I found "The One", 2001 Sport Ed. TRD SC'd
- Thread starter BigFishAllDay
- Start date
fightman80
New member
Very cool man! Nice work dude.... can't wait to see your next update!
A.Wilson013
New member
About as BA as putting a Turbo decal from a 911 on a Ford Focus.
Nice progress, BFAD. Are you going to make the switch lighted?
4-Ripcord
New member
These two are going to make an odd, but highly effective and versatile, couple. :thumb3:
This picture excites me greatly!!
Thanks again for that CV axle, I hope you found something nice at the new store with that coupon.
And I agree on the diff armor, best time to put it on is with the axle already off. Otherwise it will be the only unarmored part of you truck, lol.
LittleCaesar
New member
I can't wait for the full write-up.
I did know that the drums had that paper gasket but I had never seen a new one. I failed to replace mine during my real axle leak in 09.
Hopefully that switch connector worked for ya.
I did know that the drums had that paper gasket but I had never seen a new one. I failed to replace mine during my real axle leak in 09.
Hopefully that switch connector worked for ya.
BigFishAllDay
New member
Good idea for sure, but I'm not sure if that really suits my needs.
Coming right at ya! I got the wiring all buttoned up today.
The '01-02 dash does not have the "RR Diff Lock" Lamp, and the '96-02's do not have a light in the "RR Diff Lock" Switch, so I'm going to go right down middle and use the light in the switch as my indicator. Video to follow shortly.
I missed the sale man. Stayed working on the truck too late and was dead tired afterward, so I didn't feel like driving all the way to the west side. You're welcome for the CV, though, I'm glad to help you out when I can Rip. RE the diff armor, as mentioned above, I don't think I need it. Real skids and LCA/mount armor first.
DUUUUUUUUUUDE!
The paper gasket in the pics goes between the 3rd member and the axle housing, but I know what you're talking about on the drums. I didn't replace the paper gaskets on the drums during my rear axle seal job either... no issues so far.
The switch worked out GREAT. Thanks X 3!
BigFishAllDay
New member
As I mentioned above, I got the wiring finished up today.
First, I had to source some 12V power (+). I started at the fuse box and decided to see if any of the empty slots in the fuse box were actually live.
The one circled in BLUE turned up 12V power, but was a constant ON (not ignition switched). The one circled in GREEN had 12V power in both the ACC and IGN ON positions, but not with the key off, so I went ahead and used it.
Add A Circuit... I love these things. (The other one is for the guages)
I decided to use a common ground for the entire E-Locker system/harness and chose this location behind the driver side kick panel.
2 hours later, I finally got the whole mess wired up...
Time to test it all out. Video below:
(NOTE: the clanking noise when I'm rotating the driveshaft input and the diff is in OPEN configuration is the wheel studs clanking back and forth in the openings of the brake drum on the stationary side of the axle)
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ryM3J8Vk3U4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Or watch on YouTube: Testing the wiring harness I built for my E-Locker Retrofit - YouTube
Once I was confident that everything was in order, I set about mounting the ECU. The spot where it is normally mounted on the '96-00 models will not work on '01-02's because the threaded hole where the bolt would go is not present.
I decided to use a location just to the right of the VSC/TRAC ECU.
First I had to drill out the hole on the E-Locker ECU bracket to accept a larger bolt. (The VSC/TRAC ECU is mounted with 12mm bolts, the E-Locker ECU is normally mounted with a 10mm bolt). I also had to cut off a small lip on the edge of the bracket, visible on the RH side.
Next up I had to make a small spacer out of some scrap wood so that the E-Locker ECU would sit far enough off the firewall to not vibrate against it. The spacer necessitated a longer bolt.... luckily I had one laying around.
E-Locker ECU mounted...
Close up of the spacer installed...
And there it is, with the harness taped up/organized & plugged in... You can see the ground location in the upper LH corner of the picture. The yellow coil of wire was left accessible so that I can wire in a locker safety switch that will interrupt the connection between the Speed Sensor input on the E-locker ECU and ground. The switch will disable the engagement of the locker if I ever need to do so (valets, woman drivers, etc.)
With all the interior peices re-installed it looks clean...
Wiring... Done and done! Next week I'll pull the 3rd out of the Tacoma axle and put it into the 4Runner axle, install it under the truck, and I'm E-Locked. :fro:
First, I had to source some 12V power (+). I started at the fuse box and decided to see if any of the empty slots in the fuse box were actually live.
The one circled in BLUE turned up 12V power, but was a constant ON (not ignition switched). The one circled in GREEN had 12V power in both the ACC and IGN ON positions, but not with the key off, so I went ahead and used it.
Add A Circuit... I love these things. (The other one is for the guages)
I decided to use a common ground for the entire E-Locker system/harness and chose this location behind the driver side kick panel.
2 hours later, I finally got the whole mess wired up...
Time to test it all out. Video below:
(NOTE: the clanking noise when I'm rotating the driveshaft input and the diff is in OPEN configuration is the wheel studs clanking back and forth in the openings of the brake drum on the stationary side of the axle)
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ryM3J8Vk3U4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Or watch on YouTube: Testing the wiring harness I built for my E-Locker Retrofit - YouTube
Once I was confident that everything was in order, I set about mounting the ECU. The spot where it is normally mounted on the '96-00 models will not work on '01-02's because the threaded hole where the bolt would go is not present.
