HID len projectors, a possible middleground

[MillerPKA]

Your aiming is not correct. You need to line up the top of the cutoffs, not the top of the driver side with the bottom step of the passenger side. You also need to make sure they are aligned correctly at 25+ feet. Here is a aiming guide I did for G35 coupes, but the same principles apply. Measure the height from ground to the center of the projector lens, then then make sure the cutoffs drop 2-3" @ 25ft.
DIY: How to Properly Aim 06+ Coupe Projectors - G35Driver

My first impression was he did that on purpose. I have my driver light lowered to prevent overbearing light from oncoming traffic, perhaps he had the same thing in mind

 

[broncosi]

Fair enough... but why is it in the oven AFTER installing the projector... re-using the adhesive?

That's what you do. You reverse it. You have to heat the silicon back up and stick the glass back on and then run another bead around for sealing everything back together.

 

[KellyJ]

That's what you do. You reverse it. You have to heat the silicon back up and stick the glass back on and then run another bead around for sealing everything back together.

Ah okay gotcha. If you removed the old adhesive completely and applied a fresh bead of silicone along the edge (after the retrofit) would you still have to stick it in the oven?

 

[Rapter]

the point of those being cheaper though is that the lens sucks. The light output and is near to stock. The only thing your getting is a cutoff(with no colorband). The reason people usethe fx-r lens or the tsx-r lens is the clear cut quality and clearness in them. Yes they are more expensive but your paying for a quality product. If your going to spend the time on a retrofit why not do it with better products?

I'll tell you this the difference is not as drastic as you believe based on price and brand. My output is a hell of a lot better than stock. Not as great as expensive projectors, but not too far off. I was all set to go the FX-R projectors setup from the retrofitsource and decided to hold off for a bit due to the holidays. The real deal retro job requires more work and I imagine you have to be pretty precise with the cutting and drilling when mounting the projector. I didn't feel all that comfortable as if you mess up your out to lose a lot more. With these it's completely irreversible.

The friend that was helping me with it has the TSX kit from RFS and professionally installed by one of the recommended installers from RFS. In the end he paid somewhere around 600-700. Once we were done he was like "wow these are really good and I can't believe how much they cost you. Obviously mine have a better output, but I wonder if these drop in projectors are going to kill the true retrofit business since it's a great bang for the buck". Output is 10X's better than stock. Mine aren't alligned perfectly so don't think that's as good as it gets. If it was warmer and didn't have other things to do we would have dialed them in perfectly.

 

[broncosi]

The real deal retro job requires more work and I imagine you have to be pretty precise with the cutting and drilling when mounting the projector. I didn't feel all that comfortable as if you mess up your out to lose a lot more. With these it's completely irreversible.

No it doesn't? your still mounting a projector in your open housing. You still have to level them and aim them exactly the same?

I wonder if these drop in projectors are going to kill the true retrofit business since it's a great bang for the buck

No probably not, because buying a chrysler 300 is not a phantom just because it looks like one

In the end he paid somewhere around 600-700. Once we were done he was like "wow these are really good and I can't believe how much they cost you.

I got top of the line lens, projectors, wiring kits and ballasts, including all hardware, and shrouds for $425

 

[broncosi]

Ah okay gotcha. If you removed the old adhesive completely and applied a fresh bead of silicone along the edge (after the retrofit) would you still have to stick it in the oven?

you would probably have a hell of a time removing all of the old adhesive. why would you be ok baking one way and not the other?

 

[crackiswack]

My first impression was he did that on purpose. I have my driver light lowered to prevent overbearing light from oncoming traffic, perhaps he had the same thing in mind

how do you know your driver's side is lowered and not the passenger side being higher? Did you aim these using any of the various guides?

 

[MillerPKA]

I did it myself at a body shop in Atl, they had a wall dedicated for it with all the right markings. Good thinking though.

Broncosi, notice the thread title....I'm not justifying this as something its not. I was pretty up front with what I believed it should be. I just talked to another person who did this and apparently it is a lot simpler than a retrofit kit. Never claimed it to be better than these HID kits, but when these pop in easy and throw out better light with a fifth of the effort and cost you should be ready for an apology Ms. Defensive :bigok:

 

[t4r505]

A lot of hostility around here lately haha
But MillerPKA how much did you pay becaude there are a lot of different choices on ebay and how long until we get to see them on your 4Runner

 

[MillerPKA]

Its just funny how people misunderstand things, gotta nip it in the bud.

I ordered them from nimoto or something I don't have the invoice. The various eBay retailers are just going to play with price and shipping to attract you (like $68.99 with $35.99 shipping or $105 free shipping) but out the door you shouldn't be paying more than 100-105. These are shipping from China so I would guess a couple weeks, Rapter told me he got them in 2 so my guess is Tuesday after next I'll have a write up going.

