I found "The One", 2001 Sport Ed. TRD SC'd

I think you made a good choice. I don't think you would have liked the MTR's on road and they kind of suck in snow.



I love my MTR’s as far a traction goes. I’ve heard the MTR’s aren’t great on icy roads but I’ve heard they work fine in deep snow. I’ve only ran them in some snow that was only 6” deep at the deepest spots and they did just fine even in 2wd. Once I got to some icy hard packed stuff they were pretty shitty. But all MT’s are like that on ice. The road noise isn’t great, wear is OK, and balancing was OK but not bad. The traction is awesome though! I will definitely consider getting them again when it comes time.
 
So, whatever tire you end up going with, what size will you go with? Would you drop back down to the 285/75/16, or stick with the 295/75/16? And I think that you are right. If you are thinking about swapping tires, now is the time. You still have plenty of life left on a popular tire and wheel. You are in a position to recoup some of the cost from swapping tires and wheels. I am kinda hoping to see these on the FN Countersteers, but I dig the FN Five Stars as well, so there is really no bad choice from FN. Lookinf forward to see what you picked.
 
Nick, I commend you on your unwavering attention to detail especially on the maintenance side. You have been busy lately for sure, the trips looked like a great time!

Good choice on the FN wheels, I am excited to see which ones you got. I actually met up with Dustin yesterday. Now let's see where you mounted those new fogs! Can't just say you did it and not show us!

Seeing your comment about 2011 T4ROTM brought me way back! I still remember when you first told me you guys were expecting your first child and I didn't know how to react because I was in-between that age where that changes from being bad news to being good news lol. And look at you now, big growing family!
 
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I thought about cryo treatment, but there isn't a good local option that I know of, and I feel pretty good about a new OEM stub. I definitely agree on keeping the CVs as the weak link. I have looked at Lotus axles many times, but would much rather replace CVs than pull the front diff. I will say though, that with three diff R&Rs under my belt, it's getting pretty routine.

I am actually planning to get a few people together to get some ADD stub shafts Cryo'd in the next month or so if you want to send your spare one this way in case your new one ever gives out. I got a quote for $50 or less per piece depending on how many people are willing to put a part in the batch.
 
Glad she's back up and running, better than ever. I've had those lift supports on my hatch for awhile. They work good in the summer even with the ladder, in the winter they don't hold it up very well though. I think they have a lifetime warranty so I might swap them if I can find the receipt. I need to replace one of the pins on my bumper as well, it's got some play in it and I think it's causing a rattle from my bumper. Those bags look really good for $10!

Me too. That was a long stay in the garage. I got the hatch supports lightly used for $20, so I figured I'd give them a try. Strong Arm makes a stronger than stock version that I will try next if the need arises.

I think you purposefully peeled the plastidip off the 4R to be like me :thumb3:

Is yours done the same way? I peeled the "4R" a long time ago just to see how it would look. Afterward, no joke, I would look at it and it would remind me of you because it said "unner" in black. I think you're cool and all, but your forum name can't be on my rig.

I did the same thing with wiring some of my Rigid lights into my stock fog light wiring. The only negative is the headlights have to be on to be able to use them, unless you want to bypass that feature. Being able to flip them off and on with the stock switch is very convenient though.

Bypass is soon to be in progess.

Definitely not a dumb thing. I've considered getting a set of SCS or FN wheels myself, I'm just really picky about wheels and there's very few that I like enough to spend that kind of money on. It would be nice to save a few pounds over my OEM Trail wheels though.

My ProComp 8069s are surprisingly light at 19lbs. The new wheels are ~18.5, so there isn't much of an improvement there. I really just wanted a new look. The wheels I got are on the "secret menu" from FN, so very few are running them. I have seen only two other 4Runners anywhere on the web with these wheels and both are T4R users who don't post much.

Yup, I've got the ST Maxx. Those are STT Pros in the picture, which I've also heard really good things about.

I love the look of the MTRs, but the road manners would be a no go for me. The ST Maxx are a really good tire, I'm extremely happy with mine. They're still quiet for such an aggressive tire, and they grip like there's no tomorrow. I've got 25k on mine and at this rate they'll make it to 75k easily with my 5 tire rotation. I think Cooper is really putting a lot of effort into new tire technologies, while companies like BFG and Goodyear are riding on their reputation in some aspects.

