lackofguilt
New member
I never knew the Runner had a system like that. Is the backing up technique for the Runner similar to that of normal drum brakes on older cars?
how much should new pads rub?
- Thread starter T4RBoarder
- Start date
I never knew the Runner had a system like that. Is the backing up technique for the Runner similar to that of normal drum brakes on older cars?
I'm not to familiar with the older drum setup of cars, but I'm assuming it's pretty similar to the ebrake setup on the 4runner "where to shoes in a () setting expand outward to rub against the inside of a circle"? If so, then yeah, that's the set up. The () hang on a screwed in pivot at the top, and are connected at the bottom by a setting spring. Sometimes when changing the rotor, the () can get bumped a little, causing them to hang like (), which can cause one side to rub. Setting the ebrake via the peddle will expand them. But in his case, when he did that, they weren't grabbing anymore. But when he backed up and pushed the ebrake peddle, it most likely caused the () to straighten up to a normal () position, and started grabbing again.
T4RBoarder
New member
Well the e-brake thing didn't seem to work so it's back at the guys place and he is re-examining it so we'll see what he says. I wish I had the tools to do this myself. Thanks again for all the help, i'll keep you posted
T4RBoarder
New member
Got the truck back, replaced the caliper...rubbing now seems to be less but it still rubs considerably when turning left. Still producing enough heat to make the wheel too hot to touch. I am completely stumped as to what to do.
Maybe the aftermarket pads or the aftermarket rotors are just too thick to give enough space between the pads and the rotor? Not to be an ass, but this is why I simply stick with oem stuff. I went through hell with my LS400 brakes before giving up and buying everything again - oem. had no problems from that point forward. Can you post the thickness measurements of your rotors and pads on here, and we can check to see if they're really within spec.
Falls: you shopping at the dealership? You can get all four rotors and pads, oem, for $443 bucks from www.parts.com (extra $50 if you've got the 17' front rotors). This is where I got my new rotors and pads for my 4runner last winter, and again for my GS (which are sitting in the garage collecting dust because I haven't had time to do the chore
)
Last edited:
T4RBoarder
New member
we have a winner...the emergency brake springs were destroyed on the right side, I had to get a lot of new retaining springs installed, this time by a professional shop. Everything is now perfect, thanks for the help guys
You must not have said "Pretty please."
My local dealer had no problem competing with Partznet for the pads. $52 each axle local versus $43/$48 from Partznet (plus shipping).
Went RockAuto for the Centric Premium rotors since even Partznet price is $84/$109 front/rear (RockAuto $53/$44)
-Brent
T4RBoarder
New member
ok so the saga continues...but in a different way. Everything seems to be fine, no noise or discoloration of the rotors. The problem this time is that the left side is emitting a hot brake smell after driving for a bit, and the wheel is fairly hot (in comparison, neither of the front wheels are near as hot) now I know that some smell should be associated but how long before the smell goes away or am I looking at another problem on this side? I feel like I may just be overreacting? The shop said this side looked fine.
Last edited:
TechWrench
Senior Member
OK, I have been following this thread, and the one thing I haven't seen anyone mention is how the new pads fit into the calipers. With pads that have been in a while, it is common for rust to build up underneath the metal guides that the tabs on the top and bottom of the pads slide in an out on. This rust will expand under these guides, and cause the new pads to fit too tightly in the calipers, and restrict their ability to retract when the brake pedal is released. I always remove these guide clips, and file all the surfaces to get back to bare metal, coat all these surfaces with anti-seize, and if necessary install new guides. When you install the pads, they should be able to slide easily back and forth in these guides. If they don't, then you need to find out why and correct it, or the pads will hang up and ride on the rotors too much.