I decided to use a location just to the right of the VSC/TRAC ECU.
First I had to drill out the hole on the E-Locker ECU bracket to accept a larger bolt. (The VSC/TRAC ECU is mounted with 12mm bolts, the E-Locker ECU is normally mounted with a 10mm bolt). I also had to cut off a small lip on the edge of the bracket, visible on the RH side.
Next up I had to make a small spacer out of some scrap wood so that the E-Locker ECU would sit far enough off the firewall to not vibrate against it. The spacer necessitated a longer bolt.... luckily I had one laying around.
E-Locker ECU mounted...
Close up of the spacer installed...
And there it is, with the harness taped up/organized & plugged in... You can see the ground location in the upper LH corner of the picture. The yellow coil of wire was left accessible so that I can wire in a locker safety switch that will interrupt the connection between the Speed Sensor input on the E-locker ECU and ground. The switch will disable the engagement of the locker if I ever need to do so (valets, woman drivers, etc.)
With all the interior peices re-installed it looks clean...
Wiring... Done and done! Next week I'll pull the 3rd out of the Tacoma axle and put it into the 4Runner axle, install it under the truck, and I'm E-Locked. :fro:
Last edited:
josh.bunch
New member
Excellent work bud. It's really fun to see what some hard work and research can accomplish. As always, great job of documenting things too.:trophy:
I'm more of a before and after picture kind of guy, bc it gets to be a pain washing my hands every time I want to take a picture. Glad you all aren't like me or you would learn too much.
I'm more of a before and after picture kind of guy, bc it gets to be a pain washing my hands every time I want to take a picture. Glad you all aren't like me or you would learn too much.
LittleCaesar
New member
BFAD,
Where did you get those tap Add-A-Circuit pieces? Local or internet? I can't tell ya how many times I have just stripped wires, tapping one to the ground and the other (hot) to the fuse (for adding old Sirius/XM Starmate receivers for friends).
I am glad my switch worked out for ya. The post office in Charleston can be a crap shoot at times.
Where did you get those tap Add-A-Circuit pieces? Local or internet? I can't tell ya how many times I have just stripped wires, tapping one to the ground and the other (hot) to the fuse (for adding old Sirius/XM Starmate receivers for friends).
I am glad my switch worked out for ya. The post office in Charleston can be a crap shoot at times.
BigFishAllDay
New member
Thanks man. I don't even wash my hands for pics though, I just keep the camera handy and snap pictures as I go. I use an Olympus Stylus Tough (waterproof, drop proof, freeze proof, etc.) so the camera is pretty hardy and can put up w/the work environment.
LINK > Blade Fuse Taps, ATM, ATC
I bought them @ AutoZone, but I had to special order them because they only stock the BP/HHA version (full size/ATC fuses). 4Runners use the BP/HHH version (mini/ATM fuses).
They definitely clean up an install, and it's easy to add the circuit because you don't have to go all the way back to the battery, or have a bunch of wires hanging off your positive terminal. The only caveat is that they can only be used for low amperage circuits (<10A). The E-Locker motor only pulls 5A max, so they works great for this application.
You went above and beyond by sending the switch too LC. The only issue I ran into it was that the bulb was burnt out. I just swappped it with another one I had on hand and everything was A-OK.
tbst
New member
As usual, excellent work. Like I said, people don't realize how long it adds to take pictures... I appreciate it.
Off topic: How do you like the IPFs a year out? With going camping more and more, I feel like the stock lights are lackluster at best, and was gonna buy the IPFs. You happy with them? Do they "light up the night" as much as you'd like?
Off topic: How do you like the IPFs a year out? With going camping more and more, I feel like the stock lights are lackluster at best, and was gonna buy the IPFs. You happy with them? Do they "light up the night" as much as you'd like?
BigFishAllDay
New member
Thank you sir! I'm happy to finally have it. I'm sure it's ultimately going to get me into situations that will expose other areas that need improvement. Dented wallet to follow.
Thanks amigo! One of these days we're going to have to get that 4Runner of yours dirty!
Thanks for following the thread llennium, and for the compliment.
Thanks man. I'm a picture adding SOB... you can count on it to continue for as long as I'm around.
RE the IPF's, I'm running 100W bulbs in both of them, and they are VERY bright. I have no problem seeing things when they are on. They light up everything... sides, distance, and foreground. (I'll try and get some pictures)
A long time ago, I bought a 3rd one from J-Money, cheap. I've had it sitting on my workbench as a spare because it didn't have a matching cover on it. I was recently able to find a matching cover, so I'm going to install it between the other two and run 3 of them.
I'm very happy with them. 2 are good enough, but I think 3 will be more light than I'll ever need. If that turns to be untrue, I imagine I'll convert them to HID's.
