How to install a remote start

[hoggy46]

I typed this up as a reply to a PM but realized I'm others would benefit. I'll ad to this later and update it so hopefully it can be searched and used time and time again. I'll be happy to help anyone with a remote start. I'm new here and want to do my part. So I'll just leave this right here and answer any questions others might have. If this is something you think would be helpfully, post here and let me know as well.

You can buy an avital 4103, directed 556uw and a spare key for about $70 all from amazon and have remote start and I'll help.

This applies to all DEI products such as viper, avital, etc

Primary Harness
H1/1 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA AUX TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
I didn't hook this up as I didn't find any documentation but I will look into it because I would like the option to go up and down from the remote. I have all the other windows controller so I its likely doable

H1/2 RED (+) CONSTANT POWER INPUT
I always connect this behind the fuses on the relay pack, tie this wire together with the ribbon cable and zip tie to wire tape it to the harness, as this will make it easier later.

H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT
This connects to the red wire of the siren or can be used to trigger the horn for arm/disarm confirmation. You don't have to connect this to make it work and you don't have to use any of the alarm functions if you don't want to.

H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND INPUT --- Chassis ground
yep

H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT
not used

H1/7 BLUE (-) INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT
green/yellow - Back Door ECU in rear liftgate, white 25 pin plug, pin 7, you'll have to run the wire back there and through the existing wire loom

H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3
used for door triggers LF red/black, RF red/yel, LR pink/black, RR pink/blue;These all need to be diode isolated, You will need 4 small diodes with the silver banded side of the all the diodes connected together to the brain and the 4 legs left connected to each door trigger. These wires are located at the body ECU on RR of dash fuse box, middle white 24 pin plug, you will have to take the 2 10mm bolts out that hold the fuse box in

H1/9 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT --- Pin 8, plug to right of fuse box - White (-)
dash fuse box, white 20 pin plug (A), pin 8
H1/10 WHITE/BLUE (-) REMOTE START ACTIVATION INPUT
this would be some type of external intput to trigger a remote start sequence, rarely used

H1/11 WHITE (+)/(-) SELECTABLE LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT --- 16 Plug, left of fuses - Green (+) - Needs Relay
I think I found this on the bottom left corner of the dash fuse box in a wire harness, you just have to test it with a multimeter to know for sure, best to check them all

H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT
you won't need this wire unless you do window modules like I did, otherwise its not commonly used

Auxilary Harness
you shouldn't need any of these wires as the vehicle locks and unlocks with the factory arm and disarm wires

Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 LIGHT BLUE (-) UNLOCK (+) LOCK OUTPUT --- Driver's kick, 18 pin plug - Blue (Type B?)
2 EMPTY NOT USED --- None
3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT --- Driver's kick, 18 pin plug - Green (Type B?)
This looks accurate, I know I connected the blue wire to the green wire and the green wire to the blue wire, it will take two button presses to unlock all doors as it does with the factory remote, can be changed but I need to be 100% sure of what you have to help with that

Ribbon cable
This is from the relay pack and plugs into the brain

Heavy gauge relay satellite wiring diagram
H/1 PURPLE STARTER OUTPUT TO STARTER (STARTER SIDE) --- Ignition switch harness - Green/Black (+) - Starter side
H/2 GREEN STARTER INPUT FROM IGNITION (KEY SIDE) --- Ignition switch harness - Green/Black (+) - Key side
H/3 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT --- Can be spliced with H/6 and H/8?
connect this to red or white blue
H/4 ORANGE OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT --- Ignition switch harness - White/Green (+) - A/C
H/5 PINK OUTPUT TO PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT --- Ignition switch harness - Black/Red (+)
H/6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT --- Can be spliced with H/3 and H/8?
H/7 PINK/WHITE OUTPUT TO SECOND IGNITION CIRCUIT --- Ignition switch harness - Blue/Yellow (+)
H/8 RED/WHITE (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT --- Can be spliced with H/3 and H/6?
connect this to red or white/bluej

the white/blue is a higher current wire, I don't remember if the red or red/white connects to the starter relay but whatever one does, connect that to white blue and the other to red, you also don't have to cut the starter wire and do the start kill, you can ignore the green wire and just tap the purple into the starter wire

