How to: Replace JBL Subwoofer

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but thought I'd ask here first. Does anybody know the height underneath the bracket on the wheel well where the op mounted his amp? I'd like to look for an amp for a sub and it would be helpful to know the dimensions in that area. Thanks!
 
Hey everyone, I know that this issue has been talked about before and that ARK_SWAMP_RIDER has a post on how he changed his sub and added an amp, but I haven't found anyone that did the setup quite like I did. Also, I am new to the forums and wanted to contribute the best way I knew how, so I grabbed the bull by the horns and did this.

Whereas ARK_SWAMP_RIDER had to put his amp under the passenger seat, mine is hidden under the rear panel with the sub, which I like a whole lot more because you don't have to worry about people kicking your amp when they are in the back seat, etc. I also used a KICKER Comp 8 subwoofer because KICKER seems to be a well-known and good brand around these parts, and that little 8 inch sub has some surprising sound. (and it was only $50.00 off eBay with free shipping)

Removing the rear plastic to get to the sub is somewhat of a pain. Don't be afraid to pull the plastic, but make sure that you have found all of the hidden screws that need to be unscrewed (including the seat belt buckle on the right rear seat. I ran my positive battery wire straight from the battery through the firewall and under the door panels to the back seat, then under the carpet under the rear seats to the passenger side, where it connects to the amp itself. everything else needed is located in that area, which makes it extremely easy because extra wires do not need to be run. I used the wires that the existing sub plugged into and connected them to the high speaker inputs on my amp. green and black are left I believe and red and yellow wires are right. Don't quote me on that. For the ground, I undid a screw that held the JBL preexisting amp into place and wound the wire around that. The remote wire was the hardest part, as I ran it under the carpet to the center console. The end product was a satisfying sound of bass, but everything looks factory. I lost absolutely no space in the car, and I don't have to worry about someone getting dirty feet on my amp or spilling a drink on it because it is totally discrete and out of the way.

The amp I used was one from my first setup in my old 1998 4Runner...a Fusion 300 watt peak amp...nothing great, but with 150 watts RMS, it was enough to power the 8" KICKER and was small enough to fit in the rear panel also (it is placed upside down, because that is how it fit best). Take a look at the pictures, the amp fits UNDER where the factory NAV DVD thingy goes, so even if you have that, this setup should still work for you. If you have any questions, let me know. Overall I am completely pleased. My remote for my amp stays almost at a minimum, just enough to accompany some songs with some bass...something my JBL sub sucked at, but not enough to be overpowering....turning the remote up all the way will shake my rear-view mirror and people can hear (feel the bass) as i'm coming down the road. I am super pleased with this setup and love that everything is discrete and out of the way. I hope it helps!
Ok so forgive any ignorance here, I haven't had a chance to open up the back panel yet because I haven't purchased the sub and amp yet (trying to get rid of my 12 from my previous car). So which is the amp that you put in after the fact in the top picture, is it the one next to the sub or the one on top of the wheel well, just trying to figure out the space factor for the amp.
 
You may have already touched on this, but does the stock jbl head unit have the right inputs to connect an amp and sub? Or did you get an after market deck?
 
Hey everyone, I know that this issue has been talked about before and that ARK_SWAMP_RIDER has a post on how he changed his sub and added an amp, but I haven't found anyone that did the setup quite like I did. Also, I am new to the forums and wanted to contribute the best way I knew how, so I grabbed the bull by the horns and did this.

Whereas ARK_SWAMP_RIDER had to put his amp under the passenger seat, mine is hidden under the rear panel with the sub, which I like a whole lot more because you don't have to worry about people kicking your amp when they are in the back seat, etc. I also used a KICKER Comp 8 subwoofer because KICKER seems to be a well-known and good brand around these parts, and that little 8 inch sub has some surprising sound. (and it was only $50.00 off eBay with free shipping)

Removing the rear plastic to get to the sub is somewhat of a pain. Don't be afraid to pull the plastic, but make sure that you have found all of the hidden screws that need to be unscrewed (including the seat belt buckle on the right rear seat. I ran my positive battery wire straight from the battery through the firewall and under the door panels to the back seat, then under the carpet under the rear seats to the passenger side, where it connects to the amp itself. everything else needed is located in that area, which makes it extremely easy because extra wires do not need to be run. I used the wires that the existing sub plugged into and connected them to the high speaker inputs on my amp. green and black are left I believe and red and yellow wires are right. Don't quote me on that. For the ground, I undid a screw that held the JBL preexisting amp into place and wound the wire around that. The remote wire was the hardest part, as I ran it under the carpet to the center console. The end product was a satisfying sound of bass, but everything looks factory. I lost absolutely no space in the car, and I don't have to worry about someone getting dirty feet on my amp or spilling a drink on it because it is totally discrete and out of the way.

