Help: VSC/TRAC/ABS/BRAKE lights on plus loud, continuous alarm?

[JURONIN]

I have an 03 V8 with around 160,000 miles.
Was driving home as usual when those lights and a loud, continuous beep started.
I pulled over and turned everything off for a minute. When I restarted all of the lights and the alarm were still going.
I decided to finish my commute home (less than 10 mins, 25 mph streets). Everything seemed normal (except the obnoxious noise).

I got home, parked but then needed to move to another spot.
That time moving the vehicle I had to press VERY hard on the brakes, pedal almost went to the floor, to get it to stop (driveway speed). Brake fluid level is normal.

I'm hesitant to even drive down the street to get the vehicle scanned... any thoughts?

Oh, and as this seems brake related I should add that I have had warped rotors that need resurface/replacement for a while now. I have not gotten around to it because I was told the pads were fine and there was no real safety issue, just some not very smooth braking...

Hi Danny, i was having the same issues, same model year and approximate mileage. What happened is that the motor controlling your hydraulic brake pump is wearing out. (much like how an rc motor will die out over time) I was able to purchase a refurb part and replace this piece without detaching my brake lines. it took about 20 minutes and saved me a big chunk of cash.. let me know if you have other questions


2003 2004 2005 TOYOTA 4RUNNER LEXUS GX470 ABS Brake booster Pump motor (REMAN) | eBay

 

[JURONIN]

This will not work. your ABS and Brake Assembly are different.

 

[AuSeeker]

Hi Danny, i was having the same issues, same model year and approximate mileage. What happened is that the motor controlling your hydraulic brake pump is wearing out. (much like how an rc motor will die out over time) I was able to purchase a refurb part and replace this piece without detaching my brake lines. it took about 20 minutes and saved me a big chunk of cash.. let me know if you have other questions


2003 2004 2005 TOYOTA 4RUNNER LEXUS GX470 ABS Brake booster Pump motor (REMAN) | eBay

This will not work. your ABS and Brake Assembly are different.

Why do you say his is different?

From what I see in the eBay listing it should fit his 2003 T4R.

 

[dannyg]

Turn the key to on the on position, don't start the truck, have someone pump the brakes.
Open the hood and listen for the electric motor on the bottom of the brake booster. It's under the brake fluid reservoir, the black cylindrical thing.

If the motor is not running, that's your problem. Remove the motor. Get it rebuilt for like 200 bucks at any place that rebuilds electrical motors.

If the motor is running constantly, its the accumulator that is bad. Buy a new one on eBay for around $250...

Had a local mechanic replace both of these parts, charged me 2 hours worth of labor...

Really the motor and accumulator are the only 2 parts of the brake booster that go bad, please don't spend the 3 grand the dealer chargers to replace the whole assembly

Edit: Adding some part numbers that might be helpful.
The accumulator is Toyota Part No.: 47950-30010. If this is bad you also need a new O-Ring gasket for it which is Toyota Part No.: 90301-13014

Hi Danny, i was having the same issues, same model year and approximate mileage. What happened is that the motor controlling your hydraulic brake pump is wearing out. (much like how an rc motor will die out over time) I was able to purchase a refurb part and replace this piece without detaching my brake lines. it took about 20 minutes and saved me a big chunk of cash.. let me know if you have other questions


2003 2004 2005 TOYOTA 4RUNNER LEXUS GX470 ABS Brake booster Pump motor (REMAN) | eBay

Hey JURONIN, thanks very much for the info! Any chance you have a write up that replace?
Also, going back to 4RunnerMexico's post, was that how you determined that the motor, not the accumulator, was bad?
Would it be prudent to replace both, or unnecessary?
It sounds like I could replace the motor myself but the accumulator would likely need to be done by a mechanic, yes, no?

Tomorrow a.m., I pick up (likely getting a tow for safety reasons) my 4r from Toyota service center (they still think I may trade in for a new car).
At this point, I just need to decide if I bring it to the mechanic ($340 quote for the install) or home... as I don't want to rack up unnecessary towing fees $$.

 

[dannyg]

Anyone able to help with my last couple of questions ^ ?
Would be much appreciated!

 

[earthrealm]

Anyone able to help with my last couple of questions ^ ?
Would be much appreciated!

to shed more light.
a leaking accumulator will make the motor run too frequently...and eventually burn out, leading to complete brake failure.

yes, the method outlined by op above would tell you if the motor is still good or toast.
turn on the ignition, open the bonnet, depress the brake pedal, if you hear a whirring sound , then thats the motor actuating/pumping to fill up the reservoir, so you can determine right away, that you need to change just the accumulator $190 verus buying a used complete brake-master cylinder assy from ebay for $500 or more.

am still waiting for the step by step process or video of replacing the accumulator, as my motor runs ok, just that i have determined that i have a leaky accumulator, and need to change it out.

finally, the motor may overwork and burn out, taking out the 40amps abs/brake fuse , thus when you replace the complete brake mc assy, it would not work.
so do remember to check that fuse if your motor fails to actuate

 

[Quiero]

Holy fug that is expensive OP.

