HID Retrofit Questions - how much to trim housings & fitment

[JohnOfTheJungle]

I’ve slowly accumulated the parts needed to do a retrofit. I went with the TRS mini d2s projector, Apollo 3.0 shroud, 110mm halos and I’m using TYC housings.

Going into this I didn’t really know what to expect as far needs for cutting and cramming stuff together and figured I’d just dive into it.

So I took apart the housings last night, dremeled out the area for the projector to fit, and did some test fits.

A few things aren’t totally clear to me. First - I will have to dremel out way more of the housing to get the projector to sit where I can firmly mount it with all 4 corners of the projector touching the housing.

In your opinion is it cool to have it firmly mounted on one side with the projector mount against the housing - but then floating on the other (still with all 4 corners bolted in)? Here are some pics:

Second - this shroud is huge. It’s clear that I will have to cut the shroud quite a bit to get it to fit. If I don’t trim it there would be about a 1+ inch gap between the projector and the housing if I don’t trim it:

What I’m really trying to understand here is how flush does the whole projector and shroud assembly need to sit against the housing? With this setup I think mine will be floating in the middle of the housing, connected with the 4 mounting bolts at the back.







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[apohl17]

I don't know if this helps much now, because I used the locking ring supplied with the d2s 4.0 projectors to mount. This way all I had to do was get a flush surface (first pic, modified top, unmodified bottom)

This way I had the whole projector sitting forward freely, without shroud contact of the reflector basin except for a bit on the bottom that I had to trim off.

As long you can securely mount the projector in the housing pointing "straight", and allow for a bit of rotational adjustment, you should be able to get a solid beam pattern with the exterior bucket adjustments.

For reference I am using Turbine shrouds and diffused switchback halos. Hope this helps.

 

[Twan]

Oh wow, the whole point of that kit is that you just remove the bulb and that little shield, pop the silicone washer over the threaded shaft, then use the locating washer to align it in the factory housing, then screw on the lock ring.

 

[Twan]

That kit fits just fine with the Panamera shrouds with a halo mounted on the front.

 

[Twan]

I'd recommend watching this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CIlPo6S5-M

With 4Runners, you don't even need to sand the rear flat like he does in the video.

 

[cblock406]

I also used the locking ring/plate adapter, which means no dremeling of the housing other than a tiny little raised area on the inside of the opening.

You cut too much off of your housing to use the plate adapter. Now you will have to bolt that projector straight into the housing, which is going to make aligning them a big PIA.

I'd consider getting new housing and starting over, it took me two times to get mine just right where I was completely happy with them. You can see what I did if you look at my build thread.

 

[JohnOfTheJungle]

HID Retrofit Questions - how much to trim housings & fitment

Thanks for the info everyone. Guess I went in a little hot with the ol’ dremel. It just seemed like all the videos I watched it was assumed you would be cutting and epoxying.

Anyway - I only cut one housing up, still have both my OEM housings and one TYC unmolested.

I screwed the projector into the TYC, it slants pretty far downward and at a weird angle to the side. It’s tough to really see in the pictures. I can just barely get the shroud to fit no chance the shroud will fit if I really mash it in there.

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[BrianSD_42]

Not trying to sound like a jerk but did you read the "how to" threads for doing retrofits? A lot of people don't. The Tutorial and Documentation v2 sub-sticky has these threads and you can also find them by using the "how to search" thread/sticky in my signature.

It looks like you missed that you only need to barely cut enough to get the shaft in. What you did is going to make it way way harder to align properly. You did an FX-R type cut job but installed mini-D2S. That's a tough spot to be in.

 

[Dezert4Runner]

Yep, I botched a headlight bucket trying to push a FX-R projector as far back as I could in there. That projector (FX-R) relies on the rounded back of the projector to swivel against the headlight bucket to do the aiming, so by having the flat mounting hole area up against the back of the bucket, I ran out of real estate to properly aim them. I had to buy another TYC headlight assembly and start over.

Like others mentioned, you were better off using the threaded portion with locking but to make it easier for the mini D2S. You may be starting this side over!

 

[JohnOfTheJungle]

HID Retrofit Questions - how much to trim housings & fitment

Not trying to sound like a jerk but did you read the "how to" threads for doing retrofits? A lot of people don't. The Tutorial and Documentation v2 sub-sticky has these threads and you can also find them by using the "how to search" thread/sticky in my signature.

It looks like you missed that you only need to barely cut enough to get the shaft in. What you did is going to make it way way harder to align properly. You did an FX-R type cut job but installed mini-D2S. That's a tough spot to be in.

No worries, not offended - I did look through your thread, and a few others many times over. I assumed the FX-R was the standard method and I didn’t realize there was a difference between the projectors and the way they mount up. Just assumed from all I saw that I had to cut the back like the others did.



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[Ed_C]

Mori 4.0s do have a slight downward tilt as designed even if the mounting surface is perfectly level.

You can still save the headlight you cut up by using the "nut and bolt" mounting method. There are two lower holes and one upper on the projector that match the "facets" on the headlight reflector. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlCPj92IP-Q explains the method.

 

[JohnOfTheJungle]

Just wanted to update you guys that I ended up ordering another passenger TYC headlight so I’d be able to just plug n play the Mini D2S projectors.

Worked on it a few hours a night the last few nights and got them hooked up tonight. Still need to wire up the halos (ordered a relay kit from amazon, on the way) and also get the aim dialed in, but they’re a huge improvement and the high beam is ridiculous!

Didn’t take any pics of them on the runner yet, but here they are almost done.

Painted them with Duplicolor matte bronze wheel paint (which I plan to do my wheels in too if I ever get around to it)

Thanks for advice everyone, I’ll drop some more pics of them on the truck later.


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[JohnOfTheJungle]

HID Retrofit Questions - how much to trim housings & fitment

Here are a few pics of them on the truck

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[Uglyducky]

How does the vehicle handle the extra power needed for HID?

 

[phattyduck]

How does the vehicle handle the extra power needed for HID?

Assuming you use 35W ballasts for your HIDS, it is LESS power than the stock halogens... Even so, most kits come with an auxiliary wiring harness with extra relays that bypass the stock system.

-Charlie

 

[JohnOfTheJungle]

HID Retrofit Questions - how much to trim housings & fitment

How does the vehicle handle the extra power needed for HID?

Yea what [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] said. I got my kit from the retrofit source and it comes with its own relay and power cables, so it bypasses factory wiring and hooks straight into the battery.

Power draw should be equivalent or less than stock, and the only thing with factory wiring that’s used is one of the old headlight connectors to signal the relay to switch on and switch to hi beams


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[Twan]

That bumper must be a lifesaver in the city.

And yeah, I believe the only real significant power draw is when the headlights are first ignited. That harness is super nice to have too, makes hooking everything up much easier.

 

[cblock406]

Here are a few pics of them on the truck

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Looks great! Glad to hear you started with a new light, no shame in that.

 

[JohnOfTheJungle]

Got my halos wired up, stoked! Used a separate relay and switch and wired straight to the battery.

Probably overkill since I’m sure they pull like 2 watts, not sure why I didn’t just buy a switch, oh well.

Wiring under the hood is crazy, need to do a blue sea fuse box soon.

Two questions:

1- what’d you guys do about the dust shields that are supposed to cover the igniter? I kept the TYC shield and cut the hole bigger. It’s not water right but pretty good. Is potential water ingress from the back a big deal?

2- I forgot to do the extended breathers with the dust filter. How essential is that? I guess better safe than sorry, rather not have to pull them apart again.



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