How to install new CV Axles

[chewyspark47]

Hey guys so I finished the job today thanks to all you wonderful people. I drove around and no noises or anything weird. But after I drove it, i got out to check it out and noticed that the dust cover on the axle on the diff side, was not completely flush with the diff housing so o tried pushing it and it did the job but just curious for some other opinions. Also do you guys know if a little loss in diff fluid would affect rpms in any way?

Any info is much appreciated

 

[Steamdonkey]

...But after I drove it, i got out to check it out and noticed that the dust cover on the axle on the diff side, was not completely flush with the diff housing so I tried pushing it and it did the job but just curious for some other opinions. Also do you guys know if a little loss in diff fluid would affect rpms in any way?

If it's any consolation my '04 is the same way, there's a little bit of play that allows the axle to move in and out of the diff just a little. Fully pushed in, the outside of the dust cover is flush with the diff housing and if pulled outward it moves 1/8" - 3/16" and looks just your photo.

Not sure about the RPM / diff fluid level. I can't think of any reason the engine RPM would be affected unless the level was waaaay out of whack.

 

[ThatSickRip]

Yes the torque is 166 Ft/lbs.

I thought they were 118 ft lb, but it might depend on the model year in the service manual.

On my 2004 the torque spec was lower. It was around 118 lbs like you said. I don't have the info with me at work.

That torque value is what's listed in the 03 FSM from this site.

Though as you are aware, there are two different torques listed for the axle hub nut in that FSM.

Thread revival...

I rant into the same issue while doing mine (05). The 03 FSM says 166 ft/lbs, and the 06 & 07 FSM says 118 ft/lbs. fdbyrne says his is an 04 and wa 118 ft/lbs, so is it safe to say since 04, 06, 07 are all 118 and the 03 is 166, that the 05 would be 118 as well?

 

[Falcon3]

I’ve been using my 10 lb sledge a lot on my truck lately. More than i thought I ever would. I definitely used a big pry bar and pounded on it with the sledge to get the c clip to go in.

 

[ThatSickRip]

Just replaced a passenger cv shaft yesterday. One good pop to remove it. Lined up the new CV for a straight shot. A few good whacks on the cv nut area with a rubber mallet sent it home.


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My experience is that it takes a lot more than "light taps" from a rubber mallet to get the c-clip to pop in and seat fully. Might depend on how your c-clip is feeling on that day, but I'd be a bit worried about retention if the axle goes in that easily.

Me, I'll stick to applying impact forces to the FSM recommended spots, which are the machined grooves on the inner housing.

From the FSM...

The aftermarket CVs Ive seen dont have the notch that the OEM do. Unless theres a different way, I would think NJs method would be the one to use?

 

[duffdog]

The aftermarket CVs Ive seen dont have the notch that the OEM do. Unless theres a different way, I would think NJs method would be the one to use?

The Napa aftermarket CV's do have the notch, and look exactly like the factory units...only problem is that the shaft is .010 smaller than a factory unit so oil leaks around the shaft on both sides. Even with a new seal. I did however order custom seals that are 1mm undersized from NVX seals to solve this problem. I just wish I still had my factory CV's...

 

[Brutalguyracing]

The Napa aftermarket CV's do have the notch, and look exactly like the factory units...only problem is that the shaft is .010 smaller than a factory unit so oil leaks around the shaft on both sides. Even with a new seal. I did however order custom seals that are 1mm undersized from NVX seals to solve this problem. I just wish I still had my factory CV's...

Link to said seals please


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[10ac]

can someone please tell me the part numbers for ALL the seals needed when replacing the cv axles on both driver and passenger side please. OEM part numbers.
I have a 2006 Toyota 4Runner limited V8 AWD. dunno if the differential is different between AWD and 4X4 selectable.

I was planning to replace the needle bearing some people experience the groan from. Some people use the bushing on it but read won't work for my AWD model.

anyone know about the part number on the bearing and seal for that? NOTE: I have AWD and diff may be different.