The ST Maxx are also much cheaper than the Pros. I'm still on the fence about tires, but have to decide by tonight... the DTD sale ends tomorrow AM. Personally, I couldn't stick with the same tire for 75K miles. I have only put 40K on this 4Runner in 8 years, so that would be a decade with the same tires, easy. I'll agree with you on BFG/GY riding their reps.

See blue.

BigFishAllDay thanks for bringing up the discount tire sale. I need to get a new set of tires as well. I chunked out the sidewall of one mine pretty bad in Moab this week and the others are starting to get pretty worn.

If you're looking for a tire with better snow performance than the KO2 take a look at the falken wildpeak at3. Ive had mine for a little over a year and have been really impressed with their performance in pretty much any terrain. Theyre quite a bit cheaper than the STT Pros too

You're welcome. I was reading in your thread that you grabbed a new set, so I'm glad you saved some cash. Falkens aren't on my menu, unfortunately. They don't make me excited in any way, shape, or form.

I love my MTR’s as far a traction goes. I’ve heard the MTR’s aren’t great on icy roads but I’ve heard they work fine in deep snow. I’ve only ran them in some snow that was only 6” deep at the deepest spots and they did just fine even in 2wd. Once I got to some icy hard packed stuff they were pretty shitty. But all MT’s are like that on ice. The road noise isn’t great, wear is OK, and balancing was OK but not bad. The traction is awesome though! I will definitely consider getting them again when it comes time.

Thanks for the feedback on the MTRs. I don't do as much winter driving these days as the number of ski trips we take is inverse to the number of kids we have. It's still nice to have that ability in the back pocket though, because we do get snow around here sometimes.

So, whatever tire you end up going with, what size will you go with? Would you drop back down to the 285/75/16, or stick with the 295/75/16? And I think that you are right. If you are thinking about swapping tires, now is the time. You still have plenty of life left on a popular tire and wheel. You are in a position to recoup some of the cost from swapping tires and wheels. I am kinda hoping to see these on the FN Countersteers, but I dig the FN Five Stars as well, so there is really no bad choice from FN. Lookinf forward to see what you picked.

My next set of tires will be 285s again. The 295 is an uncommon size and I didn't find the pros to outweigh the cons versus 285s. No Five Stars on this build... The wheels are in the garage, so maybe this week I'll have pics.

Nick, I commend you on your unwavering attention to detail especially on the maintenance side. You have been busy lately for sure, the trips looked like a great time!

Good choice on the FN wheels, I am excited to see which ones you got. I actually met up with Dustin yesterday. Now let's see where you mounted those new fogs! Can't just say you did it and not show us!

Seeing your comment about 2011 T4ROTM brought me way back! I still remember when you first told me you guys were expecting your first child and I didn't know how to react because I was in-between that age where that changes from being bad news to being good news lol. And look at you now, big growing family!

Thanks for checking in, Jim. I like to know that my rig isn't going to let me down and it all starts with maintenance, right?

As I've said before... SCS has such a bandwagon going, I just can't jump on at his point. I wish I had gone with something from FN up front, but I wasn't even aware of them back then. Pics of the fogs are coming up next.

I miss T4ROTM, it was fun. It's hard to believe so much time has passed since those early days of our builds/friendship. I look at my girls now and I can barely imagine life without them, but I know what you mean about the good/news bad news transition.

I am actually planning to get a few people together to get some ADD stub shafts Cryo'd in the next month or so if you want to send your spare one this way in case your new one ever gives out. I got a quote for $50 or less per piece depending on how many people are willing to put a part in the batch.

Thanks for the offer man, I'll give it some thought. With shipping and such, that's about the cost of a new OEM spare. I worry about investing money in a high mileage spare because the little needle bearing inside has seen a lot of miles.

The best option would be to cryo a new OEM stub, but I'd rather have that in my diff than my spare pile.
 
Awhile back, I retrofit some 55W HIDs into my IPF 968 driving lights. I used a cheap kit I got for $40 on Ebay just to see if I'd like it, and had problems with one of the ballasts firing reliably right out of the box. Dealing with the seller on a replacement was a joke, so I gave up. I ran them for a year and the ballast failed completely, but the HID output had me hooked.

So, I upgraded to a set of DDM Tuning's mid-range "Plus" 55W HID kits. They have an upgraded ballast and DDM's best bulbs. Hopefully they are more durable than the Ebay junk. I chose a 4500K bulb this time around.

wBZTlPZl.jpg


The bulbs from DDM have a deeper base, which required modifying the housings on the IPFs. The old Ebay bulbs had a short base and popped right in without modification. I simply cut out a 1.25" hole and capped it with an 1.5" ABS plumbing cap fixed in place with JB Kwik Weld.

