How often do you change your 07 2WD T4R’s spark plugs or 4th generation’s

[jow]

How often do you change your 07 2WD T4R’s spark plugs or 4th generation’s and what type? The recommended 30,000 this day and time is disappointing. I would think good platinum plugs would last 60,000 to 100,000 mi. From your experience, what dictates the 30,000? Remember, this is a bonus from my past plugs/points /condenser “Yearly” in the 1960s. Today’s technology basically has changed all of this which makes 30,000 sound low to me.

The funny part is, I have not seen the plugs on this Beast yet vs too many in my past. LOL! jow

 

[DocMT]

V6 models have standard spark plugs. That's the reason for the 30K change interval.

 

[echo4tango]

yeah dont wait too long past 30k if you have a v-6 the plugs will not hold up.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Many have used Denso or NGK Iridium's with great results. In the legal, technical world that doesn't relieve you from the 30k interval but we all know that Iridium's run 100k plus without issue. I have the Densos. Mine starts well, gets good mpg and has no issues. I have 45k+ on the plugs at this time.

 

[aika1]

I use the standard plugs from the stealership (unfortunately- stealerships is likely being too kind in the description). I change mine every 30k because it's what's called for in the manual and it won't void my extended warranty (lengthening the time between spark plug changes is seen as a lack of maintenance by Toyota). If you buy the plugs yourself and do the change yourself it's really easy and will take you less than an hour after you get the hang of it (if I'm really cooking I can do all of it in less than 45 min...). You'll need a 10inch wobble extension, a 4 inch extension, a ratchet, a torque wrench, a spark plug socket, various metric sockets (I think 8 and 10...), some anti-seize (aluminum block), a spark plug gapper, a rag (for the anti-seize mess), of course the plugs, and a wee bit of patience...

enjoy! it's really not as intimidating as it may seem at first...

 

[jow]

The Dealer explained that they sold the Certified T4R with the records showing the plugs were due to be changed. BUT! The plugs were not a safety issue that falls under Certifying (as brakes, tires, emission items, etc). Basically they recommend that I stay with the 30,000 mi and allow them to change them to avoid any warranty issues that can be related to plugs (Cat converter and emission items).

The engine is performing fine but I’ll pull one plug and check the wear if there is a gap spec. Then shoot for replacing the plugs at 50,000 as long as performance and mpg are good. The thought of purchasing the T4R with 43,000 mi and plugs are needed does not sound good. The dealer did say I could change oil and plugs but if any warranty issues come up they will not be as quick to accept responsibilities if they d/n do the work. Is any info related to this in any of the owner’s manuals/schedules/materials, “that you know of”? Thanks in advance! The Service Writer was honest in saying,“There Is A Catch 22 With Needed Services”. jow

 

[gm350reratliff]

With any engine with aluminum heads its generally not good to leave the plugs past 50k miles. Carbon deposits can harden and build up at the end of the plug. When you remove the plug the deposits can wipe out the threads. Also, after a while the anti-seize (if any) will burn off letting the two types of metal (aluminum head + steel threads of the spark plug) to start bonding to each other. That will wipe out the threads as well.

That being said, I feel the 30k interval is a little much. I still follow it though. In the two times I have changed out plugs all of the plugs looked fine and still had proper gap. The OEM plugs don't cost that much and are easy to change so its just like extra insurance.

 

[DocMT]

The way I see it, the V6 plugs are cheap and easy to replace. So I'll follow the 30K maintenance interval.

 

[Nuke]

I have over 36k miles on the OE plugs and am in no rush, especially after seeing that CJ3Flyr has over 45k miles on his. :hatsoff:

 

[DocMT]

I have over 36k miles on the OE plugs and am in no rush, especially after seeing that CJ3Flyr has over 45k miles on his. :hatsoff:

The way I read his post, he's over 45K miles on his replacement iridium plugs, not his original standard plugs. At least that's what I think he meant.

BTW, all 4th gen with the V6 engine come with 3 NGK and 3 Denso plugs. I'm not sure why Toyota did that, unless it was some sort of supply issue or contract. Just like everyone else, when I pulled out my OEM plugs, there were three of each. Interestingly, the Denso plugs had less visible wear than the NGK plugs, so when I replaced them, I just installed 6 new Denso plugs.