Relay satellite 4-pin connector Is this needed?
1 BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT ---
you will use this to trigger a bypass module for the anti theft system, I used a dei 556u, This is a key in a box module and there are many varieties that all work basically the same, will discuss more later

Remote start harness, (H3) 5-pin connector
H3/1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT --- None
connect this to ground
H3/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE --- Engine control module, connector E8, Pin 5 - Black/White (AC)
this is located above the gas pedel, kinda hard to get to, I used a scotch lock which I don't like to use but makes it much easier to tap when hard to reach, you don't necessarily have to use this since the 4runner doesn't require you to hold the key till it starts, I did anyways, you will have to learn the tach or program the remote start to tachless mode
H3/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE --- Switch above brake pedal - Green/Yellow (+)
got this wire next to the parking light wire I believe
H3/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH INPUT, ZONE 6 --- None (Install one maybe?)
not needed
H3/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER - Latched Pulsed ---
I didn't try this yet so I'm not sure, it says its a green red wire, it might need a relay, it should be 12v when defrost off and drop to nothing when turned on

Aux4
not needed

for a bypass I used the dei module but there are others, they generally take power, ignition ground and negative trigger when remote starting (blue wire mentioned earlier), put a programmed key in the box and wrap the copper coil around the ignion switch, voila, keys are cheap and instructions are available to program them, I bought one but haven't tried it, but it sounds like you don't even need to turn the key to program in which case you don't need to get it cut. Buy it, program it and stick it in the box. I have my valet key in mine currently but thats my plan

Thats it, its a lot but I've put 100's of these things on, its doable for the average person, but you need to spend some time bench wiring this. I'll post pictures of what this looks like later. Does this site have a picture upload?

 

[Jembrmstr]

please do a write up on this, picture heavy!!

also is there a way to make this work while keeping the factory fob (say 3 lock button presses in 10 seconds or something?)

also add model numbers of the things we have to pick up!!

thanks in advance!!

 

[hoggy46]

please do a write up on this, picture heavy!!

also is there a way to make this work while keeping the factory fob (say 3 lock button presses in 10 seconds or something?)

also add model numbers of the things we have to pick up!!

thanks in advance!!

thats the plan, I could do it with the factory remote I'm sure but I think thats a bad idea because the range is generally very poor on factory remotes.

I planned to do a write up with an avital 4103, directed 556uw bypass.

thanks for letting me know you would like to see it, I hope to be able to get to this soon, but we will see.

 

[Dylan]

So I bought the Avital 5103. It has the remote start with security features added. Will the wiring schematics you've listed be just a part of my install since I have the additional features for the alarms?

 

[hoggy46]

H1/7 BLUE (-) INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT
green/yellow - Back Door ECU in rear liftgate, white 25 pin plug, pin 7, you'll have to run the wire back there and through the existing wire loom

H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3
used for door triggers LF red/black, RF red/yel, LR pink/black, RR pink/blue;These all need to be diode isolated, You will need 4 small diodes with the silver banded side of the all the diodes connected together to the brain and the 4 legs left connected to each door trigger. These wires are located at the body ECU on RR of dash fuse box, middle white 24 pin plug, you will have to take the 2 10mm bolts out that hold the fuse box in

These are the security wires. The only other wiring that I would classify as security is the starter interrupt. Meaning you but the starter wire, connecting the purple wire to the starter side and the green wire to the key side. These are the large gauge wires. Security also means you have a shock sensor and a siren.

 

[Dylan]

These are the security wires. The only other wiring that I would classify as security is the starter interrupt. Meaning you but the starter wire, connecting the purple wire to the starter side and the green wire to the key side. These are the large gauge wires. Security also means you have a shock sensor and a siren.

[MENTION=121185]hoggy46[/MENTION] Thanks again for the writeup. I've got some questions before I tear apart my car and begin installing...