The amp I used was one from my first setup in my old 1998 4Runner...a Fusion 300 watt peak amp...nothing great, but with 150 watts RMS, it was enough to power the 8" KICKER and was small enough to fit in the rear panel also (it is placed upside down, because that is how it fit best). Take a look at the pictures, the amp fits UNDER where the factory NAV DVD thingy goes, so even if you have that, this setup should still work for you. If you have any questions, let me know. Overall I am completely pleased. My remote for my amp stays almost at a minimum, just enough to accompany some songs with some bass...something my JBL sub sucked at, but not enough to be overpowering....turning the remote up all the way will shake my rear-view mirror and people can hear (feel the bass) as i'm coming down the road. I am super pleased with this setup and love that everything is discrete and out of the way. I hope it helps!
Hey, did you have to take out the carpet piece that folds up to make like a step?

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JBL Replacement - Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8

I finally replaced my stock sub and thought I would share some info -

This Fosgate sub is shallow mount with 2ohm / dual voice coils. It fits perfect using stock wires with no modifications to sub box and sounds great with the stock amp. I actually keep the bass level at 0 or 1 with the stock head unit and there is plenty of bass.

Thanks to all of the great write ups it took about 20 mins to take everything apart, 10 mins to put in the new sub/test and 30 mins to put it back together (forgot where some screws went).

The sub was $120... on sale at Crutchfield right now.
 
Replace 2007 4Runner Rear panel Subwoofer

Hi! I'm new to this thread but would love some help if possible. My rear panel subwoofer on my 2007 4Runner went out recently and I've been trying to research new subwoofers that fit in the space that are compatible with the RMS power coming out of the amp. Does anyone have any subwoofers they recommend? Not looking for a super fancy or expensive one, just one to replace to get the job done.

Also, if anyone has any tips on how to remove the factory subwoofer and install the new subwoofer I would love to hear them. Thanks!
 
Ive been very happy with the one i listed just before you wrote. For removing the trim pieces, search the forum and youtube. There is plenty out there.
 
Ive been very happy with the one i listed just before you wrote. For removing the trim pieces, search the forum and youtube. There is plenty out there.
Will this subwoofer work well with the factory amp? I chatted with a guy at Crutchfield who said that no subs would really work unless I replaced the whole amp/sub combo. Thanks! Not looking for tons of bass or anything, just a working replacement.
 
Last edited:
Yes, it works great with the factory amp. The specs between the two subs similar, just a higher watt rating on the new one. Most important it that both have dual voice coils are the same size so install was easy. No cutting of the plastic speaker box at all. I run the bass setting at half and it sounds better than stock ever did.

Looks like it is still on sale at Crutchfield.
 
I finally replaced my stock sub and thought I would share some info -

This Fosgate sub is shallow mount with 2ohm / dual voice coils. It fits perfect using stock wires with no modifications to sub box and sounds great with the stock amp. I actually keep the bass level at 0 or 1 with the stock head unit and there is plenty of bass.

Thanks to all of the great write ups it took about 20 mins to take everything apart, 10 mins to put in the new sub/test and 30 mins to put it back together (forgot where some screws went).

The sub was $120... on sale at Crutchfield right now.

Hello- I am having the same issue now. It looks like the sub model number was removed from your post. Would you be so kind as to repost it or Pm it to me?

:thanks:
 
Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8
Punch Stage 3 shallow 8" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils

Price has gone up since 2018. I bought it for $119.99 and $169.99 seems to be the price at Crutchfield and others online.

Looks like there is a Amazon warehouse deal for $99 right now. Might be worth a look since the sub is hidden from cosmetic issues and I think returns are free if it doesn't work out.
 
I got the "Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 8-inch Shallow-Mount Subwoofer with 600 Watts Max Power". Currently not available on amazon, but I was able to get it to fit without drilling new holes. Took a little wiggling back and forth to get holes to line up right.

My main tip is that you don't *have* to take the seatbelt off. The panel should have enough flex in it. I found that, after taking mine out, it had been cross threaded. Ended up having to purchase a new bolt.
 

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