Is this a common problem?

 

[dannyg]

to shed more light.
a leaking accumulator will make the motor run too frequently...and eventually burn out, leading to complete brake failure.

yes, the method outlined by op above would tell you if the motor is still good or toast.
turn on the ignition, open the bonnet, depress the brake pedal, if you hear a whirring sound , then thats the motor actuating/pumping to fill up the reservoir, so you can determine right away, that you need to change just the accumulator $190 verus buying a used complete brake-master cylinder assy from ebay for $500 or more.

am still waiting for the step by step process or video of replacing the accumulator, as my motor runs ok, just that i have determined that i have a leaky accumulator, and need to change it out.

finally, the motor may overwork and burn out, taking out the 40amps abs/brake fuse , thus when you replace the complete brake mc assy, it would not work.
so do remember to check that fuse if your motor fails to actuate

So I did the test and the MOTOR was definitely NOT running.
I ordered a replacement from eBay. It arrived Tuesday.
I just took a look to see about replacing the motor WITHOUT removing the whole assembly, disconnecting the brake lines etc., like JURONIN mentioned.
I don't see how you could possibly reach both screws holding the motor with it still attached to the vehicle??

Anyway, this video shows exactly what needs to be done (thanks JURONIN!):

YouTube

Seems pretty straight forward, just remove the unit, replace the motor, re-install. I'll just need to bleed the brakes once it's re-installed.

Great! I can knock it out this Saturday.

..... BUT I noticed signs of a leak, please see pics.
The leak appears to be on the OPPOSITE SIDE of the accumulator, around the bottom of the black box.
So, now I am stuck again because I don't know what is leaking/what other part(s) I need.

Any ideas?

(Also thanks for the heads up on the fuse! Will keep that in mind).

 

[dannyg]

Holy fug that is expensive OP.

Is this a common problem?

Yes, apparently it is quite common.

 

[earthrealm]

So I did the test and the MOTOR was definitely NOT running.
I ordered a replacement from eBay. It arrived Tuesday.
I just took a look to see about replacing the motor WITHOUT removing the whole assembly, disconnecting the brake lines etc., like JURONIN mentioned.
I don't see how you could possibly reach both screws holding the motor with it still attached to the vehicle??

Anyway, this video shows exactly what needs to be done (thanks JURONIN!):

YouTube

Seems pretty straight forward, just remove the unit, replace the motor, re-install. I'll just need to bleed the brakes once it's re-installed.

Great! I can knock it out this Saturday.

..... BUT I noticed signs of a leak, please see pics.
The leak appears to be on the OPPOSITE SIDE of the accumulator, around the bottom of the black box.
So, now I am stuck again because I don't know what is leaking/what other part(s) I need.

Any ideas?

(Also thanks for the heads up on the fuse! Will keep that in mind).

Thanks for the youtube link,
if your motor is toast, it was likely caused by a leaking accumulator, so changing just the motor alone, would be postponing the evil day, i think buying a complete used unit will be a better option, and keep your failed unit for spares/back up.

btw, did you check the 40amp fuse, that powers the motor to be sure its not shorted out??

 

[dannyg]

Thanks for the youtube link,
if your motor is toast, it was likely caused by a leaking accumulator, so changing just the motor alone, would be postponing the evil day, i think buying a complete used unit will be a better option, and keep your failed unit for spares/back up.

btw, did you check the 40amp fuse, that powers the motor to be sure its not shorted out??

Hey, no I have not checked the fuse yet, do you know exactly which it is?
Funny now that I think about it, I did hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse box when I was doing the "test".
Would I just be able to pick up a new fuse at an auto part store?
Also, how can I be certain the accumulator is leaking? The fluid level does not seem low btw.

 

[earthrealm]

Hey, no I have not checked the fuse yet, do you know exactly which it is?
Funny now that I think about it, I did hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse box when I was doing the "test".
Would I just be able to pick up a new fuse at an auto part store?
Also, how can I be certain the accumulator is leaking? The fluid level does not seem low btw.

in the engine bay, open the cover and look under, trace the fuse labelled abs/brakes or something like that, its a 40amp fuse...there is another 40amp fuse in there, you cud swap them and try depressing the brakes to observe if the motor will actuate

 

[dannyg]

in the engine bay, open the cover and look under, trace the fuse labelled abs/brakes or something like that, its a 40amp fuse...there is another 40amp fuse in there, you cud swap them and try depressing the brakes to observe if the motor will actuate

So, I checked the fuse, swapped it with another 40, and the motor still did not run.
I think it's fair to assume that leaking fluid got to the motor/connector and caused the motor to go out... Sooo changing just the motor is no longer an option...

