How-To: 99+ Center Dash Conversion with Wiring

Thanks Alex, i ended up not needing them after all, just used a good DMM and some common sense, (it helps that i do vehicle wiring for a living haha) Just pulled all my old switches apart and traced the pcb to its source. here a little more in depth going from a 97-2000 dash and getting all the kinks out of the wiring only thing i didnt get working was the rear defrost but thats because i forgot the 97 switch at home today and i took care of everything i did at my shop where i work.

Techs in my line of work usually use a color code like this,
"Green/Red" This denotes a green wire with a red stripe
whereas "Red/Green" would denote a red wire with a green stripe

I will not list the hazards as alexb listed the 97-2002 retro and the 2000 was identical to the 2002 for that switch

1997 wiring goes as Such,

ECT PWR Switch-Toggle switch which connects +Ignition Feed to Voltage Sense The feed and sense wires are reversible since this is just a direct short across the two wires

White/Green ---- Backlight Illumination +
Green ---- Backlight Illumination -
Green/Red ---- + Ignition Feed
Black/Orange ---- Voltage sense to ECU

Rear Window Switch- Momentary Switch with +Neutral wire which is shorted to Up/Down

Red ----Relay Feed for window Up
Green/Black ---- Neutral
LtGreen/Black ---- Relay Feed for window Down
White/Green ---- Backlight Illumination +
Green ---- Backlight Illumination -

Rear Defroster- Momentary Switch that toggles Power Across 2 lines to engage/disengage Rear Defroster, this is a timed circuit controlled either in the ECU or in a module located on the body, when active it will illuminate the LED. This is probably a Ground Sense circuit and i will Update this when i have more info and have time to check this circuit directly but wire colors are as such

Black/Yellow ----
Black/Orange ----
Red/Blue ---- I think this wire is Illumination Positive for the "engaged" LED.
White/Green ---- Backlight Illumination +
Green ---- Backlight Illumination -


2000 Multiswitch Wiring Goes As Such
ECT PWR Wires
Purple/Yellow ---- +Ignition Feed
Black/Yellow ---- Voltage Sense to ECU

Rear Window Wires
Red ---- Up
Blue/White ---- Neutral
Red/Black ---- Down

Backlight Illumination
White/Green ---- Backlight Illumination +
Green ---- Backlight Illumination -

Rear Defrost I will Update this When i get Rear Defroster wiring sorted hopefully one day this week
LtGreen/Black
LtGreen/Red
White/Black



So a direct wire to wire conversion if your wires match for a 1997-200 dash will look as such(any of the 3 pairs of backlight illumination wires can be used, you only need one pair i chose the ECT PWR pair)
1997 wires ---- 2000 wires

White/Green ---- White/Green
Green ---- Green
Black/Orange ---- Purple/Yellow
Green/Red ---- Black/Yellow
Black/Red ---- Red
Green/Black ---- Blue/White
LtGreen/Black ---- Red/Black

3 pairs of wires left for me to figure out for rear defrost both the 97, and 2000 had 3 wires for the defrost circuit they should match straight across but we shall see.

1997 has-

Black/Yellow
Black/Orange
Red/Blue

2000 has-
LtGreen/Black
LtGreen/Red
White/Black
Any luck?

sent from my Hawn fingers
 
If you all give me a few days, I'll snap some pictures and do a mini write up of how I wired mine up to have everything work but the lights. Keep in mind that with how I got mine to work requires some soldering and modification to the old defrost switch. Now the lights may work but I haven't been able to find the right size bulbs.
 
If you all give me a few days, I'll snap some pictures and do a mini write up of how I wired mine up to have everything work but the lights. Keep in mind that with how I got mine to work requires some soldering and modification to the old defrost switch. Now the lights may work but I haven't been able to find the right size bulbs.
Rajah dat

sent from my Hawn fingers
 
I haven't had much time to look into it again, I keep the defrost switch from my old dash sitting in my cup holders now so I remember it but with a little one on the way I haven't had much tinker time lately. I'm gonna try to open it back up again in the next couple days and trace the PCB in the old switch and the new board and try and get it working, should be as simple as soldering the 3 wires I left in the pigtail onto the board in the old switch, one should be a momentary 12v+ trigger, one for the back light led to show defrost on or off and the other should be a ground. Hopefully it goes as easy as my mind has made it out to be. Haha. Also keep an eye out for me, I'll be doing a full write up soon on adding the 90-95 map light section and wiring in the door function to them as well as adding an auto dim mirror with temp and compass as well. Still sourcing diagrams for parts to do it though. Lol
 
I just put the stock switch on the bottom L corner

fe707bb175d09a4c52bfb5f1909713de.jpg


sent from my Hawn fingers
 
soooo I just purchased my own 99 dash to put into my 97 as well as center console and the entire siding panels so as to have the same color(blue grey>brown tan)...

