Help!!! Rear hatch won't open.

What did you figure out here? I’m having the same problem.

After the cold weather here in Dallas my rear door stopped working. Since I am man of trying the path of the least resistance, disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds or so was the solution. I am guessing it must be some form of computer error that needs to be reset.
 
My latch assembly was totally rusted out, so I decided to replace it. Afterwards, everything on my hatch worked except for the release handle. When I pressed it nothing would happen. I wouldn’t hear the motor activate even though I could release the latch manually.

I tried disconnecting the battery, removing the ecu b fuse, and normalizing all the doors and windows but nothing helped. Then I removed the wires from the rear ecu, waited a few minutes, and plugged them back in. Now my back window no longer works either, and because it’s stuck down I cant test whether or not the other hatch functions are working.

Any ideas?
 
My latch assembly was totally rusted out, so I decided to replace it. Afterwards, everything on my hatch worked except for the release handle. When I pressed it nothing would happen. I wouldn’t hear the motor activate even though I could release the latch manually.

I tried disconnecting the battery, removing the ecu b fuse, and normalizing all the doors and windows but nothing helped. Then I removed the wires from the rear ecu, waited a few minutes, and plugged them back in. Now my back window no longer works either, and because it’s stuck down I cant test whether or not the other hatch functions are working.

Any ideas?

Have you tried operating the window using your key or just the front dash switch.

I would try the normalizing procedure again.
 
Last edited:
Have you tried operating the window using your key or just the front dash switch.

I would try the normalizing procedure again.

Thanks for the reply. I tried using the back lock, and it will lock/unlock properly but it won’t operate the window.

I tried normalizing again. I may have missed something, but I did the driver’s window, the moon roof, and the door locks. Obviously I cant do the back window as it’s unresponsive.
 
Update:

Somewhere along the way, I hit the power window lock. I turned that off and the back window started working again. I did the normalizing again and now everything works.

Rip first post :ohwell:
 
Update:

Somewhere along the way, I hit the power window lock. I turned that off and the back window started working again. I did the normalizing again and now everything works.

Rip first post :ohwell:

:doh::rofl: Don't feel bad, I can assure you you're not the first to do that, and start ripping your hair out trying to figure out what the hell is the problem!!!
 
My issue seems to be slightly different though. I have reset the ECU, pulled the power from the while tuck and let it set but no change. When I press the switch on the back of the hatch, you can hear the switch click but that's it. No switching sound from the ECU, no motor, nothing. I can release the hatch manfully. When I close the hatch, it will close on it's own, the motor kicks on and pulls the hatch closed. If I press the switch on the hatch right after it closes (before the hatch goes into "locked" position) the the motor will kick back on and release the hatch. So mechanically everything appears to be working. If I close the hatch and wait a few seconds, the hatch locks and it will not open again. It almost seems like the hatch can't tell the truck is unlocked. Does anyone know if there is a lock sensor on the hatch or is that controlled by the ECU?

Here is a link to a short video of the issue:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9Fc-quHllk0dGpCN2wtRDNHdkE/view?usp=sharing

This is the EXACT issue I am having. How did you resolve?
 
Goldielox and Cubbies... hope you all are still around and can give some resolve. Exact same problem. Did the batt reset as in the past when it would just quit, of course that doesn't fix this prob.

Seems to me without opening the trunk I can't get the interior vinyl panel off... like you said cubbies, that small piece w oht destroying the weather barrier just aint gonna cut it.

Any guidance and final outcomes are much appreciated!
 
Alright, so silly little me, you can pull the back panel off w the trunk closed easily exactly as everyine else described... they are just pop plugs after you take the one pull strap bolt out.

Opened mine, cleaned out some leaves and crap that sat at the bottom of the trunk, banged on the actuator case (the big white thing right where the latch is) a fee times, and, boom! :girl: The trunk pulled itself closed.
(No reason for the emoji, just like it... judge me)

Had to reset the battery again to get the remote to unlock it, but otherwise super simple, more than I should have been preoccupied about.

