horrible numbers after alignment, after lift and VCS light

[Jono.ful]

I took my truck in for alignment today after putting in my ome springs and bilstein 5100/5160 (set @ 0). The tech had a lot of trouble, and couldn't get the castor anywhere close to spec, although the camber is much better. Also, the traction control light is always on now, which it was not before.
I'm going to try the zero point calibration tonight (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...celeration-sensor-zero-point-calibration.html), even though he said he completed the procedure during the alignment. we'll see how that goes, failing that, it's going back to the stealership tomorrow :redbrick:

 

[FERAL 4R]

Go somewhere else. Seriously.

 

[ATL4R]

I took my truck in for alignment today after putting in my ome springs and bilstein 5100/5160 (set @ 0). The tech had a lot of trouble, and couldn't get the castor anywhere close to spec, although the camber is much better. Also, the traction control light is always on now, which it was not before.
I'm going to try the zero point calibration tonight (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...celeration-sensor-zero-point-calibration.html), even though he said he completed the procedure during the alignment. we'll see how that goes, failing that, it's going back to the stealership tomorrow :redbrick:

Those numbers actually seem about right for what you are working with. Your tires will wear fine, but your steering may seem very easy and "easy to wander" on the highway.

It seems you are using 885's on a vehicle with no bumper or winch (according to your signature). A vehicle with very little additional weight should run 884's up front. A vehicle with a bumper OR winch, run 885's. A vehicle with Bumper AND winch, run 887's.

If you had the 884's in there, getting your caster up to 3.2 would still be a challenge, but you could get a lot closer than what you've got now.

For instance, I run TOYOTA upper control arms with 887s (winch and bumper) and my caster comes in right at 2.9 driver and 3 passenger. Drives just fine for me.

While this has nothing to do with your alignment - What size tires do you have? I'm curious how high the bottom of your fender sits from the ground.

 

[Jono.ful]

budbuild hidden whinch plate and warn m8000 are coming soon, hence the 885's, and a stiffer ride and reduced nose dive were as high a priority as the lift. the alignment numbers aren't really what is concerning me though, as the camber numbers came in ok and it drives fine. I'm planning to get UCA's before I move to 285/70/17's (still on stock size now) in the spring. Right now I`m more worried about the lack of traction control. I'm wondering if the tech screwed something up, seeing as it was working fine when I took it in. Going out after dinner to do the zero point cal.

 

[Jono.ful]

I'm curious how high the bottom of your fender sits from the ground.

front bumper is 17 1/4" fenders are both 37 1/2" through the center of the wheels

 

[ATL4R]

front bumper is 17 1/4" fenders are both 37 1/2" through the center of the wheels

OK - I think your tech could have gotten a little more caster then. I'm on 887's with winch, bumper, and 265/70R17's and my driver fender is at 37.10 and passenger around 37.40.

Once you add that winch mount and winch, you will probably come down to 37.25 or so and I would think you could get close to 3 on the caster then.

Agree with you on the traction control. Nothing is more frustrating than leaving the dealership with a problem you didn't have when you got there!!!!! Try that zero point calibration like the other users have said. I didn't have to do it, but if I recall - make sure you do it on a flat area with a nice flat stretch of road ahead of you... I think the end of the procedure requires you to drive straight on a flat roadway for a few hundred feet.

 

[Qjake]

So he couldn't even get the caster within range? Really?? How's it handle with the caster as is, very floaty and wants to wander I assume.

As to the note the tech left...BS! With the OEM uca's it is possible to get +3 it just takes some finagling which obviously this tech didn't care to take the time to do it. As mentioned above, take it elsewere!!

Did you have any dash lights on prior to bringing it in for alignment? Usually dash lights after lift are from breaking or stretching the sensor wire that goes to either front wheel and usually happens when swapping struts. It may not be a visible break so test them with a continuity tester to see which one is bad.

Good luck with the alignment!

 

[Qjake]

BTW you'll be wasting your time with the zero point cal if you have a bad sensor wire. Be sure they are both good before doing the calibration.