H1/2: When you say connect this behind the fuses on the relay pack, do you mean splice into the three heavy gauge wires with the 30A fuses? Do you splice into the wire before the fuse before it gets to the relay pack?

H1/3: Can you have both the siren and the horn? I would prefer just the siren I suppose, to prolong the life of the horn haha

H1/6: I'm a little confused on how to splice in for the door triggers and wonder if it's worth the trouble of having to get diodes, etc, for this functionality. Also, where exactly are these wires located? You mention they're on the body ECU on the RR of the dash fuse box. RR meaning "right rear"??

Lastly, regarding the three heavy gauge wires with the 30A fuses: To make sure I'm understanding correctly, those three can all be soldered together, correct? I noticed you say that one should connect to the white/blue and another should connect to just the red wire in the ignition switch bundle...which makes me think they should not be connected with eachother.

 

[Dylan]

Here's those three wires I've wrapped together, if they in fact do need to be connected with one another. It looks like they're the Red/White, Red, and Red wires.

 

[rooost]

You guys already lost me !

So how many new components are required ?

 

[Dylan]

I found the expanded instructions at the link below, but I'm still a little confused about which wires on the 4Runner they apply to.

http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Avital/N5103L_2009_07_web.pdf

 

[Dylan]

You guys already lost me !

So how many new components are required ?

Basically just the remote start system and the immobilizer bypass module. I opted for the remote start system which also includes a more robust alarm system compared to the stock system.

 

[njsanna]

Here's those three wires I've wrapped together, if they in fact do need to be connected with one another. It looks like they're the Red/White, Red, and Red wires.

I've done a few systems over the years and just recently did a Viper Alarm/Remote install similar to this so I figured I'd share. You may know or have this info, but Ill put it here someone else that comes along.

This is how I did mine...Yes I tied H3, H6, H8 together (I think, Ill see if I still have my notes but not sure why I would have done it differently) stagger your splicing along the factory wire to make it easier and so that you don't have a bulge of wires connected in one spot. I wouldn't recommend T-taps for the heavy duty connections, go straight for splice connections and solder as shown at the 9 minute mark in the video linked below.

H/1 PURPLE to Start - Starter side - Green/Black (+) I cut my start wire
H/2 GREEN to Start - Key side - Green/Black (+)
H/3 RED to Constant +12 Volts - White/Blue (+)
H/4 ORANGE to Accessory - White/Green (+) - A/C
H/5 PINK to Ignition #1 +12 Volts - Black/Red (+)
H/6 RED to Constant +12 Volts - White/Blue (+)
H/7 PINK/WHITE to Ignition #2 +12 Volts - Blue/Yellow (+)
H/8 RED/WHITE to Constant +12 Volts - White/Blue (+)


H1/2: When you say connect this behind the fuses on the relay pack, do you mean splice into the three heavy gauge wires with the 30A fuses? Do you splice into the wire before the fuse before it gets to the relay pack?
You can tie this into any constant 12v. I found a separate one out of the fuse box somewhere since I hooked up my Heavy Gauge satellite a day or two later, busy schedule couldn't get the whole alarm install done at one time. Really any constant 12v will work.

H1/3: Can you have both the siren and the horn? I would prefer just the siren I suppose, to prolong the life of the horn haha
You could....just run the brown wire through the fire wall to wherever the siren will be mounted.

H1/6: I'm a little confused on how to splice in for the door triggers and wonder if it's worth the trouble of having to get diodes, etc, for this functionality. Also, where exactly are these wires located? You mention they're on the body ECU on the RR of the dash fuse box. RR meaning "right rear"??
I did not use diodes, just connected to it. From Bulldog website... DOOR TRIGGER PURPLE/YELLOW (-) @ BECU, TOP PLUG, PIN 12, See NOTE #3
Maybe I did it wrong? It works.

Lay everything out on the bench and mark the wires that are being used with their names and location or car wires they attach to on masking tape and attach that to the ends of the wires. Cut short the wires you are not using and wire tie them up so they are not in the way. Space is really limited and unless you do this everyday it gets confusing once you're on you back looking under the dash.

