How to install new CV Axles

2StepsAhead, How did the Kobalt do on the lug nuts and also the axle nut and caliper bolts?

I bought a DeWalt impact and it struggles with lug nuts..

Thanks for any feedback you can offer on the Kobalt.

Did very well, I have a chordless Craftsman and that usually just barely works on the lugs...the chorded Kobalt took off the lugs much easier and the axle nuts only took a few seconds. Caliper bolts I didnt have enough room for the Kobalt so I used my Craftsman for that.
 
This is awesome. I haven't been on this forum for about a year. Life got busy. I'm browsing through a few pages and see my old write up on here still going strong. It makes me happy that people are benefiting from it. I like the pics and teamwork to really pull it together. Great job guys.

-Seth
 
Ok my turn

So my 07 made it almost a year from my FJ spring swap. When I did the swap I was pretty hard on the prybar and am not at all surprised that my drivers side CV axel needs replaced.

In 7 pages though I am surprised no one has asked the following tow questions:

1. Do I REALLY need to replace both CV axels? or is just replacing the bad one fine.

2. Do I REALLY need to replace the seals? I if it ain't broke, do fix it and if it does leak, it isn't that big of a deal to take it apart to do it again. Am I wrong?

Also, my gift to you.

Toyota 4Runner CV Axle Drive Shaft Replacement - YouTube

A video of what we are all talking about.
 
Good info here, I thought I would add.
I bought the reman's shafts from Toyota. They were the Toyota ones reman'd. But I ended up with grease splatter after a few hundred miles, ugh! Turns out the clamp dug into the boot on the tire side of the shaft. Further inspection showed that the boot was not extended far enough on the shaft. It needed to be loosened and slid away from the joint. Not too hard to do. I silicon'd the cut in the boot. So far no more leaks, but it will be something I will have to keep an eye on.

This is on a 2005 Limited with Toytec Boss lift at 3". So very significant cv angles.
 
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So my 07 made it almost a year from my FJ spring swap. When I did the swap I was pretty hard on the prybar and am not at all surprised that my drivers side CV axel needs replaced.

In 7 pages though I am surprised no one has asked the following tow questions:

1. Do I REALLY need to replace both CV axels? or is just replacing the bad one fine.

2. Do I REALLY need to replace the seals? I if it ain't broke, do fix it and if it does leak, it isn't that big of a deal to take it apart to do it again. Am I wrong?

Also, my gift to you.

Toyota 4Runner CV Axle Drive Shaft Replacement - YouTube

A video of what we are all talking about.

Ok, here's my take and some notes learned from my install. You can probably get away with only replacing the axle that needs it, however I did both for the following reasoning: One went bad and the other has the same mileage so how much longer will it go before the same (or worse ) issue presents itself.

As for the seals, are you speaking of the axle seals at the diff? I'd just replace them:
1. they are inexpensive
2. you have everything apart anyway so you have plenty of access
3. they have the same mileage as other drive line components so the condition of the seal ought to be inspected
4. how well is your inspection of the seal really giving you a good picture of it's condition, why not : (see #1 and #2)?
5. it could get damaged in the removal of the old CV.

But if you're sure there is no issue with them then I guess you could just leave 'em.

The seals are pretty easy to put it. I used a 2" PVC end cap as a seal driver. The PVC cap is just larger that the seal's contact surface. It will rest right where you want it on the outer flange of the seal. Just be sure to keep an eye on where the original one was positioned.

The drivers side flange sits flush with the flat rim of the diff housing, right there where the seal goes. I hope that makes sense.

The passenger side seats in a little further. About a 1/4 to 1/2" I'd guess inside of the diff housing there is a "ledge" or some sort of line where there is a very slight change in the inner surface diameter. If you look you can see it, and you can feel it with your finger. The seal flange sits flush with that "ledge." I hope THAT makes sense... :)

Be careful about installing the passenger side too far. The seal can go deeper into the diff housing, but the couple member I remember reading who did that reported leaks until they re-installed to the correct location.

Be sure to apply a little oil or grease on the outer edge to help keep the seal from binding as you install it, and also put a little bit of oil / grease on the contact lip with the axle.


