How to radiator replacement

Phd,

You still have to pull the lines. With the cooler, just remove the stock ones and cut to length the new ATF hose needed to reach the cooler.

If I were in your shoes, I'd run the external cooler after the ATF runs through the radiator.
 
Thanks for the write up, I just installed the amazon $88 1998 in my daughter's '00 164k. A couple questions and comments:

-the SOB that designed the grill mounts should be shot.

-my radiator required a little force to get 4 main mounting bolts to line up.

-I refilled the radiator to the top (with Toyota pink ) put the cap on and put a small amount, cold level in side tank. Is that correct?
 
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Bump for a little help...

-I refilled the radiator to the top (with Toyota pink ) put the cap on and put a small amount, cold level in side tank. Is that correct?
 
Bump for a little help...

-I refilled the radiator to the top (with Toyota pink ) put the cap on and put a small amount, cold level in side tank. Is that correct?

Park it facing slightly uphill or with front wheels on a curb or similar. Heater on hottest setting. Cap off, run engine until thermostat opens and water is circulating through rad. Keep adding fluid to rad until level is stable. Put cap on. If heater is hot go for a slow drive~10-15 minutes. If heater is not hot, keep at it. After drive, let cool. Fill reservoir to level. Keep eye on reservoir for a few days. It may want more as last air bubbles come out. Keep eye on temp gauge, too. If it gets too hot, repeat this bleed process.

This the way I do it--there are other ways to skin this cat.
 
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From page 1 of this thread:
Dont forget to burp when you're done installing the rad (and after enjoying a cold beverage).

From Wiki:

1.During the initial fill, fill the coolant reservoir bottle to the top of the cold fill range.

2.Set the temperature blend selector to the full warm position and the fan motor control to high for the front and rear heaters. (IMHO...you don't really need to turn the blower on, just turning it to hot will get coolant into the core, the fan will just let you know when you're feeling heat)

3.Start the vehicle with the reservoir cap off and allow to idle until the thermostat opens
NOTE: the coolant level will drop quite a bit when the thermostat opens - that's most of the air bubble in the system being driven to the top of radiator and escaping. Without the air, there's more room for coolant.

4.Top off the coolant in the reservoir bottle to the top of the cold fill
range.

5.Install and tighten the reservoir cap.

6.Increase the engine rpms to 3,000 for 15 seconds, and then return to idle for one minute.

7.Repeat the previous step four times or until heat is coming from the rear unit while the vehicle is idling.

8.Allow the vehicle to cool and top off the coolant in the reservoir to the cold fill range.
 
I'll be doing this on my son's 4Runner tomorrow. I replaced the radiator on my girlfriend's Lexus RX330 yesterday, so this looks a LOT easier. However, I have a question after looking at the existing radiator still on the vehicle, and now looking at the new one I received today (Denso from partsgeek.com). Could the side brackets just remain in place, and only the radiator itself be removed and replaced?

Besides disconnecting the hoses, it would seem that only the side mounting bolts connecting the radiator to the brackets (two on each side) need to be removed in order to slide the radiator up-and-out. This would avoid having to mess with all those clips. I guess it won't hurt to try.
 
I'll be doing this on my son's 4Runner tomorrow. I replaced the radiator on my girlfriend's Lexus RX330 yesterday, so this looks a LOT easier. However, I have a question after looking at the existing radiator still on the vehicle, and now looking at the new one I received today (Denso from partsgeek.com). Could the side brackets just remain in place, and only the radiator itself be removed and replaced?

Besides disconnecting the hoses, it would seem that only the side mounting bolts connecting the radiator to the brackets (two on each side) need to be removed in order to slide the radiator up-and-out. This would avoid having to mess with all those clips. I guess it won't hurt to try.

Hey just wanted to check if you installed the denso one? Is that a direct fit? I am planning to get the same one for my runner as the Koyo one is more than $150!
 
jdjohn, I recently did this job and honestly the bracket situation was hell for me.

So if you remove the 2 screws that holds each bracket in, the radiator slides out with EASE and you can use the new brackets in theory.

The reality for me (I dont know if others had this experience - 97 Limited 3.4 4WD) is that the screws on the left bracket were covered by all sorts of stuff and impossible to get to (I think the horn, and other stuff). I did NOT want to spend time removing all the stuff covering the left bracket screws (Maybe my tools just suck and cant reach?)

I ended up pulling my old radiator out AND putting the new one in with both old brackets still in place (It was not easy).
 
I've only swapped on radiator before (on my '91 Jeep YJ)... so is there anything particularly challenging in swapping in a Koyo radiator on my '96 4Runner SR5, or will it be a rather straight-forward replacement?
 
I've only swapped on radiator before (on my '91 Jeep YJ)... so is there anything particularly challenging in swapping in a Koyo radiator on my '96 4Runner SR5, or will it be a rather straight-forward replacement?

I found removing the grill to be the most challenging. Have 2 sharpies near by, they are perfect for plugging the transmission lines. Removing the lower left side bolt required a ratcheting wrench.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-20pc...P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1#crumbWrapper
 
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Hey just wanted to check if you installed the denso one? Is that a direct fit? I am planning to get the same one for my runner as the Koyo one is more than $150!

Sorry...a little late responding, but yes, the Denso was a perfect fit.

I found removing the grill to be the most challenging. Have 2 sharpies near by, they are perfect for plugging the transmission lines. Removing the lower left side bolt required a ratcheting wrench.

Golf tees also work well for plugging lines.
 
Not trying to resurrect an old thread but just wanted to +1 the Denso radiator. I thought there would be some jimmying or fanagling but it fit like it was the stock unit. Seems like awesome quality, too, a little more metal to it than the stock unit. Super easy swap. Burp process worked wonderfully as well and the golf tees were a pretty solid tip. Packaging was quality and it arrived at my door in two days. Do it.
 

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