How to replace your CV Boots 4th Gen

[T2MFE]

I have seen a few members ask how to do this process and the only response was to "Change your CV shafts" x 20. :twitch: So, this is pretty simple to do and more cost effective if your boots are just torn. If your boots are torn AND you hear them clicking by all means change your half shafts bc they are going out anyhow. I will preface this with it was time consuming @ about 1.5 hrs (per side) with air tools. You need a 19mm socket to take off the bottom A-Arm and a 35mm to get the CV shaft hub nut off, a CV boot clamp crimp tool ($8)/Safety wire pliers w/a screwdriver and beer assistant. Other than that, plan on making a BIG mess. I would use plastic grocery bags to wipe the grease off my hands and catch the expended grease.

*If you aren't 80% confident in your mechanical abilities don't do this*

1)Jack, Chock, and remove the tire.
2)Take a screwdriver w/ hammer and remove the hub cover.
3)Remove the cotter key and retainer
4)Remove the 35mm Hub nut
5)Remove the CV shaft with a piece of wood and sledge... Use something soft on the shaft side and something heavy on the other side of it.
6)Remove the 2 19mm A-Arm bolts.
7)Have the beer assistant help you move the rotor UCA assembly (assy) out and away from the truck while you hold the shaft of the half shaft.
8)*Put cardboard, plastic bags or a drip pan down*
Now that the shaft is clear of the hub remove the two clamps on the inner shaft boot. After the clamps are off cut, the boot and remove the shaft but be careful not to bump the bearings.
9)Use some Snap Ring pliers to take the C-Clip off of the end of the shaft.***PAY ATTENTION HOW IT CAME OFF*** The beveled splines will go towards the shaft not to the transfer case when you are re-installing this assy.
10)Remove the inner bearing assy and wrap it in a rag to keep it from getting contaminated
11)Remove the clamps on the outer boot and cut or slide the boot off the shaft. Again make sure you have something to catch the grease in.
12)Clean what you can but don't get too crazy. Pack the outer bearing assy with the grease provided in the kit.
13)Put some PET (Vaseline) on the small opening to help it slide over the shaft.
14) Make sure you have the outer shaft boot (smooth circle) facing out towards the hub assy. Once in position clamp both sides of the boot. -The inner boot has channels for the boot to sit in-
15)PET the inner boot's small opening and slide it to it's stop. Clamp the small opening and put the large clamp over the housing close to the transfer case so you can install it after the shaft is installed.
16)Clean and inspect the inner bearing housing. If you see cracks, gouges or galling you are screwed and need to R2 (remove and replace) the CV Joint Assy.
17)Put 3/4 of the grease pack into the housing and slam the rest in the exposed bearings.
18)Install is reverse of removal. You might have to go between locking the front diff and having it free spin to get the inner assy to fall into place.
19)After you see threads of the shaft come out of the hub hand start the 35mm nut then hand tighten to ensure you aren't hitting spline to spline.
20)Torque the Hub nut and install the cotter key.
21)USE BRAKE CLEANER ANYTIME YOU TOUCH YOUR ROTOR!!!
22)OPs Check.

 

[T2MFE]

Here are the rest of the pics...

 

[Mida]

Here are the rest of the pics...

What's the name of the housing in the number 2 pic.

See pic of mine attached.

 

[calebcalandra]

1)Jack, Chock, and remove the tire.
2)Take a screwdriver w/ hammer and remove the hub cover.
3)Remove the cotter key and retainer
4)Remove the 35mm Hub nut
5)Remove the CV shaft with a piece of wood and sledge... Use something soft on the shaft side and something heavy on the other side of it.

Can you explain #5 more please?

 

[theoutbackdream]

I have seen a few members ask how to do this process and the only response was to "Change your CV shafts" x 20. :twitch: So, this is pretty simple to do and more cost effective if your boots are just torn. If your boots are torn AND you hear them clicking by all means change your half shafts bc they are going out anyhow. I will preface this with it was time consuming @ about 1.5 hrs (per side) with air tools. You need a 19mm socket to take off the bottom A-Arm and a 35mm to get the CV shaft hub nut off, a CV boot clamp crimp tool ($8)/Safety wire pliers w/a screwdriver and beer assistant. Other than that, plan on making a BIG mess. I would use plastic grocery bags to wipe the grease off my hands and catch the expended grease.

