How to: Installing 3rd gen spark plugs

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I bought the plugs & wires but had the shop install them, way to much work. used ngk plugs and wires so they would be the right ones. found it funny when a 6 only used 3 wires, almost ordered 2 sets of wires so i was glad asked this same question here first. Don't you long for the good old days of just pulling the plug boot off and unscrewing and screwing in the new plugs, nothing to move but the air cleaner.

:usa2:
 
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Just wanted to drop in and say thank you for this thread. Made life easy! Took me about 45 minutes start to finish.
 
Was dropping into this thread to find out about torque settings when using anti-sieze vs without. Although that wasn't addressed above, I did see the following quote:

I posted this in another Plug thread, but just wanted to share some info I found:

So according to the NGK website, Anti-seize on their lugs actually increases the chances of breaking the plugs during installation. It alters the thread friction and causes a false sense of torque. They have a coating called Trivalent Plating which provides corrosion resistance and a natural anti seize property. So don't put anti seize on these plugs.

Did a google search and found this bulletin:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-0630111antisieze.pdf

Thought it would be valuable to back up what was posted above and provide a link.
 
Great post... I will use it to change my valve cover gaskets as well. That thing regarding use of nevr-seize.... suspect it's true...just got to get my head around it.

I've never used a torque wrench to set the plugs and used the old...1/4 turn -crush the washer--1/4 turn then snugs it up. That is consistent with a previous poster's comments of 1/2 a turn from finger tight.

Yep...got to get my head around no anti-seize....

Maybe just a little bit ?
 
Okay. I used this write up today (very helpful, thanks!) but could only get four of the six plugs in. The last two on the driver side nearest the firewall are giving me a real fit.

For some reason I canNOT get the wires out of the holes. The first coil closest to the radiator came off with no problem.

Has anyone else experienced this or have any advice for me? I moved everything out of the way so access to the wires is not an issue. I just can't pull them out in order to get to the plugs.
 
Were you able to get them off?

When I did mine, those were incredibly difficult to get off for me as well. I just kept pulling, spinning, easing it out. I also put a flat head under it to try and pry it out (gently, of course). Eventually it came off and since then, they come off easily, with no problems. (I think the weather makes them freeze up on the block.)
 
Were you able to get them off?

When I did mine, those were incredibly difficult to get off for me as well. I just kept pulling, spinning, easing it out. I also put a flat head under it to try and pry it out (gently, of course). Eventually it came off and since then, they come off easily, with no problems. (I think the weather makes them freeze up on the block.)

I never have this problem because I put dielectric grease on the connectors (and coil boots) every change. But I bet trying on a warm (not hot) engine might help.
 
Were you able to get them off?

When I did mine, those were incredibly difficult to get off for me as well. I just kept pulling, spinning, easing it out. I also put a flat head under it to try and pry it out (gently, of course). Eventually it came off and since then, they come off easily, with no problems. (I think the weather makes them freeze up on the block.)

I haven't had time to try again. I guess I'll just have to put my back in to it (gently of course).

Thanks for the advice about the screwdriver. Maybe i'll give that a go.

***UPDATE***
I went out to try again this morning and was able to get the last two off. Ironically, they popped right off without much effort. Not sure why, but so glad they did.
 
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thank you for this, very helpful sir!

i will be doing this thursday morning on my only day off :flamethrwoer2:
 
One or two quick thoughts. I just did mine in about an hour. I did not need to disconnect the plug wires from the coil packs. The only time I have done this is to change the plug wires. It is a tight fit but the entire coil pack came off. On the driver side I disconnected the vertical bracket between the last two and a ground wire that was in the way of the first plug. Not sure how long you are supposed to run plugs- I had 40K on mine and some time so I did them. I am glad I did. The plugs looked fine but they were starting to get seated in the engine. Removing them took a socket wrench until the last turn or so but installing the new ones - I could spin the plug in by hand until I need the torque wrench
 
Like it

Great write up. I've never changed the plugs, in a set up like this. It's all in the tricks - lower's the frustration level!
 
Some unsolicited advice from me... buy a can of compresses air from Office Depot/Wal-Mart/Wal Greens and spray it down inside the cylinders after you pull the wires out, before you remove the plugs. It will clean everything out so nothing falls down in there.

I made this mistake when in college with an F-150. I had a really dirty engine compartment and I had some leaves fall into an open hole and it F'ed things up really bad. I ended up selling it to someone because I couldn't afford to have the engine rebuilt or replaced. Everyone else may know this already but I didn't, and paid big time.

FYI... I'm changing my plugs, wires, and ignition coils this weekend, going with NKG. I bought the rig with 140K and now I'm at 266K and I have never changed them. As far as I know they weren't changed before I bought the truck either. Surely they were a more responsible owner than I am.
:happens:

I dont have any issues, I just figure its about that time.

While I respect your desire to finance the parts industry with your generous use of parts, have you calculated your fuel mileage and know the actual running condition of your 'runner? Coils are not cheap, especially if unneeded. Plugs and wires are one thing when those long intervals arrive, but after installing them it would be prudent to run a tank through the old girl and see where you stand on fuel mileage. Then, if the numbers are slumping add some coils and beam with pride on your noble attention to longevity. It's probably time for a new fuel filter and PVC valve, which may a bigger impact right off and cost only a few dollars. Just saying...
 
While I respect your desire to finance the parts industry with your generous use of parts, have you calculated your fuel mileage and know the actual running condition of your 'runner? Coils are not cheap, especially if unneeded. Plugs and wires are one thing when those long intervals arrive, but after installing them it would be prudent to run a tank through the old girl and see where you stand on fuel mileage. Then, if the numbers are slumping add some coils and beam with pride on your noble attention to longevity. It's probably time for a new fuel filter and PVC valve, which may a bigger impact right off and cost only a few dollars. Just saying...

I agree with this. Most Toyota Denso coils will outlive the truck they were born in. Not worth changing as a wear item given low fail rate and high cost. Especially since impending fail is signaled by a misfire code, as opposed to getting stuck on the side of the road.

But he makes a very good point about the air. I have a compressor in the basement with a hose to the garage so I just grab the air pistol.
 
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This post got me from start to finish in less than an hour. Only thing I would change is some mention of how/when to change out the wires. Otherwise 10/10.
 
Thanks for the write up. Nice write up for a simple project but still helpful taking the guesswork as to what's where, etc.

Upon taking my old plugs and wires out it seems I was running original plugs at 164k miles. I look forward to seeing how the drive is different.
 
Some folks were never taught these things growing up and have never attempted to do any type of mechanicing before. Can't knock a person for learning. Not to mention, some folks just don't care about turning wrenches and never want to do it. That's why there are mechanics. And then there are people like me who have rebuilt engines and have done just about everything that can be done on a car but pay people to do things like oil changes and valve cover gaskets because they just don't feel like screwing with it. Nothing wrong with any of these types of folks. Just different.
 
Great DIY... Thanks for taking the time. Just inherited my 2000 limited from my Father in Law. He was a gear head and meticulous with the care of all his vehicles. Plug definitely needed to be changed and instantly cured the sputtering under acceleration.
 

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