trying to replace this plastic socket portion in my '99 without buying an entire wiring harness. It has the numbers 9325 printed on it. It plugs into the fuse box in the drivers side dash kick panel. I am hoping to get a part number so that I can order one.

 

[TheDurk]

The number you are looking for is not going to be printed. There should be a five-digit number molded into the connector. The part number for that plastic housing will be that number preceded by 90980-.

You are fortunate that I have a '99 EWD and I can confirm:

That plug is #B16 on the Body ECU. The terminal hole you refer to is T8 and it is unused in this application. #6, same row, next to the tab, is also unused. The rest are used and should have wires/terminals. I can tell you what each wire does if you need help chasing a problem.

The part number for the plastic housing is 90980- 10921. This is JUST the plastic housing, you would have to transfer over the wires and connectors. Repair wires with terminals are sold separately. If you need one (or more), I can look up that number, too, or the dealer can get them. The dealer will probably NOT be able to obtain this part number for the housing as I did, but they can order it for you if you have the number. Some will do it, like mine, but I have heard of some who won't.

90980-10921 - Genuine Toyota HOUSING, CONNECTOR F

In any case, your issue is NOT the missing T8 terminal. Since it didn't have a wire, it may have just fallen out, but it would make no electrical difference.

 

[tyr0981]

The amount of knowledge spread around on T4R.org is unbelievable!


op2:

 

[UncleRemus]

Well the problem I'm having is a clicking relay on the circuit board. It seems to be related to The rear hatch. The dome light turns on/off when the relay clicks, and my rear window and wiper work intermittently.

 

[slapdappy]

There should be a five-digit number molded into the connector. The part number for that plastic housing will be that number preceded by 90980-.

I can confirm:

That plug is #B16 on the Body ECU. The terminal hole you refer to is T8 and it is unused in this application. I can tell you what each wire does if you need help chasing a problem.

The part number for the plastic housing is 90980- 10921. This is JUST the plastic housing, you would have to transfer over the wires and connectors. Repair wires with terminals are sold separately. If you need one (or more), I can look up that number, too.
In any case, your issue is NOT the missing T8 terminal.

you are the 4Runner Kwisatz Haderach Jedi Ninja, or an electrical wiring diagrams savant. Either way... wow.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I believe Durk is the one who decided that the tensioner tool , used for a TB change if the tensioner is being reused, was good enough to be used for spreading apart door frames or jambs. Which one I cannot remember.

 

[TheDurk]

Well the problem I'm having is a clicking relay on the circuit board. It seems to be related to The rear hatch. The dome light turns on/off when the relay clicks, and my rear window and wiper work intermittently.

Pretty much has to be the PWR relay, back side of where you are, top right corner looking from the back. I'd check your 30A PWR fuse first--the big one in the top right corner--it may be semi-burnt and passing current intermittently. The second thing to try is swapping the PWR relay itself. If those aren't it, then you have to trace the ground and power circuits to the coil of the relay. Check the fuse and relay first and let's go from there. The PWR relay and the EFI relay are the same. The EFI is a worse place to have a bad relay, but you can swap it for a test. If fuel pump cuts out, swap 'em back and get a new PWR relay.

I'm pretty busy this weekend, but maybe my West Coast affiliate [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] can lend a hand.

 

[UncleRemus]

Any idea if the PWR relay has a part number? Or is it just a generic relay with a specific rating?

 

[TheDurk]

Hey, I am old enough that I grew up before video games and computers and when TV's had only 13 channels. So I would take apart tube TV's and radios and I learned to build stuff out of the parts. The nitty gritty of wiring is like a return to my childhood. I loved that Coke machines back then had schematics on the back that told you exactly how they could be hot wired. (Pretty sure you can't do that today.)

 

[TheDurk]

Any idea if the PWR relay has a part number? Or is it just a generic relay with a specific rating?

It's 90987-02012 : RELAY ASSY, POWER WINDOW. As I said, it's the same as the EFI relay. NAPA has them as ECH AR614 for $18. Dealer list is $68, $49 on-line: http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/toyota~relay~ignition~no~1~90987-02012.html But it may not be the problem. That's why I suggested swapping with the EFI relay to test.