*If you aren't 80% confident in your mechanical abilities don't do this*

1)Jack, Chock, and remove the tire.
2)Take a screwdriver w/ hammer and remove the hub cover.
3)Remove the cotter key and retainer
4)Remove the 35mm Hub nut
5)Remove the CV shaft with a piece of wood and sledge... Use something soft on the shaft side and something heavy on the other side of it.
6)Remove the 2 19mm A-Arm bolts.
7)Have the beer assistant help you move the rotor UCA assembly (assy) out and away from the truck while you hold the shaft of the half shaft.
8)*Put cardboard, plastic bags or a drip pan down*
Now that the shaft is clear of the hub remove the two clamps on the inner shaft boot. After the clamps are off cut, the boot and remove the shaft but be careful not to bump the bearings.
9)Use some Snap Ring pliers to take the C-Clip off of the end of the shaft.***PAY ATTENTION HOW IT CAME OFF*** The beveled splines will go towards the shaft not to the transfer case when you are re-installing this assy.
10)Remove the inner bearing assy and wrap it in a rag to keep it from getting contaminated
11)Remove the clamps on the outer boot and cut or slide the boot off the shaft. Again make sure you have something to catch the grease in.
12)Clean what you can but don't get too crazy. Pack the outer bearing assy with the grease provided in the kit.
13)Put some PET (Vaseline) on the small opening to help it slide over the shaft.
14) Make sure you have the outer shaft boot (smooth circle) facing out towards the hub assy. Once in position clamp both sides of the boot. -The inner boot has channels for the boot to sit in-
15)PET the inner boot's small opening and slide it to it's stop. Clamp the small opening and put the large clamp over the housing close to the transfer case so you can install it after the shaft is installed.
16)Clean and inspect the inner bearing housing. If you see cracks, gouges or galling you are screwed and need to R2 (remove and replace) the CV Joint Assy.
17)Put 3/4 of the grease pack into the housing and slam the rest in the exposed bearings.
18)Install is reverse of removal. You might have to go between locking the front diff and having it free spin to get the inner assy to fall into place.
19)After you see threads of the shaft come out of the hub hand start the 35mm nut then hand tighten to ensure you aren't hitting spline to spline.
20)Torque the Hub nut and install the cotter key.
21)USE BRAKE CLEANER ANYTIME YOU TOUCH YOUR ROTOR!!!
22)OPs Check.

Sorry for bumping this old thread, but I plan on changing my boots since it seems apparent that the OEM axles are much better than any aftermarket axle.

With that said, I've never re-booted a car, but am comfortable with doing things like this. I have two questions..

1. As far as tools go, you mentioned: "You need a 19mm socket to take off the bottom A-Arm and a 35mm to get the CV shaft hub nut off, a CV boot clamp crimp tool ($8)/Safety wire pliers w/a screwdriver and beer assistant." Whats the difference between the Boot clamp crimp tool and safety wire pliers? Do I really need both?
2. Does the axle on the diff side stay on the car, so that the dogbone and outer CV can just come out like pictured? I watched some youtube videos and it seems like it just comes out as a single piece. Is there a way to leave the CV cup on the diff side? I don't want to loose fluid or risk damaging the bearing.

Thank you

 

[lidstrom]

Sorry for bumping this old thread, but I plan on changing my boots since it seems apparent that the OEM axles are much better than any aftermarket axle.



With that said, I've never re-booted a car, but am comfortable with doing things like this. I have two questions..



1. As far as tools go, you mentioned: "You need a 19mm socket to take off the bottom A-Arm and a 35mm to get the CV shaft hub nut off, a CV boot clamp crimp tool ($8)/Safety wire pliers w/a screwdriver and beer assistant." Whats the difference between the Boot clamp crimp tool and safety wire pliers? Do I really need both?

2. Does the axle on the diff side stay on the car, so that the dogbone and outer CV can just come out like pictured? I watched some youtube videos and it seems like it just comes out as a single piece. Is there a way to leave the CV cup on the diff side? I don't want to loose fluid or risk damaging the bearing.



Thank you

1. I don't know why he said you need the safety wire pliers, they aren't needed. The boot clamp crimp tool is needed, as it is used to tighten the 4 clamps on each cv axle.

2. Yes, you can leave the end of the cv axle in the differential. The rest of the cv axle will slide out as soon as you cut off the boot. It may make cleanup a bit more difficult, but you don't have to worry about damaging anything.


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[theoutbackdream]

1. I don't know why he said you need the safety wire pliers, they aren't needed. The boot clamp crimp tool is needed, as it is used to tighten the 4 clamps on each cv axle.