 

[galactic_04]

BTW, all 4th gen with the V6 engine come with 3 NGK and 3 Denso plugs. I'm not sure why Toyota did that, unless it was some sort of supply issue or contract.

I heard it was because the L&R heads were made in different plants.

 

[jow]

Learning that I have aluminum heads will cause me to change my plugs soon. After 12 years of owning and building VWs engines with aluminum heads (1968 – early 80s), I see a different preventive maintenance need. The old VWs and early 80s Volvos taught me that routine maintenance paid for years of good service trouble free. I missed my research on the engine after hearing how long they last.

1. Is the Haynes Repair Manual a good source of general service info and torque specs?

2. Is there a link to a bare T4R V6 online?

3. Have you found good prices on the plugs at O”Reilly or AutoZone?

Owning and servicing 2 Camrys the last 10 yrs the Dealer suggested initially that I could get the same plugs cheaper at an auto store. Thanks For Any Info! jow

 

[DocMT]

1. Is the Haynes Repair Manual a good source of general service info and torque specs?

2. Is there a link to a bare T4R V6 online?

3. Have you found good prices on the plugs at O”Reilly or AutoZone?

Haynes is pretty good. Chilton is almost exactly the same as Haynes. They are both written by the same person and use mostly the same pictures and text.

You can get OEM plugs from rockauto.com for a good price.

Not sure what you were asking in question #2.

 

[jow]

Haynes is pretty good. Chilton is almost exactly the same as Haynes. They are both written by the same person and use mostly the same pictures and text.

You can get OEM plugs from rockauto.com for a good price.

Not sure what you were asking in question #2.

#2. I'm asking for a link to an un-covered T4R engine. I have not seen the bare engine to know what replacing the plugs could include.

 

[Vantage85]

#2. I'm asking for a link to an un-covered T4R engine. I have not seen the bare engine to know what replacing the plugs could include.

What about the v8? I a getting a little lower mpg than usual and wonder if it is spark plug related. I have no idea when the plugs were last done as I recently bought the truck.

 

[echo4tango]

there are plenty of threads with pictures on how to change v-6 plugs. just do a quick search and you'll find one.

you can check out my post i did a few months back about the v-6 plugs and how they looked at 100k. the stock plugs did not look good.

I ran them to 100k because i thought they were the same plugs as the v-8s:bash:

 

[Uneek]

Changed mine at 30k. Added anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs and torqued to 13ft-lb. You'll spend more trying to un-clip the wires to the coil packs on the driver's bank than actually getting the plugs out.

 

[PlanetAlaska-]

What about the v8? I a getting a little lower mpg than usual and wonder if it is spark plug related. I have no idea when the plugs were last done as I recently bought the truck.

With the OEM plugs, you're good to 100K miles on the V8.

 

[jow]

Changed mine at 30k. Added anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs and torqued to 13ft-lb. You'll spend more trying to un-clip the wires to the coil packs on the driver's bank than actually getting the plugs out.

13 ft lbs of torque is light (same as our 4 cyl Camry) but I respect it in an aluminum head. My 68 and 70 VW’s were 26 ft lbs if I remember. I tested a bad VW’s head to see what the plug would strip at. It was close to 70 ft lbs from what I remember. Has anyone actually tested a 4R to see what it would strip at?

I also hate trusting torque wrenches w/o testing them. I will test my 150 ft lb micro/snapping wrench against my 150 ft lb with a pointer. I actually trust the pointer more when it’s convenient to use. Pulling 100 ft lbs and trying to watch the pointer is not fun. My 1970 wrenches, USA brand names are personal (from the challenges I have seen). LOL!

What makes the un-clipping plug wires from the coil packs hard, quoted above? This was not a problem with my Camry experiences (but tight). jow

 

[DocMT]

Changed mine at 30k. Added anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs and torqued to 13ft-lb. You'll spend more trying to un-clip the wires to the coil packs on the driver's bank than actually getting the plugs out.

You need to be careful when you're torquing with anti-sieze. Generally, you should go higher than the recommended torque value when you're using anti-sieze. The reason is because the torque specs are published for "dry" threads. Adding a lubricant to them means that you should go a bit higher.