How to: Replace JBL Subwoofer

haganwalker

New member
Hey everyone, I know that this issue has been talked about before and that ARK_SWAMP_RIDER has a post on how he changed his sub and added an amp, but I haven't found anyone that did the setup quite like I did. Also, I am new to the forums and wanted to contribute the best way I knew how, so I grabbed the bull by the horns and did this.

Whereas ARK_SWAMP_RIDER had to put his amp under the passenger seat, mine is hidden under the rear panel with the sub, which I like a whole lot more because you don't have to worry about people kicking your amp when they are in the back seat, etc. I also used a KICKER Comp 8 subwoofer because KICKER seems to be a well-known and good brand around these parts, and that little 8 inch sub has some surprising sound. (and it was only $50.00 off eBay with free shipping)

Removing the rear plastic to get to the sub is somewhat of a pain. Don't be afraid to pull the plastic, but make sure that you have found all of the hidden screws that need to be unscrewed (including the seat belt buckle on the right rear seat. I ran my positive battery wire straight from the battery through the firewall and under the door panels to the back seat, then under the carpet under the rear seats to the passenger side, where it connects to the amp itself. everything else needed is located in that area, which makes it extremely easy because extra wires do not need to be run. I used the wires that the existing sub plugged into and connected them to the high speaker inputs on my amp. green and black are left I believe and red and yellow wires are right. Don't quote me on that. For the ground, I undid a screw that held the JBL preexisting amp into place and wound the wire around that. The remote wire was the hardest part, as I ran it under the carpet to the center console. The end product was a satisfying sound of bass, but everything looks factory. I lost absolutely no space in the car, and I don't have to worry about someone getting dirty feet on my amp or spilling a drink on it because it is totally discrete and out of the way.

The amp I used was one from my first setup in my old 1998 4Runner...a Fusion 300 watt peak amp...nothing great, but with 150 watts RMS, it was enough to power the 8" KICKER and was small enough to fit in the rear panel also (it is placed upside down, because that is how it fit best). Take a look at the pictures, the amp fits UNDER where the factory NAV DVD thingy goes, so even if you have that, this setup should still work for you. If you have any questions, let me know. Overall I am completely pleased. My remote for my amp stays almost at a minimum, just enough to accompany some songs with some bass...something my JBL sub sucked at, but not enough to be overpowering....turning the remote up all the way will shake my rear-view mirror and people can hear (feel the bass) as i'm coming down the road. I am super pleased with this setup and love that everything is discrete and out of the way. I hope it helps!
 

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Is it possible to get just the subwoofer cover off like you have in your second picture without taking all of the side trim off?

I need to get at the power outlet so I can replace the housing and I couldn't reach it from the tail light bulb access panel.
 
Is it possible to get just the subwoofer cover off like you have in your second picture without taking all of the side trim off?

I need to get at the power outlet so I can replace the housing and I couldn't reach it from the tail light bulb access panel.

No, it'll break.
 
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Here's my install.

2 sets of JL Audio C5 650 components JL Audio C5-650 Evolution Car Audio Speakers
1 JL Audio XD700/5 amp JL Audio XD700/5 Amplifiers - Car Audio Amps & Amplifiers
Wiring
Adaptor plates for front speakers
JL Audio 8W1v2-4 subwoofer to put in JBL sub box. JL Audio 8W1v2 Subwoofers - Car Audio Subwoofers
2 packs of dynamat extreme

My brother and I did the install. Took 11 hours.

Everything fit- only still-to-do is that I used 16' RCA's so I have 10' left over x3 cables- so there's 30 feet of RCA coiled up under the seat on top of the amp. I'll have to get some 6 or 8 footers and redo the RCAs.

Tweeter brackets made from bar aluminum and painted black. Mounted two cross overs under each seat- will secure to carpet with velcro.

First up was taking the cargo area apart and getting to the stock JBL sub and amp.
IMG_0608.jpg~original


JL 1W8 sub vs stock

IMG_0612.jpg~original

IMG_0611.jpg~original


Stock back of sub box

IMG_0614.jpg~original

Had to grind almost an inch of plastic webbing to make room. Then dynomatted the exterior of the box removing the JBL amp.

IMG_0613.jpg~original

IMG_0615.jpg~original

IMG_0616.jpg~original

IMG_0617.jpg~original

Doors fully dynomatted and Tacoma speaker spacers used to replace the JBL stuff.

IMG_0618.jpg~original

IMG_2998.jpg~original

IMG_2999.jpg~original


Rear door

IMG_3001.jpg~original

Tweeter and bracket

IMG_2997.jpg~original


Halfway into the project:

IMG_3000.jpg~original


Had to flush mount rear tweeters

IMG_0621.jpg~original


Kenwood DNX6960

IMG_0620.jpg~original


The ugly wires still to be dealt with.

IMG_0622.jpg~original


Can't wait to go for a drive and listen to it. Sound check in the garage was very impressive!
 
Last edited:
asmara, I originally got to the sub this way. you can do it but like zimm says, you can mess up. The piece you are talking about is put on with like plastic rivets that must be broken or undone before that single plastic piece will come off. just be careful if you choose to go that route.

zimm, I am impressed! In my old 1998 4Runner, I installed a Pioneer Avic F700BT, double din navi unit...and would really like to have navi in my new 4Runner...but I hate how toyota differed from the standard double din box. Was installing that HU hard? I was looking for a 2006+ 4Runner with the factory navi already installed, but this 4Runner was such a good price, there was no way I could pass it up.

everyone keep posting pics!
 
Thanks for the explanation haganwalker.

BTW - if you look in my sig you'll see a step-by-step for installing that Nav unit (DNX6960) including the Toyota OEM part number for making the double din Nav look just like the factory Nav. Pics as well.
 
Yup the headunit install was easy. The metra kit fits right in. Hardest part was running the wire and mounting the back up camera. I put it in the stock location.
 
quick ??

So when you installed your sub you took the ground side of the sub and jumped it to the body and not to the ground on the amp?
 
Yes, you'll have to grind/punch out the plastic webbing inside the box in order to mount almost all aftermarket subs. It's not that hard to do, just takes a little patience and time!
 
Sorry if this is a total rehash of this thread.

Would any of these work with the stock amp (Stock Synthesis setup) ? They are 2ohms and dual voice coil? I looked for the shallow mounted ones.
Compare: Component Subwoofers at Crutchfield.com

I'm trying my best to just find a sub swap out, without having to add and/or change the amp. I've already replaced the HU and tied it in with an out-of-the-box wiring harness. My sub is totally blown - I can hear it rattling and buzzing :cry:
 
Sorry if this is a total rehash of this thread.

Would any of these work with the stock amp (Stock Synthesis setup) ? They are 2ohms and dual voice coil? I looked for the shallow mounted ones.
Compare: Component Subwoofers at Crutchfield.com

I'm trying my best to just find a sub swap out, without having to add and/or change the amp. I've already replaced the HU and tied it in with an out-of-the-box wiring harness. My sub is totally blown - I can hear it rattling and buzzing :cry:

JL audio swap... look at the thread mentioned by ARK SWAMP RIDER
 
I looked at that thread. I want to do an R&R without having to add another amp. I just want to find a suitable "like the same" replacement so it's an easy swap.

You would be hard pressed to find a decent sub that is efficient enough for that amp to power.

I would add the sub/amp combo. I'm thrilled with it.
 

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