High idle is really pissing me off!!!
- Thread starter Dinabox
- Start date
Markjr
New member
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/111492-random-engine-idle-solution.html
See if this helps, this is my post from a while back. You could try this and your PCV valve. Both are cheap to replace.
See if this helps, this is my post from a while back. You could try this and your PCV valve. Both are cheap to replace.
mmml4
New member
OP said it was manual tranny, no cable to adjust. Dashpot.
lol I guess there are alot of mechanics that blow them selves up then. Be impressive for the combustion to travel back up the valves and out the intake. You could also use C02 and listen for the engine to stall if you arent comfortable with fuels. When you use propane you arent flooding the area, it doesnt take much to get the idle to bump up. If there was a spark somewhere it would just be a quick flash, not a big boom.
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BrianSD_42
New member
Sorry but while I am sure there are "plenty" of mechanic that spray propane into an engine bay with the engine running that doesnt make it any less dangerous.
There are probably mechanics out there who clean bike chains in gasoline as well.
Running engine ... pumping propane into the engine bay ... hope you enjoyed having a face.
Sorry but while I am sure there are "plenty" of mechanic that spray propane into an engine bay with the engine running that doesnt make it any less dangerous.
There are probably mechanics out there who clean bike chains in gasoline as well.
Running engine ... pumping propane into the engine bay ... hope you enjoyed having a face.
To each their own bud, like I said you can use C02 if you are worried bout it.
BrianSD_42
New member
Its all good. I've never done either but the propane thing strikes me (non-mechanic) as a bit on the wild side.
Dinabox
New member
So I installed the TRD O ring TB gasket, new NGK wires, new PCV and got all new hoses and clamps for everything that comes off the TB. Still high idle!!!!!!! Did all of this with the negative battery terminal off and both the EFI relay and EFI fuse disconnected. I guess I'll be looking at junkyards for a "new" to me TB. So frustrating!!!!
Drcoffee
Senior Member
You can use less volatile agents than propane. I use WD40 and sometimes carb cleaner. You simply need something to alter the idle speed when it gets sucked into a vacuum leak.
Did you try a shot of carb cleaner in the hole in front of the throttle plate? Give it 2 shots in the hole, with the plastic air tube off, fire it up 3 or 4 times. It worked for me.
Did you try a shot of carb cleaner in the hole in front of the throttle plate? Give it 2 shots in the hole, with the plastic air tube off, fire it up 3 or 4 times. It worked for me.
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It is just a little bit. Enough for a torch flame. The engine fan blows it away also. I don't see how it could be dangerous except someone on the internet said so.
In response to the actual problem, squirt some PB on the shaft on the outside of the TB and drive it a bit. Mine did that and mellowed out to normal.
Drcoffee
Senior Member
Leave the MAF plugged in. But I'm not sure it matters. It will start and then stall out, repeat 4 times. Reconnect the intake and start it. The carb cleaner should free the valve and the vacuum should suck out the crud.
I removed the plastic runner from the truck but if I recall, I think I left the MAF plugged in. Sorry for the confusion. The computer would read the MAF signal intially but when it didn't register any values once the truck started it shut it down.
I removed the plastic runner from the truck but if I recall, I think I left the MAF plugged in. Sorry for the confusion. The computer would read the MAF signal intially but when it didn't register any values once the truck started it shut it down.
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I do know you have to be careful with carb cleaner and fuel injectors, I had an instructor back in the day tell me that carb cleaner is corrosive enough to destroy injectors. I think this is only if you are putting carb cleaner into the fuel system and it passes through the injectors. You would probably be safe going through the intake.
That being said I would make sure the maf or the iac dont come into contact with it.
Ya I remember now, since carb cleaner penetrates through and into metal it can reach the electrical windings of an injector. Those windings have a coating on the wire so it doesn't short out on itself. The carb cleaner can eat through the coating and cause the injector to short out, thus becoming useless. I have personally never seen it specifically but I wouldn't risk it, throttle body cleaner costs just about as much.
Just be careful about what you buy, there are some carb cleaners out there that will destroy stuff while there are other carb cleaners that are a bit weaker that probably wont.
Just be careful about what you buy, there are some carb cleaners out there that will destroy stuff while there are other carb cleaners that are a bit weaker that probably wont.
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Drcoffee
Senior Member
Come on guys! We are talking about misting the areas where vacuum leaks might be, not hosing down the engine top. They sell MAF cleaner as well but its more expensive. A quick shot near a vac leak will cause a momentary rise in engine speed. That's what you are looking for. I didnt think I had to explain that. WD40 will do the same thing as it is combustible but not as volatile. In fact WD40 is a great starter fluid for lawnmowers. On the first use of the season, I pull the spark plug and spay some in the cylinder to lube the piston rings and fire it up. Works great.
PS the exposed portion of the fuel injectors on our trucks have a plastic housing so unless you bathe them in carb/TB cleaner, you will be just fine.
Just for the record: Don't spray copious amounts of combustible fluids on a hot engine. Flash fires can be nasty.
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Drcoffee
Senior Member
Yes it will set a code. But once you reconnect the intake and MAF, it should run fine. Any parts store should be able to reset your CEL codes for free.
Dinabox
New member
Well I finally fixed my high idle!!!! Just wanted to show you guys what did it. I bought a used IAC valve off a member here hoping that was it but no dice. So I was pretty frustrated as that's the only thing I hadn't replaced. I randomly loosened the nut on the front that makes the butterfly valve turn and voila! The bolt head was soooo stripped, had about 2 threads if that on it. So I couldn't tighten the damn thing which was making the linkage not go down all the way causing a consistently high idle. Went to a junkyard bought a used TB for $75 had to "install" cruise control on it because mine had cc and this didn't. That took an hour or so but now everything runs perfect!!! So just something to check if any of you are having trouble with a high idle before you go buying and replacing **** like I did.
Here is a pic
Here is a pic
Crashnrondo
New member
Thanks for the update, glad you got it fixed up!
