montijo505
Senior Member
Day late and a dollar short lol. Jk thanks but I just got an 8lb sledge and a piece of 4x4, sprayed it with WD-40 and she was a one hitter quitter after that.
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How to install new CV Axles
- Thread starter settytb
- Start date
Day late and a dollar short lol. Jk thanks but I just got an 8lb sledge and a piece of 4x4, sprayed it with WD-40 and she was a one hitter quitter after that.
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gfluff
Member
Did an inner reboot. Used SDHQ boots.
Used a sledge and a ball peen to pop the axle out of the hub. Turn the steering wheel to the side you’re working on, that lets the spindle swing up enuf to slide the tri-lobe out of the tulip. My inners were torn, so I just cut them at the biggest groove. Axle now out of truck, the tri-lobe came of easy with the snap ring pliers. Slid the new boot on, put the tri-lobe back on. Lotsa grease, put it back in the truck. Hose clamped the boots onto the tulip.
So far so good.
Used a sledge and a ball peen to pop the axle out of the hub. Turn the steering wheel to the side you’re working on, that lets the spindle swing up enuf to slide the tri-lobe out of the tulip. My inners were torn, so I just cut them at the biggest groove. Axle now out of truck, the tri-lobe came of easy with the snap ring pliers. Slid the new boot on, put the tri-lobe back on. Lotsa grease, put it back in the truck. Hose clamped the boots onto the tulip.
So far so good.
Tried to replace the cv axle on my 2nd gen today but I got stuck getting the nuts off the back of the axle that connects it to the diff. Even tried heating them up with a torch but still couldn't get them off. Unless anyone has a better idea I'm going to take an angle grinder to them and cut them off and just replace the bolts.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
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Tried to replace the cv axle on my 2nd gen today but I got stuck getting the nuts off the back of the axle that connects it to the diff. Even tried heating them up with a torch but still couldn't get them off. Unless anyone has a better idea I'm going to take an angle grinder to them and cut them off and just replace the bolts.
Any ideas?
Can I get a pic or a better description of these nuts? Bc there are no nuts that attach the CV to the diff
Mike Beyers
New member
Tried to replace the cv axle on my 2nd gen today but I got stuck getting the nuts off the back of the axle that connects it to the diff. Even tried heating them up with a torch but still couldn't get them off. Unless anyone has a better idea I'm going to take an angle grinder to them and cut them off and just replace the bolts.
Any ideas?
Uhhhhh, yeah.....should NOT have to do that.
Way to check grease levels?
Had my CV boots done by a local mechanic 3 years ago. My driver side had torn, and I just got both done because I figured the other was close behind it. Yesterday I put on new coils/shocks and noticed grease/dirt on one side of my LCA on the driver side (in addition to my LCA on the driver side rotating all the way down with no effort, which I assume means my bushings are worn/dead).
The grease was not fresh at all, and there was no leaking on the axle or signs of fresh grease on the axle. Could this just be old grease from my boot tear years ago that the shop didn't clean off? Is there a way to check the grease levels inside of the boot, or can I loosen the clamp and pump some more grease in there to see if there is a leak that I'm missing? I haven't noticed any problems in 4wd, no clunking, no loss of power, nothing.
Old grease on LCA - Album on Imgur
Had my CV boots done by a local mechanic 3 years ago. My driver side had torn, and I just got both done because I figured the other was close behind it. Yesterday I put on new coils/shocks and noticed grease/dirt on one side of my LCA on the driver side (in addition to my LCA on the driver side rotating all the way down with no effort, which I assume means my bushings are worn/dead).
The grease was not fresh at all, and there was no leaking on the axle or signs of fresh grease on the axle. Could this just be old grease from my boot tear years ago that the shop didn't clean off? Is there a way to check the grease levels inside of the boot, or can I loosen the clamp and pump some more grease in there to see if there is a leak that I'm missing? I haven't noticed any problems in 4wd, no clunking, no loss of power, nothing.
Old grease on LCA - Album on Imgur
The boot of my CV axle was ripped as well but learned replacing the whole CV axle would be easier and cleaner than trying to put a new boot on. Also putting on a new CV axle gives you that piece of mind that it is a new part that shouldn't break anytime soon.
TNFISHRMAN
New member
Thanks for a great write up. I will be tackling this tomorrow myself.
Brutalguyracing
New member
They look to be in stock now. Did you try to buy them from AVX?
Brutalguyracing
New member
Silky Bonifacio
New member
:cheers: to all of you for the info in this thread. Just did my original CVs (173k miles, whoop!) since they recently tore. The inner part was a mother to get out - sweat and swear for 2 hrs before I caved and rented a slide hammer with hose clamp trick. Then 4 taps. FML anyways.
Think I noticed a few other things. My UBJ and LBJ are both not firm (upper ripped) and my tie rod end is ripped. I don't think they've ever been replaced. I know 4th gens don't have the catastrophic failures that the priors did when the LBJs fail, but am I an idiot for driving on these while I wait for replacements? It's my DD and I don't really want to bike 15 miles to work in 90s+humidity.
LBJ:
UBJ:
Tie rod:
Think I noticed a few other things. My UBJ and LBJ are both not firm (upper ripped) and my tie rod end is ripped. I don't think they've ever been replaced. I know 4th gens don't have the catastrophic failures that the priors did when the LBJs fail, but am I an idiot for driving on these while I wait for replacements? It's my DD and I don't really want to bike 15 miles to work in 90s+humidity.
LBJ:
UBJ:
Tie rod:
montijo505
Senior Member
:cheers: to all of you for the info in this thread. Just did my original CVs (173k miles, whoop!) since they recently tore. The inner part was a mother to get out - sweat and swear for 2 hrs before I caved and rented a slide hammer with hose clamp trick. Then 4 taps. FML anyways.
Think I noticed a few other things. My UBJ and LBJ are both not firm (upper ripped) and my tie rod end is ripped. I don't think they've ever been replaced. I know 4th gens don't have the catastrophic failures that the priors did when the LBJs fail, but am I an idiot for driving on these while I wait for replacements? It's my DD and I don't really want to bike 15 miles to work in 90s+humidity.
LBJ:
UBJ:
Tie rod:
It’s not as hard as it sounds right? Getting that axle out has never really given me trouble. The last time I swapped one getting it back in is what gave me grief. I think you should be ok while you replace that stuff, as you have likely been driving on it that way anyway. However I would make it a priority.
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Silky Bonifacio
New member
My thoughts as well.
earthrealm
Senior Member
any tips on differentiating oem cv axles from after market ones?, i came across a new cv axle, private seller claims its oem, unsure how to verify his claims
Mine are in similar shape. I'm thinking about getting this:
03-09 Upper Lower Control Arm TieRod for Toyota 4Runner NO Kinetic Dynamic Susp | eBay
I dont wheel at all, this is just a daily driver. I mean, you cant beat the price...I jsut really need to get ~3-4 more years out of the 4Runner.
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AuSeeker
Elite Member
This topic is bout CV axles, the link you posted doesn't have any CV axles included in that kit. so what exactly is worn out on your T4R, the axles or the suspension and tie rods?
Edited for clarity...talking about all my ball joints/control arms.