This kind of smells like a ground problem. Has any work been done under the dash recently? Stereo install or the like?

 

[UncleRemus]

Also I'm pretty confident that the clicking relay is one soldered to the circuit board. Not an external one. Still think its the power relay though?

 

[UncleRemus]

Yup. The previous owner had a new stereo unit installed.

 

[TheDurk]

Also I'm pretty confident that the clicking relay is one soldered to the circuit board. Not an external one. Still think its the power relay though?

Hmmmm. I thought you meant an external relay was clicking. Sure, it could be something internal to the Body ECU. That would make sense, actually, since the PWR circuit has nothing to do with dome lights, but the Body ECU controls those as well as the signals to the rear window and wiper. This is tough to troubleshoot, as we don't have internal diagrams for the ECU's, they are just 'black boxes'.

I'll have to think on this one. It's getting late here. I'll need some time. Sorry....

 

[UncleRemus]

Im really hoping to get a replacement circuit board off a totalled '99 and test if that helps at all. Really don't want to hunt for a short or ground loop etc somewhere in the system. You've been a great source of knowledge so far. THANKS.

 

[TheDurk]

Im really hoping to get a replacement circuit board off a totalled '99 and test if that helps at all. Really don't want to hunt for a short or ground loop etc somewhere in the system. You've been a great source of knowledge so far. THANKS.

If you can do that, it is the most likely fix.

This what you are looking for and years used, IF you do not have the chipped keys (engine immobolizer). Any 3g will do if it does not have the immobilizer.

11/1995-07/2002 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 82730-35250 (BLOCK, DRIVER SIDE JUNCTION)

If you DO have the immobilizer:

82730-35260 (BLOCK, DRIVER SIDE JUNCTION w/IMMOBILIZER)

Likewise, any year '95-'02 will do.

So just a '99 is not important, but immobilizer or not is....

 

[IBallEngineer]

If you can do that, it is the most likely fix.



So just a '99 is not important, but immobilizer or not is....

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] thanks for the plug, I've been super busy too and haven't been monitoring very much. Body ECU circuits are "sort" of outlined in the EWD, but troubleshooting would be a job for a very patient person. The good thing about swapping it out is it affords the opportunity to inspect the harness and pins which would most likely be the culprit if not the ECU. Of course we haven't ruled out a bad ground, which is usually caused by mechanics or installers. ESPECIALLY stereo installers. Not a bad idea for you to look at some of the ground points around both kick panels and lower dash, just in case.
I'm dying to get my hands on an old Body ECU to take it apart. I will eventually because mine is bad, it continually grounds my Rear Defroster relay, so I have to keep the relay pulled. Of course we don't need it here in Southern California where the sun always shines, the cars don't rust and the women are all beautiful!
Remember, if it works, take it apart and find out why!

 

[UncleRemus]

Turns out I might not be able to get that replacement part... So I dove further into the dash today to try and diagnose the problem. I found these two just hanging out, not plugged into anything. Any idea what they are?

 

[TheDurk]

Bottom one is the diversity antenna (wires embedded in the rear glass--I forget which side of the cargo area).

White one looks like a stereo amp plug. They may have abandoned the stock aux. amp in place when they did the stereo install. So those probably are not your issue.

Ground wire from the Body ECU is White/Black. It goes to a small 4-wire junction (all white/black) near the steering column. Look for anything funky on those wires: Taped joint, Scotch-lok, etc. that could have been done by an installer. If you find one, consider it a prime suspect.

 

[IBallEngineer]

\ Look for anything funky on those wires: Taped joint, Scotch-lok, etc. that could have been done by an installer. If you find one, consider it a prime suspect.

Can't re-emphasize this enough. It's a good ground point for an a/m installer to use, but if they leave it loose it becomes a bad one.

The only difference between a monkey and a mechanic is it takes the mechanic a little bit longer to break things. Technicians are not mechanics.

:snacker:

 

[UncleRemus]

Well I got fed up with the clicking. Ater testing to make sure all the motors work I've decided to bypass the stock wiring and do my own wiring setup to the rear window and lock with new console switches. Any ideas on how to bypass the rear wiper stock wiring but still use the stock switches?