BTW... True story: When people cut you off, these things are alot of fun. When I light those a-holes up, they know it. Same thing goes for people who like to drive w/their brights on.
rickashay
New member
As said above, it's awesome that you post so many pics, you'll never hear a complaint from me as I have used your photos and write-ups on several occasions and really appreciate the work and attention to detail you put into your posts.
LOL -When someone drives at me with their brights, I'm pretty sure retina burning occurs! haha Excessive lighting FTW!
BTW... True story: When people cut you off, these things are alot of fun. When I light those a-holes up, they know it. Same thing goes for people who like to drive w/their brights on.
LOL -When someone drives at me with their brights, I'm pretty sure retina burning occurs! haha Excessive lighting FTW!
BigFishAllDay
New member
I'm glad that you guys are getting something out of my threads... It's nice to be able to contribue to the knowledge base.
May the retinas of inattentive drivers beware! :wow:
So I had high hopes of getting the E-Locker axle under the truck this week, but as I got to thinking about it, I started considering what the CBI is going to do to my rear lift height.
I've come to the conclusion that it's better for me to wait until the CBI is installed before I put the axle under the truck. That way I can determine how much it sags my LC coils. I picked up a set of 1.5" rear spacers from trailhead98. I'm going to measure the sag from the CBI, then cut the spacers down to the exact same height, then put them in on top of the LC coils to maintain my current height.
I had my uncle (who weighs 190lbs) stand on my two hitch and it sagged the rear end about an inch. The CBI should only add 70-80lbs, so I'm thinking I won't need much on the spacer.
In the meantime, I got everything else ready to go. First I pulled the 3rd member out of the Tacoma axle...
Taco axles out
About to pull the 3rd
Ta Da!
I spent some time inspecting the 3rd and it's in great shape... here's some pics of the more crucial parts...
Second to the wiring, the hardest part of this job has been getting the old gasket off the sealing surfaces of the diff and housing.... Eeeesh... what a pain in the arse. A sharp chisel, some 3M abrasive pads, and some WD40 got it done.
Finally got it all cleaned up. The 3rd is now ready for install.
I took a little video of the 3rd as I inspected it. The video is below if you're interested. It's definitely worth watching if you've never seen the insides of an E-Locker, or any differential for that matter.
In the video I'm checking for chipped teeth & wear on the ring & pinion, play in the pinion bearing, general health of the diff, and checking that there is some pre-load on the pinion & carrier bearings.
It all felt/looked pretty much like it should according to the hours of reading I did on Zuk's Gear Installs page the other night.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/-WTsPgI1v_0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Last but not least, I put a few coats of Rubberized Undercoating on the housing, installed the long E-Locker studs, and the rear diff breather fitting. The rear housing is now ready for install.
All that's left is to put the 3rd into the housing, put some new axle seals in it, and swap it with the existing axle housing....
COME ON C.B.I.!!!!
May the retinas of inattentive drivers beware! :wow:
So I had high hopes of getting the E-Locker axle under the truck this week, but as I got to thinking about it, I started considering what the CBI is going to do to my rear lift height.
I've come to the conclusion that it's better for me to wait until the CBI is installed before I put the axle under the truck. That way I can determine how much it sags my LC coils. I picked up a set of 1.5" rear spacers from trailhead98. I'm going to measure the sag from the CBI, then cut the spacers down to the exact same height, then put them in on top of the LC coils to maintain my current height.
I had my uncle (who weighs 190lbs) stand on my two hitch and it sagged the rear end about an inch. The CBI should only add 70-80lbs, so I'm thinking I won't need much on the spacer.
In the meantime, I got everything else ready to go. First I pulled the 3rd member out of the Tacoma axle...
Taco axles out
About to pull the 3rd
Ta Da!
I spent some time inspecting the 3rd and it's in great shape... here's some pics of the more crucial parts...
Second to the wiring, the hardest part of this job has been getting the old gasket off the sealing surfaces of the diff and housing.... Eeeesh... what a pain in the arse. A sharp chisel, some 3M abrasive pads, and some WD40 got it done.
Finally got it all cleaned up. The 3rd is now ready for install.
I took a little video of the 3rd as I inspected it. The video is below if you're interested. It's definitely worth watching if you've never seen the insides of an E-Locker, or any differential for that matter.
In the video I'm checking for chipped teeth & wear on the ring & pinion, play in the pinion bearing, general health of the diff, and checking that there is some pre-load on the pinion & carrier bearings.
It all felt/looked pretty much like it should according to the hours of reading I did on Zuk's Gear Installs page the other night.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/-WTsPgI1v_0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Last but not least, I put a few coats of Rubberized Undercoating on the housing, installed the long E-Locker studs, and the rear diff breather fitting. The rear housing is now ready for install.
All that's left is to put the 3rd into the housing, put some new axle seals in it, and swap it with the existing axle housing....
COME ON C.B.I.!!!!
absalom
New member
Dude!! I'm so excited for you! You're almost done. Oh man, that wiring looks like a pain, especially up by the driver's kick panel, space is super tight in there. You like your IPF's, eh? Which model/size are they if you don't mind me asking?
Good luck on the rest of the install btw. Love all the videos too, be sure to take another when it's all finished
Good luck on the rest of the install btw. Love all the videos too, be sure to take another when it's all finished
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