How to install new CV Axles

[a4passata6]

Just did the driver side axle.

Never could get the wheel seal (knuckle seal) to seat. I even made a piece of wood to knock it in.

So, I just lightly held it on the knuckle and pushed the axle through outer (wheel) splines and tightened it up with the axle nut. Seated perfectly.

Drove it for about 30 minutes, no leaks.

We'll see how it looks tomorrow.

 

[Morphyne]

Wait I just reread this post. $700 for cv axels? Did I read that right? I paid $80 each for mine. Am I miss something here?

 

[S4TA]

I paid $440 for mine through CVJ and regret it. The shipping cost and finding out one of my cores was not OEM made it a complete waste. Paid $450 up front with shipping. Sent back my cores ($88 for shipping) and they only credited me one core ($95). So I effectively gave away my two cores. Any other place will credit both. Stick with local; not CVJ.

 

[Morphyne]

Duralast Gold/CV Axle 10298N - Read 2 Reviews on Duralast Gold #10298N

Here is a link to my cv axles. But I have a v6. Are the ones for a V8 that much more?!?!?

Nope. Still the same model # and price...

Ok this is really bugging me. I have research different model years. V6 vs v8. Even lexus. They are all the same part. And it only costs $79. What am I missing g here?

 

[S4TA]

Duralast Gold/CV Axle 10298N - Read 2 Reviews on Duralast Gold #10298N

Here is a link to my cv axles. But I have a v6. Are the ones for a V8 that much more?!?!?

Nope. Still the same model # and price...

Ok this is really bugging me. I have research different model years. V6 vs v8. Even lexus. They are all the same part. And it only costs $79. What am I missing g here?

Not sure about the $700, but I can explain my $440.

CVJ axles cost a bit more since they only refurbish OEM ones. Most places will refurbish anything and a lot of them are not OEM, including refurbished ones from Toyota. With that being said, I still think staying local is worth it or refurbish them yourself. CVJ is too much money.

$195 for axle which includes $99 core fee. Then you add shipping which is $50 for 2 axles (CO to FL). So total upfront was about $450.

For some reason when I went to ship them back, I couldn't find shipping any lower than $88. No one else would take back axles unless you bought them from them. Oh well... at least I would be getting back $200 bucks, but nope. Come to find out, one of mine was not OEM and they wouldn't give me anything for it. So I spent $88 to get $99 back. I should of kept both axles as spares. Lesson learned. Stick with local to avoid the hassle.

 

[Morphyne]

OK I just replaced my 3rd cv axel. Two from my 4runner and now this one for an 05 GX. I paid $68 for a rebuilt carquest axel plus tax. You guys are insane for paying that much. At $68 these things are ridiculously cheap for what you get. Even if they only last 50k miles they are a good deal. Considering how easy they are to change.

Not trying to be critical. not at all. but I am just trying to highlight the difference between dealership sales and DIY.

 

[t-man]

OK I just replaced my 3rd cv axel. Two from my 4runner and now this one for an 05 GX. I paid $68 for a rebuilt carquest axel plus tax. You guys are insane for paying that much. At $68 these things are ridiculously cheap for what you get. Even if they only last 50k miles they are a good deal. Considering how easy they are to change.

Not trying to be critical. not at all. but I am just trying to highlight the difference between dealership sales and DIY.

I say this about multiple parts from multiple posts on several t4r forums. Why pay 2x, 3x, 5x the price to get "OEM" when most of the aftermarket parts are made by the same company as oem, or to the same specs, or better. Sure, some company has a cheap product, but my ability to buy a Duralast CV from Autozone for $69 with a lifetime warranty negates any argument that I should only get a part from the stealership. They are the same strength, but with the cheaper one I get a warranty where they don't ask questions they just hand me a new part. I spend 2 hours taking it out, swapping at the store, and shoving the new one in. Back to wheeling boys!!:fencing:

 

[Morphyne]

So I am not swapping cores. Which means I have three of these oem beauties in my garage. Thoughts on what i should do with them?

 

[t-man]

So I am not swapping cores. Which means I have three of these oem beauties in my garage. Thoughts on what i should do with them?

Rebuild them

 

[Morphyne]

Ok. This is going to sound damn retarded. But i have one oem left on the pass side of the gx. If I repack and reboot these and put one on my gx that is going to really bother me that they don't match. But you are right that is the thing to do. Maybe I can rebuilt them for s &g and then sell them on cl for beer money.

 

[t-man]

Ok. This is going to sound damn retarded. But i have one oem left on the pass side of the gx. If I repack and reboot these and put one on my gx that is going to really bother me that they don't match. But you are right that is the thing to do. Maybe I can rebuilt them for s &g and then sell them on cl for beer money.