Knew about the center vent, that was a given, but didn't open up my current dash or console so had no reference for wiring or plugs when I was grabbing the updated parts.... Do I need to go back and grab some pig trails from that harness?


And reading about the defroster switch.... Has anyone tried simply leaving the old switch inside the dash, turned on, and just using the new in dash switch as a 12v power switch to the "always on" original unit?
 
soooo I just purchased my own 99 dash to put into my 97 as well as center console and the entire siding panels so as to have the same color(blue grey>brown tan)...

Knew about the center vent, that was a given, but didn't open up my current dash or console so had no reference for wiring or plugs when I was grabbing the updated parts.... Do I need to go back and grab some pig trails from that harness?


And reading about the defroster switch.... Has anyone tried simply leaving the old switch inside the dash, turned on, and just using the new in dash switch as a 12v power switch to the "always on" original unit?
Just do what I did and use the same switch relocated on the bottom L corner. That was the only switch I left original. I did extend the wires to relocate the switch.

41ed79d8087fdcb7c291a8677279d285.jpg


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
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What about the other controls, do I need 99 pig tails?

Edit....

Went and grabbed em anyways...
 
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Good morning.

I am a total newby here and have a question. Wondering if anyone can help me with an answer.

I own a 2013 4Runner SR5...Is it possible to replace the center dash with one of a 2013 Limited? I basically want to have the ability to have the center screen with gps and backup camera. The backup camera I currently have shows up on the rearview mirror.

Thank you.
 
Sorry for the late reply, yes you will need the main pigtail for the ect/defrost switch. The clock switch and wiring is direct plug and play, the hazards switch uses the same connector but MUST be rewired or your turn signal will pop the fuse everytime you use it.

With the weather cooling off I'll be digging back in and finishing the defrost switch to get it simplified and complete, and will update my section I posted a page or 2 ago.
 
Well I've got the defrost switch taken care of, so far so good. The LED for the defrost "engage" illuminates properly and functions on off via the 2000 multiswitch. I ended up using 3 wires and soldered them to the 97 board and voila! You no longer need to keep bulbs in the original defrost switch so I remover them and used them to replace burned out bulbs in the 2k multiswitch. Now I just have to reassemble the cover on it and hide it behind my center console and good to go.

UPDATE:maybe not so much dice for the engaged led, it works initially but failed after I reassembled everything and went to test. Pulled it back apart and can't get it to work again now. So for the time being I left the Green/red wire off, and put it back together so I atleast have working defrost with 2 wires changed. I'm assume this is because the LED is probably 3-6volt draw from the ECU in a 2k model whereas the standard bulb I was tapped into is 12v. Hadn't even crossed my mind, but I'm assuming this is correct and I should have wired in a resistor prior to prevent this. That's why it worked initially but fails soon after.

Can anyone with a factory 2k or up confirm this by chance, test the voltage of the LED with the defrost engaged?
 

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so i tackled this job over the weekend. actually replaced the entire dash as mine was beat up and cracked.
i am about to get everything put back together but i am having an issue with the hazard switch. i have the old one (97) and i have the new one with the pigtail (99).

here are the connectors from the 97.
[] WhiteGreen [] Green
RedBlack BlueRed BlueWhite GreenRed GreenYellow GreenBlack

and here is the plug/wires from the 99.

YellowRed [] GreenYellow GreyBlack
WhiteGreen Green RedBlack BlueWhite GreenRed


the 97 has a BlueRed and a GreenBlack that the 99 doesn't have.
the 99 has a YellowRed and a GreyBlack that the 97 doesn't have.

is it just a matter of matching these 4 mismatching colored wires? or?

anyone have a schematic of both? anywhere i can get the schematics of the plugs/wiring?

any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
I did this on my 97 with a 2k model console. I posted all my schematics a bit up in this thread if you want to compare connections. I followed Alex detail iirc and just repinned my 97 connector for the hazards.
 
I did this on my 97 with a 2k model console. I posted all my schematics a bit up in this thread if you want to compare connections. I followed Alex detail iirc and just repinned my 97 connector for the hazards.

Thanks! :thumb:it was the re-pinning the hazard switch that i missed. just needed someone else to point it out to me after reading it 100 times. :ybrick:

makes sense now
 

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