 

[broncosi]

A lot of hostility around here lately haha

Yea there is because there are people who spend the time and the extra money to do it 100% and then there are people who spend the time to find a way around spending the money to do it right the first time. I was exactly like that when i first bought my 4runner. And don't get me wrong, yes it is more expensive. I am young, in school, and have a job, so I'm not some career savy established professional making bank. I just saved and bought the parts as they came up for sale on HID Planets forum.

They way your talking about these projectors is like you can't put an HID kit in them which is making me think the lights are sealed in to the projector. IF this is the case, what are you going to do when they burn out?(keep in mind these bulbs that come with these types are projectors are worth about as much as the batteries that come in your tv remote).

I'm not trying to rag and bag on you about this, i just don't understand why you don't take your time and do it the right way. Worst case scenario, you screw up your headlights and buy a new set for $100. If your into headlights enough to do a sort of retrofit, eventually you WILL do one and kick yourself for spending the money now, on this instead of going straight to a real retro. I am just trying to help you save money here and not waste it on some crap product.

But as we all say here on T4R, It's your 4Runner, do what you like.

 

[MillerPKA]

Because I spend thousands of dollars elsewhere on the truck. This is a 'bang for the buck' thread and when it has acceptable light output and acceptable price, then the product itself is acceptable. Same thing goes for spacer lifts compared to full suspension, to each their own and its all about what people want. The main case here is 100 dollars and a shorter amount of time to install is value to me, whereas its being said 400 more dollars and a hell of a lot more time isn't meriting an equivalent value. This goes back to the main purpose of the thread, to find an acceptable mid-range high-output alternative that won't break the bank or blind others, everything else about upgrading to your full kits is erroneous as its not everyones intention to spend this much.

 

[broncosi]

This goes back to the main purpose of the thread, to find an acceptable mid-range high-output alternative that won't blind others

There aren't HIDs in them though so how would you blind anyone as opposed to your stock open housing? And its not 'high-output', the bulb that comes with it is actually less than your stock bulbs at advance auto, the light is simply being focused better than your open housing.

When it has acceptable light output and acceptable price, then the product itself is acceptable.

I have tried these setups before and my only issue is trying to understand how it is value if it doesn't last 3 months? and you have to open up your headlights and replace the projector ever?

I swear I'm not trying to fight with you on this I just don't understand if you have thousands to spend why not spend an extra $300 and do it all the way? You know you'd be happier!:thumb3:

 

[MillerPKA]

Ah gotcha, yeah I said on the other page the only thing to be decided is longevity. I just don't have another 300 to spend and I wanted some blingy lights to be honest, but classic blingy. White angel eyes sounded good. And with down payments going on a new engine and tranny as well sas I felt it was a good 100 bucks spent. At the very least, hopefully after I do the before/afters I can say if you plan on spending 120 on an ebay pnp why not go this route. Just more for the budget conscious I guess, even though I have lots of money tied up right now in it I only wanted to spend a little on lights, hopefully I'll be happy with them but I'll give an unbiased review when they go on.

 

[broncosi]

ok i rest my case on the fact that you know what your getting and it looks like you have to giant hellas if you need any more light

 

[t4r505]

It would be awesome to do.a real retrofit but I would probably screw it up and it would be much more expensive.
Those projectors supposedly have a modified d2s bulb they are rebased I guess - saw it on customtacos

 

[Rapter]

There aren't HIDs in them though so how would you blind anyone as opposed to your stock open housing? And its not 'high-output', the bulb that comes with it is actually less than your stock bulbs at advance auto, the light is simply being focused better than your open housing.



I have tried these setups before and my only issue is trying to understand how it is value if it doesn't last 3 months? and you have to open up your headlights and replace the projector ever?

I swear I'm not trying to fight with you on this I just don't understand if you have thousands to spend why not spend an extra $300 and do it all the way? You know you'd be happier!:thumb3:

I think the problem is you're talking about the wrong kit. This kit does actually use HID's. The kit brings the projectors and HID bulbs. You have to purchase the ballast separately. The seller that I bought mine from states that in their ad and offers you the option to purchase them before shipping the kit. After looking back with shipping I paid $100 and I had a few ballast left over from previous HID plug and play kits so that's why it only cost me $100. The cost of the kit and ballast from them is $140.

when it has acceptable light output and acceptable price, then the product itself is acceptable. The main case here is 100 dollars and a shorter amount of time to install is value to me, whereas its being said 400 more dollars and a hell of a lot more time isn't meriting an equivalent value. Upgrading to your full kits is erroneous as its not everyones intention to spend this much.

That's exactly how I feel and why I feel it was such a great buy. It's now a 10 yr old truck and want to dump as little money into her as possible. I'm not going to half ass it, but I'm not looking for the best or to impress anyone.

 

[LINY4Runner]

I can't wait to see a writeup because I'm still a little unsure about installation...

 

[MillerPKA]

I'm gaining more knowledge of what's expected with every correspondence with him. He may be in the middle of a write up but my lights are 2 weeks out