 

[duffdog]

Link to said seals please


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Sorry, it was AVX seals:

Shaft Oil Seals TC46x80x13

They do make 46x80x10mm, but AVX seems to be out of them. I stacked 2 on the passenger side to ensure that there are no leaks, and I was lazy about aligning them perfectly, so stacking 2 cheap seals for a double seal seemed like a good idea.

 

[wrw4runner]

CV Axles

Toyota replaced my right side axle and I am having them do the left side this Monday. Both axle boots tore at the clamps recently at 120K miles. If anyone is interested in the old factory axles send me a PM. 2007 SE V6 4x4.

 

[eleven14]

Toyota replaced my right side axle and I am having them do the left side this Monday. Both axle boots tore at the clamps recently at 120K miles. If anyone is interested in the old factory axles send me a PM. 2007 SE V6 4x4.

I was in a pinch and replaced mine with Cardones but kept the OEM axles, planning to send to CVJ to be rebuilt. Something to consider if you think you might need spares...

 

[gfluff]

Trying to do a quickie, half ass boot repair. My inner boots are both torn fully in half. Outers are still ok. I have 4 new boots, grease, and hose-clamp style clamps from CVJ.
Can I:
Pop out the 2 LBJ bolts and swing the spindle out enuf to allow the inner part of the axle to come out of the cups on the diff side? If so, can I then pull the axle shaft out of the spindle side cups, then take the shaft fully out and install the new boots, then put it back into the truck, add grease, and get the boots properly located and snugged down with the clamps?
Trying to avoid popping the axle out of the hub...
What holds those tri-bearing pieces into the cups?

 

[UrbanRunner651]

Trying to do a quickie, half ass boot repair. My inner boots are both torn fully in half. Outers are still ok.

I'm in the same boat. just discovered my inners torn at the clamp. Really don't want to pull the whole thing apart.
Thought about adding a quick/split boot but have any experience with them and most say they only last about a year.

This has some good info, some say you can slide the boot over without pulling from the diff but it looks like either way the hub side would have to come apart..
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/176734-how-replace-your-cv-boots-4th-gen.html

 

[Mike Beyers]

The hub side has to come apart, but the tulip joint can stay in the axle housing. Just pull the inner side out, clean both ends, install boots, repack, and reinstall. It's more difficult installing the boot onto the tulip joint while its on the truck, but you don't disturb the axle seal.

 

[gfluff]

The hub side has to come apart, but the tulip joint can stay in the axle housing. Just pull the inner side out, clean both ends, install boots, repack, and reinstall. It's more difficult installing the boot onto the tulip joint while its on the truck, but you don't disturb the axle seal.

Is it possible to pull that tri-lobe bearing off the shaft with the hub side still attached? I may just do the inner boots for now.

 

[Mike Beyers]

I don't think so, but I have never tried. If your gonna go that far, do both ends.

 

[montijo505]

I’m in the middle of swapping bearings and can’t get one of my axles out of the hub no matter how hard I hit. I’m using a 5lb sledge and hitting against a piece of wood on the end of the shaft and it won’t budge. Bigger hammer? Any suggestions are appreciated.


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[970mtnrunner]

The Napa aftermarket CV's do have the notch, and look exactly like the factory units...only problem is that the shaft is .010 smaller than a factory unit so oil leaks around the shaft on both sides. Even with a new seal. I did however order custom seals that are 1mm undersized from NVX seals to solve this problem. I just wish I still had my factory CV's...

Interesting. I put Napa MaxDrive CV's in about 1.5 years/20k ago, along with brand new seals.
No runs, drips, or errors since.

 

[Brutalguyracing]

I’m in the middle of swapping bearings and can’t get one of my axles out of the hub no matter how hard I hit. I’m using a 5lb sledge and hitting against a piece of wood on the end of the shaft and it won’t budge. Bigger hammer? Any suggestions are appreciated.


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Don't use wood
Use a chisel

 

[Morphyne]

There are three lobes on the OEM CV axle. And there are flat spots where I put altherr straight end of a crow bar and pounded it out with a 3 pound hammer.