I just hope it is a while before it becomes a problem again.
 
Tailgate wont open

Alright its been 2 years ive tried everything I took off the panel I used penetrating fluid, pulling up on the 2 levers but nothing works. The motor did work before you could hear it and see it push up the 2 levers but it doesn't even do that anymore, everything else works though the window still slides up and down defroster works and so does the windshield washer fluid and rear wiper I have no idea how to get this open to replace the motor because in order to replace it the tailgate has to be opened any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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Go in through the access panel and lift up on the lower of the two levers. That should release your hatch. You may need to have someone push on it from the outside.

Also, open your fuse box under the hood. There is a fuse labeled "ECU-R." Pull that fuse for a minute or so and then put it back in. That re-sets the rear ECU and worked on mine. I ended up having to replace the hatch mechanism because it was soo gummed up.
 
Alright I'll try a few of these options but there aren't many left if these dont work if any at all thanks guys ill post back to let you know If it worked.

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Update: still no luck not sure what im going to do now if I take it to the dealer the only thing I can see them doing is saying Ill have to cut out the whole can tailgate. Lol

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Maybe last time it closed askew.
Try giving a firm push on either side of the door to confirm it's closed tight then try again.
 
Had same issue, here's my post in another thread

Just wanted to say thanks for the post, purchased from amazon and was a piece of cake it install. Remember to disconnect the 2 bottom cables from the ECU at the bottom right of the door while working. Don't do the battery thing sounds like a potential headache, this works just fine. Replace the unit plug it in and then plug the 2 ECU cables back in. Took about 15 mins, however, if your situation is anything like mine it could take some extra time to just get the door open.

Had to remove the whole plastic enclosure from the old unit, zip tie the small release lever up (thanks for the tip wherever I read that) and douse with rust remover wd40. Let sit for a bit and apply pressure or bash the bottom of the door with your feet from the inside, it will slowly begin to work it's way out, takes some perseverance, don't give up! My case I suspect was fairly bad due to the amount of rust, was worried it might be something that wasn't doable on my own, but was! Good luck.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/80823-diy-lift-gate-lock-assembly-5.html#post1972899
 
Tried this and still doesn't work it looks like the lever isn't even attached to the mechanism, now at this point im better off bringing it to my local fire department and bringing out the jaws of life. Haha

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Don't give up! :) The levers felt that way to me as well, but ended up getting pissed off enough and sat in the rear and just started kicking the bottom of the door, saw it give a bit and kept going. I feared I would do damage with how hard I was hitting it and turned out fine... if there was damage, probably still less than the jaws of life. :)

Anyhow, I feel for ya dude, dealt with that for almost a year, was horrible. Saving grace was I still had access by lowering the window, until one winter I accidentally open the window with ice on it and broke the clip on the regulator. Turned out was rusted to shit in there, well components in there were. Rigged the window so it stayed up, that's what prompted to get it all fixed and managed to replace the parts on my own (little help with the window). Can't imagine how much I saved in labor.

Oh, I also removed part of the plastic housing on the lock mechanism and tried to get in as close as I could with the spray to the latch. Not sure if thats helps.
 
Don't give up! :) The levers felt that way to me as well, but ended up getting pissed off enough and sat in the rear and just started kicking the bottom of the door, saw it give a bit and kept going. I feared I would do damage with how hard I was hitting it and turned out fine... if there was damage, probably still less than the jaws of life. :)

Anyhow, I feel for ya dude, dealt with that for almost a year, was horrible. Saving grace was I still had access by lowering the window, until one winter I accidentally open the window with ice on it and broke the clip on the regulator. Turned out was rusted to shit in there, well components in there were. Rigged the window so it stayed up, that's what prompted to get it all fixed and managed to replace the parts on my own (little help with the window). Can't imagine how much I saved in labor.

Oh, I also removed part of the plastic housing on the lock mechanism and tried to get in as close as I could with the spray to the latch. Not sure if thats helps.
Haha at this point im willing to try anything if the kicking doesn't work im going to try the crowbar method [emoji23]

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