Help me decide on 34" tires

[FreshYoungDude]

I did a bit more trimming tonight... The clearance is looking pretty good, but I'm a little concerned about the washer bottle on the passenger side when turning driver and fully compressed. It looks like it will be close. I would like to keep it if possible...

I think I might pull off the coil over and try cycling the suspension at all steering angles...

I would like to get as many issues as possible worked out before hitting the trails.

I'm just now seeing this thread and I'm sad it died. Is wfo9 still around? What a rad truck! Considering running 305/70's myself.

 

[Engineer]

I'm just now seeing this thread and I'm sad it died. Is wfo9 still around? What a rad truck! Considering running 305/70's myself.

[MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] got stuck in a mall parking lot so we had to ban him.......


I kid, he is still active and will be around shortly - what is you want to know?

 

[wfo9]

Old thread... I'm still around here.. Truck is much different now, but still on the 305 MTRs (for now). Great tires that match the truck well for what I do with it.

Still getting a little rubbing from bushing deflection from time to time when crawling up a steep ledge with all the pressure on one tire, but no big deal at all.

 

[JoeWaka]

Old thread... I'm still around here.. Truck is much different now, but still on the 305 MTRs (for now). Great tires that match the truck well for what I do with it.

Still getting a little rubbing from bushing deflection from time to time when crawling up a steep ledge with all the pressure on one tire, but no big deal at all.

Build looks great. Came across this thread. I just put nitto trail grapplers MTRs 285/75r17 on my 4Runner. Did the BMC and trimmed quite a bit. Only point of potential rubbing when flexing is in the front on the rear fender/rocker location behind front wheel. The wheels I purchased have an offset of -38mm, which I am thinking was a mistake. Looks great tho. Haha
Your thoughts? I was thinking about selling the wheels and getting ones with less offset too avoid issues in the future.

 

[mcharfauros]

Allot of great info and feedback on this thread, definitely staying tuned

 

[Brittrick]

Build looks great. Came across this thread. I just put nitto trail grapplers MTRs 285/75r17 on my 4Runner. Did the BMC and trimmed quite a bit. Only point of potential rubbing when flexing is in the front on the rear fender/rocker location behind front wheel. The wheels I purchased have an offset of -38mm, which I am thinking was a mistake. Looks great tho. Haha
Your thoughts? I was thinking about selling the wheels and getting ones with less offset too avoid issues in the future.

Man I've been reading so many threads before switching out my tires. I have the Icon stage 5 and no BMC yet.. Hesitating to do the BMC. I'm wanting to switch my current Ridge Grapplers to 285/75/17's (basically 34's, 33.8 to be exact).

Do I have to do the BMC and is there further mods I need to be in the know of?

appreciate any feedback [MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] [MENTION=96008]Engineer[/MENTION] [MENTION=140833]JoeWaka[/MENTION]

 

[Jeremy556]

285/75/17's (basically 34's, 33.8 to be exact).
Do I have to do the BMC and is there further mods I need to be in the know of?

Yes, you will have to BMC. If you take it off road you'll also have to hammer and cut sheet metal to get them to clear.

 

[wfo9]

BMC for sure... It's not really a big deal at all.

 

[Jetboy]

I have 285 75 17's on stock Trail wheels. I also have 1" spacers (not a spacer fan - but i was hitting the UCA). I did have to do the BMC, I had to heat gun the inner fender liner that would rub from bushing flex occasionally, and I had to trim a little more front bumper lip. I didn't have to do anything with the fender or pinch weld area. I probably have at least an inch of clearance there, maybe more. 35's would fit if they were only 11" wide. I have no rubbing in the back at all under any condition and I still use stock bumpstops. I have Fox front coilovers and Fox+2" length rear rear shocks and KDSS if that matters for any reason.

 

[Havik]

I have the Toyos in 35x12.5X17. They are a really good tire, the only real downside is their weight. They are much heavier than the Nittos or BFGs. Other than the weight, I have no complaints, they do really well in snow if that matters for you.

