They looked the same to me as well, but I'm not sure we can tell for sure. It seems you can't order the tube, spring, baseplate and housing separately.
How many of you have replaced their plastic oil filter housing?
- Thread starter 03_4x4Runner
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They looked the same to me as well, but I'm not sure we can tell for sure. It seems you can't order the tube, spring, baseplate and housing separately.
MidniteTRD
Member
i'm one of those weird cases where the metal filter housing never fit right. got the right p/n, bought from a dealer (to avoid Amazon fakes), installed with the correct internal tube and the O-ring in the right recess. the housing never truly bottomed out or snugged up even when it couldn't tighten anymore at the correct torque, and weeped oil around the seam with the filter mount when the engine was running.
took it off, went back to stock plastic, never an issue. as long as the plastic isn't hulk-smashed to way beyond its intended torque, especially with all the pressure on the ears, it should be fine.
now that i think about it more, for all the talk about how well toyota engineers these trucks to be relatively bombproof, its a bit funny we take off one of the most critical fluid system components and replace it strictly thinking we know better than the engineers. aside from installer error, if you blow through your skidplate clearance so hard you've cracked the plastic filter housing, you might be having bigger problems than an oil leak.
took it off, went back to stock plastic, never an issue. as long as the plastic isn't hulk-smashed to way beyond its intended torque, especially with all the pressure on the ears, it should be fine.
now that i think about it more, for all the talk about how well toyota engineers these trucks to be relatively bombproof, its a bit funny we take off one of the most critical fluid system components and replace it strictly thinking we know better than the engineers. aside from installer error, if you blow through your skidplate clearance so hard you've cracked the plastic filter housing, you might be having bigger problems than an oil leak.
Excellent post! Isn't it amazing that people think they know more than the engineers. Just like oil interval changes.
The cause of the plastic unit failures is not from "blowing through skid plate clearance" or an impact as it sounds like you are implying. It is due to someone over tightening the unit. User error, certainly.
Your issue reminds me of several others who had leaking issues due to installing the large o-ring in the wrong groove. There are two grooves that the o-ring will sit in and without much scrutiny both appear correct. However, the lower groove (as installed), that is machined, is the correct one.
There is no reason the aluminum unit wouldn't work. The only differences between the two are very minor, non functional, and due to the plastic unit is designed for injection molding, and the aluminum for die casting. All of the critical interfaces (seals, threads, clearance, mating, etc..) and general geometry is otherwise identical. I've done similar manufacturing type design changes in the past (Cast -> Injection Molded)
With all of that said, i also agree there is absolutely nothing faulty with the stock plastic unit.
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DAW89446
Member
‘18 SR5. 50,750 miles. Original filter housing. From the first change onward I’ve had a local, family owned lube shop do the work. I’m a senior and I don’t have the circumstances to comfortably do my own changes.
Reading posts about this subject in the past, I’ve inquired about a metal canister from the lube shop. He carries them and if they break the OEM plastic units they automatically install the metal. To date, they’ve not broken the plastic one.
Reading posts about this subject in the past, I’ve inquired about a metal canister from the lube shop. He carries them and if they break the OEM plastic units they automatically install the metal. To date, they’ve not broken the plastic one.
Proyota
New member
Changed to Toyota Aluminum Oil Filter Housing
I changed to the aluminum oil filter housing on the 1st oil change service at 5,000 miles. Swapped the internal tube and spring over from the plastic housing. Also, I do my own to services using the proper torque for both the oil filter housing and oil pan drain plug.
I changed to the aluminum oil filter housing on the 1st oil change service at 5,000 miles. Swapped the internal tube and spring over from the plastic housing. Also, I do my own to services using the proper torque for both the oil filter housing and oil pan drain plug.
progress4m
Member
2013 Trail with 100K on the odometer, no issues with OEM original (plastic) oil filter housing.
I do my own oil changes (every 5K).
I do my own oil changes (every 5K).
Glenn Goodlett
New member
I change my oil so often I figured I'd wear the plastic one out.
MidniteTRD
Member
i specifically mentioned overtightening particularly using the ears as pressure points for that reason. doesn't surprise me at all they would fail that way, but as you mentioned that's on the installer not the engineers. most dealer techs in particular probably aren't giving much thought to their torque setting, unfortunately but not surprisingly.
i've posted about my experience a couple times on this form but to answer your question, the o-ring was correct. all OEM parts. watched a bunch of tutorials as well as forum installations warning about the pitfalls (ring groove, swapping the tube, etc) and double checked the o-ring position when i took it back off because my first thought was that i messed that up. i have no explanation, i certainly WANTED it to work - like you said it should have been plug and play...but it just didn't work for me and i wanted to put my experience out there. its certainly possible i got a mislabeled part or the wrong part was put into an open-box return or something. no idea. glad most people here are having success though.
TommyG
New member
I had the same problem on my first attempt. I had the O-ring in the wrong spot. IIRC the label on the box that the 4Runner filter comes in tells you where to put the O-ring on the plastic filter holder. And that's the wrong place for the O-ring on the metal filter holder. It's kind of a quantum entanglement
When you have the O-ring in the proper location, the metal filter holder spins on easily by hand and snuggs up flush. No leaks -- just an added bonus.
Main thing is whichever you choose, if it's working for you, then fine.
progress4m
Member
Good timing of this thread and recent video from "The Car Care Nut" channel: TOYOTA OWNERS! PLEASE Don't Make These Mistakes With Oil Filters! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_vl2AYe7Yg
As I have already stated, I am still on original plastics hosing- no issues after 100k and 20 oil changes.
As I have already stated, I am still on original plastics hosing- no issues after 100k and 20 oil changes.
That's why this thread was created. The video was linked in post #1.
progress4m
Member
Obviously, I have missed that… my apologies.
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