How to: Replace steering rack guide- Pictures
- Thread starter yukonrider
- Start date
stever1000
New member
I replaced my steering rack guide last year and my steering is still sloppy. When I drive over uneven bumps or irregularities in the road my steering moves side to side in my hands. What else could be causing this? My steering rack bushings have also been replaced
Its not too bad because Im used to it now, but my girlfriend doesn't like it.
My front end is all rebuilt too (lower control arms, tie rod ends, ball joints, etc)
Its not too bad because Im used to it now, but my girlfriend doesn't like it.
My front end is all rebuilt too (lower control arms, tie rod ends, ball joints, etc)
Mudeprived
New member
Either slop in the steering slip joint under the dash, rack guide not set correctly, or rack is fubar. Jack up the front end, set it on jack stands, and try wiggling both tires at 3 and 9. Feel for a clunk.
I replaced my rack guide for the exact same symptoms. It did not fix it and I had noticeable play in drivers side inner tie rod with a clunk. Tie rods were fine and rack was toast. My new Detroit Axle rack had the same issue a year later and I had to tighten the rack guide a little tighter than these write-ups state. I lost a little return to center but no more wobble.
stever1000
New member
hmm that would be disappointing if it was the actual rack
I will jack it up like you say
Thanks!
eurasiaoverland
Member
Hi guys,
Could someone please tell me the size of the fitting on the new style, female drive adjusting nut? In metric please as I'm in Europe
Thanks,
EO
Could someone please tell me the size of the fitting on the new style, female drive adjusting nut? In metric please as I'm in Europe
Thanks,
EO
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
Hi guys,
Could someone please tell me the size of the fitting on the new style, female drive adjusting nut? In metric please as I'm in Europe
The hex flats are 24mm across.
TonyB66
New member
I wasn't able to proceed with a scheduled alignment yesterday due to play in the driver side front wheel. I replicated at home on jack stands, with clear movement with alternating force at 3/9 o'clock...
So, since tightening the old style guide down a little eliminates this movement, I'm inclined to get this new version guide, instead of new rack, which the alignment shop figured I needed (we ruled-out the tie rods, LBJs and bushings as those are all new)...
For those who replaced the guide, was this fix a lasting one, like good for a year or longer? If one needs to keep tightening it periodically, and to the point to where steering return is lost or steering becomes too tight, there needs to be another solution of course, like maybe a new rack, at least in my case.
The guide parts look to be about 90 bucks delivered from Camelback and others. I'm considering putting that money into a new OEM rack, which is on the preventative maintenance list anyways, but I was going to do that a year or two out when I hit 200k miles...
So, for those who did this at least a year or two ago, still happy with the results?
So, since tightening the old style guide down a little eliminates this movement, I'm inclined to get this new version guide, instead of new rack, which the alignment shop figured I needed (we ruled-out the tie rods, LBJs and bushings as those are all new)...
For those who replaced the guide, was this fix a lasting one, like good for a year or longer? If one needs to keep tightening it periodically, and to the point to where steering return is lost or steering becomes too tight, there needs to be another solution of course, like maybe a new rack, at least in my case.
The guide parts look to be about 90 bucks delivered from Camelback and others. I'm considering putting that money into a new OEM rack, which is on the preventative maintenance list anyways, but I was going to do that a year or two out when I hit 200k miles...
So, for those who did this at least a year or two ago, still happy with the results?
floatingkiwi
Member
Yep, 5 years ago. GReat.
TonyB66
New member
firemanj92
New member
Hey [MENTION=175921]TonyB66[/MENTION] I've got a new rack guide, spring, bolt and retainer nut for sale in the classifieds if your interested. Here's the link-I had to buy a new rack because I had a leak I found.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/for-sale-t4r-items/245421-fs-3rd-gen-rack-guide-spring-cover-$80-norcal.html
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/for-sale-t4r-items/245421-fs-3rd-gen-rack-guide-spring-cover-$80-norcal.html
Last edited:
TonyB66
New member
Drat, placed an order for all four items last night and I was told they would ship this morning. Thanks much.