You can't really see them anyways. And most of the time when you get a replacement they don't match anyways. With the amount of lift I have and the cut bumpers and such I still never notice my axles. Lol

 

[bob3dsf]

I got 2 reman'd OEM CV axles from Toyota for ~$300. If I had turned in the cores i would have basically paid ~$100 each ($50 core refund). Not too bad, I'd say. I kept my old ones (only one had a torn boot) to re-boot and have as spares. If something happened and I had no use for them anymore I'll just sell them here to someone who needs them.

And to the OP, the CV looks like it's in and seated correctly.

 

[having fun]

I know this is a little old, but just a heads-up: I was following this earlier today and I think the part I quoted here is incorrect. Other write-ups state that the clip opening should be facing down, rather than up. The factory service manual says this as well. I was unable to get my new CV axle in until I rotated the clip opening to face down, then it popped right in.

I just had to do a axle change for the first time on a cv style. The write up I found/used stated to have the clip opening pointing up also.

I personally say that is WRONG also. I also see others all posting use a BFH to beat these axles out, personally say this is not totally necessary also.
[MENTION=64749]settytb[/MENTION] you might want to add this bottom part to your write up on the first posting.
After using a 2lb mini sledge and a 6" metal chisel, I also was (I though) pounding it out hard and it wasn't budging. So I rotated it a 1/3 turn and tried at it some more, no go, rotated again and started to lightly hit it and it popped right out easy. My theory is I had the clip position itself opening down and slid in the slot for minimal restriction.
I used the clip opening up to reinstall and was whacking away, no go, so turn it down. A couple light hits and slid right in.

 

[ubergeek]

Thanks and a couple of tips that I learned

I just finished installing a new axle and thought I would share what I learned (trying to contribute)

• Removing the dust cap takes time. Don't expect to pop it out immediately. Start with a thn flat screw driver.Don't give up.
• Removing the old axle can be PIA. It helps if your buddy can pry out together. Never give up
• 35mm socket is not sold at Sears. I bought it from NAPA.

Thanks everyone for sharing how-tos.
Some pictures to help folks understand how this cap is fit. Also, I've used this 12v Kawasaki Impact Wrench to remove nuts. I've had it for many years so far it's been absolutely great.

 

[nuclearsteel]

This is overdone but...I gots to ask!

So I had a torn inner right CV axle boot on my wife's 2008 4runner SR5 that I decided to change. After reading the forums I picked up a NAPA re-manufactured CV axle and a passenger side differential oil seal...I figured if it looked suspect I would replace it. Not a bad job...a few hours and I had it all apart and assembled. I didn't change the differential seal because it looked fine. I had no trouble getting the new shaft to snap in with a little tap from a hammer. Wish I would have had a new dust cover but anyways...I torqued her all down, refilled with Mobile 1 Gear Oil. I figured that I wouldn't put the skid plate on for a few days so if it leaked I could see it. Honestly to my surprise...it leaked. Now I will tell you have have rebuilt turbine gearboxes for power plants, rolling mills...you name it. WTF.

So I had already returned the SKF seal so I got a new one from Toyota and also picked up a steering knuckle seal since I have to take it all apart. To the point...I am reading all the business about not seating the seal (passenger side) to deep, so I open up the manual to see if it gives a depth...DF-10 to be exact. It reads "Install differential side gear shaft oil seal using SST and a hammer, install a new oil seal" and "Coat the oil seal lip with MP grease." Nothing about penetration depth!

I flip to DF-31 which is the Differential Side Gear Shaft Oil Seal..."Using SST and a plastic hammer, install a new oil seal until its surface is flush with the differential carrier end." and "Coat the oil seal lip with MP grease, Oil seal driven in depth -.045 to .45mm (-0.0177 to 0.0177in).

What gives? It gives a depth for the driver side and not the passenger side yet everyone seems to have trouble with the passenger side? I would say we are talking about the differential side gear shaft oil seals correct????

 

[fdbyrne]

Sometimes the part of the CV shaft that contacts the differential seal is mis-machined and will cause a poor seal. Sometimes they are machined to too small a diameter and sometimes they are just not smooth. That may be the problem. I've seen it before.

You can also damage the seal while sliding the splines through the opening. The grease is supposed to minimize that chance, but it's old rubber at this point and less resilient than a new seal.

If it were me, I'd replace the seal with an OEM replacement. Non-OEM options haven't worked well for me, personally. If it still leaks, you'll probably have to return your axle and get a replacement.

 

[nuclearsteel]

I agree with what you are saying...I will also mic the shaft that contacts the seal and check the finish on it (again). Other than it being old / brittle and taking a hit during the install, the only other possibility is the shaft diameter. I purchased an OEM seal and I will check fit when I remove the CV axle before installing it in the differential. Now if I only new a measurement for a new CV axle where the seal contacts the shaft....

 

[fdbyrne]

I have one at home that I can measure with a set of calipers when I get home. It'll be a few hours.

 

[nuclearsteel]

OH you are the man...I am waiting patiently.

 

[fdbyrne]

My reloading calipers measure the diameter exactly between 1.854 and 1.855 inches right at the spot where the rubber of the differential seal meets the CV axle.