Help me decide on 34" tires

mikey's2010SR5 said:
Gary with the two inch do you still get the protection from bottoming the shocks out?
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I'm sure he will respond with details, but I think I remember a post where he sated he did not have the LT shocks anymore.

I'm pretty sure I checked the shocks with the 3" stops and they were on the edge at fully articulated travel.

I'm not sure why MT would sell the kit with a 3" extension if only a 2" was required. Trust me if you go with LT you will not miss the loss of up travel if you do trails/low speed stuff... Also, you are not loosing 3" of articulated up travel (just vertical up travel). You actually end up losing very little articulated up travel due to the motion ratios (depending on what you have now...). Overall, It's about 27.5" of total wheel travel.

My earlier pic is a bit misleading as I was not really on the stop (I just assumed it was). I'll try to get a fully flexed pic at some point soon.
 
wfo9 said:
My phone is toast, so I could not take any more pics. But here is another from yesterday that sort of shows the stance. I love the look....
Click to expand...

Thanks! It looks just like a 5th gen should tbh. Very well done.
 
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wfo9 said:
I'm sure he will respond with details, but I think I remember a post where he sated he did not have the LT shocks anymore.

I'm pretty sure I checked the shocks with the 3" stops and they were on the edge at fully articulated travel.

I'm not sure why MT would sell the kit with a 3" extension if only a 2" was required. Trust me if you go with LT you will not miss the loss of up travel if you do trails/low speed stuff... Also, you are not loosing 3" of articulated up travel (just vertical up travel). You actually end up losing very little articulated up travel due to the motion ratios (depending on what you have now...). Overall, It's about 27.5" of total wheel travel.

My earlier pic is a bit misleading as I was not really on the stop (I just assumed it was). I'll try to get a fully flexed pic at some point soon.
Click to expand...

I figured I would not miss 3 inches on the street. Considering right now I have about 6-7 of shock shaft showing at my current lift. The LT kit would definitely help me on the slow crawling stuff, I know that. Just need to do it I guess. Most likely I will stay with the Radflos that MetalTech has.

Then it will be time for the front...and gears and lockers of course.
 
Here is some shots of mine on 34s....just because I want a photo or two of my truck in here too.

34c3245141d2cc3e65004cc7a76dfeec.jpg

0b210ac18df4c1e93c91c9686cc9c2c8.jpg
 
mikey's2010SR5 said:
Here is some shots of mine on 34s....just because I want a photo or two of my truck in here too.
Click to expand...
Looks great. The slightly larger diameter makes such a difference. I'm so frustrated right now, Just went and took like 50 pics with my gopro (since my phone is toast). Got it on the bump stops... then I come back and find out the camera was still in setup mode.. I was basically swapping between modes each time I took a picture. :yell:
 
wfo9 said:
More pics of the 35s, please!

Have you got them to clear?
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mostly yes. there is still one bit where I'm trying to decide how i want to address it. i don't know if you're familiar with the lower fender mount. its at the back/bottom of the wheel well where the outer fender skin bolts to the inner fender body. at about 20-30% turn on compression the outer 3" area of the tire connects with the body there and if it were jarred hard could potentially be a pretty significant issue with the fender skins (destroyed)

the issue im faced with is the location where the bolt runs through is mounted inboard on the mount vs further aft. so i think I'm going to need to unbolt it and make a spacer to go in-between the two skin points as a structure and drill new holes on the aft side. once i get that done i can chop most of that mount off and i'll be golden.

still trying to decide if i want to one-ton swap live axles underneath or LT all around. also trying to decide how I'm supposed to pay for all that :shrug:
 
marshal said:
mostly yes. there is still one bit where I'm trying to decide how i want to address it. i don't know if you're familiar with the lower fender mount. its at the back/bottom of the wheel well where the outer fender skin bolts to the inner fender body. at about 20-30% turn on compression the outer 3" area of the tire connects with the body there and if it were jarred hard could potentially be a pretty significant issue with the fender skins (destroyed)

the issue im faced with is the location where the bolt runs through is mounted inboard on the mount vs further aft. so i think I'm going to need to unbolt it and make a spacer to go in-between the two skin points as a structure and drill new holes on the aft side. once i get that done i can chop most of that mount off and i'll be golden.

still trying to decide if i want to one-ton swap live axles underneath or LT all around. also trying to decide how I'm supposed to pay for all that :shrug:
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Cool, take some pics of what you end up doing... I can see 35s being my next set if it is doable without too much hacking.

do you plan to add a flare back on or just leave them off?
 
wfo9 said:
Cool, take some pics of what you end up doing... I can see 35s being my next set if it is doable without too much hacking.

do you plan to add a flare back on or just leave them off?
Click to expand...

my front fenders flares were destroyed unfortunately. i'll need about $275 to replace them and the clips to attach them. fitting 35's has not been an easy chore.
 
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marshal said:
mostly yes. there is still one bit where I'm trying to decide how i want to address it. i don't know if you're familiar with the lower fender mount. its at the back/bottom of the wheel well where the outer fender skin bolts to the inner fender body. at about 20-30% turn on compression the outer 3" area of the tire connects with the body there and if it were jarred hard could potentially be a pretty significant issue with the fender skins (destroyed)



the issue im faced with is the location where the bolt runs through is mounted inboard on the mount vs further aft. so i think I'm going to need to unbolt it and make a spacer to go in-between the two skin points as a structure and drill new holes on the aft side. once i get that done i can chop most of that mount off and i'll be golden.



still trying to decide if i want to one-ton swap live axles underneath or LT all around. also trying to decide how I'm supposed to pay for all that :shrug:
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b1e46c63a9cc3101d92d090d915e0e3a.jpg


Is that the area you are talking about? Below is how I trimmed mine and others have completely hacked it off. Then I ground down the fender/pinch weld in that area. You might need to go more drastic with the 35s

9d532937b991f59d412d8b1ad7966e24.jpg
 
just thinking out loud here...
what if camburg, icon, chaos made upper and lower a-arms that placed the wheel 1-2" further foward allowing 34"+ tires to be run easier?
the axel would also move and the coilover or strut mount would have to be altered on the lower arm to keep it straight. steering?

just a idea..
 
I did a bit more trimming tonight... The clearance is looking pretty good, but I'm a little concerned about the washer bottle on the passenger side when turning driver and fully compressed. It looks like it will be close. I would like to keep it if possible...

I think I might pull off the coil over and try cycling the suspension at all steering angles...

I would like to get as many issues as possible worked out before hitting the trails.
 
marshal said:
The Nittos are wearing out fast because dumbasses in 8000lb diesel trucks are using them. You shouldn't have any issue getting 40000 miles out of them, so put that to rest.

Is there a reason why you're not considering the General Grabber or the Cooper STT?
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I would be one of those dumbasses you spoke of. 2015 f250 on 37 nitto mt's. Currently have 39k on them and zero complaints. Half tread life left. I also have nitto 285/70/17 at's on my t4r.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
I had the nittos in 295/70/18s on my Tundra and they still looked new after 20k miles. I would buy again if I was looking for a mt.
 
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