 

[Jono.ful]

There were no dash lights on whatsoever when I took it in and I made sure to relocate the abs wires during the install to avoid this very problem. there is still lots of slack on the wires after the lift as well. I leaned hard on the breaks in the snow on the way home from the shop and the abs is definitely still functioning

 

[Jono.ful]

...and the only light on now is for traction control

 

[Jono.ful]

zero point cal = fail
Slip indicator light is on during the entire process, and will not go off

 

[StRanger7032]

Ok, it may sound like a dumb suggestion, but have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and then re-connecting it. I've done this before and its actually fixed some weird warning light problems on other vehicles I've had. Its kind of like like rebooting the ECU. It might be worth a try...its free at least!

 

[Jono.ful]

Ok, it may sound like a dumb suggestion, but have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and then re-connecting it. I've done this before and its actually fixed some weird warning light problems on other vehicles I've had. Its kind of like like rebooting the ECU. It might be worth a try...its free at least!

Yes, no dice.

 

[harper7]

Get someone with a OBDII reader to check if there are any DTC's(Diagnostic Trouble Codes) as usually it's a bad abs wire and you can't see it from the outside . If I remember right the DTC is 0265 for ABS electrical fault and a open wire. If you do the zero point calibration ,the directions have to be followed to a tee or else it doesn't work.

That's strange that an alignment tech would say he did a zero point calibration for an alignment. Not sure he knows what he's doing if he can't even get close to minimum caster , even with stock UCA's and a lift he should be able to get at least 2.0 caster with camber in spec.He's not even in the ballpark.

To align a Toyota 5th Gen with IFS.....Loosen both eccentric bolts on the LCA's just enough so you can turn them,adjust rear eccentric to get the most caster as they watch the machine readout....adjust front to bring camber into spec as they watch the readout......adjust rear one to get the most caster again because it will lower when you adjust the front eccentric to bring camber in as they watch the machine readout, bring camber into spec again from the front eccentric and keep repeating until you find a happy medium with the highest caster reading and camber still in spec. and torque them down then adjust toe last on the tie rods.
I'm going to do an alignment Wednesday as I just put on different UCA's last week and need one and will try remember to take some pics.

 

[GrantK]

Jono,
I had the same problem with my TE after lifting, the slip light wouldn't go out. It turned out to be the calibration process. For me it was section 5, PERFORM CRAWL CONTROL CALIBRATION that I wasn't doing right (I had to hold in the switch while turning the switch to each position).

Your dealer can probably do the calibration for you to make sure it's done right but you should be able to do it your self and save some time. Just make sure you do each step in sequence and do all the steps, no short cuts.

 

[jbstrd]

As mentioned above, make sure to follow the steps on the calibration exactly. Also, make sure to complete all steps. If the Downhill Assist Control (SR5/Limited) or Crawl Control (Trail) steps are skipped, the light will stay on.

As far as alignment, just get UCA's and call it a day. Metal Tech has Light Racing for $375 on their Cyber Monday sale.

Hope you get this figured out.

 

[jbstrd]

Jono,
I had the same problem with my TE after lifting, the slip light wouldn't go out. It turned out to be the calibration process. For me it was section 5, PERFORM CRAWL CONTROL CALIBRATION that I wasn't doing right (I had to hold in the switch while turning the switch to each position).

Your dealer can probably do the calibration for you to make sure it's done right but you should be able to do it your self and save some time. Just make sure you do each step in sequence and do all the steps, no short cuts.

GrantK beat me to it:biggrin2:

 

[Jono.ful]

I'm going to do an alignment Wednesday as I just put on different UCA's last week and need one and will try remember to take some pics.

Oh? Getting rid of the Total Chaos? What's the reason for the change? Of all the options out there, I think their uca's are at the top of my list.

Thanks for all the advice, I don't care what the others say, you guys are ok in my books. I'm going to make a better test lead at work today with some proper end ferrules to do the zero point cal again, and I'll grab my fluke for a continuity test. We'll see how it goes...

 

[Jono.ful]

zero point cal = success!

I must have missed something when I tried it last night. no more nasty orange dash lights, and the VSC functions perfectly. Thanks again for all the tips and moral support guy!

 

[GrantK]

Congrats!!! It's a great feeling to fix something that isn't right.