Hitch Shackle Recovery Point - Bad Idea?

pbcolt

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I started a thread over on Expo Portal with the same question and got some varying opinions. Thought I'd post the same topic here and see if anyone had any further vehicle-specific knowledge/insight.

Are hitch mounted shackles (Amazon.com: Smittybilt 29312B Receiver Hitch D-Ring with 3/4-Inch Shackle for 2-Inch Receivers: Automotive) paired with a recovery strap (ARB or similar) safe or smart to use considering the design of our hitches?

Here's the Expo Portal link: Tow Hitch Rating and Recoveries - Expedition Portal
 
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I have used that a few times with no issues but it wasn't for anything bigger than my vehicle. Even a couple yanks didn't seem to bother it. I wouldn't go running around with that solution as a dedicated, recovery vehicle though.

Good question that at least raises awareness about being smart with what we are trying to do with these rigs.
 
Funny, I literally just had one of these delivered 1hr ago. I test fitted it and its a pretty loose fit. I don't have much experience with these receivers...is like an 1/8th inch of play pretty standard?
 
Funny, I literally just had one of these delivered 1hr ago. I test fitted it and its a pretty loose fit. I don't have much experience with these receivers...is like an 1/8th inch of play pretty standard?

I have the Smittybuilt version and it has a little bit of play.
You should be fine.
Even the ball hitch adapter for towing has play in it.

Receiver Hitch D-Rings - Smittybilt

It did not come with the pin so I purchased a locking pin. Not-so-nice people tend to steal these things although I put it on and take it off as soon as the pull is done.
 
I use a Smittybilt Beaver Tail step (rated for 10,000lbs) with a BOLT Lock hitch pin lock (it uses your ignition key as the unlock key). I pulled out a Titan using the beaver tail. A 3/4 shackle hooks to it just fine. Here's a photo of both.

 
hitch is good to go. Anyone that says otherwise either is trying to recover a tank or just doesnt know what they are doing
 
I use a Smittybilt Beaver Tail step (rated for 10,000lbs) with a BOLT Lock hitch pin lock (it uses your ignition key as the unlock key). I pulled out a Titan using the beaver tail. A 3/4 shackle hooks to it just fine. Here's a photo of both.


Which boltlock did you pickup?? I tried getting one for my 16, and the key wouldn't work. Looked it up, and the 16 keys were not listed as supported..
 
2nd recovery point

Try adding a 2nd recovery loop at the right rear corner. Same part as the left corner. The threaded bolt holes are already there. The tailpipe is right below it. I plan to move my tailpipe to a side exit so I can fit one of these. Then use a 10' bridle rope with a snatch block to equalize the load to each point.
$118 for the part, plus bolts and $50 for the muffler shop to move the tailpipe.
 
Which boltlock did you pickup?? I tried getting one for my 16, and the key wouldn't work. Looked it up, and the 16 keys were not listed as supported..

I bought the bolt lock for "Toyota". My 2016 TRDPro key worked just fine with it.
 
Which boltlock did you pickup?? I tried getting one for my 16, and the key wouldn't work. Looked it up, and the 16 keys were not listed as supported..

I bought the bolt lock for "Toyota". My 2016 TRDPro key worked just fine with it.

^^^This!

you need the one for toyota. BOLT makes a TON of types of these for all different manufacturers, i accidentally bought the wrong one off amazon first and had to return it and get the correct one.

The trick is to go to bolts website and fine the one specified for your truck. Since there is nothing special between keys and 5th gen years (unless you have the smart key).

I also got to try mine recently against another 4runner key (2013) from a member on here. I was curious if it would unlock for another 4runner key. it DIDNT! yay. pretty cool product to say the least.
 
^^^This!

you need the one for toyota. BOLT makes a TON of types of these for all different manufacturers, i accidentally bought the wrong one off amazon first and had to return it and get the correct one.

The trick is to go to bolts website and fine the one specified for your truck. Since there is nothing special between keys and 5th gen years (unless you have the smart key).

I also got to try mine recently against another 4runner key (2013) from a member on here. I was curious if it would unlock for another 4runner key. it DIDNT! yay. pretty cool product to say the least.

Yeah here is the 5/8 lock
BOLT Receiver Locks 7023584 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
? BOLT Locks by Strattec
 
Try adding a 2nd recovery loop at the right rear corner. Same part as the left corner. The threaded bolt holes are already there. The tailpipe is right below it. I plan to move my tailpipe to a side exit so I can fit one of these. Then use a 10' bridle rope with a snatch block to equalize the load to each point.
$118 for the part, plus bolts and $50 for the muffler shop to move the tailpipe.

If only you had a nice formed steel bridle welded into the frame that you could use with a mount specifically for towing built right into it. That would be pretty awesome. My trail edition came with one from the factory! :)
 
Tow hitch vs bridle and 2 points

If only you had a nice formed steel bridle welded into the frame that you could use with a mount specifically for towing built right into it. That would be pretty awesome. My trail edition came with one from the factory! :)

I imagine you mean the trailer hitch with a hitch to shackle adapter in the tube. Good point - it's already there. For $75 you can add the better, lighter aluminum hitch adapter block mentioned here on page 1 plus add a $15 to $20 shackle. Only problem is you can't equalize the load to both corners when pulling at an angle. For a few dollars more you can have two tow points. The bridle rope and snatch block are also useful on the front tow loops.
 
Do you need to equalize the load at each corner? Why? Have you ever seen a Toyota frame damaged from towing from the receiver?- as far as I know it has never in the history of Toyota been done. I'm open to convincing otherwise if you could find one example anywhere ever of this happening.
 
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Some great advice here. One thing I also like about using the hitch is that it keeps everything nice and centered -- whether you are doing the pulling or being pulled. I find this helps a lot when you are doing the pulling on slippery ground and need to distribute good traction all around.

I added a Curt front receiver hitch to my Toyota FJC to help with being recovered too (sometimes it's better to be pulled forward -- or I can yank the person in front of me out without having to turn around on a tight trail). It's also a great way to carry my cargo basket up front for camping (and not have all the grear in the way when trying to enter the back).
 
OP, great topic to discuss. Glad you brought it up!

I read through the Exp Portal thread you linked. I agree that Toyota may not have specifically design the trailer hitch with recoveries in mind. However, given that its expected to provide a certain amount of towing capability over a variety of terrain, I think the trailer hitch is a valid recovery point for most types of snatch recoveries.

I say "most" because if I got my 4runner bogged down in some deep, thick mud, I'd probably look at using a winch or some other method before I resorted to using a snatch strap or rope. The speed at which snatch recoveries take place means that if you're rig is stuck in real bad way, you probably won't find out until something snaps or breaks...at least that's my take on that issue.

Otherwise, for situations where the vehicle just needs a little help or tug to get through/over an obstacle, the recovery hitch method seems suitable IMHO.
 
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