 

[Brittrick]

Yes, you will have to BMC. If you take it off road you'll also have to hammer and cut sheet metal to get them to clear.

Where did you have to hammer in to help clear? I have a Pelfrey front bumper so I know not there, and I heard rears will clear even with the 305's..? Is it the back front fender near BMC?

Anyone know if it fits in the spare? Thinking of getting a 5th but don't have my rear bumper yet..

Thanks for all the feedback!

 

[TravelWest01]

Nitto Trail Grapplers

I'm about 7,500 miles into my Nitto Trail Grappler 285-75-17. Lots of trimming and of course BMC when I put them on. Excellent off-road, whether rocks, sand or mud. Only got stuck once in mud, but my fault, not the tires. On road definitely some noise, and also some slippage on curvy country roads, even dry. I have limited snow driving on them, but with zero siping I am considering getting a set of AT snow rated tires for winter driving. My truck is not a daily driver, if I was using it as a daily driver I would use AT tires.

 

[CODERNR]

Old thread... I'm still around here.. Truck is much different now, but still on the 305 MTRs (for now). Great tires that match the truck well for what I do with it.

Still getting a little rubbing from bushing deflection from time to time when crawling up a steep ledge with all the pressure on one tire, but no big deal at all.

[MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] [MENTION=56922]NoOneBetter[/MENTION] [MENTION=44305]weeeee[/MENTION] [MENTION=123976]4Running303[/MENTION] I have been following your threads/discussions about tires sizes on here, and they have been immensely informative and helpful, so I want to start of by thanking you for what you've shared. :thumb:

As I research for myself the jump to a 305/70/17 34" tire I have some questions surrounding your rim choices. I know the minimum seems to be an 8"W rim, but I also see some of you went 8.5"W.
Am I correct in thinking that the 8" would require less modification to fit since it is a half inch narrower? Any other reason to go 8.5" other than look?

I have been checking out the 17x8 Koing Countersteer Type X & FN FX Pro.
The Koing has 10mm offset and 4.1" backspacing.
The FN has 0mm offset and 4.5" backspacing.

Any implications based on their differences with regards to cutting for fitment? Or will the difference pretty much just be in the stance?

 

[4Running303]

[MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] [MENTION=56922]NoOneBetter[/MENTION] [MENTION=44305]weeeee[/MENTION] [MENTION=123976]4Running303[/MENTION] I have been following your threads/discussions about tires sizes on here, and they have been immensely informative and helpful, so I want to start of by thanking you for what you've shared. :thumb:

As I research for myself the jump to a 305/70/17 34" tire I have some questions surrounding your rim choices. I know the minimum seems to be an 8"W rim, but I also see some of you went 8.5"W.
Am I correct in thinking that the 8" would require less modification to fit since it is a half inch narrower? Any other reason to go 8.5" other than look?

I have been checking out the 17x8 Koing Countersteer Type X & FN FX Pro.
The Koing has 10mm offset and 4.1" backspacing.
The FN has 0mm offset and 4.5" backspacing.

Any implications based on their differences with regards to cutting for fitment? Or will the difference pretty much just be in the stance?

With the wider width and narrower rims, you run the risk of popping a bead at lower PSI's. 8" wide isn't probably that bad, but I wouldn't ever run a 7" wide rim like the TRD rims with this size tire.

Fitment wise, you'll still want to do your BMC...then its the same regardless of rim width, you'll hit the rear of the fender well on hard compressions. Hammer the pinch weld inside the back of the wheel well flat which will help. Also, if you have a trail, the forward rocker end cap and bracket behind it will need to be trimmed, removed, or hammered in as well. That seems to be a pretty common spot to hit when compressing the front...usually when turning going down a drop off or switchback.

Hope this helps! Don't let any of it scare you...just do it, wheel it, see where you need to trim or hammer...repeat!