Good luck and take your time. You can't go wrong with the wiring diagram below...
View attachment Bulldog Security Diagrams.pdf


links to help you and others:

Go here and navigate to your year and model.http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx 2004 Attached it above.

Car Alarms, Security and Convenience

04 4runner alarm wiring

I used this 5 part video series to pick up some pointers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8pAFfamwxo

Kind of an Eh' video but its a decent video for alarm noobs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHtBTSBHyCY

1041 document door locks: http://kb.directed.com/Attachment184.aspx

 

[njsanna]

Remote start harness, (H3) 5-pin connector
H3/1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT --- None
connect this to ground
H3/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE --- Engine control module, connector E8, Pin 5 - Black/White (AC)
this is located above the gas pedel, kinda hard to get to, I used a scotch lock which I don't like to use but makes it much easier to tap when hard to reach, you don't necessarily have to use this since the 4runner doesn't require you to hold the key till it starts, I did anyways, you will have to learn the tach or program the remote start to tachless mode
H3/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE --- Switch above brake pedal - Green/Yellow (+)
got this wire next to the parking light wire I believe
H3/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH INPUT, ZONE 6 --- None (Install one maybe?)
not needed
H3/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER - Latched Pulsed ---
I didn't try this yet so I'm not sure, it says its a green red wire, it might need a relay, it should be 12v when defrost off and drop to nothing when turned on

I wanted to add my $0.02

H3/1 - This should have a switch with it. You can connect the wire direct to ground but then you wont be able to disable your remote start. I think having the opportunity to disable this with the switch is valuable for sending your car to the dealer or working on the car yourself. Imagine having the keys in your pocket on the ground under you car while changing your oil and accidentally hitting the start button sequence...? Your car starts mid-oil change! Or your tech is hanging over the front of the engine and something goes wrong and the car starts...All very unlikely but accidents happen and its a safety issue that might add a couple more minutes to the total install.

H3/2 - I pulled this from behind the OBD plug. I think my wire colors were different than listed in my vehicle diagram but I tested it for AC voltage and watched it change on the meter and figured it was the right one. Easy to get to behind the OBD plug.

H3/4 - Same response as H3/1 although I did not hook up the pin switch...yet. I ran the wire through the firewall and grounded in the engine bay to maybe someday install in the future.

 

[gshadow325]

I wanted to add my $0.02

H3/1 - This should have a switch with it. You can connect the wire direct to ground but then you wont be able to disable your remote start. I think having the opportunity to disable this with the switch is valuable for sending your car to the dealer or working on the car yourself. Imagine having the keys in your pocket on the ground under you car while changing your oil and accidentally hitting the start button sequence...? Your car starts mid-oil change! Or your tech is hanging over the front of the engine and something goes wrong and the car starts...All very unlikely but accidents happen and its a safety issue that might add a couple more minutes to the total install.

H3/2 - I pulled this from behind the OBD plug. I think my wire colors were different than listed in my vehicle diagram but I tested it for AC voltage and watched it change on the meter and figured it was the right one. Easy to get to behind the OBD plug.

H3/4 - Same response as H3/1 although I did not hook up the pin switch...yet. I ran the wire through the firewall and grounded in the engine bay to maybe someday install in the future.

i was going to stay out of this but when i see potential issues i cant resist. my hate for DEI is overshadowed by my want to share proper knowledge.

Neutral safety switch is dei version of doing a remote start on a manual transmission car. thats why this connection existed.

tach can be grabbed at OBD connector at almost every toyota vehicle out there.

this is where i have a problem. HOOD PIN SWITCH SHOULD ALWAYS BE CONNECTED AND SETUP. its there for your own safety as well as others. there are other ways to set one up with out a pin switch. you can incorporate my underhood lighting mod that uses a mercury tilt switch. dont skip this step.


/rant

 

[Dylan]

I wanted to add my $0.02

i was going to stay out of this but when i see potential issues i cant resist.

Thank you guys both! I'm planning to do this Friday evening, that way if I fudge anything up I will have a 3-day weekend to fix.