JVhCCpjl.jpg


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The bulbs from DDM tuning have the electrode to the side of the glass, which required cutting a notch in the reflector as well. The electrodes on the Ebay bulbs were diagonal to the glass and dropped right in.

DIyqY2Il.jpg


As I hinted at earlier, I also added some fog lights using the factory wiring and will be setting them up for "anytime on" operation with some wiring mods.

I made some brackets that bolt to the OE bumper supports on the side of the frame and tuck the new pods right up against the crossmember for the AOR front bumper. They are low and protected, without obstructing the light output.

I hung them from a 2.75" bolt with a 1" steel spacer on it to locate them in the mounting position. This keeps them aimed directly ahead while allowing for adjustment of the beam up/down. The fogs will be getting amber Lamin-X covers in the future.

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I have more than enough forward facing light at this point, and I'm satisfied. All the light in this pic is coming from the rig (no garage lights on). I'll get some better output shots sometime in the future.

T6M3xCUl.jpg
 
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Is yours done the same way? I peeled the "4R" a long time ago just to see how it would look. Afterward, no joke, I would look at it and it would remind me of you because it said "unner" in black. I think you're cool and all, but your forum name can't be on my rig.

I don't have the 4Runner badge on the back anymore, but my license plate reads "Unner". I had a friend several years ago walk up to the 4Runner, cover the 4R on the badge with his hand and say "Unner, go!" Not really sure why, but ever since then it stuck...

The lights look good!
 
As I hinted at earlier, I also added some fog lights using the factory wiring and will be setting them up for "anytime on" operation with some wiring mods.

Curious what approach you're planning for the fog bypass. Do you plan to still use the stalk switch, rewired to allow anytime on? Or a separate switch altogether?

I'm asking because I'm contemplating a couple of fog light wiring options - one is to replace my '97 stalk with a '99 (with the fog switch), and wire it to allow anytime on; the other is install a separate switch in the dash knockout. So just curious what others do. Thanks!
 
I don't have the 4Runner badge on the back anymore, but my license plate reads "Unner". I had a friend several years ago walk up to the 4Runner, cover the 4R on the badge with his hand and say "Unner, go!" Not really sure why, but ever since then it stuck...

The lights look good!

Thanks, man. They came out just how I hoped, stealthy but functional.

Curious what approach you're planning for the fog bypass. Do you plan to still use the stalk switch, rewired to allow anytime on? Or a separate switch altogether?

I'm asking because I'm contemplating a couple of fog light wiring options - one is to replace my '97 stalk with a '99 (with the fog switch), and wire it to allow anytime on; the other is install a separate switch in the dash knockout. So just curious what others do. Thanks!

It involves a jumper in the engine fuse box that feeds the fog light relay 12V power anytime the marker lights are on, rather than only when the low beams are on. There is also a wire that has to be grounded at the DRL module, IIRC. Pretty easy stuff, but I'll post details when it is done.

On my wife's old 2000 I retrofit some OEM fogs and just wired them up standalone with a relay and dedicated switch. I liked that setup, but in this case I want to utilize the factory wiring and stalk switch.
 
It involves a jumper in the engine fuse box that feeds the fog light relay 12V power anytime the marker lights are on, rather than only when the low beams are on. There is also a wire that has to be grounded at the DRL module, IIRC. Pretty easy stuff, but I'll post details when it is done.

Thanks, I think I understand. So you will be able to use the stalk switch to turn the fogs on and off, regardless of the low beam status, right?

I'm leaning in the same direction, the only downside is that I'll have to remember to turn off the foglights in addition to turning off the headlights, one more thing to remember :wow:.
 
Thanks, I think I understand. So you will be able to use the stalk switch to turn the fogs on and off, regardless of the low beam status, right?

I'm leaning in the same direction, the only downside is that I'll have to remember to turn off the foglights in addition to turning off the headlights, one more thing to remember :wow:.

Yes, the fogs will operate anytime the marker lights are on, so the stalk headlight switch must be moved to the first position where the marker lights are on front/rear, but not the low beams, to turn the fogs on. When the headlight switch goes full off it still deactivates the fogs, so no extra switching is involved on the off side of things.