 

[rochmpr]

[MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] [MENTION=56922]NoOneBetter[/MENTION] [MENTION=44305]weeeee[/MENTION] [MENTION=123976]4Running303[/MENTION] I have been following your threads/discussions about tires sizes on here, and they have been immensely informative and helpful, so I want to start of by thanking you for what you've shared. :thumb:

As I research for myself the jump to a 305/70/17 34" tire I have some questions surrounding your rim choices. I know the minimum seems to be an 8"W rim, but I also see some of you went 8.5"W.
Am I correct in thinking that the 8" would require less modification to fit since it is a half inch narrower? Any other reason to go 8.5" other than look?

I have been checking out the 17x8 Koing Countersteer Type X & FN FX Pro.
The Koing has 10mm offset and 4.1" backspacing.
The FN has 0mm offset and 4.5" backspacing.

Any implications based on their differences with regards to cutting for fitment? Or will the difference pretty much just be in the stance?

An 8" vs an 8.5 is not the deal breaker. That's only 1/4" per side. Offset has a bigger factor. I am running the SCS Stealth 6 and had 285/75's and had a fair amount of rubbing after caster set at 4*. I did more cutting, trimming, beating and a more now running 315/70's and have very minimal rub while wheeling. My caster is still about 4*, cams are maxed out and I have UCA's. It seems caster differs for each vehicle.

 

[Havik]

Don't let any of it scare you...just do it, wheel it, see where you need to trim or hammer...repeat!

I second this!

 

[wfo9]

[MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] [MENTION=56922]NoOneBetter[/MENTION] [MENTION=44305]weeeee[/MENTION] [MENTION=123976]4Running303[/MENTION] I have been following your threads/discussions about tires sizes on here, and they have been immensely informative and helpful, so I want to start of by thanking you for what you've shared. :thumb:

As I research for myself the jump to a 305/70/17 34" tire I have some questions surrounding your rim choices. I know the minimum seems to be an 8"W rim, but I also see some of you went 8.5"W.
Am I correct in thinking that the 8" would require less modification to fit since it is a half inch narrower? Any other reason to go 8.5" other than look?

I have been checking out the 17x8 Koing Countersteer Type X & FN FX Pro.
The Koing has 10mm offset and 4.1" backspacing.
The FN has 0mm offset and 4.5" backspacing.

Any implications based on their differences with regards to cutting for fitment? Or will the difference pretty much just be in the stance?

Not much difference between 8" and 8.5.. The narrower rim will hold the bead a bit better and ride slightly taller. The more the tire sticks out (less backspacing) the more scrub and clearance issue, But also if it sits out further it helps a bit with stability. Trade offs. Nice thing about an 8.5" rim is you can run most 35s on the. 8" is about maxed spec wise ona 34. So if you think 35s are ever a possibility... do 8.5

 

[CODERNR]

[MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] [MENTION=113049]rochmpr[/MENTION] [MENTION=129224]Havik[/MENTION] [MENTION=123976]4Running303[/MENTION] thanks again for the helpful info, I believe I am close to having everything planned out.
[MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] I believe you did, but did the rest of you need to relocate the Washer Bottle in order to clear at full lock?

For anyone who is curious, here is what I am thinking, my current setup is:
285/70/17 BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 (32.8" dia. 51.4 lbs)
TRD Pro 17" Rims (~26 lbs)

I would like to move to:
315/70/17 BFG KO2s (34.4" dia. 63 lbs)
Konig Countersteer Type X 17″ Rims (~20.5 lbs)

My reasoning is, the BFG KO2s so far have done quite well for me when doubling for daily driving. They are also .3" taller than the 305/70 Goodyear MTRs [MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] was able to clear, so I think with the addition of the McQueen Fiberglass fenders I want to add, I should be able to do it.
I like the idea of moving to the Konig Countersteer Type X rims because they are 8" width and will help the tires sit taller, and have slightly less backspacing in favor of stability. Most importantly for me though, they are lighter than my current TRD rims.