A couple questions off the bat...
[MENTION=115980]njsanna[/MENTION] regarding the horn/siren option. When you suggested to just run the brown wire through the firewall and connect it to the siren, that is if I simply want the siren only, correct?
[MENTION=93434]gshadow325[/MENTION] I appreciate your willingness to help despite being conflicted about DEI. Is the hood pin switch a feature that disables the ignition when the hood is popped? Trying to wrap my head around that...

 

[gshadow325]

Thank you guys both! I'm planning to do this Friday evening, that way if I fudge anything up I will have a 3-day weekend to fix.

A couple questions off the bat...

[MENTION=115980]njsanna[/MENTION] regarding the horn/siren option. When you suggested to just run the brown wire through the firewall and connect it to the siren, that is if I simply want the siren only, correct?

[MENTION=93434]gshadow325[/MENTION] I appreciate your willingness to help despite being conflicted about DEI. Is the hood pin switch a feature that disables the ignition when the hood is popped? Trying to wrap my head around that...

it just does not allow the car to start since it sees a negative input from the hood pin. exactly the opposite of the neutral safety switch. those two wires do the same thing at the end of the day but trigger differently. one needs to see a ground to work, one doesnt work when it sees a ground.

 

[gshadow325]

3 days for a security remote start install? i'd be broke if that was the case. this is a simple 2hour gig.

 

[Dylan]

3 days for a security remote start install? i'd be broke if that was the case. this is a simple 2hour gig.

Haha...currently it's in the 20s so I'm hoping to not be in my garage for more than a couple hours.

 

[gshadow325]

Haha...currently it's in the 20s so I'm hoping to not be in my garage for more than a couple hours.

i'm heading to Philadelphia this weekend with 3 mobile jobs on friday, saturday 4 speakers/radio and remote starter and 2 starters on sunday then back to atlanta on monday.

snow, rain, sleet, heat...it doesnt matter...just do it

 

[Dylan]

[MENTION=115980]njsanna[/MENTION] [MENTION=93434]gshadow325[/MENTION]

H1/1 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA AUX TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
I didn't hook this up as I didn't find any documentation but I will look into it because I would like the option to go up and down from the remote. I have all the other windows controller so I its likely doable

Can this be hooked up to lower the rear window? What wire if so?

H1/2 RED (+) CONSTANT POWER INPUT
I always connect this behind the fuses on the relay pack, tie this wire together with the ribbon cable and zip tie to wire tape it to the harness, as this will make it easier later.

So I can splice this into one of the three 12v heavy gauge wires before their 30A fuse?


H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3
used for door triggers LF red/black, RF red/yel, LR pink/black, RR pink/blue;These all need to be diode isolated, You will need 4 small diodes with the silver banded side of the all the diodes connected together to the brain and the 4 legs left connected to each door trigger. These wires are located at the body ECU on RR of dash fuse box, middle white 24 pin plug, you will have to take the 2 10mm bolts out that hold the fuse box in

no need for diodes? just solder straight to the listed wires?

H1/10 WHITE/BLUE (-) REMOTE START ACTIVATION INPUT
this would be some type of external intput to trigger a remote start sequence, rarely used


this one isn't used in my case?

H1/11 WHITE (+)/(-) SELECTABLE LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT --- 16 Plug, left of fuses - Green (+) - Needs Relay
I think I found this on the bottom left corner of the dash fuse box in a wire harness, you just have to test it with a multimeter to know for sure, best to check them all

Does this need a relay in fact? for sure located in bottom left corner down near the left kick panel?

H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT
you won't need this wire unless you do window modules like I did, otherwise its not commonly used

Is this worth it? It just gives the option for windows to roll down?

Auxilary Harness
you shouldn't need any of these wires as the vehicle locks and unlocks with the factory arm and disarm wires

Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 LIGHT BLUE (-) UNLOCK (+) LOCK OUTPUT --- Driver's kick, 18 pin plug - Blue (Type B?)
2 EMPTY NOT USED --- None
3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT --- Driver's kick, 18 pin plug - Green (Type B?)
This looks accurate, I know I connected the blue wire to the green wire and the green wire to the blue wire, it will take two button presses to unlock all doors as it does with the factory remote, can be changed but I need to be 100% sure of what you have to help with that

Does light blue connect to blue or green like the user hoggy suggested? Same with green to green or to blue??