2. Yes, you can leave the end of the cv axle in the differential. The rest of the cv axle will slide out as soon as you cut off the boot. It may make cleanup a bit more difficult, but you don't have to worry about damaging anything.


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Good to know! Didn't know that the CV could just slide out that easily. thanks! BTW have any opinions on the beck/arnley CV boot? I was thinking of picking those up.

 

[ArizonaNativ]

Thanks for the write up, going to be doing this next week.

 

[Drunner97]

Random question of the day, but I got two packets of grease with my reboot kit. One for each side? Black on outer and the other for the inner?

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[bob3dsf]

Random question of the day, but I got two packets of grease with my reboot kit. One for each side? Black on outer and the other for the inner?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Bump to say: Yes, one bottle is for the inner boot, one is for the outer boot but I can't remember which is which. You should be able to look at the parts diagram and match up the part numbers on those bottle labels to tell which goes where. However, You've probably already figured it out by now... but for anyone else with a similar question.

 

[Drunner97]

Bump to say: Yes, one bottle is for the inner boot, one is for the outer boot but I can't remember which is which. You should be able to look at the parts diagram and match up the part numbers on those bottle labels to tell which goes where. However, You've probably already figured it out by now... but for anyone else with a similar question.

Black on the outer, brown on the inner.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[General Kornilov]

Great thread - even though its years old. I recently replaced both my OEM axles with Carquest house brands axles. I retained my OEMs, got a boot kit, and will be re-booting them when time permits and will just store them away for future use as there was nothing wrong with the axles themselves.

 

[VertigoPerformance]

I Made the mistake of cleaning my axles completely using solvent.
I’m just hoping I haven’t shortened the life of the shafts.

The inner boot kit came with rings for the shaft at the diff and shaft at the wheel. Easy enough.

With the outer boot kits I got 1 snap ring, round as opposed to flat.
I don’t know what the round ring is for, possibly to stop the small end of one boot from moving?

 

[Morphyne]

You will be fine on the solvent. As far as those rings are concerned I hope they are not needed bc I couldn't figure out what they were for and didnt use. I completely disassembled, cleaned, and regreased my CVs and didnt seewhere they were needed.

 

[00GTvert]

So I was under my 2005 the other day resolving a clunk from the sway bar and noticed the inner boot on the passenger side was torn. I could put my finger in the opening and feel the grease. I'm not sure how long it's been like this or if any damage has been done.

The truck steers fine and isn't as noisy now that I tightened the sway bar bracket. I don't feel comfortable tackling this job myself so I'd farm it out. Am I risking a damaged inner axle by letting this go for a few months? Should I have them replace the entire axle while they're in there because the labor is the same either way?

thx

 

[00GTvert]

Just got off the phone with my local Firestone who quoted me 3.5hrs and $531 out the door for just the boot. Add another $100 for the alignment.

 

[xtremewlr]

Just got off the phone with my local Firestone who quoted me 3.5hrs and $531 out the door for just the boot. Add another $100 for the alignment.

Replacing a CV boot doesn't require an alignment. Unless you need one besides the boot.

 

[montijo505]

Just got off the phone with my local Firestone who quoted me 3.5hrs and $531 out the door for just the boot. Add another $100 for the alignment.

Highway robbery.


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[mc4parker]

The original post here that details the steps for replacing the CV boot is excellent. Thanks to the OP for the effort!

I'm need to replace both inner boots, the outer boots are ok (for now). I was considering doing both inner and outer while having the shaft pulled out, but I'm now wondering if the inner can be replaced without removing the entire shaft from the 4Runner. I'm wondering if I can simply pull the hub assembly far enough outward to allow the inner CV joint to separate while the other end is still secured to the hub. If so, there might be enough space to allow removal of the tri-lobe bearing, cleaning of the joints, slip on new boot, and reassemble.

Has anyone tried this approach?

 

[phatcheeks]

The original post here that details the steps for replacing the CV boot is excellent. Thanks to the OP for the effort!

I'm need to replace both inner boots, the outer boots are ok (for now). I was considering doing both inner and outer while having the shaft pulled out, but I'm now wondering if the inner can be replaced without removing the entire shaft from the 4Runner. I'm wondering if I can simply pull the hub assembly far enough outward to allow the inner CV joint to separate while the other end is still secured to the hub. If so, there might be enough space to allow removal of the tri-lobe bearing, cleaning of the joints, slip on new boot, and reassemble.

Has anyone tried this approach?

It will be WAY easier to remove the the whole axle to do the inner boot.