Check out this link, it explains it with more detail > Toyota 4Runner Highlander Electrical Modifications Fog Light Mod
 
Yes, the fogs will operate anytime the marker lights are on, so the stalk headlight switch must be moved to the first position where the marker lights are on front/rear, but not the low beams, to turn the fogs on. When the headlight switch goes full off it still deactivates the fogs, so no extra switching is involved on the off side of things.

Check out this link, it explains it with more detail > Toyota 4Runner Highlander Electrical Modifications Fog Light Mod

Ah, that's better, I didn't like the idea of having to turn off two separate switches. I'll have to study the writeup you linked, thanks for that. Off the top of your head, would that work for my '97 (with a '99+ fog stalk added), or only for '99+ vehicles?

Edited to add - obviously my '97 doesn't have the factory fog lights, fog light wiring, or the fog light relay :). So I'll have to replicate the modded schematic to obtain the same functionality after swapping in the fog light stalk. I currently have my foglights wired directly with the low beams (no additional switch), but I really don't like them turning off when I switch to high beams. So I really like the mod to have them go on with the marker lights instead of low beams.
 
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Ah, that's better, I didn't like the idea of having to turn off two separate switches. I'll have to study the writeup you linked, thanks for that. Off the top of your head, would that work for my '97 (with a '99+ fog stalk added), or only for '99+ vehicles?

Edited to add - obviously my '97 doesn't have the factory fog lights, fog light wiring, or the fog light relay :). So I'll have to replicate the modded schematic to obtain the same functionality after swapping in the fog light stalk. I currently have my foglights wired directly with the low beams (no additional switch), but I really don't like them turning off when I switch to high beams. So I really like the mod to have them go on with the marker lights instead of low beams.

Be careful ordering headlight stalks that aren't for your specific year. I ordered a used one that wasn't the same year as my truck and it didn't fit. I don't remember why it didn't fit, but I know it didn't. I ended up just buying one from Rockauto specifically for a 2001 for about the same cost as the used ones I saw on here and on ebay.
 
Be careful ordering headlight stalks that aren't for your specific year. I ordered a used one that wasn't the same year as my truck and it didn't fit. I don't remember why it didn't fit, but I know it didn't. I ended up just buying one from Rockauto specifically for a 2001 for about the same cost as the used ones I saw on here and on ebay.

Thanks for the tip. My '97 didn't have a foglight stalk option, so I had to get one from another year. I managed to grab a '99 stalk at the junkyard for under $20, and am hoping it's a direct fit (I read somewhere here that it was). If not, I'll look for a plan B.
 
Yes, the fogs will operate anytime the marker lights are on, so the stalk headlight switch must be moved to the first position where the marker lights are on front/rear, but not the low beams, to turn the fogs on. When the headlight switch goes full off it still deactivates the fogs, so no extra switching is involved on the off side of things.

Check out this link, it explains it with more detail > Toyota 4Runner Highlander Electrical Modifications Fog Light Mod
I'll be doing this at some point too - though I'm hoping to be able to do it on the back side of the fuse box. If the lights have a good fog beam, it is nice to use them alone in very low visibility situations.

-Charlie
 
Where are you these days? I saw your location changed to NM, but where specifically? I was hoping to get in touch with you and try to make the spring Moab trip this year, but repairs have drawn out and the 4Runner is still sitting on stands.

I'm up in Farmington now. We should fish this summer if you get some time!

Glad you got the 4runner put back together and aligned easily. I had a garbage alignment from the dealership up here that was "in spec". Found another shop that did a much better job, but the driver's side tire still rubs the pinch weld area at full compression.

The lights up front look good too.
 
Ah, that's better, I didn't like the idea of having to turn off two separate switches. I'll have to study the writeup you linked, thanks for that. Off the top of your head, would that work for my '97 (with a '99+ fog stalk added), or only for '99+ vehicles?

Edited to add - obviously my '97 doesn't have the factory fog lights, fog light wiring, or the fog light relay :). So I'll have to replicate the modded schematic to obtain the same functionality after swapping in the fog light stalk. I currently have my foglights wired directly with the low beams (no additional switch), but I really don't like them turning off when I switch to high beams. So I really like the mod to have them go on with the marker lights instead of low beams.

The write-up I linked should work on all years of 3rd gens with OEM fog wiring. Once you start retrofitting things, it's time to break out the EWD.