Ribbon cable
This is from the relay pack and plugs into the brain

Heavy gauge relay satellite wiring diagram
H/1 PURPLE STARTER OUTPUT TO STARTER (STARTER SIDE) --- Ignition switch harness - Green/Black (+) - Starter side
H/2 GREEN STARTER INPUT FROM IGNITION (KEY SIDE) --- Ignition switch harness - Green/Black (+) - Key side
H/3 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT --- Can be spliced with H/6 and H/8?
connect this to red or white blue

Can connect to any 12v?

H/4 ORANGE OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT --- Ignition switch harness - White/Green (+) - A/C
H/5 PINK OUTPUT TO PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT --- Ignition switch harness - Black/Red (+)
H/6 RED (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT --- Can be spliced with H/3 and H/8?

spliced to 12v?

H/7 PINK/WHITE OUTPUT TO SECOND IGNITION CIRCUIT --- Ignition switch harness - Blue/Yellow (+)
H/8 RED/WHITE (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT --- Can be spliced with H/3 and H/6?
connect this to red or white/bluej

the white/blue is a higher current wire, I don't remember if the red or red/white connects to the starter relay but whatever one does, connect that to white blue and the other to red, you also don't have to cut the starter wire and do the start kill, you can ignore the green wire and just tap the purple into the starter wire

does this connect to red or white/blue? they both look like 12v

Relay satellite 4-pin connector Is this needed?
1 BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT ---
you will use this to trigger a bypass module for the anti theft system, I used a dei 556u, This is a key in a box module and there are many varieties that all work basically the same, will discuss more later

this connects with the immobilizer bypass?

Remote start harness, (H3) 5-pin connector
H3/1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT --- None
connect this to ground

so this isn't needed then since it's intended for manual trannys? just ground it?

H3/2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE --- Engine control module, connector E8, Pin 5 - Black/White (AC)
this is located above the gas pedel, kinda hard to get to, I used a scotch lock which I don't like to use but makes it much easier to tap when hard to reach, you don't necessarily have to use this since the 4runner doesn't require you to hold the key till it starts, I did anyways, you will have to learn the tach or program the remote start to tachless mode

any idea which wire on the OBD connection that tach can be grabbed from?

H3/3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE --- Switch above brake pedal - Green/Yellow (+)
got this wire next to the parking light wire I believe

green/yellow wire that connects above the brake pedal?

H3/4 GRAY (-) HOOD PINSWITCH INPUT, ZONE 6 --- None (Install one maybe?)
not needed

best place to install the hood pin switch?

H3/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER - Latched Pulsed ---
I didn't try this yet so I'm not sure, it says its a green red wire, it might need a relay, it should be 12v when defrost off and drop to nothing when turned on

I dont want to mess with the rear defogger. Heard too many horror stories from other 4th gen owners about them shattering when defrosting.
Aux4
not needed

 

[gshadow325]

OMG, just install it and RTFM.

RTFM = read the freaking manual.

It's not that complicated. I head hurts trying to read pages of a single post for a single wire. If it is then don't do it.

You can read all you want. Only the people that complain will post something not working. Such as the defroster. I do it, I alsoretain the auto lights too, I do hatch roll up and down,

I hate DEI, I refuse to attempt to relearn their junk.
I can not offer you any tech support on that product. Call the guys you bought it from.

You didn't even venture into the transponder bypass yet aND you have all these questions.

Sorry if I sound like I'm complaining or being mean or being a jerk or whatever. It just irritating that one would think and over think and belive everything on the Internet is true. Just get in there and do it. If you don't know how, don't do it. If you run into problems, post a question maybe someone has time and the knowledge to answer it.

Good luck is the best thing I can do for consumer level tech support.

/rant