How long your xreas last??
- Thread starter Dads07sport4R
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Dads07sport4R
Member
May be coming up on a set of 07 fj trd coils/struts with 10k. The red and blue ones.. Anybody know anything about this setup??
Cygan1008
New member
It's the trd Bilstein setup. They are a good swap. You will get good performance on and off road and a slight lift from the coils.
You can also go with 05 and up TRD Tacoma shocks and coils if you want a good set up and more lift.
Cygan1008
New member
The Taco swap is hands down the cheapest full replacement. Struts and coils will give you 1.75-2.25" up front depending on motor and 4x4/2wd
The only requirement is a $5 set of bushing in the rear shock eyes. I'm on tapatalk so can't link the thread but look a little further down in the 4th gen forum and you'll see the "have you ran a full taco suspension" thread. There is most everything you will need to know there.
Sporin
New member
Thank you! I'll check that out.
morecoffee70
New member
X-REAS removed, lines up 4 grabs
I've got an 06 Sport Just pulled out my X-REAS system at 227k miles.
I noticed the bad tire wear beginning on the inside from tires. It was still fine at 200k. When I replaced the tires with Cooper Discoverer A/T3's. (Love them! and no more noise than the Cooper Discoverer LSX Plus that just came off.)
Any way I thought I would chime in. Turns out all 4 shocks were leaking the front more so. I still have all the lines & bolts and such. Not bent up at all if someone wants them. I'll toss them in a few weeks if not.
Thanks for all the help from everyon here on the T4R forum!
I've got an 06 Sport Just pulled out my X-REAS system at 227k miles.
I noticed the bad tire wear beginning on the inside from tires. It was still fine at 200k. When I replaced the tires with Cooper Discoverer A/T3's. (Love them! and no more noise than the Cooper Discoverer LSX Plus that just came off.)
Any way I thought I would chime in. Turns out all 4 shocks were leaking the front more so. I still have all the lines & bolts and such. Not bent up at all if someone wants them. I'll toss them in a few weeks if not.
Thanks for all the help from everyon here on the T4R forum!
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simple
Senior Member
Where did you disconnect the fluid lines from? I've been sitting with 5100's in my garage for a few weeks dreading this install. I don't want to get hurt by the pressure or have hyd fluid all over my garage.
lightfreak
New member
I just removed my XREAS and it was not all that difficult.
Get all 4 wheels off the ground. I started at the rear support bracket that sits behind the wheel, there's a junction point there , undo the 12mm bottom-most nut slowly and let it leak into drain pan. For the corresponding front wheel undo the union bolt at the support bracket (not at the shock). Cover bolt with rags while loosening slowly and let it drain gradually.
Then just follow the lines and undo everything along the way. I cut sections of the hard lines after to make removal easier.
No violent spraying, maybe there's a better way but this way worked well for me.
Removed at 295,000 KM, there were no leaks yet but the system was tired, shocks were pretty worn and springs had noticeable sag. Didn't corner well and didn't track well at highway speeds. Rear shock sleeves were rusted and falling apart similar to the pic posted earlier.
Removing the shocks was a whole other story, seized nuts had to be torched to get them to budge, with assistance of some foul language LOL
My rear sway bar end link nuts were completely seized as well, to get my rear springs removed I undid the sway bar mounts on the rear axle.
Moral of the story, don't wait too long to remove XREAS components if you're in the salt belt.
Truck drives like new with KYB shocks all around and MOOG 4runner springs.
Control arm bushings and cam bolts are all seized so those are next on the replacement list.
Bossman
Senior Member
My X-REAS failed at 138,000 km (or 85,750 miles) on my 03 Limited. There was a leak in the system - in the line behind the Driver’s Side Centre Control Absorber. Leak was likely caused by corrosion of the line due to road salt used up here during our Canadian winters.
Fluid that had dripped onto the driveway was the first indicator of some sort of problem. As more fluid leaked out of the system, the suspension became worse.
I removed the entire X-REAS system (it was too costly to replace at the time - but the lines are still there), and I had installed the standard 4Runner SR5 suspension (to keep it relatively stock).
Fluid that had dripped onto the driveway was the first indicator of some sort of problem. As more fluid leaked out of the system, the suspension became worse.
I removed the entire X-REAS system (it was too costly to replace at the time - but the lines are still there), and I had installed the standard 4Runner SR5 suspension (to keep it relatively stock).
simple
Senior Member
Does anybody have measurements of with stock size tires with 5100s at 1.75 with FJ springs? I have XREAS with FJ springs and a 3/4" spacer in the rear and I wish the fronts could be about a half inch to 3/4" higher. But stupid me, I didn't get pre measurements so don't really know where I was at before?
morecoffee70
New member
The rear is just inside the fender well at the lower forward facing corner of each rear fender well between the body and the frame. You'll need a 17MM and 21MM wrench for the lines and a 12mm to unbolt the brackets.
Then there is the hydraulic device on the outside of the frame rails each side looks sort of like a starter motor.
Front. I think... at the rear lower corner of the wheel well between the body and the frame rail. I think the front lines required a 21MM & 22MM wrenches but perhaps I have that wrong. find the back connection and you'll see what it looks like. then follow the front shock and you'll find the connection.
Barely a drop of fluid is lost when you crack these lines as each end of the connection has a Schrader type valve to hold the pressure.
you won't have to cut any lines or even bend them if you have your truck about 1ft. off the ground. Rotate the line under the truck and pull it out of the front wheel well towards the front bumper.
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JeffMerr
New member
Replaced mine in my old rig at 100k. I don't think it's really a question of how long it lasts, because up until I replaced it I thought it was still good because it wasn't leaking. However once I drove it with new shocks (5100's) and coils (FJ) I could tell that it was way past it's life and the difference was immediately noticeable.