At this point I think I am down to 3 choices:

1. change the accumulator o-ring + the motor.
2. change the accumulator + o-ring + the motor.
3. find a reman, or new unit, and replace the whole thing.
(if I get a $600 used one on eBay, I'm not confident that it won't have the same issues down the road).

I was unable to remove the motor with the unit still attached to the vehicle.

I was also unable to remove the master cylinder assembly from the vehicle, I know its 4 bolts underneath the steering wheel holding it to the fire wall, but I cannot reach all 4 bolts (i can only even see 3/4).
Does anyone have instructions/advise on how to remove it?

Last, does anyone have instructions/advise on removing and replacing the accumulator/o-rings? Not sure if that is the source of the leak since it seems to be coming from the bottom of the black box that says AISIN, any thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[hsu4runner]

Having just have the same issue as you described, up to the same spot as leaking I can hopefully offer some advise.

On the nut, the 4th nut is hard to get to, the top left nut. I had to use a swivel connector with a rachet. that was the easiest way to get it out.

I will be replacing the following items for this job:
1. abs pump Motor
2. Accumulator
3. MC piston kit.

To same money, for the pump motor # 1, I'm sending the unit to Eurton Electric for a rewind/rebuilt for around 265.
For the new OEM Accumulator(200 ish) and the OEM MC Piston kit(60ish), you can buy OEM from eBay. you save some money by buying them from United Emirates and shipping seems as fast as in the states. I ordered them on Sat and delivery is Wednesday.

I am hoping that this will fix my issue.

 

[carolinatlc]

Having just have the same issue as you described, up to the same spot as leaking I can hopefully offer some advise.

On the nut, the 4th nut is hard to get to, the top left nut. I had to use a swivel connector with a rachet. that was the easiest way to get it out.

I will be replacing the following items for this job:
1. abs pump Motor
2. Accumulator
3. MC piston kit.

To same money, for the pump motor # 1, I'm sending the unit to Eurton Electric for a rewind/rebuilt for around 265.
For the new OEM Accumulator(200 ish) and the OEM MC Piston kit(60ish), you can buy OEM from eBay. you save some money by buying them from United Emirates and shipping seems as fast as in the states. I ordered them on Sat and delivery is Wednesday.

I am hoping that this will fix my issue.

What year is your 4Runner? Just bought my son a 2004 sport V8 and need to do this. Have part numbers for accumulator and MC kit and where you bought?

 

[hsu4runner]

What year is your 4Runner? Just bought my son a 2004 sport V8 and need to do this. Have part numbers for accumulator and MC kit and where you bought?

I have 2004 V6 SR5.

The part number for my vehicle for the accumulator is 47950-30010, the seller on ebay goes by triplecreations

The part number for my vehicle for the piston kit is 04493-60350, the seller on ebay goes by Partslane.

You'll want to verify for your vehicle for these parts online before ordering though

 

[2Runner2Patagonia]

Hi all - I'm currently on a big road trip from California to Patagonia and this happened to me in Panama. I have a 2003 LTD 2WD with 181,000 miles. I just want to check to see if any of the posters here have come to a final resolution of this problem. I will be reunited with my car in Cartagena tomorrow and hoping to find the best/cheapest solution so I can continue my journey. Thanks!!

 

[OBTone]

ABS pump motor

I also have a 04 4Runner that had similar issue at 180k. Hard pedal, all lights on and continuous beep! The ABS motor is on the bottom of the master cylinder. It has two electrical connections and two allen head bolts. It’s not real fun to get out but with some creative tool combos you can get it out. Send the motor to...

Toyota 4 Runner 4705035010 ABS Motor Repair | Motor Repair & Rewinds | Eurton Electric


Motor was repaired for around $300 with shipping and my pedal has pressure again.

 

[AuSeeker]

I also have a 04 4Runner that had similar issue at 180k. Hard pedal, all lights on and continuous beep! The ABS motor is on the bottom of the master cylinder. It has two electrical connections and two allen head bolts. It’s not real fun to get out but with some creative tool combos you can get it out. Send the motor to...

Toyota 4 Runner 4705035010 ABS Motor Repair | Motor Repair & Rewinds | Eurton Electric


Motor was repaired for around $300 with shipping and my pedal has pressure again.

How long was the turn around time from when you sent your motor to them and got it back?

 

[Cruisertaz]

Brake problems

I have an 04 4runner abs brake problem. The motor run’s like it suppose to but the fluid seams to be going back in the reservoir after it sits for a while. Could it be the accumulator leaking. Need some help with this.