How to: Wiring Aux Reverse Lights
- Thread starter TKinstler
- Start date
gshadow325
New member
That's a great use of the relay! I didn't even see that way only because my thinking is to upgrade the power supply to run the additional lighting. Not to put too over load the oem wiring. That's why I did it the other way.
Maybe do a second relay to bump up the power for the additional lighting.
Maybe do a second relay to bump up the power for the additional lighting.
noshortcuts
New member
I'm planning to do this soon.
How's the reverse light install going? Did you end up using the last drawing?
How's the reverse light install going? Did you end up using the last drawing?
gshadow325
New member
cant answer for the OP but i did write this up today for future reference since i just did this last week to my own vehicle. instead of offering concept and how it should be implemented. i did it and wrote about it here
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/156967-how-wire-auxiliary-reverse-lights.html#post1557844
noshortcuts
New member
Thank you!, that's very helpful.
Here is how I ended up with my lights. Needless to say I am very happy with everything. Should of posted sooner, but been real busy.
Huge thank you to [MENTION=44862]macoyle[/MENTION] of Bean LED Industries. He hooked me up with the two 6" LED flood lights for this project. One light would of been plenty, but I like the balance of two. Very happy with the lights. Mention your a member and he will hook you up! Excellent help and honesty.
Also a huge thank you to [MENTION=93434]gshadow325[/MENTION] , [MENTION=3958]jwyshrek[/MENTION] , [MENTION=95673]SAR_Runner[/MENTION] . Without their help I still would be lost wiring these up. Check out [MENTION=93434]gshadow325[/MENTION] new "how to" on how he did his.
For starters I relocated my center diff lock switch to the center console. The only reason I did this is because my plan is to someday have all new Daystar switches on the dash lined up. As mentioned I mounted a Daystar switch thats illuminated when on in Acc.. Wired everything up according to this sketch. Mounted the 6" floods. I mounted them more visible rather than under the 4r like most members I've seen have done as I wanted the most light available for misc. working or trailer hookup. Here's the finals...
Huge thank you to [MENTION=44862]macoyle[/MENTION] of Bean LED Industries. He hooked me up with the two 6" LED flood lights for this project. One light would of been plenty, but I like the balance of two. Very happy with the lights. Mention your a member and he will hook you up! Excellent help and honesty.
Also a huge thank you to [MENTION=93434]gshadow325[/MENTION] , [MENTION=3958]jwyshrek[/MENTION] , [MENTION=95673]SAR_Runner[/MENTION] . Without their help I still would be lost wiring these up. Check out [MENTION=93434]gshadow325[/MENTION] new "how to" on how he did his.
For starters I relocated my center diff lock switch to the center console. The only reason I did this is because my plan is to someday have all new Daystar switches on the dash lined up. As mentioned I mounted a Daystar switch thats illuminated when on in Acc.. Wired everything up according to this sketch. Mounted the 6" floods. I mounted them more visible rather than under the 4r like most members I've seen have done as I wanted the most light available for misc. working or trailer hookup. Here's the finals...
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noshortcuts
New member
Thanks! The plastic trim along the outside of the drivers floor just pops off. Under it is a bundle of wires that I just ran along side of it zip tying it to the bundle. Then once you get to the back cargo area I tucked it under the side plastic panels. I diddnt want to take the entire panel off and its not necessary as you cant see the wire. You do have to lift up the carpet along this side to tuck it in there some though. Then in the far back, drivers side, rear cargo corner there is a rubber boot on the floor that I ran the wires through to the underside of the 4r. It definitely was the easiest part of the job.
gshadow325
New member
easy peasy.
open wallet and pay your local stereo shop to do it LoL....thats one way hahahaha
other way,
-fold down driver rear seat
- pull up the door runner moulding
-pull off the drover rear door weather strip
-at about waist level, maybe a little higher if your truck is lifted. you will see the panel to the left rear separate
-standing in the driver rear door, looking to the rear. pull the lower part of that panel off a little
-open hatch
-look to the left, behind driver's side tail light.pry off the access panel to change the bulb.
-there is also another door for where the jack resides.
-pull off both doors.
-you can feel your way up to the front from the rear as you stick your hand inside the jack area.
- with you hand inside. you can pull the panel off a little towards you.
- with that little gap, thats how you can route the wire to the front.
-wire will come out of the weather strip area
-route wire down under the door molding
- proceed to the front.
i find it easier to work from back to the front.
sounds complicated but actually real easy once you do it before. key is, if you treat it like its your oen car and you are afraid to break something...that means you are not pulling hard enough LoL
noshortcuts
New member
Though it's smarter and saner to open the wallet, I can't seem to help from finding one DIY project after another -- so thank you for the details, and thanks to the OP as well !!
Mantree
New member
One big advantage of using relays is that you can use light guadge wires making a smaller bundle in to the cab as for running curent threw the switch my motorcycle has everything but he ignition switch is straight threw the switch I have 2 relays to isolate the alternator and ignition but that is because the draw on the bike is at 20 amp and the switch is rated to 15 amp so I run a 30 amp relay