If you're starting from scratch, I would just run standalone wiring and tie the relay into the marker lights so you have an auto-off function when you shut the headlight switch off.

I'll be doing this at some point too - though I'm hoping to be able to do it on the back side of the fuse box. If the lights have a good fog beam, it is nice to use them alone in very low visibility situations.

I knocked out the wiring last night... it was a piece of cake. They work just as they should, anytime the markers are on. I wouldn't waste the time pulling the fuse box, it's so easy to do it on the topside and quickly reversible if you ever desire.

I'm up in Farmington now. We should fish this summer if you get some time!

Glad you got the 4runner put back together and aligned easily. I had a garbage alignment from the dealership up here that was "in spec". Found another shop that did a much better job, but the driver's side tire still rubs the pinch weld area at full compression.

The lights up front look good too.

Ah, I see. It's pretty nice being 2.5 hours from Moab, isn't it? I'm game to get on the water with you for sure. Let me know if you get any fishing trips planned, even if it is last minute, and I'll do the same. I'm pretty flexible for the foreseeable future.
 
Anytime Fog Light Mod

I took an hour last night and knocked out the wiring mods to allow anytime use of the new fog lights. I followed the write-up on JA's 4Runner site here > Toyota 4Runner Highlander Electrical Modifications Fog Light Mod

It is a pretty simple mod, but I executed it in a slightly different way than the write-up shows. I had a spare fog relay on hand which I used, and rather than just sticking the feed wire in the 10A TAIL fuse slot, I used a Bussman Add-a-Circuit fuse tap with a separate 7.5A fuse to the relay coil.

The additional step needed for 4Runners with DRLs isn't explained well, but after studying the EWD, basically what you're doing is giving the fog light switch access to a new ground point that is NOT controlled by the DRL module. I used a bolt to the right hand side of the DS foot well near the accelerator pedal that I checked for continuity to other body grounds.

Fog relay with bent prong at terminal 1, connected to fuse tap lead. Fuse tap inserted in 10A TAIL slot, with 7.5A fuse for new circuit. Original 10A fuse retained for TAIL functions.

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Fog relay back in place...

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The fuse tap will interfere slightly with the lid closing, so I cut out the spare fuse holders that were causing the interference. Now it fits like stock. I carry spare fuses elsewhere in the vehicle anyway.

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The pics below show pin 16 on connector D8 at the DRL module under the dash, green wire w/black stripe. Cut this about an inch from the connector, tape off connector side, extend harness side with a length of wire sufficient to reach new ground point. The black wire w/yellow stripe taped off w/yellow tape is the one that gets clipped to disable DRLs... that was done years ago.

I did perform the continuity check as suggested in the write-up to verify the correct wire...

...continuity is checked between pin 16, in the D8 connector, and the number 2 coil connector in the fog lamp relay socket, with the fog switch on.

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New ground above and to the right of the accelerator pedal...

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Done deal...

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Peekaboo!!! What's in the boxes?

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Finally, a set of Cooper Discoverer STT Pros in 285/75r16 is on the way, thanks to the DTD Ebay sale. Yep, that's right... it might be the first time in history that someone on this forum has gone DOWN A TIRE SIZE. :scared:
 
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Finally, a set of Cooper Discoverer STT Pros in 285/75r16 is on the way, thanks to the DTD Ebay sale. Yep, that's right... it might be the first time in history that someone on this forum has gone DOWN A TIRE SIZE. :scared:

I think you made the right choice in sticking with the 285s over something bigger. They seem to be the best balance between driveability and offroad ability. 35s have their place but there's also a lot of people on here that run them unnecessarily.

Im excited to see those new rims! Ive searched high and low and couldn't find pictures of the "secret" wheels from FN, I suppose that's why they're a secret
 
The write-up I linked should work on all years of 3rd gens with OEM fog wiring. Once you start retrofitting things, it's time to break out the EWD.

If you're starting from scratch, I would just run standalone wiring and tie the relay into the marker lights so you have an auto-off function when you shut the headlight switch off.

Thanks for the writeup and the tips, much appreciated. My '97 didn't have any foglights or associated wiring, so I indeed will be starting from scratch. I'll do exactly what you suggested, run new wires and relays and tie them into the stalk foglight switch and the marker light circuit. That'll work very nicely, better than the current setup which has them tied into the low beam circuit.

Thanks again, and sorry for the threadjack. Here are my foglights BTW:

 

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