~Bob
 
After market CV axle differences

That last video Morphyne posted is pretty good. I noticed you can clearly see a NON-OEM (reman'd, I assume) axle.

That's not to say it's bad but I asked once how to tell the difference and it was explained that the OEM's have the tri-lobal inner axle housing where the non-OEM is cylindrical.

Just thought I'd point that out.

Also, the guy in the vid removed the tie rod end. I didn't do that. On the first replacement I just undid the lower ball joint connection, on the other axle I also undid the sway bar end link. That gave me more articulation to get the steering knuckle out of the way, but I can see where also undoing the tie rod end gives you as much maneuvering as you might need

I used a cold chisel and BFH to get the axle in and out. It worked fine, but those pry bars look like they work really well (wish I had one). I wonder how he popped his axle in? mine were a bear until I was able to stabilize the outer end from wanting to fall out (and working against my efforts in hammering it back into the diff).
 
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Thanks for the insight Bob. that is pretty much what I figured. I am going to go ahead and only do the broken VC with no seal replacement. The way I see it, this is a pretty easy install so I am willing to risk not replacing the seals as it seams that most of the headaches come from seal replacement. and sinces its drivers isde I can stay away from the passenger side issues.
 
I told you so...!

Ok so this is a public service announcement. If you have 140,000 miles on your truck. Buy new seals. You will need them. My knuckle seals came apart when I pulled mine today so tomorrow I will be headed to advanceauto to pick up knuckle seals and oils seals. Wish me luck!

Oh, also. What I have found about removing the CV axels is that shooting the outer housing with pb blaster doen't hurt and then banging on the out housing and rotating multiple times works good too. I was having a hell of a time until I did that and then it popped right out.
 
Ok so this is a public service announcement. If you have 140,000 miles on your truck. Buy new seals. You will need them. My knuckle seals came apart when I pulled mine today so tomorrow I will be headed to advanceauto to pick up knuckle seals and oils seals. Wish me luck!

Oh, also. What I have found about removing the CV axels is that shooting the outer housing with pb blaster doen't hurt and then banging on the out housing and rotating multiple times works good too. I was having a hell of a time until I did that and then it popped right out.

That blows. I had ordered those knuckle seals to have on hand just in case that happened. Earlier in the thread someone had the same thing. I got National seals (one even had the toyota part # stamped on it). I still need to replace one (although the original didn't tear when I replaced the axle). Look earlier in the thread and you'll find a DIY seal driver made from some steel bar stock and ground down to fit the curvature inside the lip of the seal. (EDIT: see post #79, on pg. 6)

I didn't have any scrap steel so I just measured what diameter I needed, then used a piece of 2x4 and chopped it down to get it mostly round and finished it with a rasp. The 2x4 is thick enough that you can hammer it in and not worry about hitting the outer edge and damaging it.
 
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I figured it out by rereading the thread. I was trying Prather out from the inside. You need to chisel them out form the out side. Anyway I replaced both axels but I didn't do the seal on the drivers side and also the passengers side seal didnt seat all the way so I have to take it apart and pound it in.
 
Great info in this thread!! I was all ready to replace both of my CV axle shafts until in watched "Eric the car guy replaces CV boots" now I'm thinking of just letting mine go until they start to click..

I was replacing the shocks on my 170k mile 4Runner and noticed a torn boot. The rest of the boots are dry and cracked too. The torn boot was on the small end and was actually sealed up pretty decently.

So, Would you all replace the CV's? Or let to till next spring/summer.. Mind you the weather just turned cold and I do not have a heated garage to work in. Must work outside as my boat is in the garage as well..
 
So I just finished replacing both CV's with CVJ remans, removal/install went smooth just time consuming as I've never done it before. One thing I'm worried about is the inner boot looks like this
9667ab5cf0c63bbba743316125979102.jpg
3fe761f2a734ceca5d930da8748cc54a.jpg

Did I do something wrong? They are inserted completely into diff and knuckle, I triple checked. Drives fine but not comfortable with the way they look, thanks.
 

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