Supermoney
New member
I replaced mine two years ago, but think I might readjust and make sure the torque is spot on. I don't remember being exactly precise last time, was more of a trial and error thing. But going to go by the FSM this time.
Hi Guys,
My 1996 has developed clunking in the front when turning at slow speeds like pulling in the driveway. I can feel it the most under my feet which leads me to believe that it could be the guide. Before spending on other things, I want to try this one out. It seems easy.
For those who have done this, can this be done without lifting the truck? Thanks in advance.
My 1996 has developed clunking in the front when turning at slow speeds like pulling in the driveway. I can feel it the most under my feet which leads me to believe that it could be the guide. Before spending on other things, I want to try this one out. It seems easy.
For those who have done this, can this be done without lifting the truck? Thanks in advance.
[email protected]
New member
Replaced all my rear suspension bushings And fixed A LOT of my steering slop and swerving at highway speed. It appears I had some “rear steer” from worn out crap back there. Also adjusted my steering rack guide,(I still have the old style in my ‘98.) I’m getting after my front control arm bushings, ball joints and the intermediate shaft tomorrow.
FWIW, my truck drives almost like a new one after the rear bushings swap, it’s like night and day. Took out all the body roll out and the diving on braking seems to have calmed way down as well.
FWIW, my truck drives almost like a new one after the rear bushings swap, it’s like night and day. Took out all the body roll out and the diving on braking seems to have calmed way down as well.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Curious how many miles you have on yours. I just did a bunch of work on the front end (I'm basically LCA bushings away from having a nearly rebuilt front end). Between that stuff and a fresh alignment (still amazed they get 1.4 degrees of caster out of frozen cams in the bushings on one side) my truck is driving significantly better on the highway but I'm wondering if I should tackle those rear control arm bushings sooner or later. Who knows maybe I've gotten so used to how crappy this truck drove when I first got it that I don't know how good it could be. Most of the rubber I've looked at on my truck looks pretty good for 278k but I guess it's possible for bushings to not be torn but still be sloppy. What did your old bushings look like? Will probably do what I'm currently working on for the front and grab some pick n pull arms to put new bushings in if I decide to refresh the rear. So cheap to do it this way and ensure I don't have snags with my truck on stands for days on end while I fight stubborn parts.
[email protected]
New member
My bushings were SHOT due to it being a salvage vehicle from St. Augustine Florida after a hurricane in 2007. All my rubber was toast from being submerged for a month in brackish water.
I wound up replacing everything from the front to rear including inner tie rods that were frozen with rust. One was actually bent 15 degrees off center which also hurt my alignment.
I replaced all UCA and LCA bushings from Timmy the tool man videos, adjusted my steering sloop, flushed my PS fluid, and now working on my coolant flush.
Mileage isn’t correct because the dash was replaced before I bought it. It looks like it’s been through the wringer underneath and car Fax agrees. I’ve got about 6K in it now but she drives like a new one.
I wound up replacing everything from the front to rear including inner tie rods that were frozen with rust. One was actually bent 15 degrees off center which also hurt my alignment.
I replaced all UCA and LCA bushings from Timmy the tool man videos, adjusted my steering sloop, flushed my PS fluid, and now working on my coolant flush.
Mileage isn’t correct because the dash was replaced before I bought it. It looks like it’s been through the wringer underneath and car Fax agrees. I’ve got about 6K in it now but she drives like a new one.
The 01-02 updated guide swap is WORTH IT FOR ALL 96-00 4Runners with the old bearing style guide. Took out all the steering slop and my truck is much more stable on the highway and driving casually it stays centered and not all over the place like before. I reused the lock nut and washer but seem like the old cover could also be reused. Repacking the grease + OEM torque spec is key to this.
Thatgoodfellow
New member
I did this fixed today and now I noticed a whine from my power steering when turning the wheel.
Anybody else have this issue after the guide replacement?
Anybody else have this issue after the guide replacement?
spartacus
Senior Member
Whine is normally related to the PS pump screen being dirty, air in the system or level of Trans fluid in the PS system.
https://youtu.be/5k61KXRK8bM?si=fONDhxgx9uyPNEv8