From what I have read, making the jump to 35's can put a lot of stress on the drive components of the 4R, and from my understanding this is simply due to weight, correct? Tire size doesn't seem to have any affect on CV angle for example (suspension lift to fit bigger tires does), however, moving up to a heavier 8.5"+ rim along with a heavy 35" MT for example, have put others at 100+ lbs per corner, and that could definitively stress the CVs. While revolutions per mile will suffer on a larger tire, and thus gas mileage will suffer, I was unable to find other reasons why 35" tires may cause premature issues on drive components, am I missing something there? Right now that is my issue with moving to a true 35", along with the extra work it takes to fully clear.

Because I am not ready to be carrying extra CVs out to the trail with me, I wanted to avoid issues with weight as much as I could. So with the new tires & rims I would be looking at, per corner:
~6.1 lbs increase, 1.6" height increase, 1.2" width increase
Which I feel are quite reasonable. This would put me at ~83.5 lbs from ~77.4 lbs currently.

My goal is to run the Southern Style Offroad Slimline Hybrid Stage 2 High Clearance Side Protection in order to get my caster set as far forward as I can as well, since I know that was mentioned as a key piece. Anyone see any issues with that versus a full front bumper? Again, trying to save weight where I can:

 

[rochmpr]

[MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] [MENTION=113049]rochmpr[/MENTION] [MENTION=129224]Havik[/MENTION] [MENTION=123976]4Running303[/MENTION] thanks again for the helpful info, I believe I am close to having everything planned out.

[MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] I believe you did, but did the rest of you need to relocate the Washer Bottle in order to clear at full lock?

For anyone who is curious, here is what I am thinking, my current setup is:
285/70/17 BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 (32.8" dia. 51.4 lbs)
TRD Pro 17" Rims (~26 lbs)

I would like to move to:
315/70/17 BFG KO2s (34.4" dia. 63 lbs)
Konig Countersteer Type X 17″ Rims (~20.5 lbs)

My reasoning is, the BFG KO2s so far have done quite well for me when doubling for daily driving. They are also .3" taller than the 305/70 Goodyear MTRs [MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] was able to clear, so I think with the addition of the McQueen Fiberglass fenders I want to add, I should be able to do it.
I like the idea of moving to the Konig Countersteer Type X rims because they are 8" width and will help the tires sit taller, and have slightly less backspacing in favor of stability. Most importantly for me though, they are lighter than my current TRD rims.

From what I have read, making the jump to 35's can put a lot of stress on the drive components of the 4R, and from my understanding this is simply due to weight, correct? Tire size doesn't seem to have any affect on CV angle for example (suspension lift to fit bigger tires does), however, moving up to a heavier 8.5"+ rim along with a heavy 35" MT for example, have put others at 100+ lbs per corner, and that could definitively stress the CVs. While revolutions per mile will suffer on a larger tire, and thus gas mileage will suffer, I was unable to find other reasons why 35" tires may cause premature issues on drive components, am I missing something there? Right now that is my issue with moving to a true 35", along with the extra work it takes to fully clear.

Because I am not ready to be carrying extra CVs out to the trail with me, I wanted to avoid issues with weight as much as I could. So with the new tires & rims I would be looking at, per corner:
~6.1 lbs increase, 1.6" height increase, 1.2" width increase
Which I feel are quite reasonable. This would put me at ~83.5 lbs from ~77.4 lbs currently.

My goal is to run the Southern Style Offroad Slimline Hybrid Stage 2 High Clearance Side Protection in order to get my caster set as far forward as I can as well, since I know that was mentioned as a key piece. Anyone see any issues with that versus a full front bumper? Again, trying to save weight where I can:

I removed the washer bottle with the installation of the front bumper. There are a few aftermarket washer bottle relocation kits out there. Unfortunately, these would not work for me, so I had a custom bottle made at a local fab shop for about $100 bucks and made my own brackets to keep it in the same area.

Washer Relocation

 

[wfo9]

If you want to spend the time fitting 34/35 don't waste time with ko2s IMHO, Run the mtrs... Best tire for mixed use you can get (still). Literally destroys everything else I have seen including the km3s. Compared them side by side this past weekend, but the Km3s may just need more time break in. They did not perform well at all.

The best offroad tires I have ever seen in use was again an MTR sticky version. They never really made them for pubic consumption, but holy crap those things were amazing.